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Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]

by Intentional3D Jul 16, 2015
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15% infill 0.3mm and print speed of 60mm why is it taking 11 hours?

mine failed in a similar way - but worse. it appears that the screw as it starts to flare out curls a little on the edge and the extruder catches the edge and pushes it over a little bit and it all goes pear shaped from there. Interestingly I have tried twice now once in yellow and it only failed because my roll of filament got stuck with only about 10% to go. All the hard stuff had printed fine.
The one that failed like yours was in white - weather there is any significance or not...

I have also noticed the screw thread is very weak and Im wondering if that is an artifact of the slicer - Ive just recently started using Cura rather Sli3er - Im going to reslice with Sli3er and see if that makes any difference

Anyone else's print multiple layers? If so do I have to change anything?

With one exception, the jack printed perfectly for me...
The screw-head snapped off VERY easily. At 15% infill, the design just doesn't allow enough point-of-contact for the head to stay on the screw. It looks like I'll be printing the screw separately now too and hopefully the threads fit as well as the original one... Thanks for the design!

Great design!!! I love that there are no supports needed. I printed this in 5 hours on a Dremel Digilab 3D-45, at low resolution (0.3mm), 20% fill, PLA with no problems.

i don't know how there are so many successes but i've printed at 15 and 100% infill and both times the knob has broken off and i don't know how to fix it

First attempt was a success with the .65 file. Only issue I've run into, those pins require some hard core bridging, and I don't think there's a printer alive that can pull those off perfectly. Other than that though, it works awesome.

Cool idea, would it work with a DLP printer? thank you

I printed this last night on my still new Dremel 3D45. I used PETG at 240 C. and bed heated to 70 C. It took about 8 hours but came out beautifully. Wiggling the print to get it off the bed was all that was needed to break everything free. Works perfectly. Thank you for this really cool platform jack. BTW I used the .5 mm tolerance file.

Made this in a 16 hour build, using defaults. Gave the knob a little turn with channel locks to get the screw working and snapped the knob right off. Bummer !!! Any post-production notes I should have been aware of ? I noticed a posted separate file for a screw. What would that be all about ? thanks.

same for me. the screw was completely fused to one of the bars, and extremely tight on the threads.

I just started this using the defaults on my Dremel 3D45. I hope it works as it is showing a 16 hour build time without the screw.

Really? 16 hrs? Mine only takes about 4.

Can you tell me what settings you used ? I'm new to all of this so any pointers on how and why you came to those settings is appreciated all the more.

Printed it perfect the first try on the MonoPrice Maker Select Plus, So Cool!! Thanks!!!

Printed the 0.65mm version and the screw fused with the top bar as there was only a single layer gap between the angled portion of the screw and the top bar (which the printer of course filled, seeing as it printed vertically). Not really sure how others didn't run into this issue?

A little persuasion with a Dremel cured that and now it works great! Perhaps offer a print without the screw embedded now there is a separate file for the screw?

Make sure u guys calibrate the steps/mm for ur extruder. U guys have over extrusion.

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

i had the same issue :(

So, I printed this and it didn't turn out great. When it finished, it had supports on it. I was confused because I watched videos and people had no supports. All the the legs that make it move up and down were cemented together. I am using Cura is there a way you can send me a link with out supports or tell me how to take them off.
-Thank you

There is an option on Cura that you can disable suports, try to find it on your settings...

I printed your 0.65mm tolerance version and it has been the talk of the house with my little children, and the talk of my other "children" at the office... even the President of our Aerospace Company was wowed with your model! very cool 3D model sir!

Printed twice. Both times failed. The first time I came back to an almost completed print and some spaghetti. The second time, I cleaned the bed, added a bigger skirt, and kept an eye on it. It failed at 70 percent, and what caused it was the threaded bolt became loose and started wobbling around. The surface area of the bolt on the bed, combined with a very well designed threading system might be the problem. I have an Original Prusa i3 MK2S. The heated bed was at 55 degrees, first layer height was 2mm, and remaining layers were at 3mm. Hatchbox filament. (The non-bolt part of this design was stuck to the bed very well, it was just the bold over 5 hours of printing finally wobbled loose, and as it spun ever so slightly, if finally caught the nozzle and ruined the print.) Maybe I will try printing the non-updated version to see if I have better results.

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please can you send me the designs as i would like to adapt them for my use.

Great print ! I tried to print this on my Monoprice mini a few times without success.(Had to scale down) Got a Monoprice Maker Select Plus and had a perfect print first time. Used .25 resolution, 15 % infill and printed on a raft. (sliced in cura) Happy Maker!

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Thank you for sharing this awesome model with us!

My first try printing this model was horrible wrong, all parts fused together, raft fused also, so I used a dremel to cut away the fused parts on a final effort to make it work... and was a tottally wast of time.

So instead of complaining about the model, I started to calibrate my printer to get better results.

First, I has calibrated retraction settings with this model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2563909, after moving around things like: Retraction distance, Retraction speed, Coasting Distance and Wipe distance, I started to get better results print after print (I printed this model 5 times)

Then, I started to change Horizontal size compensation, and print several of this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946 until I was comfortable.

After all that, I was prepared to try again and has worked perfectly, everything moves as should be, was not necessary any adjustment or cut. My settings in this print was:

Printer: Hypercube
Slicer: Simplify3d
Layer height: .2mm
Infill: 15%
Retraction distance: 4.00mm
Retraction speed: 40.0mm / s
Coasting distance: 0,50mm
Wipe distance: 3,00mm
Horizontal size compensation: -0.14mm

(My printer has a bowden extruder, so retraction values ​​are highter than direct extruded ones)

Sorry for bad English, but my will to share this was greater than my language knowledge kkk

Basic Retraction test
Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit

Which is best way to print, horizontally or vertically?

I have the same question. It opened in Cura standing on end with the screw facing straight up and it doesn't say anywhere if that's the correct orientation. Anyone know?

After reading the comments below, it turns out that it should be printed "vertically" which I am assuming is the screw orientation facing up. Will print and let you know how it all works out.

Ok. Sooooo. Printed it vertical with a 5mm brim. Once the print got a few layers down, I left it alone and went out into the world. When I got home, it looks like it got to about 80%+ before the spaghetti kicked in. I guess I will have to print it again. Still vertical, but maybe a bigger brim.

Prusa i3 MK2S
Hatchbox PLA
First Layer 2mm
Other Layers 3mm
5mm Brim
Mom's Spaghetti!

Great thing... But i would upload a file of the platform without the screw as it is kind of weak when made with 20% infill. Mine broke and now i am printing a new crew in 60% infill. Thanks for the file!!

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Had to work with a knife and a flat screwdriver a bit to break all the parts loose, but it works good!

I tried printing one at 50%, but everything fused together (As i expected), and I am now printing one at full scale. Just in case anyone was going to try scaling it down, don't, unless you have a really small nozzle and accurate printer. I was using a .4 mm nozzle.

UPDATE: the regular full scale one did not work on my monoprice select plus printer, but I then printed the high tolerance one and it worked. It is a really fun and good model

I printed this while I was at work today and it seems that the screw turned a bit when it got towards the top which caused the square inner part of the screw to fuse to the un-threaded screw guide. When I loosened it all up and tried to turn the screw the head broke off because of the defect. No big deal, though. I drilled out the busted screw and I printed off a new screw at 100% infill to make it more durable and it works great. I also had a little drooping on the underside of the cylindrical pieces, but it was minimal and a few quick passes with a lighter fixed it right up. I still think it's pretty cool and worth printing. If anyone has any tips on how to prevent that drooping I would appreciate it. I'm new to the 3D printer game. Thanks.

What a fantastic design, very smart! I use it as a platform to display my nicest prints. For me it is one of the best ambassadors for 3d printing ever.
It printed beautiful on my Anycubic i3M, 0.15 layer, 50% infill, no issues whatsoever. I definitely will print some more of them, scaling it down, on higher resolution. How low can you go...

Thanks, this design and printing it made me happy!

Still amazed by this. Printed on a Snapmaker with no issues whatsoever. I am going to study your model to learn about fits and clearances.

Started yesterday at 4am, at 11.30 am the screw came loose and print went bad, I had to pause the print and took out the screw by just
unscrewing. after resuming the print, it started to finish the rod where the screw goes into, also with minor errors. now continuing the
print and hope that it will finish after all these problems. I will print the screw after the jack is finished. I think that the infill needs to be
beefed up because I read that more screws just break off at the same point or sooner (mine did at the end of the screw)
I set the printer at 15% infill printer is monoprice mini v2 with good filament. I think that if I print this again, the infill will be 30% or more.
It's a very nice object, Is there a possibility to print individual parts for this besides the screws? hope all goes well!

Do you need to print the bolt or no because it has the bolt in it already?

Its already in but if you break yours you can print another

Indeed I broke my knurled knob off, first try. Broke nice and clean at the collar. the thing is though, how do you get the broken screw out now ?

Nice design, good test for a printer.

It is very important to have good first layer height and good retraction settings. Other than this, do not force the screw after it's done. Wiggle the whole part, try to release the side pins and gently work on opening it the first time.

Great idea including a separate screw design.

The screw broke off for me and I can't fix it!!! I need help. :(

Take a number and wait in line............................. with all the others :>(

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Was an enjoyable print. printed in PLA, had the head on the bolt break off right away, but with a little Jerry-rigging, I had it work for a little while, until I put a gallon jug of water on it, then my rigging caused the bolt to disassemble. Now I'm printing the replacement bolt add-on. Thanks, original creator for adding replacement parts. Going to use this in conjunction with my phone stand for the $3.47 3D scanner.

first i will say this is a cool a$$ print, once you are able to print it.. the only issue was the bolt head, snapped mine off on both prints. i just fused the bolt head back on with a solder iron.
printed out 2 of them 1black and 1 orange both out of inland 1.75 filament
one on a maker select 3 at .3 layer height
other, cr-10s at .3 layer height

Printed a scaled down version of this on my mini delta and ended up twisting the end of the screw off trying to get it to loosen up. :/

It’s not junk. I’ve printed it, others have printed it, and they have printed it. Don’t call a functional design junk just because your printer can’t handle it. This print is on the difficult side. If it doesn’t work for you, that’s not their fault. I printed it and it worked fine. If you’re skeptical print the 0.65mm tolerance version.

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unfortunately, this doesn't work with PLA, so I will retry this with ABS when I gain the capability to do so.

i tried it in pla and it worked fine

I printed it first try with pla.

piece of crap print, it just breaks when you try to get it undone. don't print it you'll just waste filament

Same happened here 3 times and it prints with supports. I am using Creality Ender 3

You mean 17 grams, not like 1kg so no it's not a waste of filament. Oh, btw that means your printer is a piece of crap. not the design!


In a community where we spend countless hours contributing and experimenting, you, sir, are unfit.

Worked perfect for me. Be more gentle next time.

This is really the worst thing to print ons PLA. Is ABS stronger. I printer this platform 3 times already on 0.2mm with an 0.4 Extruder on medium speed with 90% fill. All 3 times the screw broke. I am starting to think it is not me but this model. Printing on XYZ Da Vinci Junior.

low quality printer

It says to use 15 % infill. Less tolerence for the screw if the infill is higher.

Maybe it's more resilient with ABS than PLA? Took 8 hours to print, attempted to turn the knob and it snapped. Completely non-functional.

4 attempts with three different printers... and no way to obtain a functional one. I hate this thing.

Guys I'm having some serious problems setting up my printer. The demo cat printed in ABS with no problem. Can someone share their gcode file for the jack in ABS on a Monoprice Slect Mini 3D Printer V2?


I have a Monoprice Mine Select as well. It’s a great little printer and I get really good print from it. This may seem obvious but make sure that print bed is level. My Monoprice Mini is very picky about having a level print bed. I take the time once a month or so to relevel, side to side, front to back, and diagonal across the bed. When I get lazy about this my prints are garbage. Hope that tip helps.

I will send you via private message k?

I am also using an MP Select Mini 3D Printer v2...would you be willing to share what worked for you with me as well? I have printed this thing twice without success (the parts get fused together). I have been using PLA, but hopefully you can point me in the right direction regardless. Thanks!

Failed here as well. Screw broke plus the parts became really bad that are supposed to be printed 6 centimeters over air.

Prints Great= 6h10m, Dremel Idea Builder. 0.2mm Use 3 layer permenter and 70% infill this will resolve any issues with the knob breaking off.

I'm going to try the 70% infill next to see if that helps me.

This is the "Thing" that convinced me to jump into the world of 3D Printers, I now own two printers, after about 6 month of work, I now have enough expertise to try this print, it is now printing on one of my machines. - Thanks for the nudge !

Good, I did it, it came out quite well, it did not break, but I make an appointment because there is an internal part that is going to stay in the air and does not make it neat (plastic remains in the air and curved), does anyone know how to improve that?

lemme guess it takes like 8 hours to print?

Monoprice Select Mini V2. Took me 8.5 hours with designers settings. 8.8 hours with 70% infill.

i'm printing at .2 mm layer height and 40 mm/s on my cr-10 and it takes 12-13 hrs to print. it turned out very nice indeed.

oh dang it only takes 4 hours

i am printing this on my prusa i3 at 20% infill and 50mm/s at .2 mm layer height not done yet but when it is finished i will do an update
it finished and tried to break it free and two arms snapped

Printed perfectly on an $150 Anet A8 with .2 layer height and 20% infill. Took a few seconds to free up all the joints, however the
quality of the print has me amazed by this cheap chinese printer.

Anets really are amazing. Theyre the type of printer you can put your heart into. I myself have replaced the frame with metal, and changed the extruder to bowden. It’s technically no longer even an anet, but Anet is just a building block for something greater.... keep on making!

Never printing this again, 2 times the screw broke off. A lot of printing time and a lot of plastic wasted.

This is great to show off what 3D printing can do. My parents thought it was a waste of money when I bought my 3D printer. When I went to visit them I brought this. Now they think it was a cool waste of money to buy a 3D printer.

Could you give us the wall settings as well?

Using the updated model produced awful results. I printed with a .3 layer height and 15% infill on a raft. The part was horribly weak and fused together. Also, the screw broke 75% through printing. And the part broke when I removed it from the bed.

try to lower the layer height and change the wall settings.

I will say, I started this print yesterday and then started reading the comments/horror stories about the knob breaking and it being a waste of time and material to print this. Needless to say I was worried all night! While I'm sorry to hear the problems others have had I am happy to say that mine came out great! I did spend a few minutes wiggling it before turning the knob for the first time.

All printing info in the make here. Thank you for this thing! https://www.thingiverse.com/make:357362

Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]

This would work great if the piece that connects the scissors to the main axles wouldn't break every time I try and make this. I have tried printing the .65 tolerance 2 times and the same problem each time. If you can give me any suggestions that would be great.

if the screw head breaks once twisted (happened 2 times already.. not liking the idea of printing this a third time... already have 12 hours down...how do I replace the screw without printing the entire thing again? and also the thing is closed because of course I wasn't able to open it...thanks in advance.

As lone as the screw body is able to turn before the screw head is broken, you can use a big heated screw driver, use its top to melt into the end of the screw with a depth of 10mm and when its cooled down, use the screw driver to turn the screw. If this works, at least, you have a workable platform.
If the screw body is not able to turn, using the aforesaid method may break the screw body. Anyway, if you have already been prepared to give it up, have a last try.
Moreover, you need to loose (not to break, LOL)all the joints and all the places that is intend to be moveable before turning the screw or the screw head, this will help.

I don't know anything about 3d printing... starting the learning process now. Can you size this down easily to make miniature, with a total expanded height of 2 inches. And if the screw keeps breaking, can you print it with standard threads and then use a nylon screw? I need to insert something like this into the body of a violin and then push it up to support a crack in the body. I am a sculptor.

I believe that would work, if it is standard sized threads that is.

So the updated prints without support? It seems like one it gets to the top beams it would need support...

it broke when i first twisted it

With the first one I printed, I had the same screw break problem many others reported. Rather than print just the replacement screw, I tried reprinting at 100% infill. That did the trick!

I also printed an extra screw for the jack with the broken screw (also at 100% infill). It was a little tricky to connect the two parts, but I think it will hold. If not, I'll probably put it back together with some CA glue.

the 0.65 tolerance model worked well with my home made Chinese prusa i3. Printed in 4 hours 50mm/s 0.3 layer height, 15% infill. The screw needed lots of tender love to get it to crack but it eventually broke free and worked. It is weak and the 0.3 layer height makes it a poor thread. I have printed another screw at better resolution and higher infill just to have a better overall part, it didn't break! If my shoddy prusa can do it anyone can!

I had issues with the screw as well, can you possibly post a link to the screw you printed? Everything else works great, just the head of the thumb screw broke off.

its the screw in the thing files 'screw.stl'

Sorry, i don't think it works. Joins are too weak in design. Knob is too weak to overcome first and very key break away.

Im printing one right now and my bolt is getting nubs off the bolt part im using a da vinci jr pro 1.0 it doing a good job but not for the bolt. this is my second day printing any help would be appreciated.

Printed on Makerbot Replicator Firmware 22.1 with .3mm and 15% infill. Platform jack seemed to print successfully(~7hrs), but the screw wouldn't turn. I turned it clockwise as directed and it snapped off. Looking at the post, it is fused together. Any ideas? Thanks

thats really amazing work and im really surprise with the resolutions its awesome , nice work , how long does it take to print this and did you print it on20mm/s or lower speed settings ? appreciate your answer and thanks in advance

Very cool... one of the nicest print all at once items I have done... and it came out great... even with my cheap china printer..

can this print be successfully scaled down to .5?

Yes, it worked with abs on my mp select mini. Swing up the platform and run through every crevice with a blade. Don't forget the screw. It can also print hollow without supports.

Would you be willing to share the settings that made your print successful? I have an MP Select Mini v2, but I've had two unsuccessful prints of this thing.

printing on a monoprice maker select v2, print speed at 50mm/s and all normal settings - says it takes about 9 hours. Why is that if you guys printed in 4? the layer height is .3mm with only 15% infill. any help appreciated guys, cant figure out why its printing so slow. i have a buddy who has the exact same printer and his prints 2x as fast as mine at the same settings in cura. How?

@HunterButera. Would you mind sharing your friends gcode that printed 2x as fast? I'm having the same issue. Thanks.

Or a screenshot of his settings could be helpful. Thanks.

I am having the same is. MP Maker Select v2, with 50mm/s, .3mm layer height and 15% infill. I haven't printed it yet, but it's estimating over 8 hours. Were you able to figure out what setting(s) were causing the different print times? Thanks. Would you mind sharing your friend's gcode?

Have your friend send you a copy of their gcode, and "load profile from gcode" in cura. You must have some setting somewhere that is different!

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Wonderful !! Can it also be printed on ABS ?

so I tried printing this on my lulzbot mini using cura for the most part it did ok except for the bottom...the hole for the bolt as well as some joints that are on the bottom printed stuck together...not sure what to change to fix that

Worked first time on my Eaglemoss part work Vector 3 3D printer. :-)

Seriously awesome print! My cheap A8 printer was able to do the 0.65tolerance print perfectly the first try.

Thank you for that comment. I also have an A8 printer from gearbest and i choosed to print the 0.65 version of the file due to your comment. Printed perfectly and working very well. This is an amazing design.

I also have a anet a8 from gearbest it came out great. PS: my anet a8 has no upgrades.

Has anyone tried this in petg?

I'm only new to the 3d printing game. And like you probably bit off more than i could chew. It looked great, however there was a lot of fusing.I haven't had a chance to try the 0.65 tolerance yet, Maybe that is something you should try. Alternatively, there are lots more Lego bricks to re-engineer.

I spent 8 hours of my day printing this and spent a lot on filament. I was really disappointed when I tried to make it work and the screw came off. Do not waste your time and money on this.

Works for most people. You have to print at a slow speed and take several minutes lightly prying the two halves to get it to pop open. I've printed 3 of them that all worked. I don't use their cheap settings though. I do 100% fill and .1 layer height. Yest it takes twelve hours to print on my MP Select. I brought it into Cura, doubled it in size and printed one more that opened quite easily. (It took 32 hours to print.) The whole purpose is to waste your time having fun watching it make the internal parts. Showing off the bigger one to friends blows their mind when they find out it printed as one part. You do have to work at it carefully for a while to get them to open right but they usually will. Just don't print at 15% like the description says unless you are using better filaments.

Question has anyone successfully printed this scaled up to 2.0 in their slicer and if so how. It seems enlarged it always finds a way to come off the bed or and or crash cura on me after about 80%. By the way I have a Lulzbot Taz 6. That leads to another question is it a bad idea to print something with moving parts on a 3D printer that uses 3mm filament.

I printed at almost 2X scaling (1.94 to be exact) on my Monoprice Select V2 using PLA. You need to slow the printer way down and set to 100% infill and .1 layer height. Then it takes about 32-46 hours to print depending on where you beef up or down some settings. Oh and be forewarned it will eat about 250m of filament! You should print it on a raft. If you are getting your prints coming loose from a raft you have either the bed not calibrated or the heat and fan cooling needs to be tinkered with. If it's your raft that keeps coming undone and you are sure you've leveled everything, you'll need to use some glue stick or hairspray on the bed. I have build-tac and with a little elmers glue stick it never fails to stick. (Getting it off the bed is more the issue.) Most of the people who are breaking theirs are either printing at the suggested 15% infill (terrible advise to recommend that) or are just too impatient. Also the speed is crucial. You will need to print very slowly to be sure the parts don't fuse. If they do, the infill is what allows them to survive prying them apart. I never print with less than 40% infill. Any less just invites parts to break. Of course it takes so darn long to print that I've only printed one big one. I just can't spare 2 fulls days and nights for a single print very often. While my printer can print 2 times faster, it tends to screw up tight tolerance things like this when it goes too fast. Also don't plan on it providing any serious lifting power. This is just a demo/toy that will break if much force is applied to it.

barnacules nerdgasm on youtube

If you can always upload the gcode to/and print from an sd card. Then the printer isn't dependent on the computer hosting it. I'm printing one right now scaled 2.0. We'll see how it comes out.

Haven't tried scaling this up, so no help there. But I can print these just fine on my Taz6, so no worries about the filament dia!

Any tips for getting the drive screw separated from the uper bar whenever I try to print they come out firmly attached together.

Perfectly printed with probably the cheapest printer on todays market, the Anet A8.
I used the 0.65 mm tolerance version, 0.20 mm layer height and 30% infill. About 8 hours job.
Looks great! Thanks for this nice thing!


Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]

Printed on my Monoprice Select Mini sliced in Cura 2.3 with 0.2625 Layer Height and it turned out nice. The scissors and outside walls was fused together, and I broke and tore them up pretty good trying to get them separated, but the screw turned flawlessly. I'm guessing maybe my retractions settings maybe made too much blobbing on those close parts. Currently my settings are:

Retraction Distance 3.5mm
Retraction Speed 60mm/s
Retraction Minimum Travel: 0.8 mm

I'm wondering if I need to lower the retraction minimum travel to make sure to get retraction occurring between the outer walls and scissor arms.

Printed on my Monoprice Select Mini sliced in Cura 2.3 with 0.2625 Layer Height and it turned out nice. The scissors and outside walls was fused together, and I broke and tore them up pretty good trying to get them separated, but the screw turned flawlessly. I'm guessing maybe my retractions settings maybe made too much blobbing on those close parts. Currently my settings are:

Retraction Distance 3.5mm
Retraction Speed 60mm/s
Retraction Minimum Travel: 0.8 mm

I'm wondering if I need to lower the retraction minimum travel to make sure to get retraction occurring between the outer walls and scissor arms.

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Printed the updated stl almost perfectly in ABS at 0.1mm at 30% infill with a raft in approximately 20 hours... That last set of bridges were challenging and look kinda garbage. Also there were some material issues as it is old and has absorbed some water, so the vertical surfaces aren't really perfectly smooth. I used Craftware 1.14 beta as the slicer which worked wonderfully (aside from a several bugs in the UI) on my RepRapPro Mendel 3.

I wasn't expecting much, but I gave the 0.65mm tolerance a shot with a 1mm nozzle (0.7mm layer height) in abs. The printed turned out very good, but it wasn't functional; there was way too much fusing. I've posted some pictures in the Made section.

Printed almost perfectly the first time. No problem getting it free, no real fusing of parts at all. The only wart is caused by that extremely long "bridge" that has to occur on that horizontal axle near the top of the print. Every picture I've seen shows a lot of sag there. Obviously, standard supports can't be put there, but perhaps that axle could be redesigned to be more like an arch.

I don't use Solidworks - could you post a STEP file?

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Worked on the first try with the Updated model (newer 0.5 tolerance, not the 0.65) sliced in Simplify3d with 0.3mm layers, 16% infill, 3 shells, PLA @ 200, Glass Heated Bed @ 60 with PVA on a stock Robo3d R1+, 4h 49m. Required a little attention with an xacto knife to separate some parts, about 10 minutes total - worked one corner at a time, slightly pulling the platforms apart to check for areas that were sticking before ever turning the screw.

Sucessfully printed the 0.65 tolerance version at 0.3mm, 15% infill 3 shells on a MakerBot Mini with a SmartExtruder+ I broke the screw after printing and had to print another but that worked perfectly too. 8 hours of printing (9 with the new screw) Works perfectly. I printed with supports, by mistake, but it was easy to remove the material from inside the jack.

Anyone have problems getting the top of the screw to print? Mine fits perfectly until it gets to the the top of the screw, then it just seems to fall off and turn into a pile of string.

Try setting your slicer to make sure that the print time per layer is longer. I have mine set up for 15 seconds so the layer has a bit more time to cool.

Yes that is definately it. When your printer gets to the screw, it either prints too fast or doesn't have enough cooling. Notice the surface printed when you reach the screw is much smaller per layer. This causes your printer to print on plastic that has not cooled down yet and is still melted.

Printed Flawlessly, Thanks, and Great Design!!

Over 30 friggin hours after 3 prints on 3 different i3 dialed in printers this model needs friggin tuning and wider gaps, period. I should have read more of the ~200 comments it looks like this model, not 3dbenchy, should be the defacto standard of a "torture" test of a 3d printer, because if you can print one of these without the tips of the arms at the hinges snapping off....well, gold plate your printer and don't breath on it cause it's one in a million, LOL.

Are there possibly any plans to adjust this model with say, a 15-20% increase in hinge gaps, and maybe at the same time a small percentage of reinforcement on the ends of the hinges and other small areas involved in the motion?

All punchiness aside, if I didn't absolutely think this thing was amazing, I certainly wouldn't have already spent the ~30 hrs and $ to keep trying - it really is a thing of beauty to hold in your hand when finished and explain to a little boy how all moving parts it printed tiny slice layer by layer. My little one is going to be crushed this 3rd one just snapped too. I haven't yet had the heart to tell him. I just don't think I can tie up the printer and spend the $ on the filament and electricity and wear on the machine pushing 40+ hrs for this unless it gets some adjustment to increase my odds of success.

EDIT: Should have stated - this was 3 attempts on 2 different i3's at slow 35mm speed (and slower for edges), .3, 3 shells (1.2mm) 1.2mm top/bottom with 2 different brands of PLA (3 different colors) - so I think I mixed it up enough other than the resolution and at 10hrs at .3, I really did not want to have to do a full 24hr print for this (although now with 3 failures I guess maybe if I would have been guaranteed 1 success)....but no way 3x24hrs each which is what I have a feeling it would be to still have failures I just can't justify. I thought I read a while ago on the thing description that it had been successfully printed at .3? Is that the issue? Because I'm getting great layer adhesion like I said having used 3 diff colors, two Hatchbox and one eSun it aint the filament and the temps and model otherwise look perfect - no layer separation etc. that indicates a bad print - it just really does not have the strength built in to be printed vertically like it is making the layers vertical and the z-axis layer weakness I'm really surprised i guess that this many people ARE actually able to snap this thing open without it cracking. I can post pics later as well showing how great my prints look despite the failures so I could really use some advise. I see the author saying yes, print it vertically, but are all the successful prints really being printed in the default vertical orientation, or did they perhaps lay it flat to strengthen and flip the layers?

What infill are you printing at? 15% was the lowest we ever (successfully) tested, and some printers needed 30 or even 40%. If you're trying to print at 0.3mm, I would definitely lean towards a higher infill to make up for the weaker inter-layer bonding.

And yes, it should definitely be printed vertically! ;)

My infill was 25%. Like I said, other than the same exact spots cracking off from 2 different i3 printers and 3 different filaments, it just seems like those areas are a problem.. The good news is, I was at least able on the last one to glue on the ends for cosmetic only and at least show my little guy.

It's the end of the hinge arms,, the u shape breaks off at the dowel - same on all of them. I'll upload pics later they look absolutely beautiful otherwise. If I had layer separation or other under extrusion etc. I'd lean more towards that....but that's why I spun up on the other i3 printing 20c higher on totally different filament, just to rule out whether it was machine/user error. :)

I wonder how many others are just so elated to get the thing to crank open that they are just maybe silently living with those ends breaking off and just not reporting it here so you are aware. My last one seems to function pretty good minus the broken ends because I'm not really putting any weight on it so also perhaps some folks have them break off at time of initial opening too and just aren't even aware of it.

Hmm, thanks for the detailed symptom report! We've never had that part break on us, but we'll look into it. In the meantime, I'd suggest checking out the remixes to this part. Some people have pulled it apart (So it doesn't print fully assembled), which makes it slightly easier to print. Not sure if it will help with your issue, but fingers crossed!

Do you print this standing up or laying flat?

Print it upright. It should be printed in the default orientation.

nice design, printed without supports, works well.
I would love the SolidWorks file if you have it.
It could really use a thicker top and bottom plate because they bend too easily around the slotted side.

I tried to print this on an M3D micro, with "Deep Lemon 3D Ink" (it was definitely PLA) and everything fused together creating an unusable rectangle, any help to get it to print correctly?

Just remembered, I shrank it to 1/4 of the original size, could this be my problem?

yes. you cant shrink it. the clearance between parts will only work at the scale it is designed for.

But it should work other wise on the M3D right? This looks pretty cool, and I'm just getting into printing.

I don't think it would do well on the M3D micro. If you have the M3D pro It should work well.

Thanks, I had used the improved version on both my original prints too.

Same Printer, Nozzle, PLA and Cooling.
Differences 0.1mm layers and Slic3r for the software.
I recently purchased Simplify3D and thought I would try again.
Not sure I would go to 0.3mm might try 0.2mm.

Thanks for the information.

Oh and I used the "improved" file listed.

Make sure your orientation is such that the knob is facing up. I'd try .3 layer. I ran my PLA at 203F. and 17% infill.

I had to use a plier to break the knob loose, (clockwise). Good luck!

Could you also upload a picture of this great first time print?

I've just done it. It's really amazing that it prints assembled with no supports.

What were your setting and resolution?
Printed pretty quick.
Mine took over 12 hours to print.

I have a Flashforge Creator Pro. Printed on the Right side 0.4 mm nozzle using 1.75 PLA.
0.3mm layers with fan cooling on nozzle (important). Sliced using Simplify3D software.
It took about 5 hours to print.

Can't believe it is the filament, I have had great success with printing other things.
I am going to try again soon, going to slice with Simplify3d rather than Slic3r.
Good luck rtsandiego, let me know how it goes and your settings if you have success.

It came out amazing. First try too!

I think the design is nice but I wouldn't waste your time trying to print. I tried twice with a lot of issues. I have printed dozens of things without issue but this thing has multiple. Bridges require an almost perfect printer to complete, even with a well tuned printer I think it would fail. The bolt will print completely bonded to one of the main crossbars. 20% infill with .20 layers, & printed extremely slow , it still has more issues that it is worth. Some pieces printed with great quality, others were below poor quality and unacceptable. The design would be better printed separately and allowing us to assemble. There is another design that prints separately but requires metal hardware. A good design won't require extra purchases/hardware but at least that design is usable. Sorry for the poor review but this was a waste of 50 meters of material (2 separate prints).

Stop whining and either fine tune your printer or trash it and get a better one. There is nothing wrong with the design. Period.

Mt anet a8 worked well.

It printed fine in PLA. This thing is amazing!

Really? There's so many postings of successful prints. I'm going to try.

if you can't bridge, it's your filament. i can bridge across on problem first shot with cheap $10 Chinese quality PLA. no sag, perfect bridge. if the screw won't fit, you're not calibrated properly either. filament width calibration is fundamental.

that being said, it isn't without issue, keeping the inside sizzor bars in place while they build UP would help, they can just break being moved around by the extruder once they get higher.

while a great print requires no extra parts, a great useful Print should if it could benefit. if you want to stick it on display, print it in 100% plastic... if you want to use it for a Toy, it's going to break in 10 minutes of use. same goes for those shitty chip bag clips, put a damn spring on them and get over it.... they work 1000x better with a 0.05c metal spring in the design. i have 5 that don't close enough anymore in abs, pla, petg... add a spring and they'll work until you die.

Prints fine in ABS on a stock Wanhao i3.

I think there is a segment missing from the Solidworks file. Some parts fused together so I want to modify the tolerances. Could you please upload the fixed file?

Any chance I could ramp this up to 300% size? Would the Tolerance allow for this?

Yes, scaling works fine.

scaling up works scaling down dosnt

hi my ive printed it 3 times one this one worked somewhat well the bol did not buge so i need help with making it work

I used the higher tolerance model and it printed largely OK, but the fused shaft would not separate from the crossmember. Eventually twisted the knob off from the shaft. Why not perforate or otherwise weaken that connection?

THANK YOU so much for a fun to do print!!!! we are having so much fun with our 3d printer, We love it!! designing something like this takes alot of time, Thank You sooooo much for sharing a great project to make !!

Worked on my second attempt with PLA. Took awhile to gingerly open up and separate all the pieces. Cool model!

Can you scale it down and still make it work?

Can you scale it down and still make it work?

I think the file was corrupt mine got slanted half way through the print

Is a 0.8mm nozzle to coarse for this print?

just canceled my 2nd unsuccessful print .
both times when the bolt's tether is finished and and it starts to print the smooth part something happens and it shifts right.
when i inspected it , it was very loose.
any advice?

printed on Creator Pro . Pla . 210 /60 deg , 0.3 lh .

You should print with a 0.2mm layer height. If you are using a flashforge make sure you have some kind of active cooling. A fan pointed at your printer works fine.

Printed on UP! Mini with standard settings, however with fan towards nozzle, in order to allow the wide overhangs.
Due to thermal stress, there are cracks in the plates and two joints fused (left + right of knob).
Still I could sparate all parts easily and move the plate up.
5.5 hrs, 73 grams of ABS

1st print failed. Used 290 microns on a Zortrax M200. The screw design needs to be reviewed. Will try with a finer resolution and maybe print a smaller one to test. 81 grams of ABS wasted. But oh well. Great design

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Mine printed beautifully, but when I tried to get it open a couple of the folding pieces broke. The screw was also fused. I printed at 0.2mm thickness and 15% infill, the extruder was around 230 C. For those that it went successfully, what were your settings?

the end of the joint/holes broke for me, it's a bit thin there for FDM... it's a hit or miss i guess. which sucks on a 5+hour print.

Nice design, worked perfectly. I have made two so far!

A big part of me just died. I printed at 0.25 mm layer thickness and 15 % infill, and after about 5 hours on my Replicator 2, I had my heart broken (just like the piece). The screw appears to be totally fused. The next bad move was to use brute force (sometimes you can't figure how much force you need to get a printed part moving).

Once I've nursed my heart, I'll be back again to print this!

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Dude, watch your mouth on this site.

Oh come on - say printer, head, filament. My first attempt utterly failed. Second with simplify3d was perfect.

Didn't work for me at all.

Makerfarm 8" i3v
0.40 e3d v6

The whole thing was too tight and would not budge no matter what. Hot water... Oven... knife... Couldn't get it to free. And yes, the printer is very well calibrated.

This was with Slic£r at 0.20 - I will try again with Simplify3D which i have just bought and seems to behave much better.

Reprinted with Simplify 3D and was perfect! It just opened after removing from bed. Very pleased.

I want to print a really tiny one, and a really large one!
Thanks, this is awesome!!! :)

Is it better to print upright, or on it's side? It loads initially vertical with the screw on top.

Thank you for this design. Here a little time laps, have fun.


so cool! have to make one for my rc car. Do you know how meany inches wide it is?

I print this but I cant use it
all part was together how shoda i do ?

I printed this on my Replicator 2. This has been the most impressive piece that I have ever printed. Came fully functional straight off of the print bed. Peoples mouths always drop open when I tell them that there was no assembly required at all for this print. This is by far my favorite print of the year. Major props to @Intentional3D for this one.

Perfect print on my Rostock Max.
Super neat design !

Sorry to thread jack, how do you like your Rostock Max? I have the Orion Delta. I have thought about upgrading to the big boy at some point.

Actually, I am very happy with it, though I cannot compare it to others.
But when I read how much trouble people seem to have with calibration and bed adhesion, I can praise myself lucky.
It was calibrated ONCE after I finished building it, and since then it has worked flawlessly.
In throw the thing in and out of my car every few weeks, switch it on, and it does what it's supposed to do.
I would definitely buy it again.

BUT, there is a but.
At the time I bought it (and I sincerely hope that SeemeCNC changed that), it was equipped with an extremely (!) low quality power supply that died on me a few weeks ago.
When the heated bed was switched on, the whole machine switched off or did a reset.
The manufacturer acknowledged this problem and immediately offered to replace it.
But since I live in Belgium, customs costs were just too high to swap out a shitty psu with one of the same abysmal quality.
So I refused to accept it.
They refused to pay through Paypal, even partly, for a good quality psu that I could deliver myself, since I am a computer retailer and technician, and have these in stock at wholesale price ...
So for the time being, I replaced it at my own expense, and the matter is pending.

The CNC guys are quality retailers. I'm sure that this has caught their attention, if not already taken care of. If not, I will surely ask them before ordering the Rostock.

Thanks for the reply!

It printed very well for me. Had one stuck part that took me a couple of minutes to figure out but once it was freed the jack opened right up. Too cool.

My make http://www.thingiverse.com/make:177764

-Very difficult to separate the parts for the first time. You will need: lubricant and knife.
-Poor gravity center, I think that you can improve this with other models. For example, I think that it is more stronger and balanced http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:711725

-To easy to do.
-Very good thinking by designer.

Platform Jack [Fully Assembled, No Supports]
by Mafo

I always have an issue with one corner lifting off the bed. Anyone have any tips?

I've tried both raft and a brim attached to the print, but I also have one corner lifting off the bed. Not even using ABS but PLA. I suppose I need to get better bed adhesion...

Check what your setting is for air gap between the print and the raft. Also, if you have a heated bed, I have found that the hair spray technique works wonders for PLA. Best of luck!

Are you printing in ABS or PLA?

This was awesome to make. I put 60% fill in mine. Took like 11-12 hours to do, but it is really durable as far plastic go.

Going to try this on a markforged one!

Just printed it, and as far as i can see the parts are not fused together.

Except the screw :(

Does anyone have tips to loosen it?

Would be a shame such a long print to go to waste :(

A shame that there is not STL model without the screw, so we can print thr screw on it's own.

p.s. This a huge demo to what a 3d printer is capable of :)

Any idea why my printer doesn't allow me to print without supports? I'm trying it now using "SMART" supports as supposedly they don't touch, but am nervous about what's going on inside the assembly.

Please make a version without the screw in it the head of it snapped. I would be fine with printing it separately.

Just finished the "updated" 7-22-15 STL print. I used .25mm layer height, 2 walls, and 80% hexagon fill. Took 6.5 hours. Was very gentle loosening it up a bit by hand before turning the screw. Make sure your retraction is under control and that your printer is well-calibrated.

Pretty amazing print, but if your printer isn't tuned up, it's gonna be a heartbreaker. ;)

The head off the screw broke off what do i do?

i have been printing smaller versions , no success at .7 or less - also, someone mentioned printing on the flat.. no worky .. the bolt cant bridge that distance (unless u print seperately, then u would want a model with out the bolt but that is not here), if u build bridge support, thats no good , then u have more fusion inside ...

it does print faster on th eflat though ...

took 5.5 hrs with .275lh and 60 pspeed . i was able to break awy fusing using the'updated' version but broke the knob, not sure if i went ccw instead of cw.. -- i guessi need the .65 version , would like to scale down to see a success in shorter order ..

My printer is really slow. Estimated time: 73 hours

I got a fast and amazing printer for $250, its called the XYZ Da Vinci Jr

i have the same printer

I have that printer too and it's really remarkable especially for the price!

That is truly ridiculous. Would suck if it failed at hour 72

damn dude what printer do u have?

The M3D its all I could afford and at $350 I'd rather have a slow printer than no printer.

That's a good point. Does it print well at least? I only have a school one I gave access to, so just curious

Yeah it prints quite good quality as far as I'm concerned and although its slow it is very reliable. I can run any print small enough to fit in its 11*11mm space and know it will work.

printe at 0.2mm and 10% fill,the printed modle is very good and can work easily.
printed by MakerPi 3d printer

Is it best to print it standing up in length or to lay the large surface flat. I tried printing in length and it went stringy about half way through. printed at 0.3 and 15% fill no supports. Any advice would be appreciated.

I've printed this using the updated file in the zip with the makerbot mini using PLA plastic. The only problem I had was when I went to spin the screw the plastic knob broke off. I replaced the 15% fill screw and knob with a 100% fill knob and screw. It works perfect now. I also did notice while printing the 100% fill knob near the end of the print the makerbot mini would wobble slightly making the threads on the inside of the screw where the knob and the screw meat be un alighted so I had to sand the threads on the knob down to fit it into the receiving hole. I hope this was helpful.

Excellent work! Had to make another screw assembly as the original broke off, but nevertheless
an amazing design which I put to proper use in my hobby workshop.

I have the same machine, and the same settings but my print took near 8 hours, or double the print time. And EVERYTHING was fused together. I broke it apart finally and I still couldn't get all the parts moving freely. Any pointers? Any default setting changes?

Amazing job and design. Congratulations!!!

This is my next print. I honestly cannot wait for the current filament spool to finish so I can get this started!.

I have only had my printer for a little over a week now and I have learned a lot so far. I have a heated bed and I am running it hot. I keep the temp at 110c (initially set up for ABS out of the box, however I typically print with PLA). I have not come across any issues with having my bed that hot for PLA, but can there be issues? I have Kapton tape, but honestly like using the green frog tape. I have had some great prints come off the printer so far, but I have not attempted anything this complex yet. I recently tried a gear bearing, which came out looking awesome, but all the small gears were fused to the outset gear/ring. I also print at a 210c at the nozzle, which my understanding is that this is high for PLA as well (more in the range for ABS).

My question is, will I have issues trying to print this with my temps set that high while using PLA? Also, I want to get some clear filament, any recommendations on brand?

I printed a couple of times with a wood fiber PLA and those items look nice.

for pla you want the bed temp around 50-60 NOT 110.
210 is fine for pla.
reprapper tech is the best filament I've used and I've used a LOT of different makes.

Printed in abs on Makerbot Replicator 2X. Work great. I am using in my Engineering class for mechanical advantage problems. Could you tell me what software you design the product? We use Autodesk Inventor.
Well Done.

We used Solidworks.

How big was it completely?

tried printing the revised version on a printrbot simple metal. .3mm layer height, 15% infill. printed in just under 3 hours. separated all the parts i could before opening. the screw turned with a little effort but the scissor legs still stuck together and eventually broke before coming loose. :(

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I made one, see "made"
PLA 15% with raft
As i was afraid to break knob, I made an aperture on the bottom face to be able to rotate axis using pliers. After that it's moving well. :-)
Knob is ok.
See my picture for the aperture.

manually added supports to the center beams as my 1st print could not make the distance without too much sag. I was able to slid a thin tool in and break away supports. works great !

flashforge Creator X, simplify 3d, petg filament, heat 225\80
15% fill, 3 shells,

I need one at 60% printable in ABS, so the tolerance should be more.. any thoughts?

Just made it on an Ultimaker2. Superb! Use a small screwdriver to GENTLY separate the parts so they move, one or two of them may be joined to start with. Do NOT force the thread, make sure everything is free and separate first before turning, PATIENCE. A small amount of lubricant on the thread helps once things get moving.
An impressive design, one of the finest demonstrations of 3D printing I have seen.

What settings did you use? I also have an Ultimaker 2, but my 2 attempts at 0.3 layer height have come out really fused. Any pointers would be appreciated. :)

I used 0.16 layer height, I think 0.3 is much too wide for the UM2, would give really rough prints.
Ht 0.16mm, base and walls 0.8mm, fill 20%. Black PLA on standard settings, 210C and 60C bed.

One of the scissor arms had some fusion points, hence the gentle prising apart. Work the screw a bit, find which bit is sticking and try to crack the fused bits with a tiny screwdriver. The screw thread was perfect, as were all the pivot joints. I see to remember it was the left hand side, ( looking from the screw head ) that was stuck. If you gently pull the jack apart by its top and bottom you will see which part is sticking.

I think you are right about the 0.3. And being able to open up the plates really helps too.

Thanks very much! :)

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I think it would be very helpful for all of us who have printed this, and had the knob twist off, if you could make a hexagonal bore,
clear through the threaded part, so we could put an allen wrench in there, to break this part loose. I made a second one, thinking
that if I corrected the drawing to print a higher density, it would hold up to breaking loose, but it also twisted off.
If I knew how to work with .STL drawings, I would show you what I mean.
This is one of the best things I have seen on here, all the same! Thanks.

What an AMAZING design! Well done!

Made one! Robo 3D R1...FLAWLESS..oh, in the lowest quality and took 4 hours and 45 min? about? roughly? yeah, somewhere there..congrats on the design...I hope you expand on the technique and apply many, many times over...From Miami, DALE!!!

Well Done! Only had to print it once! When I have time I'm going to print it as large as possible in my Z18!

Amazing design! Congratulations!!

Fantastic! Great job!! Thanks for sharing.

Screw basically completely welded itself to the top crossbeam. Really cool design and all but had to break the thing open to get to the fused area. Thanks for uploading the screw by itself though so at least a bit of superglue and I'll have a working model. Printed the 0,65 mm tolerance model with PLA on Printrbot simple metal at 200 micron and 15% infill, took about 7.5 hours.

Hi ! Do you mind sharing your gcode file?

I tried printing a couple times and haven't had problems with the screw, but some of the legs got fused in a way I couldn't repair.

would you mind sharing your "print speed". I have a PB simple metal as well. Hear shortly i'm doing a reprint because i have some slight shifting on the "x-axis". I am using the same settings as instructed but i think my speed is too high. Also, if you don't mind would you share what software you use to print. I'm still a baby so i'm still using Cura as my platform for my prints.

I'm using Repetier Host with with Slic3r engine. Printed at 40 mm/s for the perimeters and 60 mm/s for bridges and infill. Not sure if there are better speeds to print this at but haven't had any issues with other parts I've printed at these speeds.

Awesome job! I printed mine in Transparent Green Polar PLA on my Polar 3D printer... it worked flawlessly!!!

Great design ! Printed one, see my makes. Will definitely do another one, with increased scale.

This is brilliant! Easily one of the most impressive models I've printed. Good job!

I printed 'Platform_Jack_0.65mm_tolerance.STL', with 15% Infill and 2 Shells, at 150 Microns

Awesome model!

I have printed the version with max tolerance @ 200microns/10% in my BEETHEFIRST. About 8h print.

Fully functional.

ABS on our Replicator 2X using a raft and the suggested 15% infil on the design with 0.65mm tolerance... was skeptical it'd work but was pleasantly surprised. Really cool design to show off to folks who don't realize some of the complex designs that can be accomplished with a single printed object.

Just started printing a 2nd...

That's 36 metres of PLA I'm not getting back

Great design and was really excited to print. However after 7 hours of printing, using the 0.65mm tolerance the screw fused at the bottom (like some other's mentioned) so had to break that. Then tried to manually extend but the scissor beams broke at the joints.

Can't say I'm not disappointed but thanks for the concept.

Printed on Prusa i3 Hephestos - 15% fill, 0.2mm layer @ 210°c with PLA on a raft (no support)

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Any chance of adding an allen key socket in the base of the screw or a slot for a screwdriver to make breaking the screw a little easier? I managed to break mine while trying to loosen it.

Can you give the dimensions for the screw? (thread, length, etc) My screw head broke off. Great design btw.

Even mine broke . How did u fix it? Did u print the other set of screws?

Very impressed. Printed on a ROBO 3D R1 using the 0.65 tolerance and it works fine. Took my printer a little over seven hours to do the print. Can't believe how well it works.

The screw on 0.65mm tolerance fused with its case near the knob. in the end I wasted 74g and had to broke the screw in order to make this expand/retractable

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How can this be printed without support? At height 66.1 mm the 3 left axles (as pictured) start forming practically in mid air (this is printed sideways, so they're actually printed around the top. The top and bottom axles (again, as pictured) are attached on the sides, but this still requires a 60mm+ bridge (my printed would never succeed in this), the middle axle extends from the center to both sides, for about 25mm.

Note: I just sliced and looked at the layers. Again, how can this be printed without support?

I'm pretty sure it's voodoo magic. But in all honesty, a well calibrated printer should be able to handle a 60mm bridge with minimal droops. I printed it last night, but was not very careful with it at first and broke the knob off. Aside from that, everything else came out perfect. Give it a try, maybe your printer will surprise you.

This the best thing on here i have seen to date...!!! Having a go at it now on my Sunhokey Prusa i3. Great work!

what material did you use to print with

We printed ours in PLA.

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do you think it could be printed in abs

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I'm very impressed about this great design and printing (and it remembers me to my earlyier days in the chemical lab too...). Few people, who don't own a 3D printer will believe that's possible ! I'll try soon, to print it on my Ultimaker II and report the result. Congratulations to this great thing.

I think that this is a really brilliant design and the absolute essence of what 3D printing is all about. Frankly I didn't think that my printer (Robox) could handle printing it, but I went ahead anyway. Unfortunately I broke some parts while trying to prize everything apart - the screw head broke off as others have found out. Nevertheless I would say that I was 90% there. I used ABS which I think is probably not the right material as there was a little warping at the base. The peg did not print perfectly round which is probably why the other parts resisted my attempts to prize them apart. Producing the bars at the top was fascinating to watch as it literally printed a long section in mid-air - even though the ends were anchored. I printed at 30% as 15% looked far too empty. I think a different printer and filament could produce a better result, or maybe I need to try different settings, so I will be trying again.

I printed one on a Robox. I printed in PLA on normal quality at 15%.

You should be able to twist the screw and shear the layer so that the screw turns and then glue the screw head back on.

Very impressive model and a great print. I'll add this to my collection sitting on my desk at work.

and yeah... I will prepare the strong fan at layer 221 (no raft with 0.3 layer hight) for the long bridge :D

printing right now at 0.3 layer 100%fill... nothing fuset together so far. Will se the results

I printed this, and it was defect,
the srew fas not completed build, all part ar glue together,
i take this in the trash....

pleas writ in the instruction, how to build this, programm, layers, speed, .....

Is there a possibility that you can upload a new screw for me? Mine broke off during my efforts to make it work (it was fused together a bit). I tried to model one myself, but inventor just would give me the right threat (for what I messured).
If you could upload a new one for me, that would be great!

Very clever, which software to model?

Really amazing that you designed it in such a way that it can be made in one print

genius design, enjoy everybody.

Thought about making a version where the knob is "nut-shaped" in order to use a handheld drill with a socket to raise/lower?

Uh, so it's much easier/faster to jack it up & down than using your fingers on a wheel.

Ok, how large is this thing going to be and what might you use it for....or is this just an idea for fun. I had suggested to someone else to use a small stepper motor that is coupled to the lead screw with a remote interface. A drill will probably end up destroying a 4-6 hour print job. That would be a neat little project me thinks.

Geez, all of the above......you can set a drill to a pretty low torque/speed, if you want. Have a nice day.

Geez? Lol, have a good time with your drill and little plastic scissor. It makes tons of sense all of the sudden, speed and ease. You should make a YouTube video for our viewing pleasure.

I'm not trying to explain rocket science here and you seem to be going out of your way to discount a question that wasn't even posed to you in the first place. Even a small, cordless screwdriver would work, if so desired. Buh bye....

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Has any one tried scaling the entire assembly up to make it bigger? and if so what was the success?
Im hoping to use it to raise and lower a syringe pump

We are currently running a print in max size on a Makerbot 5th Gen. We will let you know how it goes.

Wrong design/application. A simple screw with solid base and nut assembly would be a bit more sensible with a cleaner more compact design. Fewer moving parts for a stronger device that you could simply use a stepper motor/ thread pitch combination that would ultimately be more precice.

Doesn't this have very long overhangs? My printer doesn't have a fan yet so can't do long overhangs.

Yes, it has two 65mm overhangs and six 25mm overhangs.

Very nice design, my first print didn't work that well though because my first layer is a bit squished to improve adhesion so all parts touching the built plate were stuck together, really wish slic3r had some way to compensate for that, considering trying again with the first layer not being different from the rest but I'm worried about adhesion.

Try to change your first layer width.
Print Settings>Advanced>Extrusion Width>First Layer:set to 0 default 200%

Which material do you use, and do you have a Heated PrintBed?

PLA, and yes.

What do you use on the HPB to make prints stick?
I use a light covering of glue from a cheap glue-stick.
(My HPB is a thick aluminium slab with a plate of hardened glass on top)
Haven't had a single problem with non-stick prints yet.
(I heat the bed to 60C for PLA)

The gaps between the parts touching the plate... I used a knife to open the gaps after the printjob.

I didn't have much luck glue stick. The first print went well, but overtime, buildup from previous prints was too much to handle.
I prefer hairspray for PLA.

70 degree bed + AquaNet "Extra Super Hold". I put a heavy spray (5 second mist) on the bed before letting it heat up -- this covers the missing hairspray from the previous print. Then a very light mist once it finishes heating up. The 70 degrees evaporates the water and keeps it tacky. Then don't try to remove the prints until it is completely cold. You can usually just snap them off the bed, if not the upside down canned air trick works well (Don't get this in your eyes: it will cause frostbite).

And the best part is AquaNet is water soluble, so it just rinses off with a wet sponge or in the sink.

Some PVAc wood glue mixed with water works well for me, and yeah if I knew about that issue I could probably have gotten it to work first time, I just turned the knob until it snapped off, after that I got the parts apart using my exacto and some pulling and prying, screwed the knob onto the screw part.

Did you try printing our latest version with 0.65mm tolerance? Printing with a raft might also improve adhesion.

Yeah I printed the later version, I can get really good adhesion no problem but it usually involves squishing the first layer a bit which makes small gaps turn into solid bits, I'll have to find some balance point here between adhesion and over-squish.

You know that every other serious creator here on Thingiverse now hates you for pushing everyone's expectations skyhigh... ;-)

I was joking...

That's a pretty good compliment. :)

Finally, someone who gets it! ;-)

Feature this!! Way to go!!!

Really awsome that you've managed to get it printed in 1 piece!

This is hands down the most impressive thing i've seen on thingiverse. Also a lab jack like this, is one of the first things i wanted to print on my 3d printer. I haven't made one yet though. Definitely making this one. With it printing as one piece with no supports, I have no excuse. Simply amazing! You have officially blown my mind!

I have no idea what to use this for but I HAVE to print it.

I've printed this twice now and run into the same problem both times. Can you separate the screw from the model, it keeps breaking. Other than that, the rest of it prints and works great.

What are your print settings? Make sure that you print it with a 0.2mm layer height.

The first print was .2mm layer height and 15% infill (like the instructions said) with raft. The knob just snapped off in my hand so on the second print I've bumped it up to 35% infill with the same problem. When I took both apart, the screw was fused in place at the jack connection end with the knob. Part seems to be the problem is the prism on the screw is fused to the joint, where in you picture it is not.

It was designed to be fused initially and separate when twisted but it seems that it is prone to fusing permanently. We will upload an updated model soon to address the fusing issues.

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how have only 80 people downloaded it, this deserves more

More than likely requires print settings that most are not able to comprehend with their particular style media and printer for it to print successfully from what I have been reading. First layer/bed level, media/temps, extrusion rates/printer speed, room temperature or enclosure temps along with print bed temps, infill, how well you know and use your printer are all extremely essential for success. Keep playing/ keep learning and have fun first and foremost!

lo probare pero creo q es difícil que salga así nada mas de una vez espero funcione esta genial me gusto

This is really cool, it needs to be featured:)