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Eiffel tower

by Newcandle Jul 6, 2015
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do we need to add support??

didn't print well at all with the maker bot replicator+

Looks very good. But this is the Eiffel Tower from Las Vegas and not from Paris. You can see it, when you look at the top.

The vegas tower is a replica, how are they different other than size?

the original one has a thinner tip because it's used for various antennas, although the top part is much longer and only the lv version got the "Ball" on top. The original tip of the tower is pretty ugly due to the mass of antennas ^^

Is there an stl out there of the real one?

Why no printer settings? No info at all

It is a thingiverse thing. You have to waste hours and lots of filament to find the hidden settings. Not sure why, it became a thing over the years. There should be rules for submission at least basic print info etc.

Want a honest review? I printed this with the cat profile and at .2 resolution and this is how it turned out.

Thanks for review and pics

For some reason I have had difficulty getting the railing legs to print =(

I'm trying to slice with slicer and it misses details from middle/top part. I scaled to 150%, layer height 0.2 and width 0.4 (0.4 nozzle) but still loosing details of structure. Do I need smaller nozzle?

Same issue here with Slic3r. No issues with Cura 14, however.

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

qual programa utilizar para editar?? sou novato

Eu não sei sobre o criador, mas o tinkercad.com é bom para editar três dimensões

Just printed this Eiffel Tower model! Check out my time lapse video of the print:


Came out a bit stringy, but overall a decent print. I scaled the model to 1.4x. Print Settings:
0.2mm Layer Height
Rafts Used
No Support

Thanks for a great model!

I could not print this on a Formlabs form 2. File did not open on preform. Anyone else have this issue

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Prints perfect on an Anycubic Kossel Linear plus!
Guys, if you think it's a faulty model or it has a hole on the top, just magnifiy in Cura ansd you see it's not true! You just have to print it at the right size (wich is obviously far above 20cm height) to make the important details like the railings or the point even printable at a 0.2mm resolution!
Thanks for this great model!


Having good luck with your Linear Plus? I just ordered mine, and can't wait! But I digress...

Printed on the Tevo Tornado at max height (16"ish at .2 mm layers sliced with Ideamaker). Lo and behold, railings gone!
I went so far as to isolate JUST the railing, but once sliced, the vertical rails disappeared. Wierd.

I am happy with it after some modifications. Marlin 1.1.8 (mandatory! Makes it a totally different printer) . https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2803527 Trinamic stepper driver 2100 from Watterott , Ultrabase glass bed, Neopixel-LED and changed Bed clamps https://www.thingiverse.com/make:490402

Very helpful also https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611



Marlin 1.1.8 firmware for Anycubic Kossel(mini & plus), delta calibration circle
Bowden Tube Clip
by walter
Kossel Bed Clamp with Swinging Arm
by Arminth

Would not print on Prusa, PLA .20

Like or similar to all the other posts...Railings and others wicked small at default scale. Would assume would work, if you scale it up, or modify the wicked small cross beams and railings.. I just couldn't get it to print as is.

You're missing your railings fam.
Printing this at 135 mm/s on my Tronxy x5

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MP SELECT MINI 3D on standard speed. Did not work out well.

Yours did better than mine. I got an MP Select Mini v2 for Christmas and printed the cat on the SD card that came with it just fine but so far I've not had luck printing anything else. On this, I had a big nest of crap in the middle nothing close to what you got.

that happened with me too but i downloaded cura and it worked fine

Yeah, FDM printers don't tend to be able to print stuff like this very well. However, SLA printer people love to use this as a way to demonstrate the precision of SLA.

I mean, yes they're generally more precise, but obviously their settings are enormously off and you're way over-generalizing.
FDM can still produce incredible results if calibrated correctly, yet are a single fan or temp setting off from a total disaster. Their tweakability is arguably their strong points too.

If you look closely at the profile pic of this model, you can see the top is missing - the thumb hides it. This is because the slicing program will make a gap just under the top of the tower. The printer will try to print the top into thin air, and will fail - as seen in the profile pic above. Also notice that the railing is missing in this pic - also too thin. Should have a warning about this in the description, should have an honest picture, and should not have 8000 likes.

+1 model need to be fixed

pretty cool i know make some other famous landmarks!!!!!

in repetier whien slice tower i have a hole in last stage .
Je n'arrive pas à couper la tour. Il y a un trou entre le dernier étage et l'antene. Le 3 niveau disparait ainsi que les balusstrades du 1étage

This is pretty cool although it doesn't look like it would be a perfect print.

How did you get the model? Did you design it yourself, get it from someone else, or scan the entire tower? XD

Tried to print this as is with normal settings on a Anet A8 just built it did not turn out.
Looked like the finer details were not getting enough material.
going to scale it bigger to see if that helps with the railing being able to hold.

yeah flow is a big pile of shit on the anet

Anyone try to print this on a DLP or SLA printer? Want to try it once my WanHao Duplicator 7 comes.

I just made it on the formlabs 2+. I'll post a picture

does it need supports of helper disks???

slic3 hangs on 80 pre cent and cura is not slicing the fences well. Only the rail.
Not printable

What speed should I print this at?

Literally as slow as your printer allows.

Hello . Any tricks for this model ? Before i print it . Um 2+

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have you tried retraction? it helps a lot.

Does this require supports?

What slicer works for this model?

there are need a supports for printing ?

No, it should print fine without them with a decent printer.

there are need a supports for printing ?

I tested the print at 5 inches (~ 11 cm) tall on a Raise3D N2 Plus FDM printer. With a raft but no supports.
Looks very good, except the top few millimeters broke off at the end of the print.
Raise 3D Standard profile: .15mm layers, 2 shells, 10% density, 3.25 hrs, ~ 35 cents in 3D Solutech PLA filament.
Thanks to @Newcandle for the model.

I am currently running the same test specs at 14 inches (~35 cm) tall.
It has been running for 10 hours and has 21 hours left :)

Printed in 5.5 hours at 2x the file size (approx 30cm tall) . 0.2 layer height, Kossel Mini Delta .. Railing is thin an almost non existent (sliced with Cura) but there is still enough to look ok from far.

Print in PLA / no support / 30 cm height / 20 hours / The railing is too thin to be considered printable by most slicers.
Nozzle 0.4 / layer height 0.20 mm !

I was going to use this to demonstrate the height capabilities of my printer but the print would take 21 hours. Sad times.

The railing is 0.24mm wide at 100% scale. It needs to be bigger than your nozzle diameter to print I guess. Unless you have a huge printer, you may consider cut it into sections in netfabb basic then print the sections scaled up sufficiently as suggest by one of the made.

The railing is too thin to be considered printable by most slicers. Even on high resolution mode, the railing is not there in Simplfy3D. I played around with this model and discovered that by scaling the Z axis to 150 mm, (124.02%), the railing is there. I have printed other things 150 mm tall, but that is close to the limit for my printer. Hopefully this discovery helps someone else as well.

EDIT, the railing only appears when I set the nozzle diameter to .20 mm width and layer height to .10 mm. This also makes for a 10+ hour print job. Scale to 120% with these nozzle settings and it still has the railing.

just remember. if you set to .2mm nozzle without actually PUTTING a .2mm nozzle on the printer its going to come out bad :-)

tried twice to print the tower. Only 1/3 of it finished. Using a makerbot z18 first platform looks great but quits there and shows 100%finished. Any ideas out there?

Same thing keeps happening to me.

i see it printed most of it. good turn out on what did print correctly, i have the same small issues with my printer doing good on miniature detail pieces. i see no railing and your covering the top as it looks to be missing in your hands? so you cut it off is that right? maybe you can print them separately and glue them on. just a thought . thanks for sharing :)

To me, impossible on the Da Vinci 1.0 Pro. Not sure why FDM doesn't like the Eiffel Tower. I tried raft, supports, even slowing down the speed. Never worked.

Your picture and model do not match. Your picture doesn't have the railing around the middle. Did you modify it?

I'm trying to figure out the same thing. The picture seems great but I can't get the model to print correctly on a Replicator Mini.

i replicator mini might be able to do this but your going to have issues with scale unless you break it up and scale it up.

remember if any part is smaller than .4mm wide its going to "ignore" it as if its not their.

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What's your recommendation for printing? Did you use support?

Looks like SLS or SLA. Supports would certainly be needed on a FDM printer.

No. Printed well about 10" tall on Folgertech ft5 without supports but with raft. Railing does appear to be removed in the picture.