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profbink

The Osprey Hand by Alderhand and e-Nable

by profbink Jul 4, 2015
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I've added this device to the customizer I made for the e-NABLE community https://bymu.eu/customizer/?device=osprey-hand

The purpose of this customizer is to help recipients visualize their device in a 3D environment with the colors they want. The customizer has the ability to share a created color scheme with a short URL or save it as an image and thus can help recipients collaborate with those making the device.

The customizer is free to use for everyone!

Very, very cool!! Thank you Mazvydas!

Hello

Thanks a lot for the Great work,
Wanted to ask you about the CAD Files, would you share them ?
I haven`t found any, or wich kind of license you released it.

Thanks a lot

p.s. I want to make some Modifications thats why i need the Cad Files,

What do the dimensional tolerances A-D refer to? There is no mention of these tolerances anywhere on E-nable's website?

Under "Thing Details" on this page, go to "Instructions" and click on the first link, which opens a Google document that provides detailed instructions. Basically, the "A" set is the loosest and the "D" set is the tightest. You first print a palm and the ABCD key to determine the best fit, then print the proximals and pins for that fit.

We want to start a chapter in San Jose, CA as part of our project, and have to fulfill the requirements for E-nable, our university and the company we are working with. Our problem is that the neither the instructions or E-nable's website list what these tolerances actually are. Am I understanding correctly that "A" and "D" do not correspond to any tolerance measurements and they are arbitrarily chosen...?

The tolerances are calculated at regular intervals, based on trial and error across different printers at different scales. If you are printing a large hand (like 160%) on an under-extruding printer with a material that shrinks as it cools (like ABS) you will likely need to use the C or D set. If you're printing a small hand (like 100%) on an over-extruding printer in a material that doesn't shrink (like PLA), you will likely need to use the A or B set. The ABCD key was invented by Peregrine Hawthorn, and it eliminates any guesswork. Do you need to know the exact measurement for the gaps between the proximal phalanges and their sockets in the palm component at 100%? E-Nable certainly doesn't require that level of analysis to start a chapter. Feel free to contact me directly at profbink@gmail.com

Hey everyone, thought I'd give everyone a (almost) one-stop shop for these parts. I'm building this soon for a few individuals. I'm trying to find alternatives to expensive leather pieces but I REMIXED with a TPU "leather" that could be used. Also, with the quantities I've put each, I can build about 5 of these, thus around $50 for 5 sets or $10 each sans leather (roughly).

SMALL BUILD KIT

10 count: 3/16" 6-32 set screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-6-32-x-3-16-in-Internal-Hex-Socket-Head-Set-Screw-20-Pack-3273/204786244

6 count: 7/16" 6-32 socket flat head screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-6-32-x-7-16-in-Internal-Hex-Flat-Head-Cap-Screws-2-Pack-33938/2035753821

16 count: 1/2" #4 truss head sheet metal screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-x-1-2-in-Phillips-Pan-Head-Sheet-Metal-Screws-8-per-Pack-34431/202706508

1.2mm nylon monofilament: 6' or 1.4mm nylon mono: 6'
https://www.amazon.com/Monofilament-Fishing-1-4mm-200lb-Clear-Loop-protectors/dp/B009830TTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527819597&sr=8-1&keywords=1.4mm+monofilament

6-7oz vegetable tanned leather 4" x 4" square
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Product_ID=695

4-5oz vegetable tanned leather 6" x 5" rectangle
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Category=ORTH

1/8” (3mm) closed cell adhesive orthopedic foam, 4” x 5” rectangle
https://www.amazon.com/Jaybird-Mais-30-507118-Adhesive-Foam/dp/B000VQHS5I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527820801&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8%22+adhesive+foam

3’ of 1" nylon flat webbing
https://www.amazon.com/Marsway-Thickness-Fastening-Equipments-Accessories/dp/B06XPYNXXW/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527821995&sr=1-5&keywords=1%22+nylon+webbing+strap

Hex wrenches: 1/16", 5/64"
https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html
Drill bits: 1/16", 3/32” and 1/8"
A Phillips screwdriver, size 1

MEDIUM BUILD KIT: 125%-140% Print Scale

10 count 1/4" 8-32 set screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-8-32-tpi-x-1-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Socket-Set-Screw-2-Piece-per-Pack-811988/204274339

6 count 1/2" 8-32 socket flat head screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-32-x-1-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Drive-Flat-Head-Stainless-Steel-Socket-Cap-Screws-2-Piece-811488/204225817

16 x #4 1/2" truss head sheet metal screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-x-1-2-in-Phillips-Pan-Head-Sheet-Metal-Screws-8-per-Pack-34431/202706508

1.6mm nylon mono: 6’
https://www.amazon.com/Monofilament-Fishing-1-4mm-200lb-Clear-Loop-protectors/dp/B009830TTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527819597&sr=8-1&keywords=1.4mm+monofilament

6-7oz vegetable tanned leather 5" x 5" square
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Product_ID=695

4-5oz vegetable tanned leather 7" x 6" rectangle
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Category=ORTH

1/8” (3mm) closed cell adhesive orthopedic foam, 5” x 6” rectangle
https://www.amazon.com/Jaybird-Mais-30-507118-Adhesive-Foam/dp/B000VQHS5I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527820801&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8%22+adhesive+foam

4’ of 1" nylon flat webbing
https://www.amazon.com/Marsway-Thickness-Fastening-Equipments-Accessories/dp/B06XPYNXXW/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527821995&sr=1-5&keywords=1%22+nylon+webbing+strap

Hex wrenches: 5/64", 3/32"
https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html
Drill bits: 5/64", 3/32” and 9/64"
A Phillips screwdriver, size 1

LARGE BUILD KIT: 145%-165% Print Scale

10 count 5/16” 10-24 set screws
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/products/10-24-x-5-16-socket-set-screw-cup-point-18-8-a2-stainless-steel?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv5ef_cKx2wIVAQOGCh1sYgwtEAQYAyABEgJS5_D_BwE

6 x 1/2" 10-24 socket flat head screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-24-x-1-2-in-Internal-Hex-Flat-Head-Cap-Screws-2-Pack-69928/202209939

16 count #6 1/2" truss head sheet metal screws
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6-x-1-2-in-Phillips-Zinc-Plated-Steel-Pan-Head-Sheet-Metal-Screw-16-per-Pack-806201/204275192

1.8mm nylon mono: 8'
https://www.amazon.com/Monofilament-Fishing-1-4mm-200lb-Clear-Loop-protectors/dp/B009830TTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527819597&sr=8-1&keywords=1.4mm+monofilament

6-7oz vegetable tanned leather 6" x 6" square
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Product_ID=695

4-5oz vegetable tanned leather 9" x 7" rectangle
https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Category=ORTH

1/8” (3mm) closed cell adhesive orthopedic foam, 6” x 7” rectangle
https://www.amazon.com/Jaybird-Mais-30-507118-Adhesive-Foam/dp/B000VQHS5I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527820801&sr=8-4&keywords=1%2F8%22+adhesive+foam

6’ of 1" nylon flat webbing
https://www.amazon.com/Marsway-Thickness-Fastening-Equipments-Accessories/dp/B06XPYNXXW/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527821995&sr=1-5&keywords=1%22+nylon+webbing+strap

Hex wrenches: 3/32", 1/8"
https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-sae-metric-hex-key-set-94725.html
Drill bits: 5/64", 1/8" and 5/32"
A Phillips screwdriver, size 2

I followed some of your links. Just a few things to note.
The nylon webbing should be lightweight and loose weave. The photo on Amazon shows a tight weave webbing. It will be difficult to push the screws through the weave, and at 1.5mm thick, it's too thick for the printed buckles.
Not sure that the ortho foam you linked is closed cell. If it's open-cell, it will absorb sweat and get stinky and dirty. Closed cell has a slick, waterproof surface that you can easily wipe clean, and it won't absorb any water or oil.
Your links to the nylon fishing line are the same, which is the 1.4 mm thickness. Great for a 120% build, but too thick for a 100% build and too wimpy for a 140% build. The same vendor, Catch All Tackle has all the thicknesses needed.
I like that you found stuff at the Home Depot and Harbor Freight.

Nylon line has been the bane of my existence. I've been considering either guitar or piano wire (steel) for more robust projects. Thoughts?

What problems are you having with nylon monofilament?

Maybe it's just me, but, I don't feel that the line is sufficient. I'd prefer a more robust solution, as in the metal wire.

The key with the nylon monofilament is thickness. If you follow the guidelines in the instructions, you will have robust results. And having a little bit of stretch (but not too much) helps with adaptive grip.

This is wonderful! And your price is very low. Folks, this is the way to go. I'd still suggest using leather, but that's not too difficult to find, and it's not very expensive. Thanks Comsecfor!!

Thanks for the kinds words. I'm semi-retiring to the Philippines come march and starting my 3d printed hand Foundation. Yep, going e-Nable process soon, lol! Already got with the Manila branch.

Hi, excellent design!

Do you have the stl files of the fingers separately? I wanted to print the 5 and one failed .... I would not want to do all of them again. Thank you

No problem. I just added a .zip file containing separate finger .stl files. The pointer and ring finger are exactly the same, so there are four files. Let me know if you need anything else.

Hi, thanks for the files.
I have a problem and maybe you can help me ..... in all, absolutely all the files you download from thingiverse I have the problem that the dimensions in X and Y are 0.4mm bigger, so the pieces do not fit me perfectly, in the Z axis I have no problems, I think that as the nozzle is 0.4mm leaves me an offset of 0.2 for each side, and that's why the piece comes out bigger ..... there is some configuration to compensate for that offset ? I use simplify .... thanks again

Hi! I want to print it on ABS, what kind of configuration do you recommend? Thank you!!

Detailed instructions are linked under Thing Details. The Google document has everything you need to know. For ABS, i'd suggest 0.2-0.3mm layers, with a brim but no support. Nozzle temp 248C bed temp 95C and no fan, or at most 25%. Then after basic post-print cleanup, use acetone vapor to smooth off the prints. Please do look at the instructions for guidance, especially if you're making an Osprey hand to fit a person.

So we need to print out every single file correct?

No, don't print everything.
Once you have determined proper print scale, print the palm (left or right) and the OSPproximalABCDKey. Then use the key to determine which letter (A, B, C, or D) represents the best mechanical tolerance for your circumstance. Then print 5 proximals of that letter and one set of pins of that letter. Print everything else at the same scale, except for the triglides. Select the triglide that corresponds with the width of nylon strap you are using and print two, at 100% scale.
I hope this helps.

Comments deleted.

What are the holes for on the white part of the hand that are on the top for ?

If you look at the photos you will see there is some metal hardware. Flat headed screws attach the leather and the straps. And set screws secure the cables. Two screws on each cable, for a secure connection. The screws bite directly into the plastic.

how do you clean out the wire holes when printed with support material

As per the instructions, print with no support material. In your slicer settings, support should be turned off.
These models all have built-in support, which breaks off easily after printing. If you're printing in ABS, you may want to add some brim (if your slicer supports it) but in PLA, these components should all print great with neither brim nor support.
If you have support material in the long channels of the bracer, you can drill them out with a long drill bit. If you have support material in the curved channels of the palm, you had better just re-print that component without support.
If it were me, I'd reprint everything (except the pins) with no support. Otherwise, you will spend too much time removing support material.

Is this still the case with the newest version of the palm? I am unable to print this component without supports on a standard Prusa i2. I haven't even tried the bracer, but looking at the model, it doesn't look like it will print either.

I'm not sure why you're unable to print the palm. Maybe your nozzle temps are too high, so you're getting too much slumping. All the components have printed successfully at scales between 100% and 200% on a variety of printers. I would suggest fiddling with your printer settings.

Comments deleted.

I probably should have updated. I have a number of problems with my printer that were making this unprintable. A combination of warped glass on my heated build platform, an issue with my z-axis couplers slowly sliding off the motors, and play on the y-axis seem to be the main causes. I am in the process of replacing my bed with an aluminum one and silicon heater, and then I'm gonna replace my z-axis couplers, and install a y-belt tensioner, after that I don't expect it will continue to be a problem.
p.s. Sorry for the deleted comments, Thingiverse gives me no indication that clicking the, "Post Comment" button actually works, so I hit it multiple times, when nothing seemed to be happening.

That's the dirty little secret about consumer 3d printers. They are temperamental and may often need adjustment and repair.

Very true, but that's part of what makes the hobby fun, at least to me.

Comments deleted.

Printed and posted feedback on the forum. Awesome design!

Wonderful piece of work, Peter and all!

This is BEAUTIFUL!

Thank you Laird. :) This should greatly simplify the Hand-O-Matic process. Since the bracer is now a universal fit, we can just focus on the palm of the device fitting around the palm of the client.