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Scalar Family - 3D Printer

by 3DModularSystems Jun 21, 2015
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i im looking for the aluminum.plate for xl? can i buy it seperate or can i get the dxf of that? thanks

We can provide a kit of plates (bottom + top): http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/heat-bed/171-full-aluminium-plate-kit-3mm-thick-for-scalar-xl-heatbed.html
we can also provide plates separately depending on wich one you need.
The dxf for the scalar XL plate can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341758

Scalar XL - Bed supports Aligners

hi i have only 4040 profiles, do you think it can work?

Some parts won't fit. You will need to modify them i believe.

Comments deleted.

The parts to build the XL are slowly but surely arriving. I have a question about this wiring diagram. The diagram shows one of the wires going from the relay to the heat bed being split and seemingly going off to somewhere, but doesn't show where they are going. Where are those wires going? I would have thought you just hook the relay + and - to the heat bed + or -.

That is a lot of voltage, want to make sure I hook that up right.

Comments deleted.

There is a small omission in not only this kit, but in the offerings on your website. You sell not provide links, nor have STLs to a means to mount both of your 300x200 and 300x400 mm heated beds. Meaning, there is no Y carriage offering. You sell the heaters, the build surface, but no means to attach it to the linear rails?

lil help.

what do you mean by "mount" ?
You have all the necessary STL on all of our printers, just look at the "makes", people are building scalars :-)
Are you talking about "Y_Axis_LM8UU_Holder.stl" for exemple on this version of the scalar that use smooth rods ?
For the XL premium with linear rail please check this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1931326
And use "Support_Roulettes_Plateau" with "Support_Roulettes_Renfort" to fix the bottom plate.

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)
Comments deleted.

I have a 400 x 400 x 700 , however I need to print a long flat wing 740long and 80high . It will be out of CF and takes a lot of strain so cutting and joining is not a real option, thinking I build a 400x800x400 so I can print flat and use 2 heated beds or ezsticks

Just checking if there are any mechanical issues , like maybe going 4040 / 3060 frame ?
And what allowance I need to add for the 800 width frame to fit

Very nice project !
The less you move the bed of this side, the better.
So taking this into account, you may want to have the Bed to be 800mm on the X axis and only 400mm on the Y Axis.
Also consider using the Scalar XL Premium design with Vslot extrusion profiles instead.
that is using the dual drive system: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1766326
Here you might even consider upgrading to quad drive system^^ with 2 additional sync belts in the middle of the bed.

You can see more detailed pictures on our website:

Also consider possible chassis re-inforcements to compensate for the large size of the structure.I think you can keep 3030 extrusions or upgrade for 3060 which shouldn't impact too much the design.


Again for the Bed weight you might consider adding a 2nd X motor (check this simple upgrade here: http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/scalar-l/400-upgrade-dual-y-motor-for-scalar-l-and-xl-premium.html) this one is easy to install and it's great addition.
With 2 motors connected on the same stepper driver, you might consider using DRV8825 drivers set to 16Microsteps.
16 micro-steps keeps most of torque available and the DRV8825 can go up to 2A max, so you can have 1A on each motor.

As the X axis is very long, you might have issues with long belts. I believe tensioners are not sufficient for this length. You might also consider adding a 2nd motor on the X axis . This should prevent the belt from vibrating too much.
If you connect both X motors on the same Stepper driver you should be okay with both motors being in sync.
If you are using 2 separate steppers on 1 axis you might have some sync issues. Nothing guaranties that the firmware will drive both steppers at the same time.

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)
Scalar - Dual Drive System for Scalar Heatbeds
Comments deleted.

in the Documentation http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/scalar-l-x-axis-assembly-horizontal/ is a noticed about a motor support of the X Axis and fixation of the extrusion profile that of the X Axis. Where can i find the STL Files ?

Also the holding part on the right side ?

Thanks a lot.

this is for Scalar XL Premium 3D printer.
you can find all the STL files in the dedicated thing here:
Scalar XL Premium
Scalar L:

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)
Scalar L 3D printer (30x30x30cm)

Very good.
Thanks a lot.

I am happy that my XL Premium 40 is growing :)

I hope you can share some pictures when it's done ;)

Sure :)
Is it possible to make an other Electronic Box ?

An often sold bundle was the "Kuman Upgraded 3D Printer Controller Kit For Arduino electronic projects robot kits With Mega 2560 R3 +RAMPS 1.4 + A4988 Stepper Motor Driver+ LCD 12864 K17" and this LCD wont fit in your Electronic Box.

Thank you.

Have you checked our Box V3?
it's compatible with 2 displays:
-RRD 20x4 digits
-Full graphic RRD Display.(12864)

V3.0 Scalar - Electronic Box for MEGA/Re-Arm+RAMPS+LCD2004/GLCD+RPI3

Ok, this may work.
I just have to buy a new display. I have also a 12864 Display (2004 LCD) but my buttons and buzzer are down under the display, and my set also includes a SD Card Reader.

Where do you want, that i post my pictures? .. in my later summary?

Please create a thingiverse "I made one" and post your pictures there ;) thanks

i try to build a Scalar XL Premium 40.
In the Tutorial http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/scalar-l-z-and-y-axis-wiring/ is in notice about the Z axis motor holder, but i cant find it here.

is it possible to upload it, or say what print the correct one was?
I found no motor holder with attachment points on the longer sides.

The next Question, which motor hight do you use? In the tutorial there is just the info about the Motor, but not which Nema 17 Motor.

And the last for now - I cant find the printed parts from this tutorial http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/scalar-l-x-axis-assembly-horizontal/ .

Thanks a lot.


Sorry if there is an answer to this alreay - i don't see it - is there a hardware list i.e. list of all screws and washers etc etc


Yes, Hardware list is at the bottom of the description => BOM

AHHA! Thank you. I was looking in the documentation. Is the BOM the same for the "S" version? On thingiverse i see the link for the BOM for the S but nothing on the page for the BOM. Sorry for the pain

For the S model, indeed the BOM doesn't exist as such. The list of parts is spread over the whole assembly manual.
On our side it's easier this way as we don't need to change the whole BOM when we make any documentation update.

great job! wow so kool must have taken along time to make and install it all. but it is so good it was worth every second! i love the license plate rotation. i could use one of those so bad for our stupid road speed cameras all through our town and interstate roads. could you show us a bit of how that part works? thanks for posting this it gives inspiration to alot of people myself included. i would love to see the car in person!

Hello, the Car is not ours personally, so we cannot take any more shots of the mecanism.

Comments deleted.

Could you reupload files?, i need "DXF_Plateau_M" because it's a litttle warped shape in file.

What parts do I need for a lead screw, the Trapezoidal thread stuff? Only m8 supports are in the thing files?

For M8 lead screw use the M8 parts provided in this thing.
for Trap screw (TR8x1.5) use this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379066

Scalar - Upgrade Z Axis trapezoïdal screw

Hey, could I use this one ALU extrusion https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGxvwwUCvNhblA0THB6Q0xQWkk
for scalar M Frame??
This one is in your shop https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzGxvwwUCvNhVVpnS0VJQVlyVFk
there are some diferences betwen them, it will be ok?

Yes it should fit!

I couldn't find yaxis end stop plastic part next to yaxis stepper motor help me!

i couldn't find y axis end stop plastic parts next to y axis stepper motor help me!

It is called

Comments deleted.

Design Spark Mechanical

I'm building now and can't seem to manage a straight z-rod. Are the z-motors holders you recently uploaded for the old z-top holder? They don't align good. Any help would be appreciated!

Indeed the Top Z are for the Trap lead screw. If you are using M8 leadscrew with standard nut you need another part.
I've uploaded it

One more question: What parts do I need for a lead screw, the Trapezoidal thread stuff?

are all the stepper motor mounts printed for the 3030 aluminum extrusion??

Yes, these models are for Scalar M and XL.
If you want a model that is using 2020 extrusion, please look at Scalar S https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1973604

Scalar S - 3D Printer (20x20x20cm)

Where can I find the nema 17 Z-axis holders? Can't seem to find them in the ''thing files''?

Yes they are missing, indeed, i'll post them back next week, tanks for this feedback.

Thanks, but is it possible that you post them earlier? I need to finish the printer asap for a school project :)

I am having a problem where on every layer either the start or the end of the layer is not being extruded. I thought it was related to retraction settings but ive completely disabled retraction and it is still doing this. Do you have any ideas?

Have you calibrated your extruder properly?

Yes i calibrated it a couple times just to be sure. Its almost like the coast function is enabled but it is not. Ive been 3d printing for 10 years and i have tried everything i know. its frustrating lol.

On this i have no real solution for this sort of long distance support. the only thing i can point at is to look carefully the machine when printing, the solution is often obvious this way after spending 20-30minutes looking at what the printer is doing wrong.
If it comes from the printer it should be obvious, if it comes from the slicer then it's not that obvious.

I hope it can help but i feel you've already done that :/

this comment is the two hundred first comment

I want to know printing quality of this 3d printer
Can you take full time printing video and upload your youtube?

What kind of aluminium extrusion are you recommending? Bosch Type or Item Type? I plan using Item Type, would that work?

What's the biggest build volume anyone has ever realized with this design? I plan to go big with this one :D

we are using Bosh type, but i guess Item type should do, the nuts will be different however.
We managed to print 60x60cm, but you need to consider re-inforcing your heatbed and probably the Z Axis to prevent vibrations.
Also you need to make some adjustments if you want to use normal belts, they will vibrate at these length. Consider using Helix screws instead or anything other than belts.

Thanks for your reply! I am currently planning to use 800mm in X and 400mm in Y, so I do not expect the belts to be an issue. But I think I should use 3 rails for the Y-Axis (going Triple-Drive then :D ).

It might do the trick

Maybe i missed it somewhere but what size is the bearing for the extruder arm? thanks again

Can i use the Bl touch with this printer and firmware instead of the inductive sensor?

Sure, you will need to use Marlin RC8 firmware in order to fully support BLTouch features.
If you have a Touch clone you can use the standard way to use a servo with an end stop as most clones are using this mode.

Is there a file for the y axis bearing holders using 10mm rod i found the y axis supports for 10mm but not the bearing holder or bearing holder with endstop?

yes , i've just added the normal LM10UU Holder but for some reason i cannot find out the one with the end stop, so you might need to take the RSDoc and update it to add the end stop.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2141429 if you wanna upload it on here would be fine. thanks

y axis bearing holder 10mm with endstop

Can I use 2525 T-Slot instead?

Sure but you might need to adjust a few plastic parts!

someone please share the cura or slic3r settings for this machine?

i dont think anyone understands what you mean? are you referring to the firmware for the drivers? everything is on his list or BOM.

thank you sir. i just tried fitting a budashcnozzle hot end on your all in one hot end mound but there no way to mount its as none of the holes line up. i just tohught id let you know.

Thanks for your feedback!

Hey, Thank you for the feedback, please check the simple support for the E3D, maybe it suits best the head you want to use :-)

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)

Hey, Thank you for the feedback, please check the simple support for the E3D, maybe it suits best the head you want to use :-)

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)

Hey, Thank you for the feedback, please check the simple support for the E3D, maybe it suits best the head you want to use :-)

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)

Hey, Thank you for the feedback, please check the simple support for the E3D, maybe it suits best the head you want to use :-)

Hey, Thank you for the feedback, please check the simple support for the E3D, maybe it suits best the head you want to use :-)

Scalar XL Premium 3D printer (40x30x30cm)

thank you sir. i just tried fitting a budashcnozzle hot end on your all in one hot end mound but there no way to mount its as none of the holes line up. i just tohught id let you know.

do you also have a dxf file of the bed so i can cut it in aluminum?

Hello! i just added them on this thing.

Do you have a file for the XL that has a holder for the threaded rods? only thing on file was the holder for smooth rods but threaded rods free floating?

We had the holder for the top of the threaded rod, but you get wooble by adgind it, it's not a good idea to hold the top of the threaded rod of Z axis.

im trying to put a 608 bearing at the end of the m8 then mount it at the top? mounting at the top make its wobble?

yes it often does that

do you also have an adaptor to use an m8 lead screw for the X axis? currently, what you have is an adaptor for an m8 threaded rod and m8 hex nut but not for the m8 lead screw and m8 lead nut? id be more than happy to donate . this is a ggreat project

You mean adaptor for chinease T8 lead screws?
Yes we have an adaptator here:
look for the one called AdaptorIgusToT8_Nut.stl

For the donation we greatly appreciate it ;) you should be able to use the thingiverse "tip" button or our paypal.me link

We are now starting to sell some more upgrades for the M and XL model. Thingivers things should come by soon.
Meanwhile you can see what the upgrades looks like here:

The main ones are:
Dual drive system for heatbed

We should very soon be able to propose Closed loop motor system for X and Y axis, etc... and more to come...

Scalar - Compact Nut Adaptors for Trapezoidal Tr08x1.5 Holders to M8 nuts

​I have a couple of questions to be cleared about wiring. First of all, as I understood from @mickeypop 's sayings in here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/?ALLSTEPS , S pin of the RAMPS is "Signal in" pin and it needs to take in 5V voltage. PNP and NPN proximity sensors are different basically as the Black wire could be used as "sinking" or "sourcing" the current as mentioned here:

If the S pin is "sinking" in RAMPS how can we use the NPN proximity sensors as they are used for sourcing pins? Are they different in wiring or what? And is there any difference in voltage dividing of these types? Please could someone clarify this mess in my head?

I saw that diagram but which ends we should wire to the RAMPS?

the left side, right after the resistors

On this schematic the 2 pins red and black on dupont are the extensions of black and blue wire right after resistors.
The red wire left alone is the extension of the brown wire.

Hello. Can we use 12864 graphical LCD instead of lcd2004? And if possible, what settings should we change?

Hello, yes you can use a graphical display.
On the firmware side you need to activate this LCD model inside configuration.h
Also you might require some arduino lib for this display.
The procedure on where to find this library and how to install it is descried inside configuration.h of the firmware.

Thank you very much for fast response

Hey again old friend!
I have made another addition for this project, this will greatly help those struggling with bearing mounts, eliminates lateral movement and maintains the intended perpendicular axis of the bearings. I am using this on my Y axis, but it should work with the X as well.

608 Bearing(8mm) to 3mm stabilizer

Thanks a lot for this great addition!

Hi Guys. I'm in the process of printing out the parts for the XL but I was just wondering if anybody could give me some advise on cleaning out the 625ZZ_bearing_cage_V5 parts of the support material. I've already managed to destroy 2 of these parts, even tho I've been as careful as I can. Many thanks in advance.

The best solution we found to replace these are some delrin idlers:
These won't break

About how much does it cost to make?

It all depends where you buy your parts.
We are selling the kits for 899€ for the XL version

2x 400mm 3030 aluminum extrusion
2x 500mm 3030 aluminum extrusion
2x 600mm 3030 aluminum extrusion
1x 700mm 3030 aluminum extrusion

Which one for x, y, z axis?
CaN i resize the dimension?

Here is all the documentation in English:

600 are for X, 700 is for the top of Z axis
400 are for Y and 500 for Z.
Of course you can resize them as you which , you will need to adjust the smooth rods accordingly as well as the extrusions position on the chassis depending on which size you want to increase.

If you want to increase the Y axis, you might consider using 10mm or higher smooth rod Diameters.

Hi all,

Did you ever try BBP mother board for our Scalar model?

I have one and i wondering it can improve or not.


not tried it but the main issue with this kind of boards is that they have only 1 output connector for the Z axis.

Can you explain me why my machine lost steps frequenctly, even with slow speed (i dont know exactly how to say, it mean it print out of boundary). What is main reason and what i can fix or change?

In cura the center of your bed is not properly set. You have 2 options:

  • check : origin in the center of the plate-forme => for delta users
    -Uncheck origin in the center of the plate-forme => for carthesian users

hi all,
after time, the plywood platform got some problem. so i would like to change to mika board. Have anyone changed? Can you help me the detail?
I use 3mm alu plate also but the surface is not plat anymore. I want to change also, which and adjustable.

Thank you

here is the base plate dimensions:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341758 and aligners

So far we have no feedbacks that people have changed it.
We now provide 3mm laser cut base plate and some springs to be able to adjust the top heating plate.

You will never be able to get a perfectly flat surface, each materials will deform when heating. Also the bigger the print surface, the more likely it will happen . For big parts we are using pretty big first layer height to compensate for this issue and so far it's working for us.

Here is an alternative solution to compensate for this kind of issue. this requires 3rd party application:

This one will allow you to make a topography or your print surface and print over it.
I've never tried it with 3D printer Gcodes but it's working fine to do PCB milling that requires a great precision when milling.

Scalar XL - Bed supports Aligners

Thank you alot for valuable support.

Our concern is that you enjoy this machine!

Why X Axis assembly video is private?

The media was removed and updated with a new URL that's why.
I've just updated the link in the description, please try again.

what plate are you using for the print bed? ive been using an 2mm alumina plate, but the surface isnt even flat-.-
cause of this printing is nearly impossible.

We are using 3mm aluminum plates.

The bigger the plate, the harder it will become for you to have a perfectly plane surface.
We are using auto bed leveling to compensate for the plate tilt, and right now it's enough for the XL.

Later on we might need to use the multi point grid version of the Auto bed leveling.

Did you upload the software somewhere?


please send us an email to contact@3dmodularsystems.com with more info (M or XL ? What hotend ? etc) So we can send you the most accurate version.

there are 2 @ in the mail. isnt that a fault?

Sorry I mixed the 2. thank you !

I am using a 9mm thick 5052 aluminum plate, with 3-point planar geometry for leveling.
In my case, I was able to get an excellent sample rolled, finished, and cut to my specifications. I would say it's about 0.05mm bilateral tolerances less than 5%.

It does work well, but I'm not sure my build fits well with the sane builds. Then again, I am crazy.


Here's another, I'll have images up after building, currently testing some urethane filament, which was the primary reason for developing this.

also the wobble issue with the z.

would it not be better to have the Z motors at the top so gravity is working for you, (thread hangs true) instead of at the bottom where gravity is against you (thread whats to fall over) ?

or have top thread mount with thrust bearings to take the wight of the X assembly?

Placing the motors are the top may be a good idea, we thought about an upgrade like this but never really made anything out of this.
Add a bearing is a bad idead, because it will just amplify the wooble effect and directly impact your printed object.
I believe we can reduce the wooble by choosing the proper coupler model, the ones with the holding screws on the side my be better than the one with the holding screws in the center of the coupler.
It's just a hint, nothing certain yet.

thanks for getting back to me, and the info.
yep think i will have a play around turning the Z motor mounts upside-down at the top.
il get some rod mounts for the bottom. that will move the X axis a few mm closer, as it will place the rods in the center of ally extrusion, but should be ok

il let you know how i get on :)

Thanks a lot that would be great indeed ;)
Also if you made a Scalar XL on your side, we are always interested for people to share some pictures by creating a "make" on this thingiverse page! (on the top right side of this page, you should see a button called "I made one")

it wont be an XL because i only have 8mm rods and i dint think they will make the span. But i will defo add it to 'i made one' and give credit where its due.

That's great! we can't wait to see your machine!

Is there X ends for Trapezoidal nut TR8 and 8mm smooth rods?

yes there is, please check this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1379066 you will find both 10mm and 8mm versions

Scalar - Upgrade Z Axis trapezoïdal screw

thanks. printing now

I have designed this to support all of these models with rubber feet. 3DMS, feel free to add it to the parts list for free printing.


T Slot M3 ultra low profile vibration damper adapter

Thanks a lot for these! we will make sure to add them on the list ;)
Thanks again!

I've just added the link to this thing under section "Upgrades from Scalar Owners"

Great, of course I will let you folks know when I design and test more add-ons.

That's great! Many thanks we love this spirit!

Hello, I am trying to built the printer but my alu profiles are 40mm, is it possible to upload the Y idler holder 10mm in rsdoc format?.
Thank you in advance.

Indeed it was missing, thanks for the feedback.
I've juste uploaded it.


I bought a 12v 270w silicone heated bed, connected it to D8 on my ramps. Tempsensor i reading the right room temp, but when i try to adjust my heat bed temp, nothing happens. What could be the problem???

Check that a led is switched ON.
If not the power transistor might be dead.
It happens sometimes if we short circuit it or if we don't place any heatsink over the transistor and it overheats.

To check that the transistor is dead, take a multimeter and use the conductivity option .
Remove the heatbed from D8.
If the 2 output pins of D8 are conducting electricity, then your transistor might be dead and you will have to replace it.

Also check that your firmware is properly configured to use Heatbed (but you might already have checked that)

For this kind of power (12V) you may also need to use a 60A DC-DC solid state relay to protect and prevent your power transistor from overheating.

Where are the square holders?

Hi Anthony,

We recommand the use of metalic square holders (this is what we provide with the kits)
Here is 3 different square holders designs that can be used with 3030 extrusion profiles.

Do not hesitate if you have any other question.
Have a good day

Flat Square Holder For 3030 aluminum Extrusions
3030 Square Holder compatible with 3030 aluminum extrusions
3DMS - Square Holder for 3030 aluminum extrusions

Hi, I can't find the STL files for:

I could find the Y_Axis_LM10UU_Holder but i can't find the Y_Axis_LM10UU_Holder_End_stop_limit.
So right now you might have to take Y_Axis_LM10UU_Holder and update it a little bit to add the end stop screw holder.

I got a Jhead E3dv6 clone from Aliexpress on my Scalar. Works fine but seems to be way off on the temp. Wich thermistor do I use in the firmware?

It really depends wich thermistor model was provided with this clone.
if you are using 3950 1% 100K thermistor you can use table #11
E3D official thermistor is using table #5
AllInone Hot ends are using table #13

Could you pls update the assembly of the heatbed, you just show how to mount the wooden plate, but how to assembly the alu plate and the heatbed.

Thanks for this feedback, indeed it's hidden somewhere on our documentation.
here it is:

Please note that it hasn't been updated yet and that you need to skip the part with the insulation if you plan to use temperature above 90°C.
If you still plan to use insulator, make sure they can wistand 110°C.

On our side we completely removed the insulator and are using simple sheet of food aluminum, placed right below the silicone element.
We are also placing 1 sheet on the wood plate to maximum the reflection od InfraRed emission.

We are also using some small aluminum squares on the side of the bed to allow 1Cm or Air gap between the wood plate and the Silicon heater.

With this system we are able to decrease by about 30seconds the time needed to reach 110°C. This time is now around 2min 30sec.

Does this help?

yes it helped thx :)

Hmmm... Cant get the stepper motors to turn. Is the wires on the motors from your shop suitable for ramps 1.4 and polulu drivers???

Now Im having some problems with the probe. Cant seem to get it to stop the z-axis. Light is working as it get to the bed. Brown wire is connected to the 12v+, black and blue to the z-end stop terminal. Do I have to add the resistors? I forgot about that...

Yes of course you need to add the resistors! otherwise you can damage the arduino inputs! they are limited to +5V max and if you forget the resistors you will provide much more than +5V.

Here is the wiring diagram for the probe: http://doc.3dmodularsystems.com/lj12a3-4-zbx-inductive-probe-wiring/

What version of firmware are you using? the one we provide? or the one from marlin git hub?

Thought so. No damage done:) Im using the one You provide. Is the git hub more suitable?

the one we provide is already configured so you should struggle with it and the probe is already setup to work.

Yes they are compatible. We are using Ramps + A4988 stepper drivers with those motors.
I've also a machine using Drv8824 drivers and they are running well.

What model of drivers are you using?
Did you adjust the Current on the drivers already?

Did you switch on your electronics without any motors attached? The stepper are very sensible to being used without any motors attached and it's very easy to fry them.

Also if the current is too low the motors won't turn.

Does this help?

I fixed it. I got some bent pins on my board...

Ok thanks for the feedbacks! It's reassuring that they are working fine as i tested them just before sending them, i was getting worried ^^

Why the strange filenames on the zip file? Seens like a HASH of the file, and we need open everyone to check.

It's generated by Thingiverse automatically i guess when you download all the parts.
On my side i only uploaded single files, no zip that i remember.

Thanks for the fastest reply, your project is awesome. Congrats!

I got a 4mm alu plate for my 435x320 bed. Is this s problem? Little bit conserned about the weight...

If you have got the proper stepper motors and a some nice smooth rods and bearings it should do.

You might also consider using 10mm 435mm smooth rods instead of 8mm. and also LM10UU instead of LM8UU.
I thinki i already provide the 10mm version of the y axis smooth rod holders so it shoul be easy for your to switch to 10mm smooth rods.

Does this help?

Got stepper motors from your shop on the way, so I presume this is the proper motors;) Bed is super smooth so I guess its not gonna be a problem:) Thank you for quick reply:)

It's always a pleasure!

where will i get the board for it

Can you clarify your questions? what board?

the motherboard from which the printer runs and what will be the total cost of the aluminium parts with the hot end

You can get all this on our web store:

The controler is Arduino Mega 2560 R3
The daughter board is Ramps 1.4
The stepper drivers are A4988 but you can also use DRV8825
the aluminum extrusions are 3030, depending on the printer model the sizes of each will vary.
And the hotend you can use whatever you think is best.
On the plastic supports we currently support:
E3D V6
Prometheus V1.1

But if you already have a favorite hotend you cancreate your own hot end holder of course and configure the firmware accordingly.

About the cost it depends where you buy the parts and where you are located for possible additional shipping cost and custom fees.

About the heatbed you can either source it on your side using standard MK2 / MK3 heatbeds.
you can also use the one we propose with silicone heaters.
Depending on the printer model here the heatbed are different and so is the cost.

i want it for scalar xl so what will be the approximate price for all and shipping to india ? leaving the 3d printed parts because i have one and want to build one and i dont want stepper motors

honestly if you aren’t truly dedicated to tracking down every little piece you will need for the kit then just buy it from 3dmodular. I pieced it together the aluminum alone was only available from 80/20 and for everything needed including the braces and t-nuts it was right around $120. the other major thing were the linear rods. cost around another $120 just for those 6 rods.. heated bed was another $75. all said and done i was right around $800 US. with around 2 months of waiting on parts from china and who knows where else.

800$ to much you could buy an new printer from that

i challenge you to find a printer with a large volume for that price. i ended up with 15x18x12in build space after changing a few small things. let me know when you find a printer that can do over 15in for less then $1200. i also got all my printed parts free and the stepper motors were only $50 of the cost. I also didn’t have to pay for the big thick piece of aluminum for the bed.

well i have wanhao d5s which print voloume is 335mmx240x200 mm i got it for 1000$

i was just asking the price of aluminium extrusion thats it what i want

i want to build a printer i wan to know about it coz i study in 9th grade

so just take it friendly

yes they are 625ZZ.
It's not written because we provide the parts already assembled with those bearings.

Hello again!
After a TON of software work, and some hardware tweaks, my machine is running well!
I am operating my unit with a Printrboard ver. F5 with custom assembly code written in C++.

A word of warning for those planning their builds similar to mine, I print directly on my primary aluminum plate (about 5 KG/11 LBS),
it is likely you will want to employ a probing system that can account for the plane of the bed. This simplifies everything for a fixed one piece bed design. Also, due to the sheer mass of my bed, the Y-axis current adjustment has a very fine line between over-draw and under-draw, and step skipping, but this would only need consideration for the extra large use of this platform.

I would consider using two Y drivers in parallel on a build this size. Belt/tooth skipping has not been a problem in testing or operation.

One last note, I would suggest creating a .STL file that contains all components in a ready to print fashion, given, this is will likely consume more x/y surface area than available for most people, but it would greatly lessen the confusion and questions about components. Potentially, group all of the 10mm structural together, etc.


its me again.
At the top z mount theres a part missing, the one in the video looks different then the 2 are uploaded here, the guide for the rod is missing.
could you pls update the files? :)

Indeed, we removed it because if you are using simple M8 threaded rod you will generate wooble.
At first it seems a good idea but M8 threaded rods are never really straight. If you are using Trapezoidal screw however it can have some meaning.
Adding a constraint at the top of a curved threaded rod will cause a nasty finish on the shell of your prints.(wooble effect).

Leaving them free, reduces/cancel this effect, that's why we removed this part from this printer.
Does this make any sens?

How is the angled extruder support V2 suppose to be mounted?

It should be mounted the same as the normal one. The angle should allow the fillament to come inside the extruder more naturally.
Check this thing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1158782
you should have some pictures to help you figure out how to mount it.

Scalar - Extruder Holder improvement

Thank you! Appreciate your quick respons:)

Why does not 608ZZ bearings fit the Budha for the extruder? Is this made for 625ZZ?

you should maybe use the directDrive model.
The budha was designed to use M6 screws with concrete ankles instead of MK8 gear drive.

What is this: "a few (at least 20)2.5x100mm colson/rilsan/trap nylon collars" ??

Hi rio83,

You can find it on our website for example : http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/misc/14-lot-de-100-serre-cable-blanc-nylon-25x100mm.html

Does it answer your question ?

Hehehe.. all good :)

first, you made a pretty well work, it looks very nice :)
but ive got a question.
Is there a 3d file of the complete printer, i want to look what printed parts i need and how often?
or is there a BOM existing ?
mfg Stefan

We have just added the file you needed in think: PlasticPartBOM.pdf
it's a list of plastic part to print for either M or XL model. Is it what you needed?

HeyHo :)
yes thanks, thats what im searching for :)))

RIght now we have no such thing.
However you can look through the assembly manual and you should find what you are looking for:

ola buenas,

hello good, thank you for your project, very good!

a question, I can put the pieces of plastic car X to smooth rosacadas rods, my Prussian i3,?

the car is compatible with the Prussian i3 supports ?, as support for mk8-- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:835475

You might use it in your car?

thank you

Mk8 Extruder mount for Prusa i3 Rework

I guess it's not compatible, as no X carriage have standard hole location.
But you can take the original cad file (.rsdoc) and change the hole location based on your support.
The program to use is DesignSPark mecanical from radiospares, (it's free software)

Comments deleted.

Hey guys, I am almost done with my machine. I did put up a basic picture. I can include full specifications at a later point.
As a note, I did have a little trouble with the E3D carrier, I did have to use some heat and elbow grease to get it to work, otherwise everything else should work fine. The only real difference I will have between the normal or XL size design is going to be Y-axis acceleration, that will be addressed when I have everything wired up, control software compiled and flashed, then I'll go from there.

Indeed we are very interested by the changes you have made!

Hi guys, wow what a great design, I can print all these on my existing 3d printer, is there a list of other (Non 3d printed parts) that will be required e.g. metal hardware, screws etc... can't see it on the web site :(

I've made one in the description.

thank you guys, still in awe of this, amazing, maybe you could post in the description where we can donate to you, I would and will be :)

We really enjoy that you like th design.
Here is a Paypal link for donation: https://www.paypal.me/3DMS

Also i think that people will also we amazed to see a picture of your own assembled printer!

do you recognized this x-axis endstop? is this an improvement?

P3steel 2.x - X-axis endstop mount
by toolson

You can try it, but i feel like it will not be compatible with scalar X carriage and hot end holders
You might have some issues with the inductor probe wires and so on. But it's worth a try as this part is small to print.
You might also check the size between the smooth rods, it might not be the same.

the z-axis holder in the thing-files looks different than in the video.
does it matter? or is one missing?

the one in the things file is better it prevents from woobles

ok, thanks a lot for reply. i will take this one from the thing-files here.

as i am building the plastic parts: what is the difference between =motor-support left/right= and
looks equal to me, do i need all?

hi, great project. started to build one. in 8mm rods. is the Y_Axis_Idler_Holder_10mm.stl the same for 8mm rods? or is the 8mm version missing? great thanks for your contribution.

I like to build things especially 3D printers but I am not good with code. What micro controller should I get and how do I program it?

Try by using Arduino Mega as main microcontroleur board ( http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/eletronic-boards/43-arduino-mega-2560-r3.html)
You can then use standard Ramps1.4 as daughter board.( http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/electronic/44-shield-ramps-14.html)
For motor drivers you have a lot of choices, the mostly used/known are
A4988 (http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/eletronic-components/24-a4988-stepstick-motor-driver.html)
and DRV8825 (http://3dmodularsystems.com/en/electronic/25-drv8825-stepper-motor-driver.html)

For 8 bit microcontroleurs using stepper drivers with microstepping higher than 32 won't work.
You will need to use 32 bits microcontroleurs (ex: Arduino Due) and a compatible shield to use them.

For the firmware, you can look at marlin firmware (https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin)
To program the arduino, you will need to install Arduino IDE first (https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software).

Then download marlin firmware.
Load file marlin.ino from arduino IDE.
you will need to configure some settings inside configuration.h file which vary from machine to machine.
On this you will find a lot of youtube videos and a lot of help using google.

You will then need to select the board type you want to program, and the comunication port, and then upload the arduino sketch to the arduino board.
THen you are all set.

Nice project!
I'm going to do this project with slightly different measures and the replacement of smooth bars ( x ) instead of linear guides ; )

I thought I was the only one to use aluminum profiles 30x30 instead ; D


Hi, I can't seem to find the spool holder part anywhere?
Could you upload Please? Thanks!

I've just uploaded it! Enjoy!

Hey there,
Awesome platform design! I am about 95% through with my build, I overscaled everything (build area for around 15"x18"x18"H) from the XL platform. It looks like I will have to find a Y axis idler though, I do not see one in this collection. I will post pictures soon!

Sorry indeed it was missing.
I've just uploaded it : Y_Axis_Idler_Holder_10mm.stl
I'm eager to see the picture!
If you make a plate too large you might have some troubles with the belt.
The longer the belt, the more likely it will slip on the pulley. To avoid that you might need some washing machine dampers or something else.
We have some funny solution already for that purpose that we plan to release very soon.

update: I've just converted the inches to cm and it should be OK without any dampers. I thought it was the double as this (wich is possible with dampers )

Great! This will do much better, thank you!

Please tell me if you find some other missing parts.

The only component I could use in addition, would be the pictured power supply housing. I will make some modifications to fit my monitoring components, and add a physical switch in the place of the solid state relay.

The PSU housing is located here:

Scalar - Power supply set

I suppose you can use the X axis idler insert with an m3 bolt to a support structure? I'll try that.

I believe the stretch support is missing from the things files. Im slowly starting to piece together all of the parts to make a XL and the extrusion frame is great to work with.

Hi, sorry about that!
i've just uploaded it : Y_Axis_Idler_Holder_10mm.stl

thanks! so noticed the bed plate had decreased to 400x300x350. Is there a way to maintain a 400x400 print bed with the frame design and bed mounts as built in the instructions?

For this, to keep the stability, you might need to increase the depth of the printer frame. Switching from 400mm extrusion profile to 500 or 600mm. Otherwise the LM8UU bearings supporting the heatbed will need to be positioned too close to the center of the bed decreasing it's stability.

Can you please upload the 10mm rod supports for the bed. Edit: now that i take another look only the x-axis was 10mm.

I've just uploaded them.
Know however that we only tested with the 8mm ones!
Have fun!

On this version yes, only the X axis is 10mm, For the other axis 8mm is enougth but yes i can upload them

Just curious as to why the carriage is 10 and not the bed as the bed has significantly more weight. I may have to look into that more after its running to see how it acts.

On the XL the heatbed is only moving on a very small length and the 8mm rods seems enougth for this.
On the X axis the hot end is moving over twice the length and the 10mm rods keeps the hot end moving straigth.
On our concept we also look to reduce the cost of the printer, and we want to be able to move from the M model to the XL model and keep the maximum amount of parts.

printed the hot end holder and noticed that the 8mm approach sensor is a lot larger then the 5mm. i can’t seem to find a way to expand just the hole. Is there a way i could get a file to modify. The diameter of head is 18mm on the 8mm approach sensor.

Which hot end did you print? E3D? AllInOne? AluHotEnd?
I'll publish the rsdoc for the one you need.

just remember that the holders where in there own things with the rsdoc provided. Thanks for all the help! using the e3d volcano so i can switch between .4-1.2mm for increased print times.

On our side we have already tested the volcano up to 1.0 mm.
It's quite nice for fast printing using slow moves.
The finish stay a little bit gross however, but that's the price for large nozzle i guess.

Please share some pictures of your machine once it's up and running !
Even the change for your probe model would be usefull for others i guess.

Everything is together and looking good. Trying to figure out some kinks in marlin to get a test print going. one question. How did you wire the z probe? I tried using a 5v source so it wouldn’t hurt the board but thinking i need to use a 12v and resistors like others have suggested. I will upload pictures before to long. Final size is 455x380x340H

Yes we did the resistor thing to make it work. we mainly applied this schematic with exactly the same resistor values.

You get an output voltage between 3.3V and 5V which is what we want if you are using a 12V input.
The output voltage will slightly fluctuate depending on the stability of the 12V input.
I say this because depending on the load, the standard 12V PSU will drop when reaching full PSU load.
For example, if you are powering the heatbed with the main PSU, you will experience a voltage drop due to High current , wire length and PSU natural voltage drop. This will result in a voltage drop on the output signal of the probe as well.

This said, on the field the probe is working very fine.
We tested it on both our 3D printers models

The Scalar M which is using it's 360W PSu to power both heatbed and hotend+electronics (we should be close to 220W+90W => 310W)
The Scalar XL with the same 360W PSU powering only the Hotend + electronics (the 700W heatbed is directly powered from the 220V power grid, that reduces the load on the PSU and requiring a smaller PSU)

As we often probe the heatbed when already hot, the voltage drop fluctuates during probing because the heatbed might need to be powered on/Off during the whole probing time.

You can also use an optocoupler bread board (witch might be a better idea in my opinion be requires an additional bread board) if you want to avoid soldering resistors.

We also recently found out the Omron EE-SPY402 sensor, that is a differential IR sensor.
We haven't tested it yet but it seems very easy to use as it's 5V compatible an can sense about the same height as the inductive probe. The component is more expansive however (can be found between 8-10$)
I think it might be a future improvement for us in a near future.

We are very exited to see pictures of your machine and possible changes/improvements you made on it!
If you are interested we recently opened a dedicated forum :
With a dedicated topic about people's Machines/improvements/support and so on.

(I've just posted a new post about wiring the inductor probe here: http://3dmodularsystems.boards.net/thread/38/lj12a3-bx-inductive-probe-wiring )

Thanks a lot! Got homing working correctly now to get thermistor values to read correctly. should be printing before long.

Im stuped? For XL: Wood plate - 435x320mm But base - 2x40cm and 2x60cm! I dt understand: HOW IT PLACE IN THIS BASE?!

Yes wood plate is 435x320mm.
Overall base is indeed 600x460mm.
You will find assembly instructions here:
Have a look and if we need to add some details we will!
Right now we are still missing a few videos, but the documentation with pictures seems to be enough for assembling it.

Pls, add "Bill of materials" in instruction page?

Sure we will prepare something

How does this model handle flexible filaments?

We have never tried, and from what we could see on internet it requires a motor mounted directly over the hotend. Which in this case isn't the case ^^.

About the Semi metal hotend it has a hot end support for AluHotEnd (semi metal hot end) which is supposed to support flexible filament.

Hello, Yes sorry ill update the missing part during this week.

Z axis part should be somewhere ??

I've just posted them and some missing X axis models


Could you be so kind as to put the cad files ( obj; step; 123dx) on here? I have 40mm extruded aluminium and would like to alter the parts to fit.

with kind regards,


Right now we are busy launching those printers, and finalising the plastic parts (we are still making some changes right now)
We will provide the CAD files later on when everything is more settled on our side.
We started to release some CAD files for other models yet, and planing to continue.

I hope it helps in some way.

Thanks for the quick reply ;)
I saw that you guys had a site where you sell them, but it wasn't clear to me as to when you guys where ready to ship them.
Sorry to hear 'Kickstarter' didn't work out for you...
I think the price for the XL is commercially interesting enough. So when you guys start making them boxed, as I've read you are planning, I'll be ordering myself one!!

With kind regards,


Hello Tom!
About the kickstarter it was a good experience, so no regrets!
We will still be able to ship by September as our kickstarter planing.
Thanks for your interest on the XL model, the boxing process will be starting end of September after we start shipping our first printers.
An the 3D models will continue to be posted and updated meanwhile.

Have a great printing experience and a great day
3D Modular Systems.