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Viking House

by dutchmogul May 13, 2013
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Having some issues about 13 layers above the cut in the roof. Two failed builds at 0.3mm layers with 3 outer perimeters and 20% fill. Freecad identified and fixed STL issues which I'm hoping will solve it.

house walls don't print out fully its missing the whole top ring, it shows its not right in the pics, would love to try again when its fixed

I thought that. Now turn the 'walls' upside down.

Shows what in the print now? The top tier is there, it’s just below the outcropping of the roof.

Very nice model. I'm printing it now on CEL Robox. I have not had any issues with curling so far.

May I ask how you create these STL files? And in what application? The textures are really impressive and I would love to learn how to do this. You can see some people are monetizing their efforts but just the STL creation seems like a fun hobby!


You wouldn't happen to know the scaling % for 30 mm bases would you?

Should be the same. There isn't really a strongly definitive distinction between "28mm" and "30mm" in miniature scales. A lot of companies seem to use those terms interchangeably, making hero models in the slightly larger scale, but the choice of a 25mm (or inch) base and a 30mm base tends to be totally arbitrary. In any case, I've never seen terrain that was specific to one or the other, so you should be good.

I'm producing a lot of devonjones' open forge pieces and one of the issues I noticed was that his 1 inch wide corridors didn't fit my guys. So I had to scale them up to 120%. I just want to keep everything uniform. lol

I noticed your comment on one of the makes suggested 167% for 1 inch, I can easily just increase it to that, then to 120% again. But I tend to use scaling numbers in my file names and I can't math tonight. lol

Wait... I am so out of it tonight... I just realized scaling 15mm to 30mm is simply 200%...

This is a lovely 3D-model! Thanks for sharing this. By the way... what did you use to achieve the nice surface patina?

Hey, thank you! You're very welcome.

So, first I printed the model at a .3 layer height. This both took far less time than my usual .1 and gave a good texture. Using acrylic model paints, I painted the house a dark brown, then applied a drybrush of a lighter brown. Its really quite simple, you just need to get a feel for the process.

Thanks for the quick response. Your lovely viking house is being 3D printed right now here and I will give the paint a good try.

We specially like your house since we are in Scandinavia... ;)

Oh, of course! Very cool. I'm on an unstoppable Viking Age/Norse Mythology kick right now, and one of my projects is an entire village. I'm glad you like the house! I'd love to see some pics, and let me know if you can get it to print without curling. I'm still struggling with that a bit on this particular design.

Aside from the spider house, did you ever make more buildings?

Printed this at a 28mm scale. I added a raft and it stopped the curling.

How did you print it at 28mm scale? Did you just double the size?

Dude! Pics, pics! I'd love to see it.

try the "ears" on the corners method to stop curling.

nice looking model!
i like the removable top.

Thanks, Perry! I suppose they could just be clipped off after its printed. Going to give it a go now....

I have not used them much but i saw a blog about the ears being
a feature of makerware. And also saw them in other comments
(i believe pretty small things mentioned them in one of her models)

They are actually pretty sweet. On the mac side, they are in the File->Examples->Helper Disk menu. You add one to the plate (using the menu) and it pops on at 'ground level'. Just select it, copy and paste, and drag to the right locations.

They are thick enough to stick well, but thin enough to break off easily. I'm actually using them now with rafting on some tall thin models I'm working on. (with rafting, the disks don't even have to touch the model)

Sweet! Love the tree!

Thanks! Yeah, I felt like it needed just a little something.