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HBP Heated build plate for the Makerbot Replicator 2 & 2X - Makes your Replicator a real tool!

by MakerKar Jun 16, 2015
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Is this compatible with a 24V ramps setup?

For detailed questions please sent us an email.

Which connector are you using for connecting the two red wires to the board? Thanks!

Hello, please send a picture to info@ide-3d.de i will check what you mean.

Is the build plate regular glass???

Hello, no regular glass would most probably crack.

So i guess you are using borosilicate glass?

Hi, I just replied to your mail. It's from a German glass manufacturer. We just have them the requirements they have and they offered us the glass that fits for that.
Cheers Karsten

Where can I buy the better power supply for my Makerbot Replicator 2? I have the 6.25A but would like to get the 9.2A that you recommend.

I am located in the US, so if possible I would like to buy the heated bed kit plus the adapter so they are all shipped together.

Hi, did you receive my reply?

Hello, just write me a short email to info@ide-3D.de we have the power supply in stock as well.

Thanks, will do!

Comments deleted.

I bought one of these a few weeks ago. For the most part, it works great on my Replicator 2. Installation was simple and the stock power supply handles it fine. It's already hard to imagine ever having printed on the acrylic plate that came with the printer, which was never sufficiently flat, and never had adequate adhesion, for reliably building objects that covered the entire plate. This heated plate has effectively doubled the usable volume of the printer.

The only problems I've run into are with the glass build surface. First, I cannot seem to get any hairspray coatings to stick to the glass for more than a couple prints. Even after waiting for it to fully cool before removing prints, the hairspray seems to stick better to the print than to the glass. And without a hairspray coating, the glass doesn't work.

Second, the glass attaches to the aluminum plate via magnets, but due to a discrepancy in thermal expansion between the glass and aluminum, some wiggle room was left around the magnets. This allows the plate to slide slightly, which means if it's nudged during a print (for instance, if an imperfection in the print causes the nozzle to graze the previous layer), the glass will slide, and the print will have a fault line.

I tried to solve this in a few ways: First I tried adding a tiny plastic ring around the magnets to act as a spacer. This worked very well, but after a day or two, I noticed bubbles appearing in the glue holding the magnets to the glass. Alarmed that they were being pried off of the glass, I switched to a rubber clip that could be attached to the edge of the glass which prevented it from sliding without applying significant force to it. More bubbles continued appearing beneath the magnets.

I'm currently using a build plate made of a few sheets of laminated color-core formica which is clipped to the aluminum plate. Unlike the glass, it works very well even after the hairspray coating is pulled off (not sure why. Maybe it's porous enough to retain some of the hairspray in micro fissures on the surface?), is flexible enough that even large, flat prints are easy to move, and I don't worry about breaking it if I drop it.

Anyway, long story short: I wasn't impressed by the glass build surface, which is very flat, but otherwise doesn't seem ideal for printing (I'm using PLA), but the heated aluminum plate is a godsend, and allows for easy experimentation with different build surfaces.

Ive got the same setup and have no problems with hairspray on the glass.. For best results, when bed levelling..get it to .05mm between the glass and nozzle.. So your squashing the first layer into the glass.. Im able to get super fine prints..
I got the Z plate replacement as well and poly bushes..never really have to bother with bed levelling after that..
Got my mods from IDE in Germany.. Good bloke to deal with..

how thick is the alluminium plate?

Hi, that depends on which point you are measuring :) why do you want to know?

If i have a Makerbot Replicator 2, not a 2X, do i need to purchase a separate power supply?


Hi, in fact you do not need another power supply, our heater is very energy efficient and can be handled by the stock power supply of the rep 2. about 9 od 10 users do need the stock power supply. Although it has a benefit if you decide to upgrade the power supply: the preheat time is shorter . so it is more a question of comfort.

Can you please send me info on purchasing the hbp for rep2? chico107mic@gmail.com. Thanks!

Thank you very much for your quick reply! I purchased one. Looking forward to seeing it!

Hi, wich software allows you to recognize the heating bed?

Sorry for this very late reply, thingiverse did not notify me. In fact you can do it with maker ware, you either have to make a custom profile or tell your software that you have a 2X

Hello, it works with Makerbot desktop (i would prefer the 2.4 Makerware) - you just can choose the 2X Profile or with Simplify 3D for excample what is really great in my opinion.

Hello, after installation my cooling fan for filament doesnt work. Is this why you are suggesting 2.4 Makerware?

Hello, this has nothing to do with the installation, it is cause you use the standard Replicator 2X profile and the 2X has no filament fan. You can contact me over email and i can send you the custom profile. By the way its always better to contact me over email, its pure luck that i read this here so soon after your question ;)

Thank you so much for your fast answer. You really help me al lot!