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Case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

by wersy May 11, 2013
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Very good design work, thanks. Tolerances are just as they should be, IMHO.

Thank you I am glad you like it.

Comments deleted.

Hey sorry if my remix offended you. It is deleted now. Fyi, your button is too thick and had to be dremeled to fit.

I welcome your mount as a remix. It was not necessary to delete it entirely. It would have been enough to just remove the casing.

I Intentionally designed the knob to fit a bit tight to avoid wobbling and have clean guideways because the knob is short.
Instead of dremel it is easier to scale it slightly down in slicer.

The button only required a small bit of sanding to fit the case. Otoh, the depth required dremelling about 2mm off the bottom to clear the switch post on my lcd board. I almost broke my switch the first time I assembled the case, and dremelling wasn't trivial since the flange had to be preserved. Not sure if it is just the cheap clone I bought that may have a longer than normal switch post, but I wanted to bring it to your attention. Of course scaling z would not fix it... punching a recess in the bottom of the button might.

Meh, the brackets are a trivial design anyways... they won't be missed by anyone. FWIW, I only included the case with holes since generating that model was a trivial task after I placed cylinders to cut my brackets in cad. So I just exported and included it with my remix. That said, there are many other remixes with just holes added that are very useful. For example Leo N's front and back a8 braces. A guy could just drill holes to mount to an enclosure, but printing with holes is much more robust.

Great design.

Whats the spacer for? How do you attach to the mount and clamp?

Anyone have pics of these?

In "Instructions" I wrote: And yes, don't forget to assemble the distance cylinders - the display's board won't like it ;-)
That means if you fasten the board to tight without spacers you will damage it.
The clamp has two holes. The lower case has holes in same distance. So drill off the holes you need, put M3 nuts inside the pokets and mout the clamp with two screws.

Great case. Fits together perfectly, is very slender, and looks great in two-tone!

Thank you.
Did you print one? Can you share it to see the colors you used?

knob does not fit, the kill button is too close to the button. when the case snapped in, the button does not work at all. may I have the editable file please? I also want to modify to the bottom to mount to the Anet. Thank you

I had to file down the flange on the button and I used a dremel with a grinding cylinder and drill press to remove a few layers from the top half's interface to the flange.
It would have been a lot easier if I had just made a new button on openSCAD instead! :-D

Maybe it would have been even more easier if you just skaled it down in your slicer.

Almost. The button was a tight fit for the hole already because my printer has z-waver, so the x/y scale would have been the perfect solution. But the flange and the mating surface on the case would be slightly more difficult to scale correctly in the Z axis.
But when I got that satisfying click after sanding, filling, and Dremel machining, it was kind of worth it... But it would have been easier just to make another button myself in openSCAD. ;) Instead of demanding that you release "the step files."

It is very easy in Fusion 360 to import an STL file then convert it is a solid body you can edit. If you do this be sure and publish the STEP files

Sorry, in general I don't share source files.
You can try to file down the the base of the kill button or scale it down in z direction.
The bottom case, with the many nut pockets, gives you a lot of possibilities to srew a special mount for your Anet.
What's wrong with the knob?

could i have the step files please?

I am sorry, in principle I don't share source files.

dose anyone have any pics of the case with lcd completed and mounted onto the printer?

Nice case. I remixed it to meet my needs. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2276045 Note that some variants of the RRDiscount Full Graphic Smart controller don't fit without some changes. The panic button on mine is pretty high so I had to carve out a section of the button plunger to make room. The shaft on the rotating selector/switch isn't a D-shaft so I had to rework the knob.

Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller Case

I don't quite understand how the LCD display is attached to the case. Can you post a video, or a more detailed instruction list?

The LCD is soldered onto the board. You can't place the board wrong. The plugs are in line to the openings of the bottom case.
The board fits rather tight in the case, so you don't even need to fasten it with srews.
It is quite easy, just print it and you will see.

So you place the cylinders in the gap between the board and display and screw it in to the bottom part first, then screw in the top part. So you would screw through part with the screw nut deepenings to mount the case?

Yes, that's right.
And as I described:
"The second bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps".

Tried this one and it sliced very fast and smootly. I then printed the backside of the case. Everything, all the holes and standoffs fit perfectly. But my SD card slot is on the left side of the display, whereby the printed parts have the opening for the SD card slot on the right side of the display. So maybe there are 2 different designs, or they changed it. I can file that small slot out later, so it wont really stop me using it.

Hallo Micha! Ich probier mich gerade mal an deinem Case. Schönen Gruß! Marcel

Hallo Marcel,
die Aussparung für den SD-Schlitz ist beim Unterteil auch links.
Hast Du versehentlich gespiegelt?
Viel Spaß

Yes it´s my fault, I mirrored the part :-)

Micha, Du hast es natürlich erfasst! Habe mit meinen ungeschickten Fingern das Teil aus Versehen gespiegelt... Alles andere passt aber trotzdem.

Zum Glück ist es symmetrisch :-)

This is the first thing I've ever printed. It turned out perfectly. Two halves snap together and all holes line up perfectly.

Nice that you were successfully printing this case and everything fits straightaway.

Created a bigger knob for the controller here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058910

Knob for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller

Thanks for this. Looks great! :)

Thank you!
Did you print it?

Thanks a lot!!! Wonderful thing!

Thank you, I am glad you like it.

It would not look very nice if the case is glued together. But if you still want it, you can use netfabb to split every stl by yourself.

Is there any files of this split into pieces to print on smaller printers?

Your printer is muchg bigger than mine.

Thanks for design close to fit for my LCD http://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale-3D-Printer-Parts-RAMPS-1-4-LCD-12864-Smart-screen-Controller-Panel-Display-Monitor/32550988155.html

I get 2 issues --> big one the support for kill button on top case was far to deep i had to remove at least 2 or 3mm to be able to use the kill button because without sanding button was "push on" every time.

hole for stick is not perfecly center ( 1mm left and top to much )

Rest is nice thanks a lot....

Hi, Wersy,

Thanks for this great design!
Had one question; Why would you make the screw holes in a 5 point way (in the bottom part)?
Is that better for screwing?

I am sorry, I don't no really know what you mean.
There are each 4 holes to screw the pcb and the upper part.

Other than on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79820
The 5th hole on this case is important to stabilize the pcb at the sensitive area where the knobs indicate the most pressure to it.

Case for Reprapdiscount Smart LCD Controller XXL
by wersy

He wants to know why the holes for the screw bosses are a pentagon shape and not just round holes.

You can put nuts into the hexagon pockets. So you are able to fasten screws from outside without the help of a wrench. Furthermore, you can mount and dismount the case without opening it.

Great design - thank you!

Would you mind to post the source files so that it easier to remix it for even more use cases? STL re-mixes are not that useful.

Thank you for considering,

Similar case OpenSCAD source can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:397716

Full Graphic Smart Controller Box for Prusa i3

Sorry, don't take it amiss but generally I don't share source files.


That you undermine one of the base ideas of the reprap community is clear to you?

I'm sorry, but that means I will not use this anymore.


You should use it if you like it - but not make it conditional on getting source files ;-)
A lot of made remixes shows that there are no problems using stl files.
BTW, I doubt that you could use my source files in any way.

3D printing is made possible by the open source movement. I am an engineer with many patents; however, my patents are licensed free to small businesses- no major corporations. Wersy, I don't understand why you wouldn't share your files. kdupke: I will design you an .stl file for anything you need, or anyone for that matter. I will not charge. I believe 3D printing will change the world faster than ever before, faster than the industrial revolution or the invention of the internet. A gifted mind equipped with a 3D printer, the possibilities are endless for progression and innovation.

The case fits perfectly! Th only issue i had was the knob. Even sending the file for repair still comes back as non manifold and slicer doesn't seem to like it. Not sure what the case clamp is for either.

"Kilrah" repaired the knob with netfabb. If you still have problems you may download it from him: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:369891
I mentioned the use of the case clamp in the "Instruction": "The second bottom part contains several screw nut deepenings for fastening the case as you like. If you mount it to an 8 mm rod you can use the case clamps".

K8200 mount for Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller
by Kilrah

I picked up a FGD from RRD and wanted to print out this slick case. But I noticed that I could not get it to close well. Also, the spacers were about 1.75mm too short to be of any good. It seems that the spacing between the LCD board and the main board has increased by about 1.75mm---at least in the version I got from them. This is an official unit from RRD.
This is pretty easy to fix on my end (just need to extend the size of the lid) but just wanted everyone to be aware that there is a mismatch in size with recent FGDs from RRD.
If you just got a FGD and want to build this case, make sure you measure the distance between the LCD board and the main board with a caliper. If your distance is around 4.5-4.6mm, then you will have some problems getting the case to fit.

I am sorry that you can't use this case.
Because you mentioned the spacer to be to short, I controlled it and I noticed that the hole is to small. It is because I just uploaded the spacer for M2 screws which is destined for the XXL-Case. Now I uploaded the spacer for M3 screws. The height ist still the same: 3 mm.
I wonder that nobody mentioned this before. I guess no one use them - even I don't ;-)

Oh, I actually am using this case! And I love it, thank you so much for making it!
I just had to use OpenSCAD to make it a little bigger, that's all. Works great now!

Great, I am glad you like it and you could make the changes so you can finally use it. Have fun.

Thank you very much for sharing this!
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Everything should fit. There are different full graphic displays. Anyway, Reprapdiscount didn't changed the design. Where did you get it from?

oh, i have the right one (from RRD) and it basically fits but when i settle the top part on the display and if the displays black border and the top part align (like on your picture above) the shaft of the encoder is around half inside the case including that step on the shaft where the knob should sit on to be able to use the click function of the encoder. Everything else seems to fit rather well. the reset button plays well in this position, too. Additionally the shaft is out of the holes center. it is around 3mm down. Maybe they did change their design? Mine is already a bit older though not from the very early produced ones.

I am sorry. I can only say that it was printed by several friends and they all had no problems.

I wonder nobody commented on that before but the knob doesn't really fit this assembly or did i do anything wrong? Actually the case covers the edge of the rotating encoder completely so it will be hard to have a knob pressing on the edge. Maybe your knob is just printed tight enough to kinda "clamp" on the encoders shaft? Also the hole for the shaft is about 3-4mm out of center for my full gfx controller.

Can you make this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:146379http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... fit this case? I suck at CAD. Need help and a lot of people would use this.

geeetech.com full graphic smart controller board

Sorry, but I am only designing when I have the display to test the print and make sure all fits.
The "7 parts total" you already designed are great http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166376http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...
Just try to draw the case, it is not so difficult as you might think.


7 parts total


for a Prusa i3 wanting to put the display attached to the printer and saw that the display is not small where would you put it and how attacheresti without using plain bars


Sorry that I replied so late. I had some issues with my browsers so I couldn't see any comments for some weeks.
I designed a mount that could fit to a Prusa i3. I don't have any Prusa i3 available, so I can't test if it is strong enough.
The idea is to drill 4 holes in the right side of the frame and tighten it with M3 screws.

Hello Wersy!

Thank you for this case I will use it myself! Regarding the 4 holes on the right side of the I3, It can't fit in the front as it will block the X axis. At the back, the cable won't be long enough and not very usefull. At least the U made the case and I appreciate that!

Thanks again!

I designed a mount for the i3.
Do you think you can use someting like that?