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giufini

PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms

by giufini Apr 30, 2015
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exelent! thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Hello, you have not written how many details to print.

I've printed the BS joint from the other link in ABS but when I tried to Fit they just broke in one side
Used .2 mm layer 100% infill. Can someone help me? Has anyone had the same problem?

Hello IgnaCruz. Are you still experiencing this problem? If so, try to raise the extrusion temperature by about 5-10 Celsius degrees.

Hello, i have problem, i try 2 different base but same problem. maybe can sombody help, Thanks :)

When printing the first layer, the gap between the nozzle and the table should be as small as possible, good adhesion of the part to the table depends on it.

Hello Puminis, I suppose you have a not perfectly calibrated print bed. Try to manually reduce the gap between the first layer and the print bed surface.

Yeah i have the same problem on my Ender 3, i just levered my bed and tightened some bolts; and i just ignored the defects.

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Wow! this think looks like something Doc Ock would have in his lab and has practical use! This is beyond Awesome!

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Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Comments deleted.

hi, what tolerance does this have? it's a little too loose (or my printer too good), if there's a version with .05mm less tolerance I would really like to print it!

Hello, you can try to use the components "Base_Joint_coated.stl" and "BS_Joint_coated.stl". They have a slightly smaller ball to allow the application of a rubberized coating that improves the friction and the stability of the articulated arms. I suggest the use of a small piece of heat shrink wrap 7 millimetres long (0.28 inches).

Works great, thanks for sharing!
Printed it in PLA, and it came out fully functional.

Very nice design, thanks for sharing!
My 3rd hand tool has a 60mm magnifying glass and I would love to add it to my new station since I’ll be throwing out the old one. Can you add a 60mm glass holder as well?

Had the same issue, careful bending the opening, don't go to crazy and slide the lens in carefully.

how many ball and sockets to make an arm?

Hello, you typically need 20 B&S pieces to assemble an arm.

I've been having trouble printing these items with default orientation using slic3r with Prusa i3 Mk2S and PLA filament. When I have a successful print, though, PLA seems to work out just fine.

The issue appears to be the stability of the first layers. When I print BS_joint with the ball facing down, there just isn't enough surface area on the printer bed and slic3r is unable to set up sufficient supports to compensate. However, when I flip BS_joint so the socket is down and the ball is up, slic3r is able to set up a nice, stable arrangement of supports that appear to be quite reliable.

I had trouble with "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms" version of BS_joint as well so I returned to this original version and began experimenting with orientation. How that I have the original one working nicely, I will experiment with the "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms" and see if I can improve printing reliability for my software/printer setup.

Hello surdumil,

I wish to inform you that I have published a new set of pieces and accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

It has been specifically designed to get better results from Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printers, so avoiding many common issues caused by this technology. The new toolset also include an improved "Ball & Socket Joint", so I guess that this will help you and in any case I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hi, nice design.

I've tried printing this design but it failed because it was all way to lose. So i decided to design my own which worked out but now after a week ar two they won't stay up anymore. Do you have any tips and tricks on how to fix that or on how to fix your design?
Edit: I used PLA, would it be better if i used ABS?

thanks

Hello Paul,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

It has been specifically designed to get better results from Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printers, so avoiding many common issues caused by this technology. The new toolset also include an improved "Ball & Socket Joint", so I guess that this will help you ;-)

I print all my kits using Zortrax filaments: Z-HIPS (for the base platform), Z-ULTRAT and Z-ABS (for the articulated arms and the other parts). In particular, the Z-ULTRAT material is very stiff, so it is perfect to make the ball and socket joints.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hi Giuseppe,

I have tried to print this model with abs(which is still annoying for me to do) but since i only have Slic3r i wasn't able to properly generate support. I'll keep on tinkering but any input would be nice.

Thanks

Hi Paul,

have you ever tried ideaMaker 3D slicing software? https://www.raise3d.com/pages/ideamaker
It is free and very powerful so you can try it in order to properly generate support structures. Let me know...

Hi Giuseppe,

I've set up IdeaMaker and succesfully printed the FDM arm but when i tried to connect them one broke in two. any ideas if a heatgun/acetone vapor bath could help prevent this?
Thanks.

Hi Paul, what 3D-printer, material and settings are you using? I have no problem printing with Z-ABS or Z-ULTRAT with my Zortrax M200. Can you send me the Idea file for the 3D object? (giuseppe.finizia@gmail.com)

Hi Giuseppe,

I'm using the Tevo Tarantula. with bed at 100 and the nozzle at 230. I speed is 45m/s and the travel at 100. The print doesn't release from the bed anymore(because the lowered travel speed) but like i said the print broke (http://imgur.com/a/dtQzg) apart when i tried to press them into each other. What's the idea file?

The Idea file is the project file of IdeaMaker software.
Are you still printing with PLA? Try printing 4-6 pieces at a time without turning on the extruder fan.
It looks like there is a bad adhesion between layers and this problem might be solved finding a better combination of the printing settings.

Hi Giuseppe,

Thanks for the suggestion of ideamaker it is amazing. I still have to tinker with the settings a bit since the travel is still way to fast which causes the ABS prints to release from the bed and ruin it. I'll let you know when i get it right.

Hi there! First of all, giufini, really nice work!

Does anybody know how it behaves over time? Do the joints get loose? I hav tried to print similar designs in PLA and PETG and after a week or so, the joints we're not holding at all anymore.

Thanks!

Hello Stefan, thank you for your comment.
I print all the parts of the articulated arms with Zortrax Z-ABS filaments and they don't get loose over time, maybe just a bit.
I can get even a better result using the Zortrax Z-Ultra filament that is a very hard material.
Anyway, I wish to inform you that in a few days I will publish an improved version of the "Ball&Socket Joint" that is specifically designed for FDM 3D printers... so stay tuned! ;-)

Hello giufini,

Thanks for the very quick and detailed answer. I will try to print your design in different matereials and give you feedback. Looking forward to the improved version:D

Hello Stefan,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Has anyone printed this with a prusa i3 mk2? What settings did you use?
Mine keeps turning bad prints, save once or twice when I got lucky. I think my extruder motor keeps slipping on the material (silver grey from prusa) but I can't be sure.

Good Beautiful work Thank you :)

What is the magnifying glass that will work fine for this? I'm trying to find one but they can't seem to find one with the ~3.5mm x 50mm dimension. Is that really what is supports? Any links would be great :)

Thanks,
Jorge

What differences have between:

  • BS_Joint
  • BS_Joint_coated
  • BS_Joint_thick_coated

¿?

Hello Raul,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hello Raul, sorry for my late reply.
The pieces "BS_Joint_coated" and "BS_Joint_thick_coated" should be used in conjuction with small pieces of heat shrink tube to coat the ball as illustrated in one of the project pictures, giving more rigidity to the articulated arms.
Anyway in a few days I will publish an improved version of the "Ball&Socket Joint"... so stay tuned! ;-)

i test it Bs_joint is -> normal
BS_joint_coated is thin in one side
BS_joint_thick_coated ins more little
Maybe for ajustement printer3d

Hello

Is it ok for you if i post aan thing that includes your ball joint?
I will put the link of this thing in the discription.

Tibo

Hello Tibo, feel free to use it providing a link to my original project, thank you ;-)

At what orientation is it best to print the ball joints. with the ball up or down?

I prefer to print it with the ball down in order to avoid the need for support structures.

ok good to know, trying that now. Just fyi though i printed it ball up on a makerfarm pegasus in pla didn't use support and had no problems. fit together beautifully

Hello, I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Im trying to print the Ball socket joints but the where the seam is there is too much plastic what temp settings and shell thickness would be best?

Im using ABS right now at 260C

Hello Zachery,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

It has been specifically designed to get better results from Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printers, so avoiding many common issues caused by this technology. The new toolset also include a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", so I guess that this will help you ;-)

I print all my kits using Zortrax filaments: Z-HIPS (for the base platform), Z-ULTRAT and Z-ABS (for the articulated arms and the other parts). In particular, the Z-ULTRAT material is very stiff, so it is perfect to make the ball and socket joints.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hi, the BaseExtension part does not fit the Base 17 x 17 16 holes. The holes on BaseExtension are about 5mm wider than the holes on Base plate. Any suggestions how to resolve this?

Regards roamer

I found the solution in the Extension_Linkages zip file

Ok, perfect! Have a nice day ;-)

The arms are a bit too brittle when printed in ABS or especially PLA. Not much holding strength.

Hello Brett,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Very nice Work !
Ca i buy a "All-In-On" paket from u?^^

Sure, you can!
Please email me at giuseppe.finizia@gmail.com and I will send you all the info you need ;-)

GREAT design, thanks for posting! I have been envisioning something like this for a while. I'm using a Lolzbot mini and trying the ball/sockets now. I have printed 2 arms worth using slightly different settings for each arm but the results are the same: they print well, they look good, they go together pretty well and work. But they come apart really easily. Anyone else having this issue? I see there is a suggestion for using shrink wrap, but that is for friction of the joints. For me the friction is perfect, its just the coming apart issue.

Hello Tom,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hello Tom, thank you for your feedback. I guess the problem with your ball/socket joints is caused by the not optimal combination of material and temperature of extrusion. Anyway try using a filament of neutral color, that is a raw material with a color similar to white: sometime the addition of too much coloured pigment to the filaments causes the printed parts to be less strong and more easly breakable.

This is probably one of the most ingenious projects I have ever seen. Thanks for sharing your creativity with the community. Cheers. Mark

I would just like to say thank you for sharing such a great design! I have seen this project grow and it is inspiring.

Thank you Shawn! It looks like my project was inspiring also for the well known PanaVIse company... ;-)
https://blog.adafruit.com/2016/02/17/new-product-third-hand-pana-hand-workstation-add-on-for-panavise/

been trying to print bs joint all night male side down nozzle kept knocking them off other way round and broke half way through, see some others have had similar probs, last print tried changing shells from 1 shells (new to this print stuff and never not used a shell) change to 0 and from 10% infill to 30 and just printed perfectly not sure which change did the trick I think the shell as was a thin part it kept failing on but something to try if having the same issue
great item by the way looks great in the pics will post make when all done

Hello Peter,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

This new toolset includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", it has been designed to be printed orizzontally on the bed so preventing the loosening of the grip and the breakage of the small wings of the spherical socket.

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

Hi i want to print the articulated arms.. which ball joint should i print???

Hi Luis, you can make an articulated arm printing 18-20 pieces of "BS_Joint.stl" part.
Then you have to print a "Base_Joint.stl" piece to link the arm to the base frame.
If the Ball & Socket joints are too loose, you can try to print the pieces ready to be coated with heat shrink tube ("BS_Joint_coated.stl" and "Base_Joint_coated.stl").

What is the best way to print the ball joints? I tried the male part upwards using supports and it works acceptable but I can't fit the male in without braking the tabs, I also tried printing opposite to that (using brime) and the edges were curling up where the extruder layed PLA and when printing a batch of 20 it was bumping in to the other pieces and broke them off the bed.

Hi Pawel, what 3D printer do you use? I usually get excellent results printing all the parts with the ZORTRAX M200 using Z-ABS or Z-HIPS filaments and each printed piece is very solid and durable. Anyway if you have to manually configure all the 3D printing process, from printer setup to slicing software parameters, maybe you have not yet found the optimal global configuration. Could you try to print using ABS material?

I print with PLA using Robo3D R1. I tried printing with temperatures of 190/40 and it doesn't cool down quick enough so the inside of a joint is rough (not giving enough room for the joint to fit all the way) and when I turn the heated bed off, parts come right, but they are brittle and tabs break off because the layers don't melt to each other well enough. I managed to print a batch of 20 and sand them down a bit so they work, but it was a lot of sanding.

try adding M109 S--- (enter temp for the dashes) in your g-code where the part needs to print at a different temperature.
M109 tells the printer to wait until the given temperature is reached. you should add it on the next line after the change temperature command is given.

Comments deleted.

Very cool invention! I am in the process of printing it out now on my davinci. I printed the base using ABS plastic and is pretty good quality. I tried printing the joints using ABS but is is too brittle. I then tried PLA and the results are much better.

Hi!
I am impressed with this project and I started printing it. Therefore I have a question.
Could you add a vertical frame for the 145x145mm version?
Thanks in advance!

Hi Mateusz, I have just added a new vertical frame... ;-)
Let me know if everything is ok when you print it. Bye.

Hi Bishapo, I'm glad you like it ;-)
I'll do my best to make a vertical frame mountable on the 145x145mm base.
Stay tuned for the update...

I've just connected this vertical frame to the base and it fits great. Thank You :)

Hi pugs2300, as you can see, there are several types of ball&socket joints available in the "Thing Files" section: if you do not intend to use the heat shrink tubes to improve the stability of the articulated arms, you have to use only the piece "BS_Joint.stl". If your 3D printed BS_Joint.stl pieces do not fit together, maybe you are having some issue with your 3D printer settings.
If you still have problems, you can try to use the piece "BS_Joint_coated.stl" without using any heat shrink tubes between the pieces. Let me know if this tip works ;-)

Maybe It's something in my settings. They seem like they would be right but always break before they snap together.

So I'm having a problem. When I try to assemble these they break. Like either the ball is to big I the socket is to small. Any tips ?

Hello Jared,

I wish to inform you that I have just published a new set of accessories for my "PCB Workstation with Articulated Arms": https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2503503

It has been specifically designed to get better results from Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) 3D printers, so avoiding many common issues caused by this technology. The new toolset also includes a much improved "Ball & Socket Joint", so I guess that this will help you ;-)

If you are going to print the new parts, I will be glad to receive your feedback.

Articulated Arms Toolset for PCB Workstation (FDM-optimized)
by giufini

I haven't printed this, but I would assume that heating the sockets with a heat gun or hairdryer would aid in them not breaking.

I'm having trouble with the base joints and the 145mm base plate.

The "front" tab of the base joint appears to be 2mm thick while the slot in the base plate is 1.75mm thick.

Is there a different base joint for the 145mm plate? Or could I hve something wrong in my slicer?

Edit: Nevermind. On a reprint, my extruder jammed, giving me a chance to check the size mid-print. On the next print, I realized I'm having a shrinkage issue.

Great design, thanks a lot! Could you please consider also adding a holder for the E-Z-MICRO-HOOK X2015 probes? Those are pretty neat for probing fine-pitch devices.

More info: https://www.digikey.de/catalog/en/partgroup/e-z-micro-hook-x2015-series/15908

Thanks!

Hi UweHermann, currently I don't have that type of probe.
Parhaps I will add this item in a next purchase on the digikey site.
Thank you for your suggestion, it is very appreciated.

Can you design a mounting clip for an oscilloscope probe.
By the way, awesome tool. Thank you so much.

Hi Pfanntec, please send me a link to a web page with description, specifications and pictures of the particular probe you wish to be supported, thanks.

Would love to see additional universal holder types for 2mm/3.5mm/4mm bullet accesoiries. For e.g. RC Hobby and Multimeter compatible parts.

Please, send me a link to a web page with description, specifications and pictures of the probes/accessories you wish to be supported, thanks.

As soon as I receive them I will let you know. Best thanks!

What filament did you use for the grey?

also what alligator clips are compatible with this

Read the 'Instructions'

Yeeeeeeeah that's what I was looking for, but bigger! Greeeeeaaaaaat!!!!!

Ok...this is genius. Great job!

Heatshrink?!
Genious!!

Wow, that's impressive!

Im having troble finding shrink tubing with thin walls. Can you please supply a llink?

Hi f99sm, I guess I used heat shrink tubes bought from Sparkfun site (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11379). However, I already noticed that it was a very thin tube compared with other types of heat shrink tubes, so I am going to add a new type of Ball&Socket Joint that can be covered with thicker tubes. Stay tuned!

I can say that I can't find any heat-shrink tube with walls tickness less than 0,45mm on rs-components italy.

First off. You sir, are a god among men. This is awesome!

Second. Can the base be laser cut? it looks to be flat except for one groove. can it be laser cut out of two pieces and then stacked? Are there files for that?

Hi cnt, thank you, your appreciation makes me feel very motivated!
I guess the base can be laser cut stacking two layers as you suggested, anyway I have no experience with this tecnique... what kind of files you need to produce a laser cut version of a piece?
I guess the base could be even more easly made using a CNC milling machine...

Really, at a minimum would be a vector drawing of the outline (preferably in some standard units, mm or in) dxf, pdf, svg. From there it could be split into two files pretty easy. Optimally would be two vector drawings with "hairline" paths that only contained the cuts required for each of the two layers with the edges slightly dilated to compensate for the laser's width.

In the past i've generated these easily using the create drawing feature of my CAD software. I'm not quite sure how to go about it from just an STL though.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299721/#files these work great if you dont have any wingnuts!
I scaled the 30mm verison down in my slicer to a length of 20mm.

gopro thumb screw
by tomerna

I can't find the datasheet...the adaptor should have a depth of 4mm and a diameter of 9,6mm. A hole in the bottom would allow a wire to go throw.

So send him a set of those probes already!

Hi sobo84, unfortunately I do not have that type of probe, therefore you should send me a datasheet of the probe showing the exact dimensions.

Fantastic! I like this better than the PCB station I bought on amazon lol. Thanks

I don't have a 3D printer, so I had a local shop print one up (Triaxisprint) -- same Zortrax printer and filament. It came out great! I used 10mm diameter heat shrink tube, and the arms are solid. Thanks very much for the design!

I´m wondering how you get the light shining. Is there also a resistor in the lampshade or where do you put it?

I inserted a 180 Ohm resistor in series between the two soldered cables, where you can see in the picture the small piece of black heat shrink wrap.

Giuseppe,

Perhaps it would be easier if you'd put your project on github? That way there's a log of changes, and people can use the facilities there to request changes or submit contributions. STL file viewing is built-in: https://github.com/blog/1465-stl-file-viewing

Thank you biot, I will consider your suggestion.

Awesome work! I really like this and would like to print one, but none of the bases fit my printer.
Any chance you could design a round base with 16cm outer diameter?

Hi KriJu, I have just added the new round base that you asked for.
Then, I would like to see a picture of your printed PCB Workstation ;-)

That was fast! Thanks alot! I´ll print and post it

Oh no! I forgot delta 3D printers!!!...
This could be the first endless project on Thingiverse!
However, I'll try... ;-)

Hi 3Dreamer_sweden, I have just uploaded a new set of bases... Now you can find a base also for your small 3D printer ;-)

Moreover, working on the new bases, I made also a special base for our friends that have a Makerbot Replicator 3D printer.

Happy printing to everyone!

My god man, this is amazing. Thank youu!!!! Excellent idea!

can you make a base plate that kan print on a print bed that is 15x15cm ? :P i want to print this ! but its to big for my printer ...

Hi 3Dreamer_sweden, I'll try... ;-)

maby u can splitt the big base in smaler parts ? :P

It would be awesome to add a little nozzle, and tubing going straight through the bendable part. Then you could attach a micro vacuum pump, much better to pick up components than your fingers :D

Hi Akmaistomods, I guess it is easier to use a tool like this: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Vacuum-Sucking-Suction-Headers/dp/B008LTKEA8 ;-)

Very nice. Now we need printable test probes, $200+ for a kit of those micro clips...not this week I think.

Comments deleted.

Greetings from Chile, estimated the project since leaving loved it, so congratulations to her creator, I printed the same day, now I see updates and say "why not wait a little" jajajaj have struggled to unite the embers PLA and I use when I install it breaks me aside, I'm 100% printing infill. 0.2 layer that recommendation you give me for it is not broke, now how could post updates on the old base? slot could remove the piece that goes into the base.
this is my mail if I could help.
francisco.abarca.00@gmail.com

This would be perfect for flashing ESC's! Nice.

Great work. Could you slice the base in a few parts to make it printable with smaller printers?!

Hi sobo84, what is the print-bed size of your printer?

Hi,
its 18x18 cm

Well, maybe instead of slicing, it might be better to design a slightly smaller base, perhaps 17 x 17 cm.
It might accomodate a slightly smaller PCB (11 x 11 cm), how about it?

That would be awesome!

Hi sobo84, having appreciated your suggestion, I have just added the new piece "Base_V2_17x17cm.stl".

Comments deleted.

WOw! just awesome design! thanks for sharing! just too cool for me to handle .

Really nice design. Thanks for sharing!

This is absolutely genius. Incredible job!

Incredibly awesome. Can't wait to build this!

Now this, this is useful.

Can anyone please tell me what are these colored wires for?
What are they? and where are they used? Do they protrude out of the arms in some way?

They are test lead clips. They are used for test equipment & measurement. (Several other uses also) They seem to feed through the arms and out of the bottom of the base. The clips attach to wires/components/pads on the pcb.

The clamp alone will be incredibly useful! Thank you for sharing!

100% making this! Thanks! I'll probably add alligator clips to my arms.

as an EE who solders and probes a lot I can this is a fantastic idea!

It' s so cool, well done!!!

I have to comment, this is awesome, well done sir!

I did something similar in a recent past... It worked great until the PLA started to get loose. I still have to figure out a way to maintain the stiffness of the rotule joints. Maybe other material work better? If someone has some recommendations regarding this, I'll gladly take them... Great work anyway!

Hi mmemetea, with the last updates I have just added a new type of ball and socket joint element: it has a slightly smaller ball that can be covered with a small piece of Heat Shrink Wrap (see new pictures).
In this way, the articulated arms are much more stable, as there is more friction between the joints.

Nice... Hopefully it will hold well in time. You may want to try the tip suggested by peetersm, basically, it consists in applying a hot melt glue dedicated to fabric (surebonder, I think). The problem being, if you're like me, based in Europe, not so easy to find. Thanks again for sharing and taking the time to answer me.

There is a video link in the description of this thing that talks about one way to make the joints work better.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:116571
I have never tried it, but it might be worth a try since you have already printed in PLA.

Open Source Action Figure with 70 Points of Articulation (aka Dexter)

Thanks peetersm, while the video tip is about ABS, it would worth testing with PLA. I'll try to find some equivalent source here in Portugal and have a try... Many thanks!

It's probably the ridges from the print layers wearing off. Maybe you could apply an epoxy resin coat to make the parts smooth

I wish it was that, but even some of the parts I wasn't using started to show some relaxation. Meanwhile an article in the 3ders.org explained that he used some more advance material than PLA, HIPS in this case:
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150506-italian-policeman-shares-designs-for-very-useful-3d-printed-pcb-workstation.html
Thanks anyway for the suggestion anyway... That could probably work.

Has anyone got any good reviews (besides sales pitch) of the HIPS vs ABS .. I have used a lot of ABS, with only minor lamination issues (still working on that), and would love to know a real review...

HIPS is awesome. It combines the plusses of ABS (strength, thermal stability, acetone treatable) with those of PLA (food safe, easy to print, less warping, smooth finish). It should have been the #1 printing material from the start, with ABS and PLA being exotics for specific applications.

Yes, but it is more expensive and more vulnerable to solvents than PLA or ABS. I use it as support material because it pops off of ABS when cool, generates far less ooze, and it dissolves much faster than ABS does.

OMG THIS IS SOMETHING EVERYONE NEEDS!!!!

At the risk of sounding ignorant, because I am (ME not an EE), what are the red, yellow, green, and blue attachments for and where did you source them?

look up test lead clips, they're used for oscilloscope leads or various electronic instruments and it just clips onto the wires and holds the stuff on it's own.

The hat is off!

Thank you!

This is one of the coolest projects for helping with other projects I have seen on here so far! Thank you for this design, I can't wait to try it out!