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Replicator MightyBoard Protection Part 1

by garyacrowellsr May 12, 2013
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Really a 1K resistor, you only get 5mA ?
Whats the maximum current of this regulator ?

I don´t want to make this complete board, so can i add only this resistors into the 5V cables of the 3 endstops ?

Is there a way to protect the heating unit (Heating Lines)?
I know some people with an burned item, U13 named on the board.
The display shows an error

This could be the same problem: cable is broken, short circuit, burn !
Is there a way to protect this ?
Many thanks !

I see that this board is a little different. I wrote about an CTC printer with mightyboard.
On your pic the U13 is an TO-220 case, on the board i wrote about it is an DIL case ?
This have 8 pins

This addition is great.

My replicator mightyboard blew up from a static discharge as well :(

I ended up switching to a flashforge mightyboard. It is better designed, and it has a better processor in it allowing the use of sailfish.

I highly recommend the replacement http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/parts-accessories/mightyboard.html

One note though, most of the connectors on the flashforge board are different, requiring you to re-terminate everything. It isn't a process for the non-advanced user.

Ahhh! I just fried my Replicator 1.

Don't know why there was so much static build up on this particular day. Warm weather, air conditioning, weird rubber type carpet. But these have always been the conditions I have worked with. I noticed electric static while touching the LCD button which made the LCD screen display strange characters. Apparently I had turned my Replicator into a Ouija board. I immediately restarted the machine and took ESD precautions, touching metal right before touching it again, but when I went to take out the SD card, huge static shock and the whole thing went dead and emitted an odor of burnt circuitry.

I am tempted to open it up and see if I can replace any bad circuit boards, but am afraid I will just waste lots of time. I suppose I could pick up an old broken Replicator one and salvage parts?

Anyway, definitely a bad design.

I have worked with this Replicator 1 for two years and had no problems.

I'm sorry for your loss. Fortunately there are several aftermarket companies that make aftermarket controller boards for the Replicator, and the cost is not unreasonable (on the order of $150), and as a bonus most of them have fixed the flaws that usually kill a MightyBoard. I haven't had to deal with a replacement myself, but I understand that this is one of the better ones: http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/parts-accessories/mightyboard.html

As an added bonus, this one gives you a 2560 processor instead of the original 1280, giving more memory which allows new functions if you use the Sailfish firmware. The replacement is not terribly difficult at all, and is mostly just a wire-for-wire swap. There are lots of folks that will help you on the FlashForge Google Group. Those Rep 1's will last a long time, and with care and a few upgrades can print as well as any new printer on the marker (and better than some). Hmm, I see it's $185; more than I thought. I also don't know about the SD/Display board - it may need replacement and I don't know about the cost or source for that one. The Google Group will help though.

If your board suffered a typical regulator blow-up, this is usually easily identified by physical damage to the large regulator chip that is near the switch and power connector. I would really appreciate it if you could take a look there and confirm that and let me know.

8 months ago!.. Do you still make this board? thanks.

Added an 'Assembly Notes' .pdf for anyone who wants to build one themselves.

Parts and boards have arrived, but I'm going to be gone next week. I should have assembled boards about two weeks from now. I still have to sit down and figure out what these are going to cost.

Hi, so what about boards ordering?
I have no chance to make it by myself, so just tell us about its price :)

+1 Are these for order? Or sold out and we need to make them ourselves?

I would like a fully assembled set if possible

Hi - great work! I think I spotted a small error in ENDSTOPESDSCH.pdf: C2 is labeled as a 10uF capacitor but in the BOF it is 47 uF. I guess the BOF is the correct one?

You are correct sir! In the schematic, C2 should be 47uF, 10V. Not terribly critical value, but I will get that fixed.


This is a great thing!
Where or when i can order it?

I have parts and boards on order for a small quantity build. Probably will be 3 weeks before they are assembled and tested. I'll announce here and on the forums when they are ready, and I'll give you a shout. Note also that there will be a companion board for the LCD cable presented in Part 3, and I strongly recommend that the two be installed as a pair.

Write please on invent@0x0a.net or here when the boards will be available for sale. I`m really interested in this :) because i have already two dead mightyboards at home.

Heh, I just noticed that the picture above was taken during testing, before I realized that the ESD diode chip was installed upside-down. That produced some really interesting symptoms. I never was able to perceive the slightly sloped edge that is supposed to denote polarity on that chip. The best I can say is that the "ST" logo is at pin 1. I'll be adding a document that details that and some other component polarity notes.

It's been interesting following the discussions on the Maberbot Users mailing list, and it's great to see this come together.

Awesome thanks for doing this. I've ordered all the parts and hopefully this will offer me a little more protection.

Full instructions are available as a .pdf in the downloads. I have boards on order for a small quantity build of these boards. I will announce here and on the MakerBot fourm when they are available. There is a companion board to this board, that plugs into the LCD cable, offering further protection. That board will be presented in an upcoming Thing.