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Mechanical Iris

by sketchpunk Apr 15, 2015
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Is this design possible as a semi-sphere?

Be interesting to try this on my SLA printer and see how thin I can get the blades.

is there directions or instructions on how to put it together

what size screw and nut

I really really REALLY dislike the whole pin-in-blade system. I have printed a gazillion blades and even more pins. I can't get it to work properly. Blades keep catching on the pins.

Hey man, what on EARTH did you use to glue the dang pegs in? I've tried CA, model glue, it should be easy, but cant find anything....

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Hey everyone, so I printed all the parts yet have no idea how to put it together. Can anyone please help me?

i would like to make this a box, may i edit this for personal use, i know what the creative commons license says, so i am asking permission so i cant be sued

We used tape instead of glue to attach the pivot pins and that worked well. Great Thing!!

I was thinking that having the pins set in the pivot ring rather that as a separate print. Might simplify construction a little better?

What size bolt/nut do you use?

Could you please post the quantities necessary for each file? I am finding it confusing. Looks like one of each frame piece, 11 leaves, 11pins, and 4 spacers? Also for some reason the pins I first downloaded are straight pins without a flange. Am printing the flanged ones now. Thanks for this build, seems very cool.

Edit: Thought maybe the code was messed up but the second set weren't flanged either. Will add the flange to the model and try printing once more. Also, could you clarify regarding the pins: Does the flange snap into the hole in the leaf? Then the small diameter goes into gear shaped body piece? Thanks

Just wondering if there is a file where the leaf pin and leaf are one piece. I am having troubles printing them as two pieces and I can add supports myself was just wondering if I can get a file where it is one piece and not two.

Just a hunch, the frontmnt has an inner radius (the hole) and an outer radius, I think that if you make the inner radius smaller, it will help the leaves close more. Although it will reduces the size when it is open, so maybe the outer radius should be increased, or the combination of both.
The blades shape should be wider at the side which will be facing outwards:
(warning: it will download a short movie, I didn't find it problematic)

A lot of these iris's don't close well even when made of thin brass. Mostly used in theatre spotlights there is usually a plate shaped like a lollipop that covers the hole so no light escapes into the lenses.

I didn't believe it would work until I finally assembled this. Very cool design! Unfortunately I didn't have time for taking picture. Thanks for shearing!

thanks. hell, i didn't think it would work either since I never saw this type of iris 3d printed before. But lesson learned, just because no one has done it, doesn't mean its impossible, just give it a try and see what happens. :)


Do you think this can be used as an end effector quick disconnect application?

Im trying to find a very light weight solution for my proof of concept

It would be cool if you could add some kind of actuator system to open and close the iris via an arduino or something. This would make a pretty cool door for a room :D
...obviously it would have to be quite a bit bigger.. but still

How is this put together? I tried several ways, but the spacer seems to be too big and it's hard for the pieces to hold together.

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Great iris sketchpunk! Can't wait to print it out and try it. I've also used iris-calculator.com in the past with great success. It's a few dollars, but definitely takes the headache out of designing these awesome things.

Thanks for the updates; the spacers were a must-have, the multi-pointed dial is helpful, but I still thought it worked pretty well as it was. But I'll be sure to print an update. . .

Great upload, really enjoyed making this. I printed the leaves at 0.3mm thickness (3 layers at 0.1mm layer height) and it almost closes all the way - about a 3mm wide hole left. It seems like the leaves are not wide enough if we want to have the iris close all the way, as you start seeing the gaps. I think 0.2mm thick leaves will do the trick.

thanks. The thickness can be tricky based on the quality of the printer you have. I posted some changes to make it easier to use. I am also setting this up as a challenge where I'll award the best remix with some cash. Not much, but i hope its enough. Maybe you can enter.

I'm confused what you mean by "pin facing outward on each side". Is the second pin supposed to be in the same location as the first but on the other side or is it supposed to be somewhere else? I'm also not sure what is supposed to go through the hole on the opposite side of the leaf from the pin. Can you please be a little more specific with your instructions?

In the 3rd picture you see the leafs. The leaf has one pin printed along with it plus a hole on the other end. Then there is a leaf_pin thing you must print, this one goes threw the hole. The both pins should not be facing up. If you were to take the leaf flat like how its printed, one pin is facing up. So you place the extra pin facing down on the other end. Since a pin needs to exist on both sides of the leaf, I could not print it as one piece. Look at the leaf model, you can see how the leaf-pin fits into it. Hope this helps.

Cool man, works great except I think I'm going to print off bolt spacers to keep the top and bottom plate tight without clamping down on the leaves. Thanks!

No Prob. So why did you print it out? Just curious or do you have some idea for using it on something? Freecad source is up incase you didn't notice, if you wanted to make a better iris. You can probably remove the screws and turn the base into a cylinder with a cut to allow the wheel plate to spin at a greater degree. Not sure how to clamp it down but with a .2 tolerance I've made things snap together and the 3d printing lines actually keep the parts together for a more hockey puck design. I did the screws instead of what i've described because I wasn't sure how tall the leaves would be once together. Having it all printed out, now its easier to measure and design a better enclosure. Probably only need to redesign the base a little.

Eh, made it b/c it looked cool, I've never made a shutter and not too much plastic. No, no use for it for now, just curiosity. Yeah I saw that source file, but I've never used freecad before, I'll eventually get around to it. Yeah, a base with snap hooks would work pretty well too, although the bolts already being there might be convenient for mounting to something else as well. I haven't actually tried anything that snapped together yet, I've suspected that I'd just break it, but...