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dasaki

Dasaki Ramps 1.4 Enclosure / Box / Case

by dasaki Apr 8, 2015
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Great design! thank you very much for sharing it

Thanks for the feedback!

Hi could you please tell me how to ventilation in this box? I mean will driver get hot enough to effect the printer with fans blowing out side. Should i print and use this one or some kind of open case ramps ofset thing for better ventilation?

This clearly is an extremely nice enclosure on screen but for some reason it's hard to print… At first Slic3R mentioned a bunch of Errors in the file which weren't fully repaired beacuse the design still had holes in it. Cura was able to slice it but I had to abort the print because it came out extremely ugly. After I took another step with Slic3R PE and Netfab repair. It printed but left a mess inside the mounting holes. This comes by Design I guess because one way or another the printer has Nothing to print on (despite air). I print on an original Prusa I3 MK3 and after all the Arduino doesn't attach to the Enclosure. I dont want to hot glue it in so I'll leave it for now.

Your CPU + GPC on the PC aren't able to do the calculations
I have 11 laptops an 6 desktops of witch 6 laptops and 1 desktops give me errors like you describe
Python out of date
Math`s processor drivers out of date
Older than 10 years
File download check sum correct
File download md5 sum correct

The computer runs windows 10 64 Bit on an intel i7 4790k,16GB Ram. Slic3R Prusa Edition and Cura were both installed within the last 4 weeks. The System itself is 4 years old and is able to do the math. If the file, which I believe is a binary, not ascii, was corrupted no Slicer had even loaded it. If it is ascii, which I cannot check now it might be an issue with internationalization. I didn’t and still don’t want to bug anyone with this but slic3r PE clearly has problems with this file and since the design is great I’d like to get behind what’s wrong.

When you look at the Slic3R Prusa Edition you see on the right three drop down boxes
check these settings as they did give me troubles on my lenovo too
On the left is also a drop down box .try different ones and check the setting inside the slicer
1 the size of the nozil ie: EG.0.4 mm
2 the layer height = 2/3 to 3/4 the dia.of the noxil size
THICKER LAYER HEIGHT AND PRINT SPEED ARE VERY IMPORTANT
THE FASTER ONE PRINTS CAN ALSO CAUSE GAPS IN THE PRINT
THE FASTERONE PRINTS THE TEMPERATURE MUST INCREASE

I push my pla to 235 degrees c ond my ABS to to 270 at print speed of 300% on my Rapman Mod
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3146630
Prints at 350 mm X 350 mm X 800 are pushed to the extreme
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303199

you might also try and increase the hot end temperature by 10 DEG.C

The tic box`s for detect for thin walls may also interfere sometimes

check that telemetry is blocked of windows 10 as MY IT Brother showed me
He went to the permissions and blocked windows 10 from sending my work to microsoft
P.S. WINDOWS RECORDS ALL ONES STUFF IN THE BACKGROUND AND LOGS IT TO MICROSOFT
Window will say the do not but they do

PRINT MATERIAL IE. PLA BRAND MANUFACTURER A AND BRAND MANUFACTURER B WILL DIFFER !

Try a lowerprint speed or increase the feed rate of the fillerment

RAPMAN 3.1 MOD
by Theidd
Auguste Piccard (PX-8)V2 for RC
by Theidd

I'm sorry you had troubles trying to slice/print it, despite more than 80 other persons made one of these without reporting any issues.

Thanks for the good design. How could I fix it on a 2020 frame of a 3D printer?

you will have to design an adapter, or have a look at the makes/remixes

I need mirros version ? Now open right. I need to open left

A "mirror" won't work, because the Ramps board is not symmetric.

So need new design ? I need it. I print this version and connect but i cant open the cover.

yes, you need a different design or use it turned 180 degrees

can't you do it?

I'm sorry, I wont make a new design.

Hello
Your design is very good.
May you send sldprt or part file too?
Thanks

This was designed in Sketchup, no parametric part available.

7@Fractle already touched on this, but your response made me wonder how well the lid would stay shut if it were mounted underneath my enclosure... oriented with the boards vertical and the lid opening downward. I imagine with gravity pulling down on the mass of the lid and fan, that little "locking bump" might let go and cause overheating problems, especially on a hot summer day (ambient can rise to ~41C/106F where I live).

To ensure the lid stays put, I envision drilling a small hole near the existing "locking bump", and using a nylon bolt to go through the lid and box. This will secure the lid from dropping open, and requires removing just one bolt to open. I have some nylon bolts with "tool free" knob ends that would make opening/closing even easier.

This will likely work well enough with the existing design, but I may do a remix to optimize the enclosure for this. I plan to widen the tapered upper part of that "locking bump" flange, and add holes to the cover and flange. This would allow the screw to be placed farther from the hinge for a larger moment arm about the hinge axis.

Done :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2930923

Edit: By the way, was able to do that remix in sketchup not freecad. I really wanted to use the 2x 40mm lid, but freecad was not able to produce valid mesh when I try to cut the hole with a mesh boolean. Any chance you could upload a sketchup file of the 2x40mm lid?

Ramps Enclosure Remix (lid pin added)

is there a way to take a 30mm fan?

Various fan size conversion adapters.

oh thank you very much

Will this work with ramps 1.6 ?

It should work

Can you provide the latest sketchup file?
Thanks for an awesome design!

Latest Sketchup file is the one available. I haven't modified the file since last upload.

Hey there! Would it be possible to increase the height of the cover portion of the box by ~18 mm or so? I've got some jumper pins I'm connecting to the top of my TMC2130 drivers and the current model is super snazzy and snug-- without the jumper pins.

I tried to modify the file through Sketchup but that particular face has been smoothed so it won't let me push/pull (I realize it's probably not the most optimal way of bringing around that change, but I've only used Fusion360 so Sketchup is a weird beast for me)

Willing to tip!

Thanks!

Hi,
I think one of the remixes from other people might help you, have a look at them, for example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1944357

Regards,

David

dasaki ramps remix

Will definitely look this evening! Got a little excited last night and forgot about the remix tab...

Thanks for the quick reply!

Does it work with TMC2130?

Will definitely look-- got a little excited last night and completely blanked on checking the remix tab.

Will let you know! Thanks for the quick reply :)

How much to have one Printed ?
Thanks

hi dasaki why is there 3 model different to what his corespond

Version v2 -> reinforced and increased space of cable holders.

dasaki_ramps_enclosure_cover_v2_dual_40mm_fan.stl -> dual fans

dasaki_ramps_enclosure_base_mountless.stl -> base without mounting nuts sockets

thank you greeting and good job

Hi, i not understand why all files "cover" the hole for fan is closed.....
Thanks

Hi,
For the people to choose what fan to put and also for pieces to print better. You have to cut the hole where you want to put a fan or leave it closed if you don't.

Hi, really like the design of this box, i would like to modify it a bit, because i need aluminium extrusions on printer and i need to fasten the box onto them, is it possible to edit somehow? Maybe you can send me the files that are editable over email?

Hi, thanks!
The sketchup source file is included in the "Thing files".

The fan inserts seem unnecessary and were extremely annoying to remove with a box cutter. The case itself is nice, but the struggle with the fan inserts really drags this thing down. Thanks for the design and I hope your future projects don't have this issue.

Thank-you for a great design. This is exactly what I was looking for.

I did the dual 40mm fan version. I drilled and tapped the holes for 6-32 bolts. Everything snapped together like it was supposed to.

Thanks for the feedback!
:)

Is there any way you could post a 60mm fan version for the top fan?

Holes for a 60mm fan would interfere with the wall of the cover. I suggest you to use a fan adapter, for example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:735038

Parametrizable any size to any size fan adapter with manifold tube angle

My ramps + arduino doesnt stay in the case, it seems the enclosure locks are bigger

Hi Dasaki Im using you box on my dual extruder printer and im finding that the mosfits are not getting enough cooling would it be possible for you to make a new cover for two cooling fans please?, even if one fan is smaller then other it will still help keep both the stepper chip and the mosfets cool. thanks

Hi,
Did you put heatsinks on your mosfets? It is strange that there is not enough cooling. Another reason can be that the wires inside the box make difficult a proper airflow...

Thanks for the swift reply, and that is exactly what is happening! too many wires lmaooo and no I didn't put heat sinks simply because I only have long ones 50mm, so I figured by getting a second small fan towards the bottom and a bigger one towards top could solve it, its only when im dual printing, 2 hotends, heat bed all 4 axis creates lots of heat, plus like you said the rats nest of wires don't help anything.

And heatsinks (even a piece of bent aluminium sheet) will definitelly help.

ok, just uploaded a dual 35mm fan cover version: dasaki_ramps_enclosure_cover_v2_dual_35mm_fan.stl

Hope it helps

What size fan is this designed for? Fans are sized per case dimensions not the distance between the mounting holes.

Sorry, you're right. Corrected for 40mm fan size (32mm between holes): dasaki_ramps_enclosure_cover_v2_dual_40mm_fan.stl

I love your design! Unfortunate, due to the orientation, it will not work for my mounting requirements.

Is it possible for you to release both pieces in a "mirror image"?

Sorry mirroring wouldn't let the board fit in the case.

I'll have a look if the electronics would fit in the mirrored case, if so, I'll post it, no problem.

What LCD monitor are you using?

Reprap Ramps V1.4 smart 2004 LCD controller

I love this box! I needed a higher one, so I happily took this as its model. Thank you, dasaki.

It is wondeful design! Thank you for this!
I had to change the position of the fastening holes. I tried to do it in OpenSCAD, but the stl model was broken and I had to fix it with netfabb.
Maybe you make a version of the Box without mounting elements?

Done: dasaki_ramps_enclosure_base_mountless.stl
:)

Thanks! It looks beautiful and very comfortable!
I made one!

Great, thanks!

I am exploring how to mount my controller in a Kossel Mini. Your design is inspiring. I shall print it out and learn from you. Thank you for including the Sketchup file.

I'm glad it helps! Thanks for the feedback :)

Esta buena palta algo para la pantalla

Would you be able to design one that would allow the RRD fan controller to ft? Or would drilling a hole work?
http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/Reprap_Ramps1.4_RRD_Fan_Extender

I would just connect the RRD Fan Extender to the ramps through two 3pin male to female extension wires like these:

http://www.elliottelectronicsupply.com/3-pin-male-to-female-dupont-arduino-jumper-connector-22ga-wire-pigtail-prototype-breadboard-10-inches-long.html

That's sounds good.

How would you recommend making the holes?

No need to make more holes, just route the extension wires inside the box and through the gap left as exit for all the wires, or through the gap left for the lcd connector.

Ah sorry wasn't clear with my question. How would I cut out the holes for the fan?

I see :)
Well, depends on the fan size. The box is prepared for 50mm fans. For them just carefully cut the thin octagons seen on the lid/base with a cutter or sharp blade. it shouldn't take too much time.
For other fan sizes you can modify the design:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1253228

or print an adapter:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21112

dasaki cover mod for 60mm fan
Various fan size conversion adapters.

Why do the fan ports print anything at all? I'm struggling with a box cutter right now trying to remove these 'pop outs.'

For two reasons:

a) For the people that want to put fans, they serve as some sort of support so the ports render well and clean after cutting them.
b) For those who don't want to put fans at all

It looks perfect, I just wonder if it fit for Delta. Just put it on the side of Delta, I can easy look inside of the box rather than looking under the Delta. May need a few modify to fit.

Thanks! You can try to design some kind of adapter piece, to put between the printer and the box.

I worked it out and fitted to the Kossel mini, just by adding 4 holes to the base piece. So I didn't use the adapter piece. Looks cool though.

i really like it! a very good design

Hi,

Why does it appears t me that Fan does not have 50mm hole for airflow.

But the pic you have shown has a fan on it.

As tou can read in the thing instructions: "Cut the hole/s for the fan/s after printing"

OH hmm.. Can you make it part of the design? Seems like it can easily be done without having the manual work..

It wouldn't print well with the hole in the design.

hello friend , do you have file with cad i like to much your enclosure , thank you very much

I made it with Sketckup. The Sketchup file is available for download in the thing files.

thank you very much !!!

Hey dasaki!

I was able to mount it, but I'm having an issue with it staying closed. short of using some tape, do you have any suggestions?

Hi!
I must admit that is one weak point of the design, it is suposed to snap and stay closed buth sometimes if the tallest fuse of the board or the wirings make pressure against the lid, it wont stay closed. Have a look if you can bend a little some of the electronics that might be touching the lid, or check if the cables are pushing it upwards.

Regards.

What kind of mounting options does this have? could you mount it to 2020 Aluminum extrusion? it looks like there are some captive nut spots

The captive nuts are M3, I originally designed it for my prusa i3 aluminium frame, but you could easily design an adaptor piese, that let you screw it to standard aluminium profiles.

Hey there. Version 2.0 is not manifold.

I think it is solved now

Yep. Fixed. Thank you

Slic3r aparently fixed it, I'll know if it fixed right when I finish printing.

Ok, I'll check it out

Excellent design, great work!

Hey thanks for the design. I just started printing this and was wondering what kind of fan you used?

I used a fan savaged from an old cpu heatsink, but I guess any 50mm 12v brushless fan should do the job. There are some differences in quality, energy consumption, air flow and noise, but nothing that should really bother you.

After printing with recommended settings everything came out perfectly! The boards now snap in nicely. Keep up the great work!

Great!
I'd love to see some pics :)

Hi! Great design, thanks for sharing and for taking feedback.
Have you thought about publishing a version of the case and lid without fan supports?
I plan to use only the fan on the lid, but there might be others who prefer the other fan (or no fan at all).
I could edit the STL in OpenSCAD (I don't know how to use sketchup) but I guess it would be better if the change were done in the skp file directly.

Thanks!
Actually, the design is meant to cut the fan holes after printing, so, if you don't cut them that spaces remain closed.

I'm working on a version with holes for multiple fan sizes, and detachable cable clips. Stay tuned :)

I can not wait to see it and to print it. thanks ;-)

Im glad you like it!
:)

I just started a v2 print and I used your settings this time and it drastically reduced the print time! Thanks for sharing. I love the design!

Awesome, thanks! I hope this time everything goes smoothly :)
Please keep sharing any thoughts, issues, wishes or possible improvements.

Thanks for the quick response. I think I see how it mounts, my print quality was off for some reason when I printed it. So, my fault for it not snapping in I think. I will try to reprint it when I get my quality issue fixed.

I see. I've just uploaded newer version files (v2) with stronger cable holders. I'm still working on it specially to avoid weakness of the printing position / layers.
Apart, with the suggested settings (0.3mm layers, 25% infill, 50mm/s, 1mm shell thickness) it is supossed to be printed in about 4 hours...
Thanks for the feedback, that will help me to improve the design :)

Thanks for responding. I really like your design, but I have tried every possible way to place the boards in the enclosure and I dont get any snap in of them. If those four corner holes under the boards are for mounting the enclosure, what are the holes in the side with the raised nut keepers?

I've uploaded an image of how is supposed to work. You may have to scrape a little the print if it does not fit good. All the holes are for mounting only, just in different positions.

I printed this and was very disappointed to spend 8 hrs on it, only to find out that the holes to mount the arduino/ramps board are in the wrong locations. Am I missing something here?

Hi, sorry for your disappointment. Please take into account that this thing is a Work in Progress. The ramps is supposed to be mounted without screws, just snap-in in the proper place of the base. The holes you see are there to fix the enclosure to your printer.

Just a question, I don't see where you plan to make the motors(and others) cables go out of the box ?

Have a look at the last picture of the gallery :)

Ahaha perfect ! Thanks ! Sorry to have missed it !

Such a elegant solution, thanks a lot for sharing.

Thank you!
There is still room for improving the design. I'm looking forward for feedback to see what should be modified.

Hello
I have problems slicing 'dasaki_ramps_enclosure_cover_v2'. slic3r found errors and the print is not good

Hello,

Try with Cura