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Prusa i3 X assembly

by barneyj Apr 17, 2013
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I have printed the x-ends and noticed something that i never knew. I have the acrylic (black) HICTOP version. I have completed the Prusa i3 Rework for the print bed with no issues-however my printer came stock with 8mm threaded rods and smooth rods (as measured by caliper on the outside of the threaded rod teeth, not sure if this is correct way to measure). Also, the distance between the threaded rod and the smooth rod is completely different. Does anyone have any suggestions other than printing the z-top/bottoms from the rework kit, drill new mounting holes for said brackets, and mount on my existing acrylic (black) hictop frame?

My goal is to use the x_ends with a previously printed geared bowden setup. I also want to test out using printed bushings to replace the bearings in the pics and found your design perfect for this. Everything thus far fits on the x carriage itself, however to replace the x-ends i'll need the rods in different positions.

You wouldn't be able to use my x-ends with 8mm threaded rods. The design captures a 5mm nut. But since the distance between the threaded and smooth rod is greater on your printer, maybe you could design a "clip" of sorts to fit in the nut cage and interface with the 8mm threaded rod?

thanks for this design, i made one , it is much better than the equivalent parts I purchased. your attention to detail and precision is evident when assembling. Everything is well thought out, has a purpose and works as designed.
It prints easily and quickly. Thanks very much keep up the good work.

Thanks for the comment.

I've noticed on my i3 that the nozzle is set up great for 3 movement directions, but when moving the Y bed front-to-back, if anything catches on the nozzle, the nozzle is drawn downwards, which can cause head crashes. So, how to make it as rigid as possible? I'm trying a little reinforcement for the nozzle near the bottom rod. Even so, with my current, mostly original set of parts, as I move the carriage around I feel play in the LM8UU bearings plus some play in the x gantry, mainly around the Z bearing holders. It looks like your parts may be better than these original parts in this area. I assume zip ties will have less play compared to these cut-cylinder PLA bearing holders. I also need to look at better bearings and rods. For now I'll try using PLA bushings + PTFE lube on the X axis in place of these choppy LM8UUs.

I found the same issue with the original design. In my case, beside the loose grip the plastic had on the LM8UU bearings, the X carriage "twisted" a bit. The original X carriage design has the top bearing to one side. This allowed the extruder to pull away at the top. I moved the top bearing on the carriage to the center and that helped quite a bit. I also adjusted the position of the extruder's mount. As for play in the bearing itself, I haven't had that issue. Perhaps you may have knocked a few balls out of the bearings?

you need bearing on top of z threaded rod

This is terrible advice, please don't ever give it again. You want the threaded rods to float so that they aren't influencing X/Y movement of the extruder. If you overconstrain the rods, you'll exhibit what is known as "z wobble".

There's noticeably more Z wobble in the prints with the bearings than without. For the time being, I have them out. I need to find straighter threaded rods. I tried straightening the ones I have best as I could, but I think I just need to start with straight rods.

Nice slim design. Can't quite see how the extruder attaches to the x-carriage - could you put up some photos showing this please?

One of the photos show the extruder off the carriage. Two 3 x 50 mm bolts join them.