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by Unix Mar 19, 2015
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there is a bug on the firmware, on the new arduino 1.8!

rod length and box outer diameter for the XL version please.


does i see it right that all the bearings are just screwed in the plastic parts with some m3 screws? i love this design because the thickness of the wood doesnt matter. but i would also like some more introducions

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I've just got this built and the one thing I'm missing is the endstops.
What endstops is this using?

I only know of the types with the exposed long circuit board, and then just the small black plastic switch.
But I've never seen this one? So is there more information available online that I cannot find, or a way to mount a regular endstop switch found on amazon?

Also, you need an additional picture where the belt attaches under the bed.


Hi Unix,
I would like to modify your desgin to make it bigger and to use bigger rods. Is it possible to release the source files?
Thanks in advance!

Has anyone managed to get an E3D style hot end in this?

What do you mean? What hot end do you see on photos?

Hey KrisMoro, looks like j-head from my limited knowledge, been so confused about all the different clamp sizes whether looking at clones, e3d versions or something called a lama which seems to have a different size slot again.

Only hoping someone with more experience has a better idea as the clone e3d in my mini fabrikator 1.5 was a nightmare to stop rattling around when I got it.

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Also I tried a couple of times but the two PDF documents you have enclosed in the zip file were blank. Is there any way I could get the cad files for this, ,I would like to easily modify the endstop mounts to work with my endstops I have, Thanks!

When looking at the pictures of your printer I can't help but notice that the endstop by one of your motors is just screwed into the side there. What calibration and measurements went into that?

what is the rods lenght ?

Hi. File box_-_front.dxf is unreadable for me...

Hello, congratulations for the project. is fantastic
Excuse my bad English but I have a question:

These are the measures corresponding to the working drawings autocad ... if I want to bring the printing height 200 I just raise them 60mm or there are other steps to follow?
Thank you

i did build this printer whit a alu heatbed.... it looks to be to heavy. the steppermotor cant hold the bed up if the motors is not active.
anyone else got the same problem? and how did you solve this???

put a code in at end of job to lower bed when done printing before disabling stepper motors.
I was thinking of changing mine to lead screw, costs a bit more tho.

I redesigned this machine with leadscrew and the endstop in Z min, electronics wiring, etc.. Z heigh went down from 14cms to 10 cms but i got a pretty nice machine right now.

have you uploaded the stl files public???? or any pictures of what you did ?

i do have the leadscrew from my Prusa i3, i only need help whit the design. im not skilled whit 3d programs.
So pleace if you find ore make anything give me a replay :)

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Where I can find the BOM file?

I'm redesigning it. I don't understand why do you placed the Z endstop at bottom.. to calibrate the printer you have to wait 2 minutes to go down

What does it matter if the printout takes a few hours?

It matters because its useless. Why is it better to have it down? It is also dangerous cause if you calculate it wrong, the bed can crash the nozzle....

If you want you can publish the files i redesigned. I also made files to use a mechanical endstop with LEDS in the axis.

Nobody forbids mounted at the top.
I use the autoleveling so no problem, no need to change, everything is done automatically.

I understand, but the mayority of the 3d printing users dont use autolevel, and there isn't a way to mount it at the top... so if you want i can share the file

Since you obviously know about how the "majority" of 3d printer users have their printers set up what is the statistic of those you use auto-level?

I would say it is a pretty high amount.

Also I would like to point out that many commercial printers have the endstop at the bottom of the Z axis.

It says Gear for motors - GT2 20T - 2 pcs but i dont understand what do you use on the z motor for the belt

Thanks for this. I am just wondering are there some detailed build guides for this printer?

HI, where are the bearings in the printer? I can't find them.

Inside the pinions

I dont understand the PLywood laser cut files. When i open the files they have some green lines and black lines.. when i open it with ilustrator they are layers "Wybraine 2mm and Wybraine 8mm"

That can be very loosely translated to:
Depth 2 mm
Depth 8 mm

Any chance for 12mm rod version files?

I can not view the pdf..potresti download them?
Despite open them with Adobe ... shows nothing


Its supper printer but I would recommend to use proper GT2 idlers coz I could not get good quality with 3d printed once.

Replaced with aluminium once prints really good!!!

Thanks for shearing


Hi i have built this its awesome printer but i cant successfully print gear.
Have you managed print such thing?


The Pinion Gear? I did but the belt didn't ride on it smooth, so I used idle pullys in its place.

can i increase the z axis length ?

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Hi Unix, can you share som pictures of the prints that was done with this printer? Are you satisfied with the print quality? What is the main adventage of CoreXy, speed or precision?

Very impressive,looks great.

Looks very cool but I'm doubtful about the solidity of the axises. There is probably about 5 meters of GT2 timing belt in this design. In normal printers GT2's flex can be ignored. But for this long a belt, I have a feeling you'll get wobble. Does anyone have pictures of benchmark pieces and max speed data?

This is why I'm looking at designing a system that uses short belts for accuracy coupled to longer steel wire for the main motion.

Does the bed fall when no power? If so any way to fix this?

Yes it will fall, solution for me was to enter a g-code in slicer to bring Z back down when job is done. and don't hit the reset button by accident. I was also thinking of adding counter balance system.

your z axis design looks very interesting as does the whole printer. I really like it!
My questions is wether or not the z axis is sturdy enough? Do you experience any wooble?

depends, it doesn't wobble since it only moves down, but if your hotend is rubbing the existing print, it will move a small amount. I experienced that when a ABS job lifted off table slightly from cooling. Z belt is not bad for a first time builder/user, it will slip instead of breaking something. It has room for improvement, upgrade it later to a Leadscrew is an option but more expensive and the power behind it can break something if you have a oop'sy.

Hi guys, its possible to get wiring diagram for this printer? Especially for Z probe. How to connect it to Ramps?


Has anyone made some experiences with this printer? Any benchmark prints?

Hi! has anyone tried using 608zz instead of 623zz? They are less common here Thanks!


Do you have scad file for the central carrigae? I want to borrow your carriage for another printer. Your distance of two rods is 4.5cm. I have 5cm instead.


dont understand where do i place the pinion gear rol colum ?

I want to know what kind of power supply you have in there :)

It's a xbox 360 power supply.~200w single channel.

I just ordered the parts and finished printing. Hopefully all goes well...

Hi, The plastic parts can be somewhere to buy? bearings_cover, extruder_right.....

Hi, What are the maximum values for feedrate and acceleration or what value do you have set?


I priced this out on Alliexpress and it was ~ $250 for the BOM sans wood. It is very interesting to me, but do you (or anyone else who built this) have any other videos of successful prints, even photos. Basically I don't have enough money to purchase this and have it not work...

Really? It may have been a bit different a year ago, but everything came to less than $170 for this setup. (also excluding the wood)
You probably shouldn't be buying the PSU off of AliExpress, you can usually just reuse one from an old tower PC.

the firmware attached is fully functional ?

Are there instructions for the build?

Instructions in the file PDF. Save to hard drive and open in the program Arcobat reader, not in your browser.

I go buy the 3D picture? Are there no worded and more detailed instructions?

Unfortunately I do not have time to prepare.

Is there no part to print for the filament roll holder?

I'm going to try and design a router/endmill attachment for this printer!

If you want to do that I suggest using leadscrews because they can provide more torque.

the file "central_carriage.stl" is not suitable to support an extruder E3D, right?

digleo91, Unix: hmm, I have E3D v5 chinese clone and it fits very well to original design carriage. It needs only one washer made for m8 screw (DIN 126 or PN-82005 OC). Put it on top of e3d v5 while mounting extruder to carriage.

Where can I find the container deglii endstop ( stl ) ?

Which endstop? Z-endstop is in the file http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1172863 Other stop limit (X,Y) screw directly into the housing.

Good thing, brother! I want to made it. I was start printing first stls

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Will you publish bowden extruder and central carriage?

I do not designed bowden, because it is worse than direct.

Thank you for your answer.
Why did you say worse?
I think bowden extruder better than direct drive. Because bowden extruder is more light and more less vibration.

Shall I edit your central carriage design?

Thanks for the great printer.

Bowden is worse because there is a problem with the retraction.

Hi Unix, let me ask you a question: If I would adjust (shorten by approx 3-5cm) the XS box & rods, will it impact the prints quality?

On the quality will not be impact, only on a smaller the working area.

Hello Unix,

Any chance you can post the DesignSpark motor_mount file, so I can adjust it to nema23?

Thanks for the great design

This requires a change of all elements because Nema23 is greater than Nema17.

Can i use a ramps 1.4 with Arduino 2560 ?

Where i find the instructions for mounting printer, if it exist ?

Any Idea why these do not seem to be the correct size?

I have seen people try to scale up prusa printers, and they seem to run into problems with having enough heat and strength. However, your design I think can easily overcome these issues. Do you have any plans for a larger version?

Yes, I uploaded DXF files to XL version. XL version differs only in size of the box, the other parts are the same. Working area 250x200mm.

In Thin Files : X3DCoreXY-_XL_version.dxf

Best regards

wouldn't the 8mm rods also be longer? how much I need order for XL?

EDIT: I think I answered my own question, comparing drawings of box size, it looks like the X is +50mm, Y is +10mm and Z +70mm.

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Can you post the cad files for the gantry parts? I need to modify the left and right mounts to suit my build. thank you!

Sorry, but no. You can modify the STL file, eg. in the DesignSpark Mechanical :)

I tried editing the center carriage in DSM, it's limited as an imported file, can you upload the original .rsdoc file?

Its fine. I ended up just extruding the one side in Blender. I wanted to have my screws driven from the inside of the frame not the outside because its going to be apart of my office furniture.

I had never hear of DesignSpark, I'm downloading now to check it out.

Does anyone know the outside measurements of the box? I do not have access to a laser cutter and will be using a table saw for outside cuts and a router for the inside ones

XYZ - 341, 385, 316 mm

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friend Good night, Much like your project, and would like to build it, however I wonder if you could tell me where I can buy the electronic kit and also the other parts that will need .. You could also send me if possible details of the project co measures .. I not found ..

Congratulations On


All the parts you buy on ebay.com or aliexepress.com.

by Unix

how long are the 8mm rods for the x and y? also could you release both the 3d pdfs as a sketchup file?

X ~270mm, Y ~ 260, Z ~256 mm
Sorry, I do not have the ability to write to Sketchup file..

The same question for XL version, please

Hi, would be nice if this sizes were listed on instructions page :)
Also, can you inform the sizes for the xl version?

In time, congratulations, very nice design.

Yes, Please

I have now a poor printer and after 20 hours of print I am still without the bed support.
I want to try without the sides opening.
Could you upload the DS file so I can modify it?

Thank you very much

I upload bed_support.rsdoc (DS format file)

Thank you

Can you include STEP or IGES files please!

Sorry, my software not save to this formats :(

Can you lower the resolution of the STL files then.
Try to keep them about 1MB and lower so I can open them.
What software are you using? Most can save out solids as different solid formats.

DesignSpark Mechanical

I can see what formats that can save out in. Not much.
Can you just try saving as a .STL with lower resolution. Keep them under 1MB each and that would help me.

If I understood right, is missing in the files the model of the cover bearing for the central carriage, the one with endstop flag.
Am I right?

Thank you

Yes, sorry.
Please download the file http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1195602

thank you

PDF's please open from local hard disc at Acrobat reader (not in Internet Explorer, Firefox, Chrome etc. ) - this is 3D pdf.

i did this i never open on browsers! but your pdf are empty :(

nice parts, i printed this night :) i'll using core system in one laser resin printer.

I did download of all and PDF's are empty! :(

Thank you for sharing your work.
I am start printing the parts.
I 'll keep you update

the pdf file for mounting is empty

Not empty, see the Instructions.

Your job is really cool, but you need belive in us.

see the print screen, i did download one new 3D pdf viewer, try PDF reader UPdated, and many others :)

Please downlad newest Acrobat Reader and try open :)

you win KO kkkk!! works with new reader

PDf files are blank.

Wonder if you could upload the bed support as a step file? I would like to be able to break it down into parts for printing.

I do not have the ability to write to the STEP file.

I wonder if you find that this type of printer makes really good prints? I have a flashforge creator pro and would like to build a printer with a 10" x 10" bed. This one looks like what I am looking for. Wonder how close it would come to printing like an ultimaker 2?

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I will make this project with my Taz 4.0 clone and my Shapeoko 2 , I will change the design of the box to not copy .
A big thank you for sharing

I throw dxf with the support of the bed.

How thick are the wood box parts?

10mm per the instructions, I'm planning on 1/2" since it's much easier for me to come by here in Minnesota

Thank you. I'm in the USA too. May think about using 1/2" also for sides.

What head are you using?

How did you make the bed support? Do you have the dxf files for it? Would like to break it up into smaller parts for printing.

I upload bed.dxf :)