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E3D v6 Compact Extruder for i3 Rework

by Mak-a-face Mar 16, 2015
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noob question here do this set up fit on an Anet A8 or a similar mechanism?

Does the center (where the hobbed bolt sticks through) need to be drilled out?
In the .stl files, there is a "wall" in there

yeah, it needs to be cleaned out, drilling out optional. it pops off pretty easy. I just used a knife.

The only thing making that cheaper is the free shipping when you can get the real deal (pro or standard and even the real deal socks for volcano) for $4.99 + shipping from https://www.filastruder.com/products/silicone-socks-3-pack?variant=22501353988

I have a HicTop 3DP12 Prusa I3 clone, it looks to have the same Y-Gantry as yours. Do you think this would fit? The extruder that came with it is not great and the one I bought (mk8) won't fit in the bracket.

This extruder is designed for the E3D v6 hotend and will only fit on the Prusa i3 rework x-carriage, so I don't think it will work with the one you've bought "mk8".
Have you check to see if anyone else has a Prusa i3 mount for that mk8 extruder? I did find one by Ghosty.

You may also need a different x-carriage to attach the extruder mount.
Let me know if this helps.

Prusa i3 MK8 extruder attachment
by Ghosty

Hey there, So i followed the remix link for this awsum extruder of yours, to the servo holder.... (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1538198)
But it does not fit so well... it fits to the extruder, as it would the normal size wade, but due to the smaller version you concocted the servo holder and big gear does not work so well together. Do you perhaps have another one you (servo specifically) you could recommend, or an installation method for this one (maybe i am just being stupid....)

Prusa i3 V6 Compact Extruder Servo Holder

Here's a few different ones you could try out but I would be better off design your own, using a 3d program like Sketchup or Autodesk 123D Design, both of them are free.


Auto bed-level for Prusa i3 Rework
Autolevel Prusa Rework mod
Servo mount for Prusa i3 Rework

Thanks. Ill check it out

Thanks. Ill check it out

I just finished printing this turned out great. Now I'm just trying to figure out the step settings. From the math I'm getting a number of 707.78 doesn't that seem like a high number to upload to my baboi config ?

Check out ZennmasterM's video on setup your extruder e-steps.


or Thomas Sanladerer on calibrating your extruder


Which X-Carriage you are using here?

I was using the original i3 rework version but now I'm using a new version that I designed.


i3 Rework X-Carriage for GT2 & T2.5

Love this design. Any chance you could upload STEP files? I would like to add a Z-Axis sled to this setup.

Sorry, don't have any. I used Autodesk 123D Design. It's free

I'm using Fusion 360 so anything that 123D can save/export I'm sure I can use.

I'm not having any luck finding the original files, can you use the STL's files?

Unfortunately, STL files are only good for printing not editing.

where do i find the geared for this

If you check the remixed of this design, you'll see the link to Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears.


Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

Thanks for the help, im a little slow :P

I have made two to these extruders, and they both turned out perfect and is for me, a much preferred solution for the Prusa i3, than drilling out a i3 improved greg wades extruder. Thank you for sharing this thing.

What is the screw hole right below the screw the idler hinges on for btw? Custom heatsink shrouds? I thought it would be usable for mounting a custom annular fan shroud (fan mounting bracket on the side isn't ideally located for this application) I'm using it but the longest m3 screw I got on hand except for the 2x long ones for the springs is 30mm and it doesn't reach into the back where the nut is. http://imgur.com/a/36yFm

Some solution that doesn't need a crazy long screw and possibly even has 2 screws in-line for fixed fan cowlings without wobble without having to tighten hard enough to lock it in place using friction would be nice

Yeah, it isn't that deep if you screw it too much, you could end up hitting the cold end. What about using the clamp on the side to mount it on? You'd be able to slide it up and down if you needed to adjust it.

I like the design, how well does it work?

Problem is that my m3 screw seems to gradually get less and less traction on the plastic hole it's going into, I guess it eats away at the plastic a little each time I re-attach it, I guess I need to find one long enough to get to what I think is a nut-trap back there?

Don't really see how you'd slide it up/down on the side-clamp, would pivot at the screw point making the cowling tilt and thus hit the print/hotend and I'm not sure how you'd mount the blower fan and cowling easily compared to this approach.

The fan cowling works well, gives very even 360 airflow, I've iterated on the design a lot and I'm very happy with it, only downside is that you can't see much without bending down to look under it since it's so close to the print, which is why I made it removable for printing ABS especially when I want to print multiple ABS objects one after the other.

Do you still have the Stl for that cooling shroud? Im in dire need for something exactly like it! Thanks!

Have you checked on Ebay for M3 x 35mm or 40mm Socket Hex Head Cap Screws? I've seen a few sellers that are selling them.

I remember seeing a maker on thingiverse that had design one that work on the side but I can't seem to find it at the moment.

Yeah, it kind of sucks when you can't see what's happening under there. :) I hope to see your design when it's done...

Hola, me pueden decir que carro usan para coplarlo al eje X, no es compatible con el mio actual de Wade.

El carro X que estoy usando para moiunt este estirador es.

Aquí es otro que he diseñado.

Espero que esto sea lo que usted necesita. Estoy usando un traductor

i3 Rework X-Carriage for GT2 & T2.5
i3 Rework 3 LM8UU Bearing X-Carriage

Hi, i printed it multiple times, and i keep having the problem that the hole that goes to the e3d does not align with the e3d.
I printed it just fine, the holes for the bearings are perfect fit, the e3d itself is also a perfect fit, but the hole does not align :/ very strange

It seem like it's not going all the way in. Try using boiling hot water, just dip the cold end then press it in. Be careful not to burn yourself.
Let me know how it works.

Well thats what's weird, my e3d v6 is a perfect fit, and its all the way in like it should :s.
nice design btw ;)

No I'm serious. After printing this design over 50+ times. I didn't always get a clean print at the bottom of the slot for the v6. So adding a little heat helps line up the holes.

i see what you mean, but i am a bit afraid that the hot end wont be a perfect fit anymore if i do that.
Anyway i drilled out the hole and it works now ;)
Thanks for the upload i like it, much more then the greg's wade extruder.

Most reliable design I have used to date. I will be posting my makes soon. I have one in service and getting ready to commission another printer. Thanks again for the great design!

Glad you like it and I look forward to seeing your print. :)

very nice and functional design, i will be trying to use that on the next rebuild of my x carriage.

could you maybe add a "quick release" version of your compact guidler such as in http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20413 ? You can just loosen one single screw and flip away the spring loaded screws for easy access to the hobbed bolt, for instance for maintenance (cleaning, checking for clogged teeth, removing dust etc.)

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears, Parametric Filament

Sorry, I'm quite busy at the moment with other projects.

I've downloaded and printed this extruder, my issue is that my hobbed bolt has a smaller groove, it's a different kind from the new ones used on the remix, it does not grip the filament without a lot of pressure, could you upload a version that has the hobbed bolt 1 or 2 mm closer to the filament?

Any chance you could post a version that allows the PTFE tube to run all the way into the extruder similar to what elahd was talking about? I'd be interested in this. I think I may just print the 3mm version and drill it out. I don't have the hotend yet, but it looks like the PTFE tube might have any outer diameter of 4mm. Thanks!

  • Bryce

Like I've mention before, I wasn't planning too. What you'll need to do is, leave the bowden coupling collets out, it won't fit on the extruder body then you'll need to cut a piece of PTFE Tubing even with the top of the hotend then slide it in. Make sure to check to see if the filament is sliding in smoothly.

Guess I'll just drill it out then.

Is there any problems with printing flex filaments?

No, you shouldn't have any problems printing flex materials. 1.75 flexible filaments are a bit harder to print compare to 3mm. Just need to print slower.

I've printed filaflex just fine.

Any chance that you would release the source for this? I can't seem to find a cold end that can accommodate the PTFE liner that's part of the E3D Lite6.

No, I wasn't planning too. The V6 coldend is the same as the Lite6. Leave the bowden coupling collets out, it won't fit then you'll need to cut a piece of PTFE Tubing even with the top of the coldend then slide it in. Make sure to check to see if the filament is sliding in smoothly.

That's it.

Comments deleted.

Got it. I guess the risk of internal leakage without the collet is low -- the mount is tight enough to keep the tube in place. I'll try that.

Ideally, I'd be able to run the PTFE tubing through to the top of the extruder, like in http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/File:V6_Assembly_-_Half_a_Wades_Block.jpg.

Thanks for the response.

Comments deleted.

Is there any way to fix an Inductive bed probe to this? Maybe to the screw where the fanduct for the hotend is fixed to. I havent built up my printer yet but that would be a cool addition to this part, because it already has such a great functional design.

Yeah, you can. At the moment I don't have the parts to build one so if you're interested in designing one, be my guest. I can't remember the last time I leveled my heatbed. I'm using a adjustable Z-Axis Micro Endstop.

i3 Adjustable Z-Axis Micro Endstop for 8mm Smooth Rod

Jeah, i didnt level my bet eather for a long time, but i need to Adjust the Z-Offset constantly to get good results ( i think this is due to changes in roomtemperature and humidity).

I just designed a holder, but didnt test it Yet.


Prusa I3 compact z-Probe Holder
by Robohac

OK, testet it and it works great :D The design is quite crude, but feel free to include it with The Extruder.

Ah, that make sense. Yeah, it looks like it will work, nicely done. ;)

Hi again, yeah this design has better fan ducting but I wonder if you might not need 2 fans one on either side like your older design for certain prints? I guess this works fine if you have overhangs on the "right" side, getting around the cog is the problem I guess.

This is a really nice extruder, I've tried several.
Does anyone know of a blower fan duct that directs air around the nozzle?
The blower fan duct included cools very well, but only on one side, the "opposite" side suffers from curling etc.

I have printed out all the parts and have most of the hardware. I have the 1.75mm version of the E3d which comes with a bowden coupling at the top which interferes with pushing the hotend into the groove. Do I just pop this out or what?

On my older extruder I just used a drill the same diameter as the plastic coupling thing to make a small indented addition around the hole for the plastic clip to go into, worked well, I guess drilling/cutting should work on these or add it yourself to the model.

Yes, It won't fit if you do. You just need to cut a piece of PTFE Tubing even with the top of the hotend then slide it in. Make sure to check to see if the filament is sliding in smoothly.

Does the v6 fit in this model??
I orderd pieces from a company because my printer is out of service and i needed these to continue,
I paid 50 euros! and the part doesnt fit at all!, i dont think its bad printer quality.

You mention that the part doesn't fit. You might want to check your extrusion multiplier. If you're not sure what I'm talking about. Take a look at ZennmasterM's video on Youtube that shows how to calibrate your extrusion multiplier.


Well like i said its not my printer, a "professional company" made this for me, Because the e3d v6 doesnt fit with my old j head mounts (e3d sellls it as j head compatible) i needed these parts to be able to continue.

Thanks for your answer, now i now i can blame the company and not your model.

I won't waste your time with that company, you'd be better off finding someone in your area that can print these parts for you and then you'll be back in business. Your printer is a i3 rework right?

Yes it is a prusa i3, and i tried someone's 3d hub before, but the quality was horrible and i canceled the order.
I am starting to get really fed up to be honest, this is all i need to continue printing and i get ripped off and still cant continue.

Oh, that sucks. I'm surprise that people who are offering this service on 3d hub can't show you some of their prints before you decided to get something printed from them.
Well I wish you luck with this problem.

Yes, the E3D v6 fit in this model, it is made specifically for it. It is a tight fit (like it should be). I am currently using it and it is a very good extruder. Will post make pictures soon.

Can you make the fan duct for a 40mm fan?

Yeah, that should be easy enough to do, I'll have something up by the weekend.

ok thanks. When will you release the Side Blow Fans? If you can, make it for 60 and 40mm

At the same time, I'm working on it right now. It's going to be a 50mm side blow fan.
I'll have to order some of those different size.

So am I right in assuming you use the original big and small gears from the Prusa i3 Rework Thing Files?

No, I didn't but you could. I use the ones from Greg's Wade reloaded.

biggearmod_fixed.stl and smallgearmod_fixed.stl. Print them both at 100% extrusion so my M8 hobbed bolt won't be loose on the big gear.

Here's the link.

Greg's Wade reloaded - Guidler, Tilt Screws, Fishbone Gears

One more question... Does this use the same X carriage from the Prusa i3 Rework, or is there one that works better with this? Thanks again!

Yes, this extruder was design for the i3 Rework. If you check the Prusa i3 rework mixes you will see other x-carriage that you may find useful.

Great, thanks for the quick response!

Brilliant! I gained 6mm on Z.