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Whats the difference between the two tool mounts?
Please use the website for instructions and questions.
Can the hardware from the original be used with these updated printed parts? If I already have the older versions printed, is it worthwhile to print these parts?
I do believe you should use these parts instead. There are only a few bolts different between the two that should be very easily sourced locally. If you have more questions the site forums are a better place.
Ok, thank you for your advice and work on these machines, I will see about going to the forums and printing these parts.
Does anyone have the original design files? I need one part and I redesigned the gantry to a double based on the old design. If i have to I will draw my own but I wish I could find the original design.
Very cool project! and tell me if there is a link to the ones on AliExpress because on Amazon some of them will not be sold anymore, and some refuse to send them to my stan, or they make a lot of money for it.
Where are the original parts? I need to replace some.
did you find the original files?
Sorry I do not have the parts from 4 years ago. I know it is kind of a lot of printing but any parts you need to replace would be much much better off using the new versions. Every single part has be refined and improved.
If you still just want and old part I am sure someone in the forums has a copy.
Hey, that's great! I am grateful for the free disposal of your idea and plans, I am thrilled and will build soon ...
Your project is the basis for many makers and will certainly come in many variations based on your release ... wow!
those of you from australia what tubing are you using and where on earth did you get it from. the conduit you get here from middys is made of plastic
I'm using 25.4mm stainless steel from Midway Metals - easy to deal with. I actually got a deal on mirror finish 316. I don't know if it will be stronger but it will be pretty :)
I'm just starting to print parts on a Dremel 3D40 printer. However, the estimated speed seems to be way different than what is stated on the V1 Parts listing (https://www.v1engineering.com/blog/parts/). The parts list shows the RollerPlate taking ~10 minutes. However, my Dremel is estimating 40! At that rate the ~100 hours will become 400. :(
I didn't see any recommendations regarding print speed and such. Attached are the parameters the Dremel Cloud Print set for this model after following Ryan's recommendation for infilil and perimeters. Can anyone recommend some setting changes to get this down to the 10 minutes Ryan reports on the website?
I'm getting slightly lower print times than he listed running the speed settings in the attached screenshot on my Ender 3. I looked at your text file and your speeds are much slower - but I haven't used that Dremel machine to know what speeds it is capable of. I know this comment is old but maybe this helps someone in the future reading through.
would it be possible for you to upload a file using 1" instead of 3/4" conduit
There's already a version for that, it's called the J-25.4mmhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1671517
No, that does not fit 1" ID EMT conduit. Those are for 1" OD stainless tubing.
1" EMT is 30mm OD.... want to run these for the outer square and the 23.5 (3/4" EMT) for the inside cross of the x and y and for the z also.... any chance of a solution????
If you are looking for more rigid than 3/4" conduit stainless tubing in 25mm or 25.4mm. Several reasons for not using 1" EMT.
Hi! When I was a young man, I did a lot of tinkering, making things and repairing my car. After years of what life had to throw at me, including depression, I got far away from being a tinkerer... I worked in graphic design in sign shops but that's about it. LATELY, I've been introducing myself into the "Maker" world. I'd like to make this machine, however I'm unsure if my little Monoprice Mini Delta could handle all of the parts. The parts have to fit within the relatively small build area... a cylinder of approximately 110mm across and 120mm tall. Would each of the parts fit that area? I can't really tell but it looks not. :-/
Also, I haven't managed ABS (yet) is PLA strong enough?
This would be an exciting project! :-)
Come join us in the forums, I see those post and questions much sooner than these. PLA is better, PET can work, but ABS for some parts is not a good idea. I have some minimum build volume specs at the top of the FAQ's page, and the parts page I believe.
Thank you! I've decided to start printing and now have 8 pieces complete. I will either farm out the largest pieces or, possibly, figure a way to divide them. (in some manner that keeps their strength when put back together... maybe designing in a splined joint with methylene choride to cement them together.
These public/open projects must be very gratifying for you! :-)
Awesome design, I didn't want to make a CNC until now. Do you have plans to use Brushless motors? I would guess brushless has more precision and torque than the normal brushed.
Hi, welcome! You can buy or make a brushless setup. If you want some more details the forums on the site are a much better place for a discussion.
Can't wait to get my MPCNC up and running!
Just Starting my build :) Just ordered most of the parts..
JUST got the first batch of parts printing.... Here's the live feed!https://youtu.be/WHgotU0nrms
Is it possible to use new Z design but keep old XY?
I am unclear to what you are asking. The entire center section has to be replaced in this upgrade.
If you have further questions please use the forums.
Hi. Just downloaded the C-23.5 mm and readme mentions it is 25.4 OD Conduit. Printed a sample foot and indeed it is 25.4 mm. Can you confirm the correct files? Or please let me know what I many be doing wrong. Cheers.
Downloaded here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999/
I don't understand the question, please use my forums.https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/
pla, abs, petg, pc, carbon fiber???
I have a raspberry pi 3 model b and an arduino. can i use those to control the software instead of the rambo board?
No, those are not the same thing. You can utilize them but not by themselves.
Please ask any followup questions in the forums.
Here are some board options.https://www.v1engineering.com/marlin-firmware/
I bought/printed all the parts listed, but i cannot find how to attach the threaded rod to the z-motor. Theres a different coupling nut in the instructions then was on the parts list for the 5/16ths. Looking through old threads there used to be a 3d-printed part, is that still available?
The new Burly version has no way to use threaded rod anymore. I highly suggest T8 lead screws or better.
if you're using 5/16ths threaded rod for the z-axis, a standard 5mm to 8mm flex coupling will work just fine, the old 3D printed 'pineapple' coupler was just a printable version of one of those.
Can I use PLA?
Yes, that is the recommendation. See the parts page for more details.
Can this be used to cut a carbon fiber sheet approximately 3mm thick?
Yes with extreme caution of the dust.
Can we have an updated printed parts list? Your parts have no list that equals the files you have here. I understand you are doing this as a way to help others but not having a real printed parts list means we can't follow your builds correctly.
Pretty easy to follow along on his website: https://www.v1engineering.com/blog/parts/
Download the files and look at the site. Not as easy as you state. Since none of the names are even the same.
What's more I don't see you in the made list or even a contributor. Are you just commenting to be a tool or do you have any real reason to post?
Just trying to be helpful. Didn't know if you found that page before asking for a parts list. I'm working on my build right now and the documentation on his site is very well done, in my opinion. I will upload a "Make" when finished.
To address your concern, the only difference I see between the part names here and the list on his site is the C specification in these file names. TopM_CornerC is the C version of TopM_Corner, and so on. It may have been helpful for the C specification in the filenames to be consistent (*C.stl vs C-*.stl) but the overall part names are the same.
JaLittle, thank you very much!
Vamp, if you can be more specific to what you are referring I might be able to help you out but please, take it down a notch. Jalittel has been very helpful in my eyes and you have come off very off-putting. Forgive and forget but please, you will find everyone associated with this to be very helpful and kind.
There are 3 different sets of printed parts C-23.5mm, F-25mm, or J-25.4mm (1in). As stated on the linked parts page.
Please ask all follow up questions in the forums.
I appreciate your answer, but I am not going to join another forum just to figure out your build. I guess I will just use another set of files and give up on this one. Wasting time is not in my forte.
Your perspective is understood. The parts page and instructions are all there just in case.
Please try to think of forums from my perspective on whatever your next project is. This machine, in it's current iteration has taken more than three years and countless peoples time and efforts, it is extremely versatile as a massive collective effort made it that way. Forums are not just a place to go figure out basic issues on a individual basis, it is where the collective knowledge, ideas, and opinions are shared, freely. Instead of just using someones project I highly recommend you become part of the project, whatever it may be, not just a user of it.
Noted. I actually built your first iteration over 2.5 years ago, but lost all of my gadgets during a hurricane. I used it as my first large format 3d printer.
Oh man, it has been such a journey since then. I have a new revision coming in a few days (fingers crossed). Not sure how much you have kept up but the current revision a few of us started to mill steel. That gave me the spark to sit down and refine some more, I am confident It has improved again.
Sorry to hear about the hurricane, I hope it has only been a speed bump on your road to success.
Soooooooooooo, should I wait to start building? I was looking for a cnc machine to help me out with my kit car build (and maybe make the next one go more smoothly). I was trying to figure whether router for wood forms or milling for the odd metal piece. $900 one way, $1400 the other. Looks like I can have "good enough" of both worlds with the MPCNC, for just a few dollars more than I have already saved up for the project. Thanks in advance for your reply, and in arrears for all the work you've done so far!
Never mind. I found your website, the forums, and the facebook page....and got introduced to Burly today!! Looking forward to this one!
It gave me drive. I now have 4 anet a8's 2 of those little 90 dollar kossel type printers, and a metric ton of filament. The whole tool mounting and support system is different than the first one I built. So for me I wanted to do it again. I would love to be able to mill steel and aluminum with this, But I have a rule about forums. Mostly because I don't tolerate anything related to people spewing nonsense or trying to make themselves look self important. My machines are for my hobbies, nothing more nothing less. I don't plan on using anything I have for money making purposes. This is all about a complete Bus to R.V. Conversion project.
Bummer that you think all forums are the same. You could be missing out. Good luck, have fun with your project.
I’m interested in building one, but I’m in doubt if my printer could print the parts correctly since it is not the most accurate printer. What are the tolerances on the printed parts? Will the whole system wobble if some walls are (for example) 0.2 mm wider than the stl-file? My main concern is that the bearings will not be aligned correctly and therefore will be too loose around the pipes...
Always best to ask your questions in the site's forums.
When making your post share your calibration print dims and diagonals.
Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!
whats the height od the Z axie tubing? on the assambly page it say 7.5" i did cut them like that but they too short??
Please ask all questions in the forums, this gives others a chance to help out.
Will this do aluminum if even very very slowly? I ask because I would 3d print the parts then put it all together and have it cnc some aluminum parts to replace its own 3d printed parts I had originally used thereby making it so much more rigid and repeat ability would go up exponentially I think.
Yes you can mill aluminum, lots of videos, pictures in the gallery and even an article on the home page about this. The mill a better part though...not that easy.
The best place for a detailed discussion is the forums please.
in the parts list some of the part names are lighter color print.is that the different color?
Yup, at some point someone asked how I print them and it was my way of keeping track myself.
Thanks,i like the two color look and wasnt sure how to do it
Just curious if anyone has tried to make a horizontal spindle mount? I am looking to make dove tail, and other joinery, keeping my work piece horizontal, not mounting it vertically. With a table 44" high, I can't join boards longer than that.. not good for making larger projects. I know it would transform the standard axes, and gravity is going to stress the bits in a different way. Hoping someone has given it a go before I CAD it up fresh. Thanks.
Is that conduit in the first few pictures? If it is did it come in black or did you paint it? Thanks I really like the look of the machine and have already built one of my own I just couldn't find the answer to my question on the forum.
Nah, that is stainless, stained.https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/red-black-and-wheels/
Hey @Allted, I have a question, is there any reason why you went with the motors mounted on the gantry instead of having a Core XY style system?
This is not a coreXY geometry, it simply would not work.
As for why I put the steppers on the moving parts. Many reasons. Shorter belts, smaller footprint, lower cost, less parts.
What do you think is gained by not having them there on a system that typically moves at 8-20mm/s? Please ask any questions you have in the forums. I really prefer not to use the comment system here.
Is it possible you can point me in the right direction, to what setup of your would work best for a simple foam board cutter?
I've looked at your designs and there is so manyI'm overwhelmed. Any help to put one together would be much appreciated.
I have never used one. It would be best to ask in the MPCNC advice forum and see what the guys that designed the needle cutters are up to.
Any assembly video?
Two at the bottom of the assembly page, https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/ and a bunch more if you search YouTube.
Please ask follow up questions in the site forums.
Thank you very much :P
D'you know of any F360 CAM post-processors for Marlin?
Yes there are a few linked on this page.https://www.v1engineering.com/information/how-to/
Excellent, thanks for the info and thanks for being an active member of the community :)
Ha, thanks...maybe a little too active sometime.
Because of this post I decided to also compile a list on this page as well, https://www.v1engineering.com/milling-basics/
If you find any other please drop a link in the forums.
Will do! To be clear, does this generate specifically for the MPCNC or for Marlin CNCs in general?
They are for any machine/board running Marlin.
Brilliant! My guilty confession is that I'm not actually using the MPCNC because I didn't feel it met my personal needs (sorry!). I'm using the Root 3 which I'm starting to regret somewhat as there are many odd design choices and errors and the BOM needs a lot of work.
Thanks for your hard work :)
Well we all have to make choices....no hard feelings. Luckily the expensive stuff will work on all sorts of machines and printers if you change your mind. Could be awesome though, I have never used one.
Feel free to start a thread in the forums if you get lost or stuck. I am very proud of the amazing group of people in there. I am sure we will be able to help and will all probably interested in the build anyway!
How large of a build area do you need to print this project? In other words how big is the largest printed piece?
My 3d printer only has a 6 inch build area. Can it print all the pieces for this project?
I was able to print everything on my Lulzbot Mini which has a roughly 6x6x6in build volume
I am not sure the exact specs are on the FAQ's page, first or second question.
What is the max size this could be that it would not have to much flex? And can it cut aluminum up to .25in depth. I would love a 4ftx4ft cutting area but can see how that could be to much flex for cutting aluminum?
That is not out of the question, but I highly recommend you start with a small build and learn how to handle it first. Then a few dollars in conduit and you can resize it later.
Yey, I've done a few projects scaling up designes for larger work areas. And sometimes I have had to scale up the railing or conduit in this case.
You can add supports to the outer rails if needed. I also designed the LowRider CNC.
The forums are a much better place for a discussion and questions. Lots of users have made it giant, several examples in the gallery.
Hello, I do not know how to connect the two stepping motors that serve y, x axis. Please show me a picture or graphics 2C 2A 1A 1B are on one of the other? Please help Thanks
The website linked in the description has all kinds of information about this. There are three ways shown on how to connect a stepper.
This is a basics page, https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/wiring-the-steppers/
Or you can just buy the custom wiring harness, https://vicious1-com.myshopify.com/collections/parts/products/wiring-kit-1
Thank you Allted for all the hard work.
Here is a preview the build.
0.1 mm layer hight
The first steps into a whole new machine!
Hi Allted! First, congratulations for the design, it's awesome!
Second, I'm from Brazil, and as we follow the German DIN standards the most similar outer-diameter tubes here are the 21.3mm (1/2'' inner) and 26.9mm (3/4'' inner). I can source this tubes for as low as US$2/meter here. If I need metrics I can only find stainless steel for 10 times this price.
Do you think I can modify the STLs for 26.9mm or is this a bad idea?
I have 3 sized machines a a lot of German builds. Look for 23.5, 25, or 2.54mm OD Electrical conduit or stainless steel tubing. If you can't find it make a post in the forums and usually someone will chime in with were they got theirs from.
Rollers and RollerM
2 of each. Ones mirrored but look identical? Whats different
Yup mirrored, explained two comments below.
Very weird. This has easily been the most popular question over the last two weeks....
Thanks, Normally Id look up but had 5 mins at break.
Although Im still not certain why the 4 rollers are not just print 4 of the same. They look symetrical. Do they not naturally mirror themselves when put onto the other side of the gantry?
""This is showing the pairs for the X and Y axis. It should be one Roller and one RollerM. It does not matter which way the gantry rail angle is facing as long as it is facing the same as its counterpart.""
Here is a link,https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/rollerrollerm-x-axis/#post-45541
Ok thanks. I feel like that lazy person that doesnt investigate anything. I printed and have an RCNC mechanically put together, just need to wire the electronics. I on a whim 2 days ago started to print all the stuff for the MPCNC since I have 4 printers sitting here and have 3d Printers Block. Pretty much making this for a Needling machine to cut out Foam for the Flite Test planes, as Im getting into flying and the cheapness to crash one of those planes is alot better then a 200 dollar foamy when parts are 50 bucks to replace.
Thanks, and cool design, this looks way easier to put together then the RCNC was, and sourcing the parts for that sucked. Your buddle, and prices are way cheap. even compared to amazon, where a nema17 is 12 to 14!
Well I hope you like it. If you have questions please use the forums, the comment system here takes to long and is difficult to search.
Just a quick question, will matric bolts and nuts fit in this version?
I have to buy the pipe in 3/4 but for the rest matric is easier to source
Yes, Both are listed on the parts page.
why do some of the parts say M on them? You have a lot of parts and im trying to reprint the upgrades and its not very clear. Your list parts on your website dont match the names on thingiverse.
It should all be very clear if you follow the instructions as to which parts and why some have a M (mirrored). What parts don't match?
M means mirrored, that helps. Wasnt clear on that. wanted to make sure it wasnt an obsolete part. I have a gen 1 machine so this wasnt my first rodeo doing this but I also dont want to waste hours on the wrong prints. The links just take you to all the thing dowloads, not the specifc part. are you aware of that? it makes the link on each item in the instructions somewhat redundant.
Wondering if you should give this a shot? Wondering if this is the right machine to build? There are a couple of different CNC's on this site and at this point you're probably trying to figure out which one you should try.
My answer - YES
Here are some pic's of my machine. I have a 24" x 24" workspace and am using a Dewalt 660. I printed the parts on my Dremel 3D20 and bought the electronics package from the vicious1 website (https://www.v1engineering.com/). My price for everything, filament included, was under $380.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write that. It means a lot to me. I love the community we have around the machines I think that is the special sauce to this whole project. People like you!
It is a pretty amazing thing to have someone say such nice things out of the blue. Makes my efforts feel worth it. Hopefully we can continue to innovate and improve the machines, the over all experience of building them, and using them.
Thank you for helping make my day start off on such a high note. I wish I could pin comments.
You're welcome, much deserved. Have a good one!
ok. got a question for all of you who made it (not you Allted, no offense)
did you all print the parts the way they were when you downloaded or did you rotate some of the parts?
I am looking at the Bottom_Corner right now and Cura says to add supports. they came in upright. I am wondering if some have rotated or not.
Just curious before I start saving Gcode. I want to get all the parts loaded into OctoPrint and want to make sure I am not waisting my time on potentially failed prints. I am also trying to fill my plate so I have less files.
Thanks in advance
Sounds like Cura's on the fritz there, all of the parts are designed to print without supports and are pre-orented for printing. As for doing batch files, I'd only recommend doing it with the smaller parts, the print times are long-enough as it is with the larger sections.
That's what I was thinking. I probably have my support setting wrong and it is overcompensating.
I do not leave my printer running while I am gone or asleep so I will only batch smaller parts (like the feet).
Thanks for the answer. I figured all of the parts were already pre-oriented correctly, but I wanted to be sure before I started making my gcode files. Figure I should probably start printing them now during winter if I want to build this thing this spring.
I have another (hopefully easy) question for you. It looks like the basic setup is 24" x24". What is the actual usable workspace on that?
It can be configure many ways and does not need to be a square. Here is the calc page, https://www.v1engineering.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/.
That's what I was looking for! Thanks!!!!
hey, quick question for you. I am looking to build this cnc this summer and looking at your hardware kits. can you give a brief explanation between the Rambo and Rambo-Mini? I am trying to decide which one to go with but need some guidance
Hmmm. Technically the mini handles the machine as we have used it for almost three years. The Rambo and soon the Archim get you easy access to an extra driver (as well as wires and plugs). The extra driver lets you have the option of upgrading to dual endstops / auto squaring that we just got pushed into the main marlin firmware. Most projects are fine with just a mini, the extra driver brings in another level of precision.
Dang, I am not good at putting this into words. If a little extra money doesn't hurt your wallet too much I recommend the rambo for future expand-ability.
Details on the main page, picture of the square watermelons.
Thanks. As long as the mini can handle a router, laser and extruded head, I thing I am golden. Wish spring were here sooner so I could get started on this! Want to get the hardware before I start printing......
I know this has probably been mentioned. But I couldn't find it nor have I found a piece I couldn't slice yet :/ What is the largest printed piece?
I have a build area of 120mm x 120mm x 120mm (MPSMV2)
Am I going to be able to print all of the parts?
if you do the 4dm brutus.. you can fit it. if he still has any left to sell
Did he stop making the Brutus kit or just the Maximus? I know 4dm is out of the maximus, I was under the impression just the smaller kit(maximus) wasn't being built anymore.
He is completely going out of business, when his stock is out it will be a done deal. People are coming up with pretty good self builds. You have options. Spend some time getting to know the machine and watch what others are doing. It will become apparent what road to take. Or quick hurry and grab a brutus while you still can.
Thanks for this, Made my decision easy. The Brutus on order.
Nope your going to need an extra 15mm.
Details here, first question, https://www.v1engineering.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Thanks for the extremely quick reply!
Looks like I need to do the bed extension, I was already thinking of doing.
do we need to print the M parts or whats with those? they look exactly the same as non M counterpart.
and what about 13mm nut lock vs 11mm?
Full explanation in the assembly instructions for those parts. Yes you need them. 11-13 depends on the nut size if you use one or use a spacer.
thanks for the reply.
I looked through the instructions and must have missed it. X/
Hey, i was just wondering, do you think it would it be possible to use a dremel on this cnc?
I've been wood and metalworking for 25 year and own dozens of electric power tools. during that time, I've burned up the motors in only three tools. One was 15 year old skill circular saw that I was using to cut arcs in wet pressure treated wood for a fancy deck. The other three were Dremel rotary tools. All were only a few months old. I burned two up using a sanding drum extensively. The other, I was cutting drywall for electric boxes and can lights when it burned up.
Dremel rotary tools also aren't very well balanced and have a lot of run-out.
Sure. Won't get you too far and just a few days ago someone posted a video of there's melting down after trying some aluminum. It will let you do some learning in HD foam and less dense woods like pine.
Lots of details in the forums just search "dremel".
I've downloaded the files for 25mm version, the files are marked with "F". I've printed Lock_CornerF2.stl and it doesn't fit on 25mm pipe. It is clearly too loose. The measurements show tha the parts have 25,4mm of inner diameter. What is wrong? Are these the wrong files???
I would verify the calibration of your printer. These files have been verified thousands of times. Most actually complain of too tight of a fit.
For faster replies, you can post in the forums.
Thanks for your answer. I'll head to the forum next time. My printer is Zortrax M200, I've used original Z-PETG material. Ever heard of such problems with this equipment?
PLA is suggested for it's dimensional stability. A quick calibration print will tell you all kinds of info. Like I said tight is generally the only complaint so I am guessing your printer is off.
My investigation shows that my printer is too accurate ;)
Considering the part "Lock_CornerF2.stl":
The stl model inner diameter is 25,37mm (measured in FreeCAD)
My printer printed 25,35mm
Outer diameter of the stl model is 39,17mm
My printer printed 39,15mm
If these models are printed of PLA and they fit, then my conclusion is, that PLA isn't that dimension accurate as people say.
As PLA is not a material that I find suitable for a workshop environment, I'll have to investigate all dimensions before printing.
Mystery solved :)
You are asking about the "F" version of this part in the "C" part page? Again, I much prefer the forums as things like this make it confusing here. This thread is even getting out of order.
The actual dimensions are, 25.4mm ID and 39.2mm OD. The part should fit, no one has ever had a problem with too loose, all filament types have been used. You printer seems to print spot on (a perfect circle at 25.35?), how is the metal? If you can't get this simple piece to work without scaling I would not recommend proceeding. Scaling things will not end well for the more precision parts.
I am not sure what to say the "F" parts I am and have been shipping are averaging 25.3mm and no issues ever. Yours are .05mm larger I can't see that being and issue. With the screw and nut you can't get it to clamp?
I'm printing some objects to control dimensions. Thanks for your time and for your work on this project ofcourse :) I'm really looking forward to building your machine to get to know CNC programming. Then I'll be converting my "classic" lathe and mill to CNC :)
hi i plan to build one . how many will cost the all machine when i print all my self ? thanks
I am planning to build the MPCNC with a 24" by 24" working area and using the Bosch Colt (PR20EVS) as my spindle. I am looking for a little advice before I start printing the parts. It appears that you have the designs for both 3/4" and 1" emt conduit which are both readily available where I live. Is there any reason that I should choose one over the other? I searched your forums and other places, but did not find any recommendations on which to use. Thanks.
That is not correct.
1" conduit does not fit. If you are in the US 3/4" conduit fits the 23.5mm version. Other countries are spec'd differently.
Use whatever size is available in your country, I made 3 versions to cover the entire globes needs. More info on the FAQ's page, Specs page, and parts page as well as the printed parts page.
Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking that the 25.4mm version would fit the US 1" conduit, but after some further research the OD for 1" conduit is 29.5mm. I will go with the 3/4". I am looking forward to seeing what this thing can do.
I tried to note that on any page that mentions the sizes. I will look through them again to see what I missed.
Here is an engraved picture. Used 1/8" bits. Too many for many details
I made one. Thanks for the briliant design. Here are some videos showing it's working.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4Lefqx3lc1c
have anybody convert files to different size tube, i no found 25 or 25,4mm tube my hardware shop, has only 20,5 or 30,5mm tube, what all need draw new can use different size tube ???
how if make scale funtion whit sketchup program what is how make right scale new parts biggest tube, i think i buy 30mm OD tube because other no have at hardware. how calculate factory scale ?
You are looking for EMT conduit, it is usually sold by the Inner Diameter, so for example this 23.5mm set fit 3/4" EMT. You need to go to the hardware store and physically measure. The three sizes I have released fit every corner of the globe, at least no one has made you comment in 2 years or so.
If you can't find any come to the forums and someone near you will point you to where they found theirs.
There is also stainless steel tubing sold by the outer diameter, and that is very common in 25mm and 1" OD.
yes i has at to hardware shop thai watsadu only has my city. and i has digital measure too i looking all tubes what shop have and not have 25mm OD anywere, stainless steel or black metal or elektric wire cover tube all i looking but no have anywere, ans some little shop at city i looking too not have, i think better if can convert drawing to real right tube what i can buy, thailand have proplamtic anythink parts, no have acryl sheet, no have aluminium sheet, all plywood have only 1-4mm no more .but i move living here 6 month before and stay :(
same first i think make aluminium profile frame to cnc but i looking all shop 2 week at city but anywere not have alu profile, only wery thin windows alu profile have some shop. but have different and not strong all wery thin alum, same i looking house roof sheet, wery thin can cut kitchen skissors this metal hehehe finland/europe normal roof sheet no can cut metal skissor too need machine cut sheet, this is horriple country to builder and hobby builder too no have anythink, junkle monkey country.
It takes more than two weeks worth of work to make a new tube size set of parts and the tube to verify it fits. I am sorry but that is not possible.
Can you just order it online?
If you ask in the forums someone close can surely ship you some. Thingiverse comments rarely get seen by anyone other than me. The forums are the place for you to get a larger response.
ok,thanks for you, newermind i looking more different frame if have metal my city, sguare tube cnc or etc. i make now big cnc but i think this is good to vinyl cutter cnc or other little parts, pcb etc, printer have too little make vinyl or pcb, frame not strong. anet a8. newermind, thanks lot. i looking later what i make.
new country thailand have big proplem all normal parts shopping hahaha shop sellers have too idiots all, not know what have acryl sheet or no know what sell, wery stupid many peoples, newer at europe see same.
Hey, I just found a guy selling drawings of the MPCNC. He uses some of your pictures, but is selling it as his own design, he even changed the name. If he took the time to make the drawings I could maybe justify it, but the fact that he even changes the name. Credit where credit is due.
Dang, Thank you so much for pointing this out.
That is the very first one I released and those are my assembly drawings as well. Those parts are two and a half years old, I immediate released a revision a few weeks later. What a punk.
I have a special account on mercado libre because of these kinds of dudes. Thank you so much for pointing it out. It should be down in a few hours I hope.
No problem, I hate it when people do things like this. I have designed my own machines and I can really understand the time, effort and attention to detail it takes for these kinds of designs. I´m removing the link from the original comment.
Mercado libre is the worst to deal with the first time this happened it took 3-4 weeks to get it removed. Once that happened I was registered and have a PPPI login for all countries they operate in. I logged in a submit my complaint.
I then had to submit a violation with youtube as well, he took my video and re-uploaded it.
The worst part is he is selling what is free here and on my site...scumbag, could have just linked it in a forum somewhere but no he made $10 on each link.
The first comment on his questions was you I guess? I liked it.
I get soooooooo pissed off by this stuff and I really shouldn't but dam, now I know why I have had so many Spanish questions lately.
Yup, that was me. The seller was even cynical with his answer.
Hello Allted, this is a very good work, thank you very much. I need the drawings of the pieces and the assambly of the machine, this for a class in school, if you can help me it would be very nice. Thank you
That is an incredibly tall request. Please see the FAQ's on the site about this sort of request.
I can't imagine a class wanting you to provide technical drawings for a machine you did not design?
You can do this yourself with the stl's in a CAD program.
Hello, thank you very much for your excellent work. I would appreciate it if you could put a version for Nema 23 engines or the original files so I can modify them.
Both of those have been addressed in detail here, https://www.vicious1.com/frequently-asked-questions/
Great project! Your design was really clever.
Can you provide the .step files? I am trying to build a slightly different CNC and the STEP files would help a lot to verify the assembly. Thanks.
Sorry. I explain this in the FAQ's page.
I just saw it and understood your position :-)
Cool! Glad it makes sense.
would it be able to hold a more powerful spindle lets say i dont know 1.5kw-2.5kw? too heavy maybe?
A few people have done it.
What we normally use is 600W and plenty powerful. I would say 1500W-2500W is kind of a waste of money. I know they make those spindles smaller, I would say 800W would be a better choice for overkill.
i want to upgrade just the middle assembly of the CNC as the new one looks way better. Will the old Z axis construction fit in the new middle assembly?
Haven't heard form you in a while! I see those nice pictures you took of your build pop up all the time.
No you need to replace the entire center set of parts. I am sure you will be very happy with the upgrade, it is worth it and noticeable.
yeah i've been here and there :) Yes i saw they do rang high in google search, my pinterest account has a few pictures that are re pinned a number of times, so maybe because of that.
I am now printing the last XY part and ill then have all to the middle part and the top of the Z axis . Just wondering if the makita mount i made for the old version https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1102618 will fit on the new Z axis. As i wount be needing the universal tool mount, ill just have this on all the time, and dont want to redesign it :(
It won't fit but it isn't far off so you would't have to redesign it probably only change 1 dimension, the rails are just a bit further apart, if you don't want to use my mount.
yeah it was some way's off :) luckily i found a design for the new version that i adjusted for my needs with the dust shoe, but i had to take a dremel to it then, to make it fit :) Also the Makita just barely goes past the nuts of the middle assemblies and i did not want to dremel it :)
I just did a quick test on foam yesterday when i put it all together and it seems to run fine, also love how strong the middle part and the Z assembly is now. Need to test it out on some ply wood.
I usually cut ply wood on 300mm / min and 2mm depth, do you think this design can go faster?
Start there and I would say try deeper instead of faster first, use peel or adaptive for your pockets. The Cam is getting so good now. I put up a video a while ago I think 9mm deep at 12mm/s in pine, plywood will be much slower but deeper passes ("high speed machining") is where it's at for the MPCNC.
thanks for the heads up. Will let you know how it goes.
Have anyone made an empty adapter for the current tool mount in Openscad?
If so, can you upload the .scad file?
I need it to design an adapter for an chocolate extruder.
Thanks for the reply.
With the plan i can design one in Openscad.
But what means R35.
I guess it describes the radius of the circle - with 35mm to the center?
What is the diameter of the holes 2.5mm?
If you open the part you should be able to verify all the dimensions. You should not need the drawing.
Hello. What is the recommended tube size or does it really not matter at all? I plan to machine aluminium so I would like it to be rigid as possible. I'm assuming 25.4mm version but thought I'd check.... thanks
Make it as small as possible. that is far more important than tube size.https://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/
Thanks. I've gone for 25mm as thats whats easily available from my local Screwfix in the UK. Don't plan to have a build volume more than 500mm. Is this ok for aluminium? Thanks
Please use the forums for questions so more people can offer there opinions.
If I knew my main goal was aluminum I would make it much smaller, most aluminum cuts are only a few inches. The smaller the machine the faster you can cut and in metal that makes a huge difference.
voted on instructables, seen this pop up in my emails on the new instructables. AWESOME!!
There's someone on Instructables that posted this design, and is asking for votes in their 1st Time Author contest.
I voted there are actually two categories.
i have completed you r build. thanks for the design. do you mean the tension bolts still need to be loose even after assembling the z axis. how tight should be the roller bearings in he middle part exert against the z axis pipes. for mine, the lower two bearings are not touching the z axis conduits. if tight them it destroys the play on the axis. iam using the universal tool mount which slides different tools, Is it be an issue? do i need to add only your tool mount to get the toterances . pls comment
Visiting this again, mostly because I want some more rigidity for my DW660. I have an older verison of the MPCNC built well over a year ago. Do I need to upgrade everything or is it possible to do just the Z gantry? Then the X/Y motor mounts and rollers later? The corners are my last priority as my current ones are pretty solid right now.
If you are using the "c" version you can do the entire center including the Z assembly, If you are using another size you need to update the corners.
Another huge update is the rollers the new motor mounts are much better.
Great! Thanks for the quick response. I am using the 23.5mm version, I'm going to start working on the entire center assembly first and if the rollers are a huge update as well I'll work on those next.
CAN I BUIT THIS WITH THE Y AXIS RAILS BEEN HIGHER THAN THE DEFAULT X AXIS. IS THERE ANY PRACTICAL DIFFICULTIES ASSOCIATED WITH THIS SETUP. BECAUSE IAM PLANNING TO MOUNT THE ELECTRONICS IN THE SIDE SO I NEED SOME SPACE BENEATH THE SIDE ( Y RAILS)... PLS ADVICE...
You can use it in any orientation you want.
i intend tô build a cutting área of 1300mm x 1000mm with 6kg spindle and 12kg Nema 23 engine, with a T5 belt
Seriously? the cutting area will probably be ok, but NEMA 23 steppers are complete overkill for this design, they'd probably just tear things apart, and that weight of spindle is what I'd expect on a full size machine, not one of these. Personally, if I had those parts laying around, I'd just buckle down and get the frame for one of the Openbuilds C-Beam kits, they're designed for those kind of specs.
Please ask questions in the forums.
I have no idea what to say to that, other than I built a machine that works very well, and you want to go against all of my design choices. I can't possibly tell you how it is going to work.
On your page you say we should use a 12v 5a power supply, while all the stepper motors together would use 10a, wouldn't this burn the power supply?
How are you getting that number?
Convert that to watts and look at it again. Even while moving all axis and heating up a hot end I can't get it to draw over 38 Watts.
Yep, that makes sense, Thanks!
Really cool project, I saw this on a minimakerfaire and am now planning to build my own, Instead of a router I am considering using a cheap spindle, and might modify a soldering iron to cut foam boards. Great work!
Can't wait to see it, post your build progress in the forums!
Amazing Design!! Thank you so much
I was lucky ordering everything today and got 11% Discount on almost every part at Banggood;
Im happy to assemble it soon!
Great design. Is the universal mount the same accross the three different variants? (e.g. 23.5, 25 and 25.4) I am interested in using an add-on for the universal mount that was designed for the 25.4 mm while I have the 25mm version.
If the tool mount says a size it was probably designed for the old parts, most of the new ones will say "525" in the title or description. old mounts will have two small round protrusions to screw directly into the conduit, new parts will just have a open "W" shape to fit the new style universal.
This was a great and fun build. I still have a lot to learn regarding the software and some cleanup for the wires but I can't wait to see this thing in full action. Having some slight problems with the z axis causing the stepper to make some noise. I suspect too much tension on the parts so I have to loosen things up a bit, maybe oil the bearings? Otherwise the assembly was pretty easy.
Firmware installation was easy, confirmation of function using Marlin axis stepping worked fine.
Ordered your stepper wire harness, hoping it will arrive soon. In the mean time I'm printing some cable chains.
Thank you so much for posting this.
Mail goes out in a few hours.
You should not have to oil your bearings, make sure everything is as loose as possible and only snug it up if you are seeing some errors. Best place to ask questions is in the forums and I have tons of software information on the site as well.
i could'nt source any m3.5 bolts and nylocknuts . only m3 and m4 is available. which one is most suitable... pls inform...
If you can't find them online, then there is lots of information about this in the forums. Either work but both have drawbacks.
i have seen in your site calculator the default z height as 4 inches. CAN I MAKE THE Z HEIGHT INTO 3 INCHES .will there be any problems with that setup. my plan is to use the machine as a CNC ROUTER AND PLOTTER ONLY.
initially the router tool may be one dremel like rotary tool and if iam not satisfied with that my plan is to buy a 500 w spindle. please suggest..eager to build your design...
Yes, the shorter the better
Pls tell the model no of the steppers you are using. I am confused with two steppers, the 17hs8401(73 Oz inch, 1.8 amp) and 17hs8402 ( 73 oz inch, 1.3 amp).
Another option is the 17hs4401(57 Oz inch, 1.7 amp) which is somewhat cheaper than the other two.
My work materials are mainly wood and occasional aluminium.
If you have a look at the site i give stepper specs. Anything 42oz/in and above is fine.
would it be able to hold a spindle of 1,5kw ,110v?
can anyone tell me the total height of the machine. i want to build it but my room is already crowded. iam planning to put this under the cot when it is not used. the cot height is 10 inches. pls any one let me know
Depends on what size you make it, but the minimum s would probably 12" tall
This is awesome! But I can't decide between this, the R-CNC and the root CNC. Can anyone help me out? At the end of the day, I want to cut the fastest and do some light aluminum work. I've heard the other two might be better at that. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
I'm not sure if anybody has any direct experience with all three machines. I'm sure all three of them will get you where you want to go though without any huge differences
Just found this video that shows some pretty amazing capabilities of the MPCNC:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVbgnNDuzdI
Definitely making me lean towards the MPCNC, especially since the build seems simpler and more straightforward than the other two. Just an awesome design. Plus you already sourced all the parts :)
Is this type of relief/3D work something I can expect with the MPCNC? I can't really find other similar examples, even in the mountain of info out there.
Yes this is a common use, it is 3D milling (technically 2.5D). Most of us do it by opening an stl file in Estlcam. Since this video was made improvements have been made to the machine so something like this can be accomplished faster now as we can drive the Z axis faster.
Have a look at the gallery, https://www.vicious1.com/videos/gallery/
Has anyone ever used an MPCNC to cut polycarbonate? If so, what were the results?
I believe there's a few examples in the gallery on the site. But there's nothing particularly Difficult about polycarb
Hello, do you think is it possible to use Proxxon fbs 240?
I’d appreciate some help on the router. I can’t source the recommended Router in Germany and I dont want to source the 52mm spindle from China (Customs, delivery dates and such..)
So I found this Makita 3907 Router with 30000 rpm and 530 w
Do you think its usable for the MPCNC
Thanks for your Help.
Buy a Katsu Router. Its a Chinese Makita Clone around 35-40$ and Speed ist adjustable from 10k RPM to 20k RPM. I think 30k RPM is to fast for CNC milling. Yo want to produce chips and not dust!. But a +600Watt CNC Spindle with Speedcontroller will be allways better for milling and your ears.
Thanks. I think i'll go with the katsu.
I don't know how much shipping is for you but you can get a used dewalt 660 on ebay for $35. They might ship it to you.
What drill bits would you recommend purchasing for cutting a 1.5mm carbon fiber plate? I have the dewalt 660. What fume extractor or fan would you suggest for the carbon dust?
You don't want to take chances with CF, best to keep it wet or even cut it in water. Lots of videos available on this. Most any bit will work there is nothing particularly crazy about CF other than the fact that it dulls the tool more quickly than other materials. I have a bit in the shop that is designed for it though.https://vicious1-com.myshopify.com/collections/sharp-stuff/products/1-8-carbide-chip-breaker
If you want more information please ask your questions in the forum. It helps to spread the knowledge.https://www.vicious1.com/forum/
Great thanks I'l buy one later. Also I am sourcing all my own parts and am having an issue with finding these parts, I am going in between the parts page you have and the product listing for your premade kit. On the page for your kit it says
1 T8 Leadscrew
1 Brass T8 Nut
1 Aluminum coupler
So the t8 leadscrew is this? http://bit.ly/2t84XgO
So then what is the t8 nut? I found this http://bit.ly/2t8OSI, looks exactly the same?
Aluminum coupler, is it this? 5/16 x 7/8 coupling nut
Also I can't find M3.5 nyloc nuts, I found every other piece of metric hardware for $50 though.
I'm having trouble with my gcode. It seems to be fine, except the machine is moving extremely slowly. I have it set to 60mm/min cutting speed.
I added the G94 command manually. It is slow whether I have that command or not.
60mm/min=1mm/s it is very slow.
I do not recognise what g94 is, what did you add it for?
And I am not sure what post processor you are using, what version and from where?
Please post answers to this in the forums, I much prefer to answer questions there where it is much more beneficial to the whole community.
I have the old version of MPCNC. The new tool mount is slightly too big to fit on it. Do you have the old mount for a Dewalt DW660?
This should be it, let me know.https://www.dropbox.com/s/du7g6gddc9qmlod/dw660.zip?dl=0
You have had your MPCNC for a long time right? You might have been one of the early ones to take a chance?
Either way I remember the screen name, glad to hear you still have it and are using it. If your printer has some down time the new parts are a pretty big difference.
What kind of big difference? As in robustness?
Thank you so much for the files and quick response time :) I'm printing them now.
Awesome so glad to hear you have stuck with it.
Yeah the new 525 update, center and z axis assemblies are more rigid and tend to be much more square as well as buy you a little more clearance. The new rollers/motor mounts are way more rigid. Corners are better but not super drastic. The new 660 mount is a bit more rigid as well.
If you do find some time to do the update, they are two matched sets at least the center and z axis all have to be done together, and then the rollers have to be done all four at the same time.
But if yours is still working well why bother?
I also have an older version of the MPCNC that I built maybe 1 - 1.5 years ago; Is there any extra hardware needed transferring over to the new 525 update? May not update tomorrow but it would be a nice option later on.
That makes more sense now. There has been a few builds lately with the old parts. I was getting worried someone is out there selling them ripping people off wasting our time and money.
Besides almost every single plastic part being updated I kept everything as similar as I could, the bare minimum to update is on the site but really it 5 new bolts. off the top of my head 4x4" 1x5", please verify the dimensions before you buy them, I can't remember it was more than a year ago.
Maybe this is a stupid question as it can cut aluminum, but can it cut acrylic? Also, are there any assembly instructions?
Plastic is no problem at all.
There is a whole website, with all the info you need. This is just the file repository.
instructions - https://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
some plastic milling - https://www.vicious1.com/videos/gallery/
Has anyone tested the x,y and z resolution accuracy? I am interested in hearing how well this setup performs 3d prints.
It will vary greatly depending on your build volume. Every build will be different. It uses all the same electronics as a majority of the available 3D printers so it will be very similar if you build it with a shorter Z axis. Because of the larger moving mass it will be slower though, a trade off for a larger XY.
Thanks for quick reply. I will likely make this one next winter's project.
Is anyone aware of an E3D Chimera/Cyclops attachment? I could try making one, but I would prefer to use one that is already made. Some quick searches have not come up with a design, so I figured that I would ask.
I have not seen one. I am the only one that gets these notifications, the forums would be a better place to ask.
I Think most people that want multiple filament have stopped using multiple heads and went to the Prusa system, it is much easier to use.
Cool, thank you, I will! :-)
Yeah, I have been eying such systems. Though, it seems like it wouldn't work so well for differing materials. Even so, it is definitely on my list. :-)
Hi, The second spindle you recommend is out of stock and looks like this one is the equivalent, is that right? https://www.amazon.com/Spindle-Cooled-Milling-Converter-Engraving/dp/B01LNBOCDA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1494018817&sr=1-1&keywords=500W+spindle
Also, what are the major differences when using a Dewalt or the above spindle? What would be the major improvements when using the more expensive option? Any recommendation for someone just getting started with CNC?
If you can get a dewalt 660 in your country it is recommended. If not come have a look in the forums on the site and see what is common in your part of the world.
That spindle will work but is kind of always the backup plan.
That's great, I'm in the US so getting the Dewalt will be easy. I'm planning to cut some sheets of metals like aluminum and carbon fiber, is it possible with this machine? Thanks in advance.
Thanks a lot!
I am ready to wire it up but I don't understand why we cross one pair of the four wires. Why not wire half pf one stepper in reverse instead of the whole stepper? If is a stepper is wired in half clockwise and half counter clockwise doesn't each half cancel each other out?
If you crossed both you would be reversing a reverse meaning same direction.
Have a look at the wiring page again, We have been using series now for a while, no more parallel.
Questions are also best asked on the forums.
Im seeing people assembly this on line and they are using washers over the bearings. I did not see them listed in the parts. Is that something they are adding? This guy for example https://youtu.be/mri-6v6uIMo if I add them do I need them for all bearings?
That was the old design. It is now new and improved!
Are these the right size bearings? "608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased "
Those are the right size but the 2RS are the recommended ones.
I was looking at these, I could use the leftovers for spinners for the kids.https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0045F48WC/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new
I received these, thinking the same thing. $33 shipped. It was from CA and I'm in the US, so shipping was fast too.
Happy camper, but mine have yellow seals. Nearly all of my MPCNC parts are red. I hate McDonalds...
Can I use ABS for all parts?
I tried printing a few parts for my first-gen machine with ABS, and it just doesn't have the dimensional accuracy that PLA and PETG do. Most of my machine is printed in PETG with some PLA bits for things like the rollers.
You could, but most people have dimensional issues with it. PETG seems to hold dimensions better than ABS but PLA is still usually the most accurate and what I recommend.
hi i just have question about the driver, the machine using 2 nema17 for y or y axis( total 4) and each motor is 2a so the driver a4988 need to support 4a?
Wire them in series and you do not add the amps needed.
I also do not recommend the a4988. Please have a look at the parts page for the recommended list.
Before I torture myself with estimating costs on this, has anyone put together an estimated build cost for this project? Price may depend on the configuration... I'd be configuring mine to do wood CNC and possibly aluminum CNC work. I'm wondering if anyone has done the build and could make an estimate of actual spent costs.
One thing I've noticed in other estimates of projects are items that "cost $0.00" because I had this or that part lying around. I doubt I have any components lying around so I'd need a real estimate. Thank you for any help out there.
Do you mean vs. what I sell them for?
hi, i have some problem with motor wiring that i hope someone can solve for me. the proble i have is when i connect 2 nema17 motor together, i manually spin 1 motor and other motor is spining opposite direction but sometime it not spin. the motor is same type the wiring is correct i just dont know because i using psu current too slow or not.( im using 12v 2a psu) thanks
Just cross one pair of the four wires on the second Motor for parallel wiring Mode. You can check the pairs with a Multimeter.
A 2 Amp. PSU may a bit to low? I use a 5A PSU but for just 2 Motors at the same Time 2A should be enough.
i already check with the multimeter for the pair. i try to spin the motor by hand without power but i get the same problem so i think that i need more power source.
HI, I just finished my build and am using vcarve, what toolpath format should I be saving files as for Repetier?
Hi I am having a hard time trying to figure out the name of the piece that the x,y stepper motors mount to. I am trying to print black/ silver like in some of your pictures shown on viscious1.
What is used as an mid span support? Is there a 3D print file out there where I can use a piece of conduit for to make another leg in the middle without obstructing the part that rolls over the conduit?
There are 3 different design here on thingiverse for supports.
Have you seen my Lowrider CNC? It is made for larger things.
I just checked it out.. so far no support for 25mm tube I see. 25.4mm is a bit hard to find here. I found this for support so far: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1160962/#made
The lowrider cnc looks just like it's name suggest very low to the table. Won't this impact the depth you can cut significantly?
I want to make the all printed cnc with 1500mm length chrome tubes in X and Y . I managed to source all the bolts and ball bearings for the mpcnc. Apreciate your time to respond btw!
The lowrider does look very awsome though. is it rigid enough for aluminum? 1500mm is quite large but I think it would still be quite managable with the frame right?
Edit: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1969520 found this. I will be going for this. Thank you!
Any tube size support will work. There are more just search mpcnc supports on here.
1500mm on the mpcnc will not be milling aluminum. Chrome tubes, probably not.
The LowRider CNC is always shown at its lowest position, it can go pretty high, and can also have a smaller table.
You are asking some questions that seem like you should read through the site FAQ's. Please ask any following questions in the forum so others can see them. These have all been answered and tried and others could really offer advice.
First congratulations to you printer/cnc success story.. Big fan,.. that is the reason why I also like to build one finally..
Aluminium 3mm is better than 2 mm steel?
It should be lighter and more rigid!?
Would it not the best than to make the
moving portal Tubes, from Aluminium too?
i´m right? Or would be stainless stell tubing better? I´don´t care to pay 5 euros more if the machine is more stable. Your recommendations?
Stainless steel or Aluminium tube?
Aluminium - 25mm - 3mm wallhttp://www.ebay.de/itm/321306335780?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=510222480881&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Stainless steel - 25mm - 2mm wallhttp://www.ebay.de/itm/Edelstahl-Rohr-Edelstahlrohr-Rundrohr-V2A-geschliffen-Auspuff-Pfosten-Gelander-/262845229277?var=&hash=item3d32cbe8dd:m:mdIqmiO0stp8I6ZA0fww92g
Even more expensive,.. I had in mind Aluminium is more expensive but stronger…
Nemas are already here :) Soon I can start..
Thanks for the compliments.
Most have found aluminum can not take the extremely high point load from the bearings. If you try it out let us know how it goes in the forums. I Have some aluminum to try but even thinner walled steel gets easily deformed so I did not want to ruin my aluminum.
Thanks for your answer..
Before I get into this project, what is the expected overall cost of this little CNC? I think it can help others plan this ahead of time.
I need help with the universal mount.
I downloaded the latest one from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999 (Part name: C-ToolMount.STL). However, i built my MPCNC (23.5mm EMT's) using the old files back in January 2016. However, i didn't get time to work on MPCNC more. I decided to fire things up this month and i downloaded the universal tool mount and it does not fit between the Z-axis conduits of my old Z-axis assembly parts (which incorporates http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:931550). So, now I do not want to scale the new universal tool mount part down as then other add-ons out there would not fit on it.
Any suggestions? I think i have two options:
Make a custom universal mount for the machine i printed a year back (How do i make custom parts, could you please help or provide reference from the old MPCNC design?), or
Overall, I want to use a universal tool mount for primarily a 5.5W laser i just received as well as a Makita 3700B router i have lying around.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you (and Many thanks to Allted)
It doesn't fit and you can't scale it. The new parts are a matched set you have to replace them all.
Your other option is to just download mounts that fit your machine. Any that I made would be labeled -old-.
If you need something else you should ask in the forums way more people in there, I am the only one that gets notified about these comments.
Great Build. Been using mine for a few months now and still going strong. Good work Sir.
I just started printing m parts. Wish me luck..
Throw a bit my way. I'm about to dive in, myself.
Has anyone engraved on leather using this thing? I've been wanting to build this for a while and finally scrapped together the cash for everything and want to do the laser mod first. Any tips from anyone out there who has done this already?
Yes, karltinsly in the forums and on youtube laser etched a design and I believe then cut them out with it.http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/20x30-inch-build/
Thank you for all of your hard work on this project. I'm really looking forward to building this as my next project.
does anyone have a decent e3d direct drive for the 525 version?
A super cool way to use an e3d would be a very short bowden. Mount the hotend where it should go and mount the pusher on the center assembly. That would be an ideal setup.
I'm impressed. Can't wait.
I have a few questions.. How would I go about asking questions on your site in the future? The drop down navigation menu wouldn't work. How would you go about supporting longer runs of the x and y axis? What screen did you use? Thank you for your time. You've been great.
This is all found on the site in the FAQ's mostly.
Everything should work, I checked in two browsers on both PC and Mobile.
Ordered the motors.. Would this kit work for the board/drivers? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HT1K7E6/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1481101416&sr=8-17&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ramps+1.4&dpPl=1&dpID=61Eho-63psL&ref=plSrch
I'm wondering exactly the same thing, was looking at this kit last night!
The only difference is this kit uses the A4988 drivers instead of the recommended DRV8825. The difference is the DRV8825 will allow more current and also up to 1/32 stepping vs 1/16 on the A4988. Might not be a noticeable difference, but 1/32 in theory is smoother.
so, sounds like it would work, but lower resolution cutting, which I'm pretty fine with.
That or if you find the A4988 aren't giving enough torque. Worse case a set of 5 drv8825 is about $12-13 on amazon.
It will all work. You will need to edit my firmware though to the correct steps for each axis.
Questions are best asked in the forums so it is more easily searched.
And that is a different screen also a firmware edit. You should be able to find a bundle with the recommended stuff to just make it easier on yourself.
I bought a CNC kit (Motors, board, and power supply) a while back. It came with nema 23's. Is there a set of files available that would mount 23's instead of 17's? Thanks for your time. This I truly a great project.
Thanks for the kind words.
Sorry 23's are not supported anymore. They were in the first version just in case power was an issue. turns out is wasn't. The only thing that might work is using stand offs and mounting them backwards with an adapter plate.
Really though 17's are plenty strong, not too expensive, and more importantly less moving mass. All your components should work just fine with 17's.
Hey I'm getting ready to start printing everything, and I was wondering if you had some sort of list which tells me which color to print each part. I'm trying to copy your color theme of black and red, but I'm not sure which part to print which color and it's really hard to hunt down some of the parts in the picture.
Sorry I used to have the parts list color coordinated but I started to take it off it was causing to much confusion.
Is there anywhere where I can still find the list? or if possible can you make a simple list?
You'll notice 2 color text.
You the man!!! Was that there yesterday? or did you just put that cause I don't remember seeing that yesterday. Black is black and gray is red?
It was there. I just didn't have all of them color coded.
Hi, very nice work !
I have a problem, I live in France and I have print the 23.5 version but I cant found conduit at this size in my country...
Can you give me the website where I can buy the tubes of 23.5 please.
I do think that you can found it here: https://vicious1-com.myshopify.com/collections/bundles/products/mostly-printed-cnc-parts-bundle
or here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-EMT-Conduit-101550/100400406
Thanks but Homedepot does not deliver, and i am in france...
Essaye Castorama ou Lroy Merlin
Sinon si tu est frontalier essaye Globus Baumarkt en Allemagne ou en suisse
It is 3/4" ID emt conduit. I can't help shop from the US but I would assume you can find it online ebay, amazon or something. Half the globe uses this size.
I in need of some help.
I have made a 100mm square square test cut to check the accuracy of of my mpcncs. It's exporting correctly from my design program. I made a grid of the exact same size in Estlecam to verify the size in estlecam. Then use repetier to create gcode. However when I cut it its not perfectly square. More of a rectangle. It's off by 2mm. Any ideas why this this is happening?
Can you post in the troubleshooting forum on the site and answer the sticky questions. You haven't narrowed it down enough to help at this point it could be a lot of things.
Start by double checking all your pulleys are the same number of teeth. It happens...
Can i use the same marlin firmware as 3d printer and cnc?
Without changing the firmware configuration
All the info is on the site, vicious1.com
I made all you ask in estlCam Basics but when i put in the repetier the crown was so small after i scale it in estlCam
What is the problem?
Thank for you fast reply
I didn't find it can you game me a name to search or the url
That's just it. You can use marlin, you don't have too.
The whole thing is super open to all edits size, hardware,software, ect.
Here is the marlin link from the home page, http://www.vicious1.com/marlin-firmware/
Also see the FAQ, and the software section
I'm printing the parts now
Can you recommend gcode converter program?
Can this machine cut 4mm carbon fiber sheet? How about 4mm acrylic sheet?
Amazing! I am going to build it, I only need to find out where I am going to store it :P
What material would be advised for the rails, has it to be steel or would aluminum be enough? I'm planing on a Size of 60x60cm
Just wondering if the universal tool mount on this machine fits the "OG" style MPCNC. I want to switch to a universal tool mount but I'm pretty happy with my machine and not ready to upgrade the whole middle section yet. If this won't work then I'll try HicWics old universal mount. Very nice job as always Allted!
No sorry the new tool mount does not fit on the previous middle assembly.
Finally got my MPCNC put together, that was a very fun build, and thank you to Allted for his matermind design. Now that I have it together Im having some strange things happen with Estlcam, and was wondering if someone can help me out. I am trying to carve out a basic wood sign (about 2mm letter depth) as a test. I am importing my svg file into Estlcam from Inkscape and creating toolpaths using the engrave tool, my settings are set up like those on Allted's site as well. I save the CNC Program and put it into my machine via SD (using Full LCD only, no Repetier, Pronterface, etc) Before I start the machine I set it to where I want the origin to be (X, Y, and Z) then turn the machine on I goto Print from SD and here is where the fun begins.... The toolhead moves approx 6 inches in X and 6 in Y away from my origin and then starts the carve/engrave. The Z is a little funky to, but Im not sure its the same type of issue (somehting tells me its tool settings or something). Also the engraving/carve is backwards on the workpiece, I found a way to get around this by flipping the drawing in Estlcam, but I would prefer to not have to do this if possible. Thank you in advance, Im going to put this in the forum as well in case anyone else runs into problems (easier to find on there)
You need to set your origin closer to the cut in estlcam, and flip the plug on your ramps board to reverse your axis.
These are best answered in the forums.
Can this be used for the 3D printing?
yup lots of videos on youtube of this, search mpcnc
Can I use A4988 stepper controllers (already have them on hand) instead of the DRV8825s? If so what changes do I need to make in the firmware? Any disadvantage/advantage using the A4988s? Thanks
Maybe. You could be drawing too much current with the motors being wired in parallel. The DRV8825s are high current drivers. I think Allted selected these because he planned to wire the motors in parallel. If you want to use A4988s, maybe look at the Black version of those drivers. They're supposed to have about 20% more capacity in output current than the standard A4988.
I gave up and just got DRV8825s instead, thanks though :)
where do you buy the metal tubing?
I got myn at Home Depot, they had a bunch so I sorted through it to find the straightest pieces was less than $12 US for 30 feet.
Hardware store steel emt conduit, or some nice stainless steel tubing usually online or at a metal supplier.
Have anyone come across this or used it in they build?
I've been watching alot of videos. What determine the Precision of the CNC and the resolution? Is this down to the stepping motor used?
You aren't going to like this.
Everything effects the accuracy. The resolution is theoretically double most 3D printers (because of 32nd stepping vs average 16), but you can't go on those numbers at all.
Physical size of the machine and each axis, smaller is better, Z axis is most critical.
How well you built it.
The rigidity of your table.
The rigidity of your rails used.
The accuracy/run out of your tool/spindle.
The accuracy/run out of your cutting bit and are you using the right kind.
How well you clamped your material.
What material you are using.
Knowledge of your Cam software and how you approach your cuts.
And the big ones, feeds and speeds.
what would you think is a good desired work height for z axis would 300 mm be ok for 3d printing and cutting aluminum? what size did you build you cnc in?
Nope, have a look at the FAQ's on the site.
Most 3D printers are under 200mm on the Z axis. I never print more than 120mm.
3d printing and milling aluminum are on exact opposite ends of the spectrum of this machine and don't mix well.
do you think 130mm on z axis would be fine?
Look like I need to read more on CNC, to gget abetter understanding before I build one.
Hope to use the device for both CNC and 3D printing. I'll look into the 32nd stepping.
Just think of it like any other 3d printer. Most have very similar specs and the exact same electronics.
I got the ok from the Mrs. to pick up the electronic hardware kit on your site. A couple things though, I may have to email, but this allows others to see if they have the same question:
I am doing some fairly large pieces for biotech applications and I think your initial dimension set up 30 x 30 will work fine. I may need 12 - 18" on the Z which I am hoping won't sacrifice too much on the stability. I will most likely upgrade to the stainless steel as you recommended.
I have my printers set up on UPS systems so if I lose power I don't lose prints. Can you recommend a setup for me that would allow me to directly input SD card to print from? I would also need a LCD screen to navigate through jobs. Cura does a good job with the gCode settings that I care about.
Since I talked to you last, what Extruder / Hotend do you recommend? Also the fan mounts and all that?
Yes, I will be doing mostly 3d printing on this.
As always, you are awesome!
The forum is a little better for question, it is more easily searchable, but this is fine as well.
1-I don't think you are going to get any kind of reasonable prints at 18". If you want to try use a bowden based system with the pusher mounted on the xyz piece. Sorry That is just super long stickout.
2-All the reprap lcd have a cd card port for remote printing. I have one available from the site that the ramps board you are getting is pre-flashed to work with.
3-There are not many bad ones out there. But depending on your material of choice some are better than others. With a bowden that long, you won't be printing flexible filaments. But I print 95% PLA so I prefer non-all metal hotends, But if you use a J-head mount you can easily switch hotends.
4-You say that now....cough cough laser cough
5-Afew out there already. There is a video of a dual extruder 12" bowden setup. He has his extruders mounted further away, but you can see it in action. It's on you tube. I'll link it if I can find it later.
First off, Allte is very helpful, even with guys like me asking about scaling this to a 36" cube. LOL. I hope to start this project soon as a PLA 3d printer. I need a 2nd machine since business is picking up and I can't quite choke down a 2600.00 printer. Thank you for designing this.
I'm thinking of building one to use as a 3D printer. Do you have any links, whereby it use as a 3D printer with hotbed, printing other material like wood, metal, abs etc? Or will I need to use different hothead?
Lots of videos of the MPCNC printing.You might look into a short bowden setup (mount the pusher to the gantry) to a Jhead style hot end. Those are easy to swap and you can get a hot end for every use if you get serious.
I would just leave ABS alone, I do not enjoy working with it in any way. PLA prints best in a hot end that uses PTFE, Most non PLA filaments need more heat and need an all metal hotend, and filaments with stuff in them, like metalic, Should use stainless steel or better nozzles.
Thanks you Allted for you reply.
Can't wait to start on this project.
How's the resolution on a large build? Like 4x2 ft or larger? If rigidity is an issue at this level, is there a larger version for 1" or 2" conduit?
Wide open question that can not really be answered. Depends on what you are doing with it, and what tool, your build quality, knowledge of your gcode generating software, knowledge and experience whit what ever you are bolting on to the tool mount.
There is a 1" version, and a 25mm version. If you are going big use stainless steel tubing with 0.049" wall thickness in whatever OD that is available locally to you. You can always do midspan supports or full span support. The machine is extremely versatile.
You kinda don't give any info to go on. I can give you theoretical numbers but they mean nothing.
Ah, I didn't catch that about the mid-span supports, that certainly helps with the frame.
I guess maybe I should ask a different question: if I intend this to be used primarily to make large precision cuts and carvings for DIY upscale furniture, what recommendations would you give for tubing, supports, spindle, and motion components? Is there a variant to use lead screws instead of belts? How much vibration and flexing should I expect for cross members, and what are the mitigation strategies for large builds.
Assume I'm very familiar with building RepRap and similar printers, and not at all familiar with CNC.
The best is to use the stainless tubes I already mentioned, Belts are the best option each one can support something like 180lbs, leadscrews are not good for this, If you want to spend a few thousand on ball screws they might help a tiny bit, but I doubt it.
Make the z axis and legs as short as absolutely possible, no exaggeration....this is absolutely the largest factor on rigidity. x and y also need to be as small as possible. Too many people make this giant because once a year they might cut something giant. This is a mistake, make the table as big as you might need it and expand the machine for a large cut. Then put it back. It is very easy to change sizes.
What kind of dimensional accuracy do you expect from wood? This should easily cut better than expansion and contraction rates of any wood.
Fair enough on the lead screws vs belts. And thanks for the tip on the Z axis. I already have 2 printers so I'm not going to be trying to make this double as a printer.
I'm less interested in having it down to 50 microns than I am with avoiding vibration noise in the carving. I want to do work with 2.5D, not just straight cuts, I guess I want to know if I need to make any special considerations for that, like vibration dampeners or a professional spindle. I do want to carve copper and aluminum as well, but I think it might be best to just build a second one when I get to that point since I would need a lot more rigidity.
I think you understand it now. You'll be fine.
Nothing special needed. As you learn your spindle and your bits the cuts get better.
Exactly, leave metal far away from a giant machine. This is inexpensive enough to make a metal specific machine and a large wood machine.
Thanks for your help! Great design by the way -- really explores non-traditional ideas for achieving the goal.
So just to be clear, the $60 DeWalt is an adequate substitute for a normal CNC spindle? It doesn't vibrate too much on V carving and the like? Sorry to ask twice, I just want to make sure I don't waste $60 and a bunch of wood.
The dewalt is 600w for $60ish. You will not get close to that for even double that price in any other cutter.
No spindle should vibrate noticeably, I don't think I am understanding you. Do you mean chatter when cutting? Chatter is due to insufficient rigidity or poor settings on your cut.
Have a look at my videos on youtube, they show the capabilities well. Or feel free to ask in the forums of other users experiences.
Did you have the new version for nema 23 motor?
No, I don't think I am going make them. You could use adapters and mount them on the outside if you really want 23's but they ave overkill and risk damaging the machine with incorrect gcode. 23's can literally rip this apart, and have.
I'm thinking of doing a kind of virtual build of this in Solidworks. Reason being, I'm seeing more and more that people want some kind of guid to building this, and as assembly view complete with all hardware could aid in this (and possible be used to make a manual is someone know how to do that part) So, I was wondering which program was use to draw these parts, and if the original files for the current parts could be uploaded or uploaded in .STEP or .X_T, to help..... save me some time in redrawing them?
You can assemble STL's.
If you do a search in these comments and in the forums I give my reasons for not sharing that file format. Sorry.
I can, however in Solidworks .STL imports look like a hybrid mesh/part, meaning the mesh points are all visible. This is a negative in three ways; 1- Slows the program as it is tracking each point or each part. 2-The assembly commands such as concentric and Tangent rely on "smooth" circles and surfaces to properly define them (a circle of triangle faces can't be defined as circular). The third is just a visual preference. Hybrid parts view is not as visually appealing as a true part in renders due to the mesh overlay. So for example, the product image above looks great, but add the mesh over to each part imported from STL and it quickly loosed the visual appeal and clarity of a solid/flat surface looking object.
Sorry, I am not releasing them.
No problem, I'll redraw them 1:1 from STL, just figured I'd ask.
Please keep them to yourself.
How is the printing quality and speed? Compared to for example ultimaker 2
Totally depends on size and your rail quality, generally the accelerations are set lower do to the larger moving mass. Other than that they use all the same electronics and hardware so not as different as you might think.
How long did you take to design this CNC?
It was a part time project for me at the time so it is hard to say plus shipping of parts and all that. I made a corner block bottom and put some conduit in it and sat it on the dinner table, a few weeks later I had a working prototype. I have been making revisions ever since!
I printed and assembled your brilliant project when it first came out.. What parts should i reprint to update to the more rigid parts ? Thanks !!
Not sure what parts you have now. I kind of released them over 5 months.
Have a look at the render if the parts don't match yours, start printing! Joking. Depends on what your doing with it, if your happy no problem with what you have.
The newer corners are more solid/square, the new middle and z are a big undertaking but are much more rigid, the new rollers are a surprisingly big update themselves no more motor flex.
Feel free to ask specifics.
Hello Allted. Thanks you for be here to reply and help to everyone that have a questions. First at all,I am newbie on this all. I have not a deep knowlogede about arduino. I know something, the elementary things. I would like to know if I can use a TR8*8 bolt screw instead M8 bolt screw (see picture link). In case yes, what I will have to change on firmware?.
TR8 Leadscrew is not recommended. You trade mechanical advantage and resolution for speed and slightly less friction. The nuts are brass and not designed for the weight of this axis and tool, they also tend to have a lot of backlash.
If you do it you will need a custom nutlock, and calibrate your z axis steps per mm (seems to be 2 different versions so a careful measurement is necessary)
Can I hook up an https://www.arduino.cc/ board and graphic LCD to the controller you sell on your website? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igPUZym_EDU Video on hook up
Yup, both are sold on the site. the board is pre-flashed with the correct firmware for the screens I sell.
Perfect can't wait to get this built.
I already printed the old _Roller_F.STL part. Any issue of using this instead of the new version?
the main reason for the upgrade was that the old motor mount was prone to bending.
and the old roller and the new mount are not compatible
Now this is truly a open source CNC. Can't wait to have mine built and cutting carbon fiber to build racing quads. Thank you for doing this. I am going to order the hardware kit from your website.
Hey Allted, 1/ Thanks for being an open source Champion. 2/ What is the size of the biggest printed part? thanks and please. (170mm bed)
Looking in more detail, see the largest piece is under 160mm. Woohoo. buildable on my little printer!
Has anyone done a complete build video for the CNC?
my fav, http://www.vicious1.com/forum/topic/timelapse-of-my-build/
Might be a stupid question. Were is the sizes for all the conduits to cut to what length?
I found it http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/
can this be printed with one spool of filament?
If you read Allted's blog, the Bill of Materials lists 1.8 kg of filament is needed, so generally that's 2 1kg spools.
Hi man! That's a piece of work!
Congrats for your high designing skills.
Just a tough. In the Roller fixing nuts for the Roller_lock, I've intended I should use M4 bolts that uses M4 nuts. Is that ok? I ask just because I found nut pocket at 8mm, while Intl metrics for M4 is 7mm. Even squares nuts won't fit anymore in there.
Hope you'll understand my point. It's almost impossible to find M4 nut at 8mm here.
Anyway, gr8 job.
If you can get the nuts in there you can use any size you want. I know M3.5 aren't as common but they should fit.
Nope... you didn't get it... the pocket is bigger than it should. It should be an M4 -> 7mm, instead it carries the 8mm hex that is for the M5 nut. Just take a look in Google "M4 metric nut size" -> http://image.slidesharecdn.com/dimensionsofmetrichexnuts-121221090634-phpapp01/95/dimensions-of-metric-hex-nuts-1-638.jpg?cb=1356080846
I get your point, but if you want to put your design publicly available in Europe, you should follow IE metric rules.
I know drawing in other measurement system is a pain in the neck, but ask and listen to "metric peoples" helps a lot :)
I managed to correct the design in Inventor and, if you want, I'll post the STL for anyone to use and abuse it.
Cheers my friend.
A few things. This is world wide not just Europe. It was designed in the US and does fit the most inexpensive hardware here. Being an engineer most of the work I do is in metric. So to solve this problem the easiest way possible I fit the larger nuts and then smaller nuts should be no big deal just find a little something to stick in there to stop them from spinning. This is about a year and a half old now an very few people seem to have an issue with this. Long story short, this size seems to work for the majority.
You can release your part no problem. I'm sure you understand I can't make a release for all the different nut sizes out there, plus lock nut and regular.
I am finishing of mouted the conduit and all printers parts. I do not find any information related to how to wire and for example were goes mounted the limits swicht and how. Please somebody can helpme with this.
Another thing. Could I use TR8*8 bolt instead the normal M8 bolt on Z axle ???
Someone have used it?
Regards and thanks in advance.
The "official" assembly instructions, including electronics, are here:
And you can find more at the forums here:
Thanks for your reply sadkins1981 but on that assembly doesn´t say anything about limits swicth its posittion and how the are mounted or where. At least I don´t find it.
I don't recommend limit switches for the beginner. Milling/routing is not the same as 3D printing. Limit switches are only useful for advance operations.
You will see how to disable homing in the software setup.
Hello Allted, thanks. Where I can see a step by step guide where I can understand how run firmware and software to the machine.
On the website, http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
I want to build this but i want to use the same controller as the Shapeoko 3 and Xcarve. Would all the parts be the same besides that board. anyone that could help i'de greatly appreciate it
It should work fine as long as you don't plan on 3d printing.
nope none of that, i have a few dedicated pro printers just for everything from pla to polycarbonate and also tpu :) this will be specifically for cnc work, no 3d printing. would i JUST need to replace that board and use all the other components as you've listed? also i think i want to use the better Nema23 motors :) can you please message me to email@example.com. i have some other questions
I emailed the other address earlier
hi is anyone else out there having trouble finding 23.5mm conduit as i cant find any in the uk
I made 2 other versions as well. I'm guessing 25mm will be easier for you to find?
@Allted please shoot me a message to firstname.lastname@example.org. been trying to speak with you for some time now. thanks
Allted, I was just slicing the new 'C-Roller' and 'C-RollerM' parts for printing, and found a strange internal void that doesn't appear to have any purpose.
Yup, no purpose but no harm as well. At some point I might go in and get rid of it but it might be adding some extra strength to the grip as well.
Well, I'm printing mine without, I'll let you know how the machine handles :)
How do you think this thing would perform on milling out a guitar body? Or even a neck with some manual labor in the mix for the matter?
I'm headed out to the local flea market right now. Looking for a donor guitar so I can give it a shot. I couldn't seem to find a kit online that had all the parts that was a decent price. So I will start with a used one and see what happens. I have seen lots of cool cnc'd bodies out there.
I mean like but a blank and carve the whole thing. That would be amazing if this little guy can pull it off. Get a blank of basswood from warmoth. its the cheapest and softest. Kinda a poor performer as also. But a real test would be any wood above that. Like mahagony or ash.
I just put up a second video of me milling some Ipe, that is the most dense wood I can find and it handles it just fine.
on the parts list on your site(http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/)
Why are some part names grayed?(FootBottom, RollerMount, RollerPlate)
That should match up with how I print the bundle colors. I need to double check since I just updated that list today, but that's what it used to be for.
Oh okay. Just wanted to make sure it didn't mean you were mid update or something.
Are we able to request a modified version of the new roller mount that features the holes for the wires? Currently that's where my motor leads are terminated at, but if not I guess I will rewire the motor.
Oh man, I didn't even think about that. You are talking about the solder-less mounts?
Hey Allted, I just wanted to check in and see if you did have plans for the solder-less mounts? If not I will re-wire the steppers. Could you provide me a lead on where to find the 4 wire shielded cable you provided with the vitamins kits?
What size/version machine are you using? I'm moving this week, Don't have time to do all 6 but I can do the ones you need first. Sorry it gets a little crazy around here sometimes and if my notes get erased I forget.
I am using the US Standard Conduit version. So the 23.5mm version??? But most certainly get what you need to get done first because I am away for the entire next week for work so won't be around my printer. Plus I already have a working one so its not a big deal.
I just tried to make it like it was before and it doesn't fit. So I think I am going to have to make a clip on part or add material the mount. I'll have another look at it after I get out today's orders.
No problem. Thank you so much for taking a look at it sir.
That is correct. Would it be difficult to make a version of them?
Hi, I'm just got my 1st 3D printer and am excited about the prospects of building this CNC setup as well as i've wanted one for a long time. I'm primarely a woodworker, but i love creating things. So primarily looking to do routing work in dense hardwoods. But i also have a need to do some aluminum milling. I'd probably build something ~30"x48" to start. But i'm wondering how accurate & rigid is ur current setup for milling stuff like aluminum at those sizes? And would the new 25.4mm(1") version u are working on provide a marked improvement over the 3/4" version for rigidity? I would even consider going stainless at some point but probably not for the 1st version given the added cost as i need to learn on it.
And curious to hear what those who have built are achieving w/ a mostly stock built unit.
Large wood projects and aluminum milling are on two opposite ends of the CNC spectrum. I don't think I would try to do both with the same machine.
I can't really answer the accuracy question, every build will be different, the tool, and the gcode has just as big of an effect. If I give some specific numbers it will cause a flood of emails saying there machine is either better or worse and how to fix it. All I can say is I have been milling frames for the MP3DP at 15.5" square out of HPDE and they are coming out way better than I expect most woodworkers would care about. I actually have been routing a bunch of small pieces of whit oak and ipe for an upcoming video and the measurements are coming out pretty much spot on.
23.5mm and 25.4mm frame sizes won't change the machine much, Go with what you can find locally. I just bought a bunch of stainless for the 25.4 build and it was $3/foot where emt is $7/10'. If that pricce doesn't seem to bad to you the Stainless is very nice and really the only upgrade I can see having a rigidity effect at this point.
If you are about to get started with your prints whatever size you chose print the roller assemblies last I will be releasing the new ones in a few day or sooner.
Hmm. Well space a big factor atm as i really don't have the room for 2 machines, let alone 1. My shop is already full of at least 2 or 3 of every machine. lol. 3/4" emt is only $3.61 here atm. While 1" emt is $6.66. So 1" doesn't offer any more rigidity over 3/4"? I'm no engineer but seems the added surface would increase it somewhat. I haven't sourced stainless locally. but i know its expensive online. I have worked w/ emt b4 and 1" seems stronger then 3/4".
I guess i'm curious about why u wouldn't consider wood & aluminum projects on the same machine? Aside from not wanting to mix metal shaving's into you're wood projects are there any other reasons? I can certainly see myself having a seperate wood shop & metal shop at some point. As i'm also trying to doing metal fabrication work also. I plan on having a plasma CNC at some point when i move.
1"emt will not work. You need to verify the OD's. EMT is rated by the ID.
3/4" emt is 23.5mm OD and and 1" = 25.4mm, yes it technically would be stronger but you will not find 1" OD emt in the US you would need to invest in stainless steel. Other parts of the world the EMT is 1", odd as heck but that's how it goes I guess.
A large machine is less rigid, cutting metal requires every little bit of rigidity you can get to get the speeds up to something reasonable. I didn't say you couldn't do it but it is far from ideal. If you look through my videos you can see the speeds at which I cut aluminum on a 25"x30" (built for wood). You can add midspan supports to help if you are going to do it. You can easily do a giant plasma cutter as the only force on the gantry is the weight of the hose. Have a quick look though google at the difference is machine size vs cutting volume (and price for that matter) of a wood cnc vs metal it might illustrate the issues better than my explanations. Wood up to 4'x8' for 5-8k, metal 24"x12" $50k.
It is a multi machine but not necessarily all at the same time, best to chose the main use and see what else works in that build volume.
If you need some better examples you should put up a post in the forums. You will get a lot more opinions there, generally I am the only one that sees these comments.
Hey everyone that likes the MPCNC. Here is overlooked link to donate to Allted the creator of the MPCNC. I donated a bit when I finished printing my parts. Got the nicest written thank you. He puts the money towards his student loans. I have never met the guy, but clearly, he has put a lot of effort into this. I hope to reward him a bit more when I get mine running.http://www.vicious1.com/donate/
Great Work! I have everything built and wired up. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to send a sample lasercut DXF file to work with this? Including software to any changes I have to do to the board. I am using what was included in the kit on viscious1.com and am trying to now use the machine now that I have everything wired up.
I really just want as a starter to get the axis to be able to move to make sure it runs smoothly. Any suggestions for a beginner are welcome!
If you bought it from me it is flashed and ready to go, if not you have some work to do. I wasn't really sure if you used my recommended parts or my parts.
If you bought it from me, here is how you get started. http://www.vicious1.com/estlcam-basics/
Thanks for the very quick response! Yes I bought a kit from you last summer and built everything but long story short, had left it at my parents house while I was away at college and am just now getting back to working on it to start printing and cutting with the machine.
Thanks for the link I will follow the steps and hopefully be up and running!
Thank you for this great design, i was looking to build a cnc machine for years but never could talk myself into the amount of money needed for it. But i have a question (and i have done a complete CTRL+F through all the comments) I live in Europe and the DeWalt is not here for sale. Sure there there are dremels, but i am not a big fan of them. For the the same price as the DeWalt you can buy a Proxxon : http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/28481.php
Is there a reason not to use this ? Thanks a lot
Thanks for the compliments. That is why I built this, I had wanted one for a long time but didn't want to invest that much money into some of the other systems. I never thought anyone else would actually use it, boy was I wrong.
Or one of the 300-800W spindles available everywhere, but they are more expensive.
Thanks Allted and rtideas, i decided to go for a Kress 1050: http://www.kress-elektrik.com/Power-tools.71+M5a52714ab70.0.html?&tx_commerce_pi1%5BcatUid%5D=17&tx_commerce_pi1%5BshowUid%5D=1035
This seems to be the standard in europe when building a hobby cnc. I might upgrade to a chinese spindle but because i want a big working space (like 48") i am worried a chinese spindle of 5-7 kilo might be too heavy...
Looks like a very nice tool, and priced accordingly. ;)
Found a CAD file that might help give you a start to making mount for it (link on bottom of page):https://damencnc.com/en/tools/kress/kress-milling-motor/87
Depends on how much power you want/need. The Proxxon is listed as 100W. That's about a 1/2 amp by my calculations. You might look at trim routers or other rotary tools by Bosch, Ryobi, Porter-Cable, Makita, etc. with 3 amps or more of power. I plan on using a 3.5A/420W (@ 110v US) cutout tool from Harbor Freight (a cheap tool store with most goods from China) that I picked up for less than $20US. You can check eBay or places and look for used tools elsewhere. You may have to design a tool mount, but that should not be too hard--or ask for help.
Can i cut 4mm Carbon with this system?
Carbon fiber, yes very easily.
you can have the Toolmount file in a format different from stl?
Unfortunately Fusion360 not allow me to modify it to create a support for my dremel: D
Is PLA good enough?
Yes, It is what I recommend.
I've just finished printing all the parts with the old version of the middle assembly. What do I need to do to upgrade to the new middle assembly and is it worth the extra plastic? I'm printing in PLA if that makes a difference.
Also, is there an assembly guide available for the old version (pre 5/26)? I think I'd like to just assemble my machine as-is, and then do upgrades later.
The old and new assembly guides are right here. http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/
The updated parts have an asterisk in the list, http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/
Is it worth it? If you are routing/milling with the CNC then yes it is worth it, anything else not much of a difference.
Ah, okay, I missed the old version further down the page. Thanks!
For the new middle/corners, is there any other hardware that's needed in order to upgrade? I might look at putting together an upgrade guide at some point when I get around to actually doing the upgrade :)
Do you plan to do major updates to the machine going forward? If so, do you have some plans on how to version the designs? With only two common variants of the design, it's pretty easy to deal with, but it'll start to become a headache managing a bunch of different versions all in the same place. If you want help with managing the documentation for that, let me know. I'd love to help out.
The update you will need 4x2.5" bolts, and 1x5" bolt, maybe some extra screws and nuts depending on the tool mount you use.
Thanks for the offer. I think I want to update the rollers, and maybe the feet but that's it, and I ill be able to release the 25.4mm version as well. After that there are some ideas for a milled version or a 3 rail/axis version for the people that want to go giant.
Hello, my question is about 3D printing, how fast can I print with this machine, in mm/s approximately?
Trick question. With my recommended parts and setting default is maxed at 197mm/s, double that at 16th stepping.
I usually print at about 30....
It was not my intention to do a trick question, i want to print really big models like architectural models, so I want speed and I 'm looking for a machine that is much faster than a, for example, Prusa I3. I think I 'm going to build your machine if anyone recommend me another.
Thank you very much for the information and congratulations for your design!
Did you read the link it explains the speed limitations. To speed up the prints a larger nozzle is a better option.
what is the spacing of the holes for the tool mount?
the first one, ive tried the blank mount part but all i get is the mk mount base. i want the exact distance between the holes moving up the sides of the mount
The drawing is located in the blank mount part page with dimensions.
i figured it was 25 but i just wanted to make sure.
heres a blank if anyone wants to make their own tool mounthttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1634262
I havent printed it yet, but the dimensions are sketched directly on top of the stl files, so they should be acurate.
I have the old style center and was looking for the files for the tool mounts (especially the dewalt 660). Does anyone still have the old files? I really don't want to print off an all new center just yet...
Could you provide the SolidWorks files? As the assembly...
No I'm sorry I have a few reasons for not doing this.
okay :) Allted I would like to know the length that I need to cut the OD conduit for a working area of 500 x 500 x 250 I would be very grateful you can help me with this. o/
He walks you through it here, or there are links to calculators at the bottom:http://www.vicious1.com/assembly/conduit-rails-tubes-pipes/
Equations are in there.
thank you for your support! to calculate the pipes for the legs Do I use 250-13 = 237 mm (for my case)?!? and congratulations for the design! very good!
One of the things that it awesome about this design is that I can print every part, but one, on the print bed of the Monoprice MP200. The one part that I can't fit in the 125X125X125 print volume, just barely fits. No worries, I have access to other printers. I just think it's awesome that most of it can be printed on the $200 printer.
Glad to hear, thank you.
have anyone try to cut carbon fiber sheet with this machine? maybe just a 2mm CF sheet?
I just finished assembling a MPCNC will ABS parts printed at a 70% infill. Holy cow what a difference!
Using ABS rather than PLA has SIGNIFICANTLY improved the rigidity of this machine. I can flex the z axis on the PLA MPCNC by tugging on it this ABS one is rock solid!
Awesome that that worked out for you. Most find the shrinkage causes alignment issues. A few of you lucky ones get parts that fit well and are stronger. Congrats.
Thanks man. Printed in ABS was a challenge to figure out! I have not noticed any shrinkage of the parts. I had high resolution PLA parts that I already had printed to compare the ABS to PLA. I have an entire MPCNC machine that is printed in PLA 70% infill at 120 micron layer height. I dont know what Im going to do with those parts now? They currently live in a grocery bag and may just stay there indefinitely.
I had to design a specialty printer to do this. It worked and I built 2 printers with a chamber just to print the parts to make this MPCNC machine with ABS parts. Im so hooked on ABS now!! ABS + MPCNC = AWESOME!
If anybody is interested I posted the custom built printer on thingverse here:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1589570
Side note... My comments have a huge blank space at the top. Weird. I am trying to repost this comment to see if I can fix this issue by resubmitting.
Hi ! i've been investing plenty of time onto this, but i'm still sad.
I had it printed, but i couldn't find 25mm conduits.
Then i re-printed it to adjust my 22,5mm conduits. They we're just fine.
I burned some cnc shield meanwhile, but finally got it all right.
Now, when I try it, it is still not perfect and when I put it to work the motor usually runs without moving the makita when it finds resistence.
Could someone help me pls ?
I'd really like to have it working.
I'm starting to think this project is not proper for me.
There are a lot of questions to answer before anyone can help you.
You should move your question to here, http://www.vicious1.com/forum/forumz/troubleshooting/
Put in as meany details as possible, including what parts you are using and how you have it set up. Including some pictures usually helps as well as do videos.
Hi, can I use metric screws in this version or only imperial?
Metric is fine, there is a list here. http://www.vicious1.com/blog/parts/
do you have a dermal 300 mount for new middle?
3000? arkteknik did one search mpcnc 525 and there is the new list, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1617018
can you maybe reup the nutlock for the old middle assembly? :-)
Hi Allted, THX very much!!! <3
Your welcome, sorry to delete them on you.
I need the old 11 mm z-nutlock also but the link above doesn't seem to work.
Is there an archive of all the files for the older build anywhere? thanks!
There was a thing with all the old files but I can't find it right now I didn't post it.
thanks for the quick response!
Great job :)
Can you post the full specification of the C-ToolMount part in order to create my own adapters (3D printing...) ?
Whooop, The rework of the middle looks great. Question, can you use the new middle without changing the corners and rollers.
Thanks and yes, it all works together.
First off, this machine looks incredible and I can not wait to start putting it together. Second, thank you for the lightening fast shipping on the hardware bundle I purchased on your site. I ordered on Monday and it showed up on Wednesday - gotta love that! So now on to my question - I had just started printing the first of the middle parts when I saw your 5/25/16 update. I quickly hit cancel and am now printing the new middle parts but there are two that are confusing me. The C-NutLock looks like it comes in 11 mm and 13 mm sizes, and the Pineapple_coupler comes is "5mm_8MM" and "5mm_5_16in" sizes. Which of each should I print if I got hardware from you? I looked for the answer here and on your site but either missed it or just didn't see it. Thanks for your help and for this inspired design!
Thanks for all the compliments!
I actually just, updated that in the middle assembly page.
The bundle from the site uses the 5/16 coupler, and the 11mm nut lock.