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alpinedrones

Micro H-Quadcopter for 8.5mm motors

by alpinedrones Mar 10, 2015
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What are the dimensions of the frame? In cm's please. Great frame by the way, I love it!
Thanks, Lachie.

if you load the stl file in your slicer you can see the dimensions there

Okay thanks for the reply. :)

the motor holder space should be on the inside not the outside

so i use Hubsan 107c replacement motors (e.g. from banggood or rcmaster and what else do i need to make this project complete?

The cheapest option is to buy a hubsan, gut it, and use those parts to build this frame. Or you could get a beefs board or similar and a transmitter and some MMW motors and props for a more high performance build.

Thanks for posting this. I made this yesterday, came out very nicely.

I test fitted beef's board and some 8.5mm motors fits perfectly. Only thing is that I can't seem to figure out how to fit a VA1000 FPV camera in there. I found the top plate for the VA1000 for this frame but since there is hole in the base, the camera won't sit in it. Maybe I will glue some toothpicks to make a "base". If you can update it for a FPV camera to fit that would be good.

Thanks again for posting this. :)

A friend printed it for me, i used syma x5s board and 8.5mm motors.
Frame works great buy top part will be better if u do it stronger.
I recommend it so much.
Now im doing a research to search for a cheap and light fpv.
Any ideas? Sorry about my english

rotor size would be helpful.

it takes standard hubsan h107 and walkera ladybird props. the 130 version also rolling spider propellers. the first two are rougly 57mm, the rolling spider's props are larger, as far as I remember they're 65mm (don't have any here right now).

Looks awesome! What size rotor do you use??

is there an electronic list?

so which of the parts should I down load for a robo r1 printer

Great design, thank you ...

Just printed this frame and love it with the BBB32 board. Flies great. Not sure where to source the screws from, I will try my local hardware shop first. I have it kind of slapped together for now. Plan to print more of these in the future. Thank you very much for sharing your great design.

I usually order plastic screws from ebay. They are not that easy to find. thanks for the kind words!

Did you ever try putting the slots for the motor mounts on the inside instead of the outside? It would allow you to solder all your bits together and then just lay them down right onto the frame. I'm also thinking you could make a cage that just covers the FC tray and is shallower for a lighter unit.

Thanks for the input. Yes I have thought about it and the upcoming update of the micro H will have the slots facing inwards. it will also have a redesigned FC compartment, especially for beef boards.

I've used both versions with a beefs board. One thing, the beefs version does not have the small base for for motor cans to bottom out against. Anyway you could update this?

updated versions are out now

Thank you for pointing this out. The small bases have been omitted on purpose, but I'll upload a version with them today or tomorrow. best regards!

nice! man, maybe I'll have to find myself one of these beef boards . . .

I think it would be beneficial if you rotated the motor mounts 180 so the slots were towards the middle of the frame instead of out. It would make swapping motors easier if you have a plug on the wire and you could have shorter wires.

you're right. I can't say when an update is coming, but the next version will have the slots inwards. thanks!

Awesome, Thanks. Love the frame otherwise.

What control board have people been using

Thanks!

I have a Beef's Brushed Board. Its awesome with cleanflight.

I've always used hubsan x4 parts, but have an Afro Mini here that I want to try out one day...

I tried printing the 130 version and the X In the middle did not print, like it wasnt even there. It shows in the stl file, so I'm not sure what's going on. Regenerated the g code and printing again, looks like its doing the same thing. Maybe I'll try the other frame version....
Edit: the 120 frame is doing the same thing. How thick is the X section, it looks thinner that the main frame part?

Apparently there is an error with the main frame stl files, i ran the 130 version through the repair program on netfabb and then it printed perfectly.

Seems odd. I just checked the files and sliced the file I've uploaded again with slic3r. Everything went well without any problems. But thank you for pointing out and thank you for mentioning netfabb. I'll get my hands on it and check/repair the files.

Yeah, I have no doubt the files worked for you and others. Someone on the google group for my printer (FlashForge Creator Pro) pointed out that some slicers are more tolerant than others to small errors in stl files... apparently the one I'm using couldn't handle it. Anyway, I fixed the file and printed it no problem afterward. It's a nice design, thank you for sharing it.

This one was about a centimeter too long for my hubsan parts - I ripped off the leads from two of my motors trying to get them into the frame. Nobody's fault but mine, but others should be careful. Those wires are super delicate.

Same thing happened to me and I ripped a pad off of my hubsan fc. Mounted my next fc underneath the main plate and hung the top plate underneath to protect it. Works pretty well.

No worries :) what does the frame weigh without the screws bud?

slightly more than 13g with mentioned settings in ABS, without screws. steel screws and nuts weigh less than 1g, so i wouldn't bother that much about the screws....

Hey mate what infil are you printing and weight of frame inc screws?

3 outer layers (side, bottom, top) and 40% infill. don't know whether these are the best settings, but they work fine for me.

I'll post weight numbers soon as I haven't received 20mm long plastic screws yet and use steel screws right now.

What motors do you recommend?

I usually use Hubsan 107c replacement motors (e.g. from banggood or rcmaster, but there are loads of suppliers) and ladybird props.

In my opinion the more "high-end" alternatives (e.g. CL 0820-15) don't offer that much more performance to justify the higher price, but they're fun for sure!

Thanks for the advice.