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Taz4 Enclosure

by Makuna Feb 19, 2015
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Hi - Looks like a good alternative to using expensive acrylic sheets. My only reason for doing this would be to minimize noise. Does it insulate and minimize the noise while printing?

It does help with noise. To make it even better, line the insides with acoustic foam. There should be room for 1" think foam easily.

Good idea! Thanks!

What's the inside (or inner wall) temp typically while printing ABS/HIPS? I am thinking about other materials I could use, such as corrugated polypropylene sheets (which I would not want to have continuous wall temp above 115-120c)

Its never gone over 100c for me, and usually sitting around 85c (bed heater temperature) after about 10 mins of being closed up.

The material I used has a high insulation factor for its thickness and is very light. I wanted to make sure the room temps were not a factor.

I started cutting and assembling it today and realized that one roll of foil tape and weather proofing tape is not enough. You probably should update BOM to include two of each.

Thanks for catching this. I updated it to be more specific.

Hello Makuna,

I have started printing these parts, thank you for what seems like a very simple design. Forgive my ignorance, but what is the Heat Insert spacer? And to be clear on the bolts, I need to get the same ones used on the filament arm? Lastly, what am I missing when you say the TAZ needs to be disassembled? I do not see where it is anything more than mounting on the frame...


Heat Insert Spacer- If you look at the spool arm after removing it from the TAZ, in the hole is a aluminum spacer. They are pressed into the printed part by heating them and applying an even pressure until its flush. You can use a soldering iron if its large enough to fit in the whole and press on the edges. These supply strength to the part.

Bolts and T-Nuts - When you remove the filament arm, you will notice a NUT captured in the frame that the bolt was threaded into. It is loose and will slide down when you removed the arm. The bolt and Nut can be reused.

Disassemble - The captured T-Nuts can NOT be removed or inserted from the face of the frame, they must be inserted into the slots from the edges. Due to this, you will need to disassemble enough of the frame (corners mostly) to move and insert the T-Nuts. There are T-Nuts out there that can be inserted into the face, but the ones that come with the TAZ are not of that design.

Just to let you know, you can get special T-Nuts from Lulzbot (Aleph) that can be inserted directly into the frames slot without disassembling your printer. They look like rectangular nuts with a metal spring on them (not the coiled spring). You can see the nut in one of Lulzbots instructions (picture for step 8 at https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/dual-extruder-v2-tool-head-installation/accessories/ ). I had bought the dual extruder and when I got it with my installation I asked them if they sell the nuts. They do and it is part number HD-NT0017 .
In my case it was used to install a second reel arm.
I highly suggest including this information in your BOM and instructions.

Makuna, do you think it will hold together without all these enclosure attachments at all? I am thinking to try it, but don't want to spend time hunting down necessary bolts and disassembling/assembling TAZ before I confirm it solves my problem. :)

The arms while not required, but do keep it aligned. The act of opening the front would cause it to shift without them. The box is very light but rigid.

You can "scavenge" the parts already present to be able to mount three arms; which should be enough.

If you remove the nameplate, this will provide two t-nuts/bolt/washer sets. Remove the spool holder, this will provide one t-nut/bolt/washer set.

I would suggest then putting the back side arms and a front top arm in.

Thanks, I put an order at homedepot.com. I am going to use insulating sheet for front door as well with a window made of this one - http://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-24-in-x-18-in-x-093-in-Polycarbonate-Sheet-GE-07/202038064 - this way I don't have to go and order special cut of acrylic sheet. And probably use several layers of foil tape on top as a poorsman hinge :) Just to see if it going to work. If it does, next step would probably be printing these mounts and adding some magnets to hold door shut.

3DPrintClean is developing an Odor and Ultrafine Particle filtration attachment for DIY enclosures. Would make a great addition. See http://3dprintclean.com/3dprintclean-scrubber.htm - Disclosure, I am the founder of 3DPrintClean.

Looks awesome! Would you mind sharing experience with ABS in this chamber? Did it solve all curling/delamination issues or these still exists?

I haven't t printed anything large since building this, but even my small/medium sized prints have shown improved layer adhesion. Before even some small prints I would get delamination, now, they are solid. Curling still happens on sharp corners off the bed occasionally, but this is fixed easily with small 0.5mm discs includes in the model to adhere them to the bed. But it is less often I have had to do that now.

I will update when I print a larger ABS item.