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Peon230 - Quadcopter

by Tech2C Jan 10, 2015
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I bought the F4 controller from SPC Maker. Now I can't find a description for the wiring anywhere. Can anyone help me?

Anyone print their own Props? If so what material did you use and do you have an stl?

I am using this frame, slightly enlarged to a 250 instead of a 230, for a Boy Scout High Adventure. If anyone needs electronic help, check out this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFNGUDT_9_c

This gives you a low cost option as well as an upgraded setup, I am using the upgraded version for the High Adventure. 20 Scouts will go home with complete FPV system.

hi, I was wondering what the total cost of the electroncis would be in ausd.


Will this frame fit Emax 2306?

I am thinking of buying a set of those, but I see that the listed arm says 22 :|(

Thank you!

Could it be, that the lugs on the FPV camholder are to big (or the holes in top and bottom to small)? After printing the lugs measure 5mm while the holes in top and bottom are just 4.5mm - the other dimensions on the frame and camholder are absolutely precise, its only just not fitting there.

In the video the total assembled weight is 100gram. Screws and standoffs weigh just over 20 grams. If you print just the 4 arms, base, top and support plates at 10% infil, 3 top & bottom layers, 3 perimeters the weight would be around 86 grams so would be at least 106grams. This is without the camera mounts and dampeners weight. There is no way you can get this frame to weigh 100 grams.

Printing at 100% arms and arm plates & top and bottom plates & 30% + screws & standoffs you are looking at over 140 grams. How was it possible in the video to achieve 100 grams?

Its not possible to even achieve it with all parts 10% infil and 2 top and bottom layers with 3 walls. I'm confused

does anyone know or have a link where i can follow? on how to wire this up i have all the parts just need help on the wiring of the boards

hi thermoshok, i spent the last few weeks wiring mine up and learned a lot in the process. The most intimidating part for me was the ominpro flight controller as had no info on the pinouts, so spent a while watching youtube. Any how happy to help guide you through. feel free to reach out.

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Can i know action time for this drone if i bought all suggested equipment that you proposed? How the remote distance?

Whats the difference between the two arms?

Just wanted you to know that I made a landing gear in Fusion360. I would be willing to send it to you to add to the files if you wish. Just let me know. I am currently working on the build and have printed the frame in Crystal glass clear PETG. If I drop leds in the landing gear, it should show up for miles.

Would it be possible to get the fusion360 files? I would like to add some fillets and soften some sharp corners which will reduce the areas where the arms can crack/break on impact. I would return them back to you for posting a revision, if you wish. Thank you, Marty

Nice project, I wonder how much filament does it take? and how many hours printing it at the recommended settings?

Thanks for your great frame, had my first flight yesterday. Managed to do some rolls & flips just about. Did end with a crash though but just printed another frame and was good to go again in a couple hours!


There is this additional hole in the arms between the first two square holes. Can please anybody tell me, what it is good for?

@Tech2C (Thank you, for this cool project)

I've sucessfully printed the frame, now I'm up to buy the electronics. What option is better :

Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2600KV + ESC Racerstar RS30A Lite 30A Blheli_S
Racerstar Racing Edition 2403 BR2204 2300KV + the same ESC

Last question: Isn't the 30A ESC too much ? Or should i buy rather 20A version?

Hey @Tech2C,
first of all thank you for the great design and for making it available to people like me, who are looking to build their first quadcopter with it.
However I noticed that the meshes of the V1.1 base and top are a bit messed up (also 15mb in size each).
I wanted to modify the top a bit, but my CAD programm isnt to happy working with the file.
If it isn't too much trouble, I would be very greatful if you could maybe export those files again and see if that fixes the issue.
I added a screenshot of the v1.1 mesh as well as the v1 mesh so you can see what i mean.
I hope you find the time to look into this, but either way thanks a lot for the awesome frame! I can't wait for all of my parts to show up and finally build my quadcopter!

Looking to build but im useless at soldering.
Can you recommend ant flight controllers etc that wont need soldering?

Just looked at the video from 2015 with the cc3d that looks to have the connectors already but cant seem to find this.

i just made one of these ended up putting a naze 32 in it but when i try to take off or anything it wont getoff the ground, and beta flight says it just tilts to the right. any ideas how to fix that.

Nicely done! Do you happen to have designed a frame for < 250g quad?

I know so some people just literally scaled the peon 230 up a little in the slicer program and got it to work. I haven't done it personally but I would imagine you would have to make your own mounting holes or some type adapter for the FC and motors

If there's something better or these are the best I wanted to get the f3 one. Btw what's the top speed this drone can go?

Well the the difference is the F4 is a faster processor and usually have more UARTs which means you'll have more options / ports when wanting to hook up things like sensors, GPS or other things. As far as speed goes, GPS says I've had mine up to 60MPH but I was no where near maxing it out, I wasn't even pushing it that hard. Similar sized drones with my motors and ESCs have hit over 80MPH. Here is a link to my build, I list all parts and have some test video from the drones DVR. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:426373

Peon230 - Quadcopter

thank you you helped answer my questions i will be going for the f4 and doing future upgrades you have i have majority of the original peon230 parts about 90 percent of them

No problem, glad I could help. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I did a lot of research when I was making this. This was my first quad build, I have made some R/C planes, helis and cars but quads have a little more to em then most R/Cs. Also make sure the F4 you get uses Betaflight. Betaflight makes it so easy to program and upgrade your Drone plus there are hundreds of videos out there to show pretty much anything you want to do to your drone through Betaflight.

Is there any other flight controller I can use besides the f3 or f4?

Well any FC that fits in the mounting brackets (i forget the size exactly but i know its one of the most commonly used for controllers) but the F3 and F4 are currently easiest to get by any manufacturer of your choice and there is a ton of support out there for em. Pointless to get any thing older then a F3 (some would say the same about the F4) and anything faster than the F4 isn't really necessary for this style of drone. Is there a reason you don't want to use a F3 or F4 chip? They're basically used in all reliable FC's that aren't specialty built

Superb. Thanks for sharing :-)

Thanks for the design Tech2c! its really great, I'm a bit of a beginner so have done an arm remix with an integrated prop guard.


Dude could i sell these on ebay? Obviously i would print the shoutout and link you.

Hey did you print out the Nylon Spacers as well? They wernt in the STL file, would i be able to get the Dimensions for it? Thank you. Design is great btw!

The nylon spacers I used that work well were from Amazon, got a 30 pack of M3 40mm for like $9.00
However I have also printed these and they work well also ---> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1667267

I will say however the Nylon spacers from amazon hold up much better during crashes. Both the 3D Printed and the Amazon standoffs work well with most of the sides available for printing.
Here is mine https://www.thingiverse.com/make:426373

M3 round spacers
Peon230 - Quadcopter

I've printed my spacers in PETG - pro tip is to print them laying down for increased torsion strength - first ones i printed in PLA standing up were to weak. - Keeps me going while my nylon spacers make their crawl from china!

I used these ones - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:710249

Set of Hex Spacer M3/M4 (5mm - 50mm + custom)

i am in the process of building and buying parts what is the top speed this can go?

First off, great design. This is my first quad and I'm really looking forward to building and flying it.
Can you recommend a good tutorial for assembling the Betaflight F3 Flight Controller and the Rockstar 4-in-1 20A ESC? After looking around
a little I think this video by Joshua Bardwell is probably the best thing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SvbZNU72FE&t=8s), but the ESC he uses is a different model/brand. Any thoughts?
Thanks again,

Is there any chances of sharing the source files? Love your work.

I just finished building mine on Saturday. Went for some slightly different bits, just so I could get them off Amazon quicker when banggood parts didn't turn up before Christmas (most have arrived now, so may do a second build eventually..). Mostly stuck with the parts listed in the description though.
I went with an AIO F4 flight controller off Amazon (with integrated PDB).
The 4-in-1 ESC has just arrived today, but I've fitted 4 seperate ESCs (off Amazon).

It flies quite well!
I'm a total beginner, so I crashed it about 5 seconds in (I put footage of that on youtube, and added it to my "make" page on here if you want a chuckle). The default Betaflight flying mode is a beast! I'm going to switch the default to "Horizon" I think.
I also made a build video (my first ever!) if you want to waste 35 minutes of your life (and that's just part 1 - haven't been able to edit part 2 with flight controller stuff yet).

I like!
I just need to do something with the battery cable, the antennas, and the GoPro mount (because it keeps falling off). Also need FPV stuff - can't afford that yet.

Thanks @Tech2C!

The Racerstar Racing Edition 1806 BR1806 2280KV Motor does not fit on the Arms Why?

Did you print the "Peon230_Arm_v1_22sizeMotor.stl" arm instead of just "Peon230_Arm_v1.stl"?
I went with 2204 motors so printed the 22sizeMotor version of the arm, so can't comment other than check which arm you printed ^

One of the "fixings" listed is Qty 6 M3x40mm hex spacer. There are lots of Thingiverse and TinkerCAD posted hex spacers so you can print even more of this.

BTW, thanks for posting this. Its pretty awesome and I am just waiting on props!

Have you tested the printed M3x40mm spacers? How strong are they?
Do they just work okay with an M3 screw?

I only saw those after I'd built, but thinking of printing some off for spares of a second build. Also saw some hex spacers with clip on side panels too! I like the thought of that.

They seem pretty strong to me, thought next time I build them I would be tempted to make them larger diameter (is that the right word for a hexagonal shape??? whatever...) as they are not as big as nylon spacers usually are, they are more like what brass hex spacers are in size.

As printed, no the 3mm screws do not work directly, I took a 3mm tap and threaded them. I put the tap in my cordless drill and forwarded and reversed a few times to quickly tap threads and reverse and clean the tap and go further. The threads hold well.

I used ABS for my frame, but if it flies well, my next build will be taulman 910 nylon replacement. That should be even more rugged and more flexible and will take threads well.

Well I was going to try printing some (in PLA), but just had a package turned up that I'd completely forgotten about! A bag of about 30 nylon spacers :-D
£1.90 off Amazon with free postage from China! Ordered on the 17th Dec. Delivery estimate was 11th-23rd Jan to the UK. Arrived today :-)

Is this frame and configuration useable with a pixhawk controller?

I am planning on using a PIXRacer flight controller... not because that will be the best (it won't for FPV for sure) but because I have it on hand and it will fit.

My wish list would be an F4 Omnibus stack with a flight controller layer, a 4 in 1 ESC layer and a video transmitter layer with OSD.

How long is the top frame?

160mm long (x 56mm wide x 4mm thick)

which camera do you guys put on here or reccomend to use?

I used the RunCam Split 2 to save weight from having to have two separate cameras and makes it look better by just having the internal cam. I uploaded a "floating" cam mount for this drone that way the internal cam that also records is also cushioned.

What material is best for this build pla, abs, petg, nylon ? Need help please

I have had good results with PETG which I do believe is the recommended material. Although I took mine out today and on a hard slam the top and bottom frame kind of shattered around the standoffs. I think it might be because of the cold weather + I think my nozzle was half clogged during the print.

Tech2C has done some videos testing the different materials.
Here's the one for PLA vs ABS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmgSojocJ3c
If you look through his YouTube channel I think you'll find the others (a nylon one was showing as "up next" for me when looking at the above video.

I think I need help.
I've been going round in circles watching various videos and I think I've reached the point where my brain has given up.

I'm ordering the Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1 ESC.
I'm also ordering an F3 flight controller.

Do I also need a seperate BEC or PDM (are those the same thing?), so I'll have 3 boards on my drone?

I feel like I'm missing something really obvious.

I found this to be an interesting and useful video for building a Quad. I'll be printing in red petg and ordering the parts when I can afford them.


okay, I think where I've gotten confused, usually the builds I've seen have got a Flight controller plus a PDM. Then they have the 4 seperate ESCs.
Whereas I've gone the 4-in-1 ESC route which would also need to sit on the flight controler and the PDM. So I would have 3 boards stacked, right?
But if I went for something like this: https://www.banggood.com/Racing-F4-EVO-Pro-Flight-Controller-2-6S-STM32-F405-CPU-Built-in-5V-1A-BEC-BMP280-Barometer-for-FPV-RC-Drone-p-1194686.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
instead of the F3 flight controller, That eliminates the need for the PDM because it's got BEC built in? So then I would just have the ESC 4-in-1 plus that F4?

Doesn't help that I've tried finding stuff that's in stock because the linked F4 is out of stock (as is the one I just linked), so I lost my way a little!

I also realise I might be calling it a PDM and it might be a PDB?

Im trying to figure this out as well.
here is what i think, you need 4 ESC or " 4 in 1"
you also need a flight controller , im choosing deluxe version for GPS in the future
you need PDB power distribution board

That F3 is the one I chose originally with the GPS etc (well, I think the one I ordered was a "clone" or something), but because I wanted to go the "4 in 1 ESC" route, I wanted a flight controller with integrated PDB so I didn't have 3 boards stacked.

I've actually ordered the Matek AIO F4 from Amazon (ordered in a panic, probably could've gotten similar for less money, I think): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074KCDRDM/ref
I was going to get their PDB off Amazon then saw their F4.

Everything is shipping now, so I've crossed my fingers hoping it's all right! :-)

This is the 4-in-1 ESC I've ordered:

I'm liking this conversation with myself. I really should make notes when I'm doing something like this, because typing it down here has helped!
I've scrapped the F3 idea. I've found an F4 AIO on amazon (has a BEC and PDB and all the acronyms) - I'm going for that. I'm 50-90% certain it's what I need instead of the F3 and the PDB/M.
Still confused about what a BEC is - I think it's to do with not needing a separate battery for the motors, or the ESC, or something.

BEC is a voltage regulator, it takes for example battery 12VDC and reduce it to 5 VDC to run your receiver , flight controller
i was looking at F4 AIO you mentioned, it looks like it has PDB already built in

Yes, saw that. The built-in PDB was one of the reasons I opted for that one.
One thing that confused me too, I didn't realise the F4 I've chosen has two sides of contacts... I was struggling to see how the 4-in-1 ECS would connect but it made perfect sense once I realised the contacts were on the bottom.

I've read and watched so much info about building this drone, yet still haven't read and watched anywhere near as much as I need to. I like it, always something new to learn and discover.

I haven't even ventured into FPV camera/transmitter/viewer yet. Just going to practice line of sight flying on an open field for a while before fitting ant FPV stuff.

I think its a learning curve, like everything else we learn from our mistakes.
i'm pretty sure what you have ordered will work just fine,
as far as FPV i found this combo transmitter and camera fro $15 i already ordered couple of them .
this is the cheapest goggles i found gearbest using this promo code RC18OFF

@K2DO, enough with the affiliate links. You have been reported.

HI @Tech2C, I'm new to these parts. Are affiliate links not allowed, or is it just generally bad practice commenting them on someone else's work?
Had no intention of posting them myself, just curious.

PS. my nuts and bolts, and flight controller have arrived, so I can at least start putting the frame together :-D The rest is on it's way from China. Joyful wait.

Check out the feet I made for it!

Peon 230 Screw In Feet

Hey Tech2c - first off, thank you for sharing your design - I jumped in feet first and love what you've done in your design!

Did you modify your PID values in your design? I have the eMax RS2205 motors with eMax 30A esc's with SPF3 FC (4S bat). The motors are very hot (will burn to touch) and I've read that modifying PID values can help. I have T5045C 3 blade props DALDROP which I think are OK for the size of the build - just curious if you've heard anyone else comment on motor heat...

How long before the motors are hot? If they are that hot after a single battery then you have a problem somewhere that def needs sorting. I run 2205's on 5S with 40@ escs and 5*4 triblades without any issue and they come down cool/warm depending on ambient temp. My PiDs are stock betaflight 3.2.

Hey scousethief - appreciate the reply! It was after a couple minutes (before full battery discharge) and all four motors were hot (burning) to touch.

I'm using CleanFlight on the board so I got a bit aggressive on PID tuning and halved the PD values. I also added a filter - after making those changes it fixed the temp issue.

I'm now going to play around with the tunes as there's a little wobble when descending and leveling out, but at least I know I'm not burning up the motors. I'm thinking my setup may just have more noise which is causing the issue (might put the PID back and leave the filter to see the outcome).

Again - thank you for the reply - now that I know others run with default settings I can experiment with mine a bit more.

Hammer it m8 :D full throttle all the way , Emax's are pretty resilient motors they can take some real abuse :D i play with my settings at the field usually ( OTG cable, PiDFlight or EZGui app or OSD) which helps a bit, i never really tune them to the nth degree as im normally too busy avoiding those sneaky ninja trees :D
Have fun m8 :D


Really liked this frame, it's really good to be able to print spares! Design's getting a bit dated now though so I've just designed my own true x frame which I'm currently building https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2667412

Printed True X 210 racing drone

Has anyone done any testing with PLA +?

In the video you mention removing three of the four 5 volt feedback lines, is that just because you are not using a power distribution module or should the lines be removed in all cases?


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This looks and feel like a good quad. When I have assembled it I will comment further.

Do I need a PPM receiver to use the F4 Flight Controller? The Transmitter/Reciever combo you have listed has a PWM receiver, but in my research (I have never built a drone before) I have not been able to find a tutorial explaining how to connect a PWM receiver to a board like the F4 -- Should I just buy a PPM receiver, and if so how do I bind it to the transmitter?

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I'm planning on building this as my first quadcopter. From my research in to parts electronics I noticed that I would need a Power Distribution Board, but you don't have one listed in the Thing Details. Do I need one? What is a good one? I was thinking about using this ESC (https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NAZE32-F3-Flight-Controller-Acro-6-DOF-Deluxe-10-DOF-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USA), with this Flight Controller (https://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NAZE32-F3-Flight-Controller-Acro-6-DOF-Deluxe-10-DOF-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=USA)

Thanks for the awesome design!

If you choose the Racerstar 4in1 ESC then you won't need a PDM. Also the F4 flight controller has an inbuilt PDM if you chose individual ESC's.

The reason I didn't choose the F4 was because the F3 looked like it came with all the wires I would need (which is good because I don't know what wires I'll need) - Does the F4 do the same and just not show it on the product page, or would I have to buy the wires separately?

edit: I now realize that those wires are only needed to connect to the PDB, so they aren't needed on the F4. Thanks for the help!

If I had a Spectrum Dx 6 radio with a spectrum receiver could I use it for this setup?

I am using a DX6 with a lemonrx receiver

Which type of lemonrx receiver? I got a spectrum receiver with my DX6... would that receiver work for the quad? Sorry, pretty new to the internals of building quad.

have you an idea for recevier ? because very expensive ..

Look for Flysky I6. Its pretty cheap and you can kind of hack it to have more chanels! I am very happy with it.

What size are the dampeners, please?

The hole is approx 5mm in diameter. I've had a hard time finding the right size

I'd like to say thank you for put this up. I have printed one off, and am assembling it with my old bosses son just for something to do over the holidays. Really am impressed so far. Thanks so much

I broke thingiverse when I searched for the peon230 pro :)

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Hi, you do not talked about the FPV system you are using. So, which canera and vidéo transmitter and antenas do you advice ?

Hi ! I am a total newbie when it comes to RC and quadcopter and I am putting my first attempt on this great design by Tech2C.

I need help on putting the electronics together. I bought Flight Controller : Omnibus Betaflight F4, ESC : Racerstar RS20Ax4 20A 4 in 1 and Remote control : FlySky FS-i6 and as I look for resources online I get more and more confused !

Can anyone guide me pls ?

Do you have your motors, battery, pdb (power distribution board), props, battery alarm, and receiver for your i6? If so, what are their specs? Basically, you want to have the FC (flight controller) wired to the PDB on the frame, then wire the receiver to the FC, and then the ESC servo leads wired to the FC. The ESCs should then be soldered to the PDB, and then the motor soldered to the ESCs. Next, after all of t he wiring is complete, configure the FC via software like Cleanflight or something like that. There are lots of resources at your local library probably which are very useful. Good luck with your build! Check out this image for clarification: http://www.rcdronegood.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Naze-32-Connection-Diagram.jpg

Thanks Lawrencero ! I have all those items purchased as per the list given by Tech2C except for the battery alarm. The diagram should help me to do the wiring. WIll try it tonight.

Hi, I'm thinking of printing this frame as an upgrade from my wooden-beam x style quad. Will 2212/980Kv SunnySky motors be suitable?

That Kv value is too small. You'd need 2300Kv+ when using 5inch props.

Yeah, was afraid of that. Thanks for the quick response!

What size dampening balls is everyone using? I've had no luck finding a good size, and was hoping for suggestions.

Can you help - I have bought your suggested 4X-Racerstar-Racing-Edition-2204-BR2204-2300KV-2-3S-Brushless-Motors but they won't arrive for a few days so I've nothing to check with.

Which of the arms do I need to print off for these motors? - I'm guessing the Peon230_Arm_v1_22sizeMotor.stl?


Yes the 22 size arms for the 22xx size motors

how much did it cost all up?

Is there any chance you got the files in solidworks?

Dear Tech2C
Do you mind if I give my email address for your help? Because I have all goods about peon 230. But ESC, motors and flight controller wires so complex for me. And I have no idea how I can fix them. So I need some help about this issue. Could you please give me your email address and I will send some pic about my good. May be you can help me or anybody can help me please..

Hi, send me some pictures in case of no feedback. I try to help you. Maybe I send you some shots about my setup.
Good luck.

mail: bigkenikol at gmail dot com

Tech2C did you have any severe crashes with the drone and know how durable it is? I tried a artificial weight test and a small drop on concrete totally wrecked standoff locations, ripped them apart. Maybe it could be possible to use something to improve the durability? I am using PET-G at 30% infill for top and bottom.

How much does the frame weigh?

Sorry, nevermind. It says 100g in the video.

do anyone have a bottom frame plate i can buy?

I am new to Quadcopters and I have decided to build this excellent design. It has a lot of tutorials and many people have made it.
I want to buy all the components , but i am not sure if I should buy the ones recommended by Tech 2C because after reading the comments, I see many people use all different combinations.
I am educating myself slowly but I don't want to buy the wrong things
I would appreciate any advice anyone could give me.

Hello Friend. I have the following motors: cf2822 which has a distance of approximately 25mm between one hole and another. This project is only 22mm. It would be possible for you to launch an update that caters to those larger engines. Or even make the arm file available so we can change it according to our needs? Thank you!

Could you recommend me a charger for the battery that you have recommended? Also do you still recommend these parts?

I've updated the parts list with a LiPo battery charger and cables.

PLA or ABS ? Nice drone. I'm very interested.

do you have a good tutorial video how to set up the Flight controller board?
I see a lot of youtube vids but I din't find a good for this board.

Thank you

the motors cw or cww refer to the thread direction but how do you get the motor to spin the other way

for standard 3-phase brushless motors, you can swap any of the two wires going to the esc and that will change the motor direction

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Could you upload the files in something other than STL? Too many Facets to open up in solidworks to modify. Thanks

Got my Peon flying yesterday. I bought a wifi sj4000 camera to start. Maybe later I'll get a 5.8 FPV.
Tons of fun, I just have to practice.

Crashed it pretty good a couple times, I completely rebuilt it in ABS. The PlA was just too brittle. This thing is crazy fast with a 75c 1300 11.4v and the 12amp bhelis. 2300 kv's with the camera its around 600g. Flying only in angle mode from now on. Oh man.

Heres a link to the frame on youtube, I gave you props. Ha no pun intended.

I've been researching a ton online for the best cost parts to build my peon. Banggood has the best deals but the shipping time could be out to a month and that would kill me. The price from retailers in the states is almost double so that's out of the question. Ebay has some things but it's unreliable, I saw a guy selling an eachine drone with it powered up and no antenna attached. I guess he didn't know that could fry the receiver. Amazon has a few things and there shipping time is better but if you compare the price to Banggood it's outrageous. I found this


112.99 with a transmitter and free shipping. I might just scavenge it for parts. It would be cheaper than buying everything and the Transmitter.
Any thoughts?

That's on sale at the moment 62% off, plus you can add another 20% off code. That deal is too good to pass up...!

I tried to add the other 20% and it didn't do anything but it's still a crazy deal. I'm waiting for 2 quadcopters right now, the wltoys Q222 and the JJRC H26D. Got both for 55.00 ish each. If I get another my wife may disown me. The waiting is killing me slowly.

Haha fair enough. There are various shipping options from Banggood to select at checkout. If you don't mind paying a bit extra to get it sooner.

I looked into that, if you use anything other than free shipping you may get tagged with import fees when the package arrives. Personally I don't like that Idea.

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Recently designed my own quad, but can't fly it as the frame vibrates too much. I used PETG so it is decently flexible. What material would you recommend for a frame instead?

I used high temp pla, the type you anneal in the oven after printing and it's pretty rigid. Haven't crashed it yet though.


Unfortunately I have not found any good tutorial for the mentioned flight controller (OZE32), and as far as I see currently it is out of stock on Banggod.

Can I use this flight controller for the drone:

Is there any modification necessary in the electronic parts? For example motors or etc?

Thank you in advance.

I am looking also to buy some parts and begin a build but I see the esc link no longer works.

I just checked, it works for me.

Sorry. I said esc but it is actually the aio flight controller link not working.

Ok, updated now to the new F3 version at Banggood.

The CC3D flight controller doesn't include an On Screen Display (OSD) which can be used to overlay information on the FPV live footage, such as battery voltage, receiver signal strength, artificial horizon, etc. It also doesn't have a Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) meaning you will need to supply 5volts to the electronics some other way. Also no Power Distribution Board (PDB) so you need to join the ESC and battery wires together some other way too.

Basically the new F3 FC has everything inbuilt which makes it a cleaner, lighter, easier build.

Thank you for the info, one other question. Could you please share some how to video for the F3FC? I check youtube but i didn't find any good tutorial video how to use this Fligh Controller.


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I printed this over 6 months ago, and decided to finish it off over the last few days. I'm having some stability issues but since I'm running Cleanflight on the flip32 flight controller I can hopefully get this thing tuned in.

Considering this is the first drone I've made; it was a great project and the model is great for using zip ties to secure the hardware; and the motor mounts worked great. As far as a frame to outlay your electronics its a good one.

Looking for a working setup from Banggood, maybe someone can post some links what stuff works good

This is what I used:
from myrcmart

Here is a video of my final make; shot from a DJI Phantom 3 Pro. The maiden flight ended with some broken props, but as you can see; it works.


1 x L-C Power Filter-2A (Max 16V Input) (RCX03-794) = USD3.99
1 x OpenPilot CC3D (Rev.C) Flight Controller (Straight Pin / With Case) (RCX08-037) = USD10.99
4 x WL-V262-03 - Motor Holder (WL-V262-03) = USD2.00
1 x HC-SR04 Ultrasonic Module Distance Measuring Transducer Sensor for Arduino (RCX08-129) = USD0.99
1 x Flip32 (V2.6_Rev6) Flight Controller (RCX08-106) = USD14.99
1 x Mini Power Distribution Board (Black / 2-3g / 35x35mm, 30.50x30.50mm, 30x30mm) (RCX03-674) = USD0.99
1 x RCX 1806-2 2300KV Motor Value Combo (4 x 1806 / 4 x 5030CF / 4 x 10A) (RCX07-256) = USD79.99
1 x Magic (Velcro) Tape, Hook & Loop (60x50mm / High Viscosity / Pair) (RCX03-817) = USD0.99

I would personally go for the Flip32+ the next time; or shop around if there are any better flight controllers that may interest you. Have a look at my make to see what you get... and buy extra propellers.

Are there any good tutorials on how to put the electronics together? The one video here pretty much goes from here's the stuff to here it is installed without showing the middle.

Thank you, that is the best diagram I have seen on this. It should get me in the right direction.

I'll share once I'm done and I can get it flying.

I made a guide on regroups here:

It's not step by step but it's a good place to start.

I made a guide on regroups here:

It's not step by step but it's a good place to start.

I'm only 12 so don't beat me is the cw and ccw the thread or rotation


can you also make a frame that can hold a gimbal that would be realy cool for people that are realy into areal filming thanks!

It would need to be bigger for good photography.

hi tech2c i made my quad without the fpv cam i was wondering it it will wreak the weight of the quad it is a little shorter than the regular quad but still looks the same does it have to be that big?

It's totally up to you how to build your drone.

Hi Tech2c

Just going to attempt your build. Bit of a rookie at drone building, was going to ask if I follow your videos and instructions will that get everything setup and done? Or is there a step that you haven't touched on regarding configuring the software, programming, assigning the controller to receiver, calibrating ESC's etc? If so, especially regarding how to configure the software for the board that you have recommended, can you provide step by step instructions on the missing steps? That way I can go from 0 to 100% in my build with some good guidance :)

Cheers mate,


Follow the manual for your desired (FC flight controller) there should be a lot of information on how to do the calibration and setup. I used a Flip32 also known as a Naze board as my FC then I used the chrome extension (cleanflight) to interface with the flight controller. This can all be done before you start your build. I would buy OneShot preflashed or compatible ESC's it seems to be the best way to go; but I haven't tried it.

what remote do you use

You can choose the remote you want to use; as long as it is compatible with the receiver you choose; It should have a minimum of 6 channels. There are some affordable 8 channel transmitters and receivers that work well with the frame. Choose your flight controller first.

Hi from Turkey. First of all you deserve many thanks about this topic. I need your comment about Lipo battery. Can I use below link battery? İf yes what is the different this from Dinogy 3S 1000mah 65c?

Also Could you please tell me the what is the meaning of 1000mAh 3S 65C XT60? I am trying to find some information about these specification. Many thanks.

Best regards

In the battery you mentioned there is 3 cells, and the other one has 4. You can go with the battery in the link.

1000mAh is milliamp hour, battery capacity.
3S means there is 3 cells in the battery.
65C is the discharge over time value. The higher C rating is, the faster you can accelerate, because you can feed the drone with a higher amp compared to a lower C rated battery.

I'm also from Turkey. If you have any questions just message me.

Hi, I'm 13 years old and I'm from Spain, near Barcelona. I already have a Syma X5C but I want to improve my knowledge. I love this idea and now I have the oportunity to print this model but for me it's very difficult to undersand all this vocabulary in English.

This is what I have on my mind:

  • Motor: RCX 1804 2400kv x2 CW and x2 CCW (By the way, what's the difference between CW and CCW? Because in Ebay is only available the CW ones in Spain)

  • ESC: ZTW Spider 18A BLHELI x 4

  • Battery: Dinogy 3S 1000mah 65c (or any other model of around 1000mah)

What cheap transmitter and reciever do you recommend me? And about the Flight Controller, is there another option compatible with the same features (and cheaper)?

Thank you very much!!!
Gerard ;)

Hi Gerard!

Regarding the motors, CW and CCW are acronyms for clockwise and counter-clockwise, basically the thread holding the nut down on the prop has a reverse direction because the motors spin in reverse directions on each corner.

For transmitter, try this one http://www.banggood.com/FlySky-FS-i6-2_4G-6CH-AFHDS-RC-Transmitter-With-FS-iA6B-Receiver-p-983537.html?p=9X051049165582016063

For the flight controller, you won't find a cheaper version with the same features as it includes a lot, but you don't need all the features. So maybe try this one http://www.banggood.com/Diatone-NAZE32B-Thin-6DF-Flight-Controller-REV6B-STM32-F103-Supports-Baseflight-For-RC-Multiroto-p-1051155.html?p=9X051049165582016063

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Thank you very much!!

I haven't understood that history of CW and CCW, the question is, can I buy four CCW motors?
Then I think this transmitter will be fine and about the flight controller... What features include the cheaper one?? Or, what features I won't have buying the cheaper one? Will it work well?
I have found this one http://www.ebay.es/itm/Naze32-Rev6-10DOF-6DOF-Flight-Controller-w-Barometer-Compass-for-Mini-Quadcopter-/191887832825?var=&hash=item2cad67f6f9:m:m54w6ixZcV683R6Evon_Mlg
What's the difference between the two versions (10DOF and 6DOF)?

And what's the difference between this two ESC - ZTW Spider 18A / ZTW Spider 12A?
Sorry about this pile of questions, but I'm very lost...
Thank you so much.

Hi Gerard, I recommend you search on Google for how to build a quadcopter for beginners. If you are unsure about how to connect something, or how to configure the software to make it fly properly, then definitely do some research first before spending money.

For the flight controller, a 6DOF is all that you need. It refers to the sensors on board, 3 gyroscopes and 3 accelerometers for a total of 6 Degrees Of Freedom. Just buy a cheap one that supports Cleanflight.
You can use 4 CCW or 4 CW motors as long as you tighten the props with nyloc nuts.
For the ESC's, 18A and 12A represent the maximum current handling in Amperes of the ESC. 12A is ok for smaller 1804 motors, and 18A is better for larger motors like 2205 size.

Please, could you make sure that all these will work fine?

This (I don't know...):

If you see ANYTHING that could not work please tell me, thank you very much.

The flight controller I use and have linked in the description has an inbuilt power distribution board (PDB).
Look at a few tutorials to ensure you are comfortable with the assembly steps.

Regarding the parts, those motors are designed to have 2 x CW and 2 x CCW. Do not buy 4 of CCW otherwise you'll need to purchase nyloc nuts, which these motors don't come with.
Those ESC's are opto, meaning they don't have an inbuilt 5v BEC. Find a PDB with a 5v BEC inbuilt. The 5v is required to power the flight controller and receiver. Like this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__89566__Super_Mini_Power_Distribution_Board_w_Twin_BEC_5V_12V_for_CC3D_Revo_Flight_Controllers.html
That battery has too small wires and a JST connector. Use a battery like this with XT60 connector http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=21334
Buy a spare pack of XT60 connectors as you need one for the PDB.

Ok Tech2C, I think I have the final products:
First of all, this pack http://goo.gl/rjChKe that includes all that:

  • 1 x Micro CC3D (What features does it have? I mean, if I can connect a camera or FPV or GPS, I don't know...)
  • 4 x 2204-2300KV motor (2CW + 2CCW)
  • 4 x 12A ESC (2-4S opto)
  • 1 x 2-6S 5V3A UBEC
  • 1 x Power Distribution Board (I don't know if this will work as you say)
  • 20 x 6040 Pros (10CW + 10CCW) (I think they should be the 5030 ones right? No problem, I'll buy them...)
  • 1 x Anti-vibration plate
  • 1 x ESC PC software communication adapter
  • 16 x M3 x 6mm round head screws
  • 16 x M3 x 7mm round head screws
  • 1 x pack of ESC power cables
  • 1 x ESC Instructions
  • 1 x USB Cable

Then x2 batteries like the one you recommend me http://goo.gl/56qIXl
And finally, about the transmitter and the reciever, could you recommend one under 50$ (if it's possible). If not I think this https://goo.gl/79dbVq looks pretty good. Do I need something else?
Thanks a lot.

If you are going to use 2204 size motors, then that battery won't do as the C rating is too low. Get the Dinogy battery I listed in the description.
CC3D software is old now, better to get a flight controller with Cleanflight software.

The trick with 3D printed frames is to keep the weight as low as possible so it is more resilient in a crash - less breakages.
If you stick with 1804 motors, the All In One Flight Controller, and ZTW ESC's, that is the lightest setup you can make with full functionality built-in.
But you can buy any of those other setups and of course they will work, albeit a bit heavier.

Ok, I think I will get the big pack. But tell me, If the Mini CC3D flight controller isn't good, please search me a flight controller on HobbyKing.com under 20$ or 15$ where I can connect a camera or an FPV system...
Yes, I know that it will be heavier, but then I prefer to buy 2 1000mah battery than 1 of <1500mah.
Why is this battery not compatible? Is there any cheaper one on HobbyKing.com?

I made my Peon230 :) Thanks Tech2C for this awesome design !
I used the longer arms brought by jimbob4040 : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1038700/

It flight very well, and it's under 150€ including transmitter and receiver.

About 5 minutes of flight time with 1000mAh 25C LiPo, and 7 with 1500

Some videos :
1st flight and crashs :D : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hz1bvefaPHg
2nd flight : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5kS9gxSDIA

Peon Quad 230 reimagined

Little correction :

With 1000mAh 3S I have 6 minutes, with 1500 mAh 3S i have 9 minutes.

Which flight time do you obtain with 1000mAh and 1400mAh LiPo ?

With the 1804 motors from myrcmart, expect 7 minutes from 1000mah, and 10 minutes with 1400mah. Just keep the weight as low as possible otherwise it will reduce your flight time.

thanks for your answer :)

The frame is printed ... I'm waiting for the motors, electronic and battery ... Can't wait !!!
I will put some pics and videos as soon as I have all the kit ;)

do you think it is okay to use the frame with 2204 2300kv motors ?

Thank you! Great job.

What did you use to create this? I ask because I'm currently working on building one and would love to be able to make my own customizations in the future. I use solidworks and importing stls is messy.

I know I'm late to the party here but I am a machinist and have been using Solidworks for years.

STLs suck but with SW2016 they have worked on interfacing with them, one thing I have done to convert this model to something that I can work with in SW was redraw the model while extruding into the STL then once I have it done I hide the STL body.

Just un-check the "Merge" button to make a new body.

I can also post the models that I have redrawn if there is anyone interested.

If you're a student of any kind (or otherwise can afford it) I'd suggest AutoDesk Inventor and downloading Mesh Enabler. Inventor is by far the best CAD software I've ever used. Can even be used for CNC milling (HSM Pro plugin). Mesh Enabler simply allows you to roughly convert stl files into a workable object however does lose some quality so avoid using it on detailed stls

I really, really like this frame and am about to print it out. The only thing I think it is lacking is a way to tilt back the FPV cam. I am kind of surprised that no one has made a remix for that yet. Perhaps I'll work on a way when I build this. Anyway, thanks for sharing your design!


I have actually made a revision that mounts the camera plate at around 12deg up.
I'll start putting those up if others are interested.

Yes please re the FPV camera tilt remix.

Okay I have made a new remix called the "Race Edition"

Thank you very much!

The next Peon frame will mount the FPV cam via a clip rather than a plate. It'll allow mounting at different angles.

Just wanted to say a big thank you, your youtube videos convinced me to finally get a 3d printer :D I have upgraded it and can finally print consistent parts and I just placed the order for everything I need to build this, can't wait! I'll post a make once I get all my parts.

Fantastic! Thanks for the kind feedback. Cheers!

Tech2c inspired my prusa i3 build as well. I'm printing this Peon frame tonight. Cheers.

Thank you very much! Good luck with your Peon build :)

Should I build this one for aerial video? Or is there a better one suited for that? I need something strong enough to carry a run cam hd and I want to have the video jello free if possible :)

Hello, noob question here but is there a reason the bottom and top plates print 3 solid layers before it starts the main print with perimeters and holes? I seem to have wasted an hrs print and a lot of abs material (I stopped the print) the first layer was perfect but to me it seemed pointless if it's not part of the actual frame. Thanks in advance

Hang about I think I know what's up lol error on my end :-/ my raft settings I think.

Ah yes, the old raft trick... :)

Hi! In the description it states 1804 2400KV motors. Will 1806 motors fit the frame? What are the difference?

Yes 1806 will fit perfectly. The difference is the height of the motor.

is there a place where i can order the Non-printed parts required? screws and nuts etc as a package? thanks

They don't have a package specifically for this, but I bought most of the electronics, pops, etc. from HobbyKing.com.

I printed the frame, ordered the hardware and about 90% of the electronics. I will use a Naze32 Rev6 FC. What transmitter, receiver, and OSD do you recommend? This is my first time doing this, but it will not be the last one I build.

I have the Turnigy 9X transmitter with FrSky TX module. For the receiver to match you can use the FrSky D4FR-2 with PPM out. Basically any receiver than can output PPM is perfect for these mini-quads to reduce cable clutter.
For an OSD grab the E-OSD. Cheap, light and just works.

Hi, it seems you've change the infill for the arms and arms support,
Did you have any feedback with the old 50% infill parameters ? I've already printed them at 50% with PLA, i'm worried about solidity now that you've changed the parameters !

That was fast, I just updated it! In my latest YouTube video I compared 50% and solid infill for the arms. Needless to say printing the arms solid provides much higher 'crash' resistance. Not a big issue if you've already printed them at 50%, just replace them if they break with solid arms.

Hi ! Thanks for the videos Tech2C, really helpfull. Your design is excellent, clean, and I think Peon230 is a great design for beginners like myself to better understand quadcopters, so thank you !
Also, It could be great to see more setup suggestions (thank you Dave855).
For now, I've printed the arms with PETG, 45% infill, 3 shells and it seems rock solid with some flexibility.
I also tried HIPS, and the interesting point is that its super lightweight (but i don't know if HIPS properties get along with drones...).

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Hi, I've ordered the parts for a quad and I am considering which frame I will print. This one seems a good option, thank you for the design. I have a question, if you mind.

Because the main force supported by the arms is a vertical thrust, perhaps a thinner and taller arm design could function well, what are your thoughts?

Thank you in advance. Congratulations for the great videos.

ABS @ 50% infill, it is very ridged. No worries.

Hi. The vertical thrust from each motor is about 400g using the recommended setup. The plastic arms have no problem maintaining their shape during thrust pumps. Where problems do occur is during an uncontrolled landing... :)

Of course, thanks.

I'm a newbie for the quadcopter hobby, I have plenty of other RC's. I'd really like to build this one but do you have more of a BOM for a recommended setup? I noticed the motors you're using are out of stock at the moment.


Hi, you mention printing @ 0.2mm layer height with 3 perimeters, what would be the result if printed with 0.3mm layer height & same perimeters? Would the parts still all go together?

i have printed a set in 0.2 but would like to try 0.3 or if anyone has tried as of yet?


Yep 0.3mm should be fine. At 0.3mm the z layer height isn't divisible evenly with these parts, so your slicing program will either add or subtract 1 z layer.
Not a problem with this frame :)

Are 250 arms possible on this frame, or would the body need to be extended then? Guess longer arms must be thicker to avoid flex/vibration.

I could lengthen the arms to accommodate a 250 wheelbase, however I don't think 6inch props would fit, you'd still be stuck with 5inch props.
Most likely I'd have to tilt the rear arms back a touch, plus slightly longer arms all round would suffice for 6inch props. The front arms would have to stay the same angle to ensure the props aren't visible to FPV cameras.

Thanks for the quick reply. I guess the other option is to trim the props to "bullnose" them. I've seen a prop trimmer 3D model on here too I wanted to try. I'll give that a go :-)

Any plans to release a 250mm version? Or maybe upload the CAD for the arms so we can make it a 250? This is a great design and I'd like to enter one in the local 250 racing class.

Just import the .stl into Autodesk Fusion 360 (free for makers) and resize them there :)

Awesome ! Videos are well made and easy to understand. Are you in WA by any chance mate? Cheers

Cheers! It just so happens that I do reside in the Wild West ;)

Awesome....good to have talented locals !

I printed this copter with the parts suggested... its really hard to calibrate, I got it in the air for a maximum of 10 seconds and then it always crashed somewhere XD
Does anyone have an Idea how to pretect the propellers? Is there sth like a frame for this quadcopter?

Beautiful design. It pushed me over the edge on buying a 3D printer. In purchasing a 3D printer, what size printer bed is needed? Will it fit on one of the 200x200x170 printers? What should I avoid? Thanks!


Hi Max, glad to hear you've jumped on the 3D printing wagon :)

Yeah that bed size is more than enough for this quadcopter frame. You can print each piece separately anyhow to save space further. As it's your first printer, maybe print this frame from PLA plastic initially, as ABS can be a little tricky with warping if the bed isn't hot enough.

Good luck!

Fantastic results! After putting together the Prusa-type 3D printer (a challenge in itself), I calibrated and made a few doodads just to get the settings right, then printed off all the Peon230 parts. As you suggested, I used PLA and it worked like a charm. I had pretty much all the hardware sitting around from other multi-rotor projects, so it was a snap to assemble the frame. I haven't installed the motors, ESCs, APM, etc yet, but will get to that soon. I have a standard APM 2.6 controller (my favorite), which is a bit large for this frame. I will probably pick up a mini APM to use instead. My only modification was to add four 20mm nylon spacers to the bottom to act as landing skids. Excellent job designing this. Tolerances are perfect, it fits together like a glove. Many thanks!


That's great news Max!
You've gone from ordering a 3D printer kit to a fully assembled Peon230 frame - that is an achievement in itself.

Let me know how it fly's :)

Thanks for the feedback. A Prusa i3 is on it's way. I ordered an ABS spool with it, but will order some PLA as well for my first try. I'll post photos when I'm done. I think I have enough bits and pieces sitting around to assemble a full quad when I'm done printing. Thanks again.


There are screw holes on the arms. Are you planning something for those? Are there legs that you know of that would mount on those screws holes?

Thank you for making this. I'm very excited to fly it.

Hi Jeffeb3,

The screw holes are optional for you to attach feet if you wish. The simplest feet would be M3 Nylon spacers of say 10mm in length, attached with M3x6mm countersunk screws to the arm.

Good luck with your build! :)


Very good job. I have tried to print these differents parts but i have some troubles.

On my printer, a Prusa i3 with hot bed, i print with ABS, 230° C for hotend and 110° c for bed and i have some wrapping on the parts. How did you avoid this wrapping?

Thanks a lot.


I had difficulties also with warping. The best thing to avoid warping is aceton ABS glue. It works 100%! Try it.

I tried ABS glue that works but with the arms there is loads of cleanup, now i use "3d lac" (non scented hairspray) that works better since there is no cleanup, depending on the shape i add 1 layer round spots on the part to help it stick.

Thanks Freddrob.

ABS can be tricky to print these parts as they are wide and flat. Bed temperature is important, and I found using an aluminium heatbed evenly distributes the heat throughout the entire surface of the bed. Previously I was using a PCB heatbed with a glass top, and the temperature variation from the centre of the bed to the edge was 20c colder!

I also use 3M branded Blue Painters Tape as the print surface. Make sure the first layer is smooshed down to better adhere to the surface. Also make sure you don't have a draft blowing over the ABS part as it prints.

Hopefully this helps.

I am having some trouble printing the top. It is printing as to be expected initially, then halfway through the print it offsets then entire model down and to the right by 5mm (down 5mm and right 5mm). Anyone else having this problem? I am printing on a newly built printrbot metal simple with heated bed and using 1.75mm PLA and Cura. Any ideas on how to correct this? Thanks!

Check your belt tension, given that it's happening halfway though, check your stepper drivers and make sure they are not skipping steps. possibly slow down your printers travel speed to avoid it/increase current to driver

Thanks for the response. I will do some investigating. I think it might be the PLA spool getting knotted and no allowing the Y-axis to travel appropriately. Thanks again. I can't wait to finish the build!

or it could be a gear slipping on the motor shaft....just loose enough to occasionally hang and loose steps like it was in my case ;) causing the whole print to shift position all at once about 2/3 rds of the way through a 13hr print is when i fixed mine, It would only slip occasionally though i guess as the singularities added up........ hope this helps

how long would it take to print all this on a makerbot 2 with all the settings you said? i need to know because i do not own a a 3d printers and need to go somewhere else

Hours. Probably 6.

Great design, i really like it!
Did you do that in Cubify Design?
Would you release the source files too?

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Hey, awesome quadcopter! We are trying to build it but are having some troubles (beginners)...

Are there any good guides on how to connect the speed controllers and reciever to flight controller? We have the following set-up:


Here's a Google Drive folder with pictures. I would be so happy if someone could just guide us in the right direction or point out what we are doing wrong!


Howdy. I had a look at your photos, nice work so far!

Regarding the NanoWii user guides, the Hobbyking link for the NanoWii has the guides within the "Files" tab. Check them out!
With your receiver you'll have to connect at least 5 channels plus power to the NanoWii, but first you'll have to solder pins to the inputs of the NanoWii (only the outputs have pins soldered).

I attached some pictures of the documents from both the receiver user guide and nanoWii user guide. I am beginning to understand how they are supposed to be connected to the receiver but where is the Aileron, Elevator, Rudder, Gear and Flap wires supposed to match on the NanoWii? Is that an obvious, stupid question?

Not a stupid question, you are very close. The NanoWii.png image shows the wiring perfectly. I'd say the names are a little confusing.

Aileron=Roll, Elevator=Pitch, Rudder=Yaw, Gear=Aux1(or2), Flaps=Aux2(or 1), and of course there's Throttle. It's best to solder pins to the receiver inputs of the NanoWii (empty holes currently) so you can easily connect between your receiver and nanowii.

Great job man!
I have some questions, can you explain me which BECs are you using, and how did you make the fpv power filter?
thank you!

Hey Thx! The ESC's are 10A with inbuilt 1A BEC's plus SimonK firmware loaded.
The FPV power filter is just an L-C circuit. I wrap the positive wire through a toroid a dozen loops, plus a 1000uF capacitor in parallel with the positive and negative wires. Here's a useful link http://www.fpvuk.org/how-tos/lc-filters/

Nice design I really like the attention to detail, and how the arms lock into place is pretty neat - the skeleton frame on the bottom plate is a great idea too!

Any chance on getting the source files (whatever they may be) ? I would like to modify a few things like motor mounting holes and I wanted to try and add extra motor protection built into the arms. I use Autodesk Inventor but can import from a few different formats..

It is already very sturdy as is though! printing the last two arms now.


Hi, just to say that I have almost completed the print!! Thank you very much for sharing this design with us all in the Multicopter community!! This is my very first Mini Quad frame print as I have only recently joined the 3D side of our hobby and I am still tuning my BQ prusa i3 after fitting a heated bed. Keep up the good work and those much anticipated youtube videos which were instrumental in me going for a Prusa and not an XYZ Da Vinci or Wanho printer. regards Jules

Thanks for the kind words Jules. The journey was a long one and I'm sharing my experiences with youtube which may help others too.
When your printer is good to go please share your printed Peon230 frame pictures with us ;)

Just printed one goes together nice but the tabs on the fpv plate are too thick and wide for the holes (or it is the bottom plate holes) could it just be a setting that i did wrong?

It boils down to each printers tolerances. With tight fitting parts there's bound be noticeable differences. It's better that it's a tight fit than loose, because you can simply sand/slice a little bit away until it fits snuggly ;)

I am realy liking this frame so far. I will be modding my blade 200 qx into one and later making one with naze 32 and 4x 12a afro esc. Motors still undecided. I still have arms printing but this fits my needs and budget. Thank you.

Should I use CCW or CW motors? this is my first Quadcopter and I'm really lost.

Thank you,

You need 2 of each. Depending on the flight controller, you install the CW motors on front left and back right arms, CCW motors front right and back left arms.

I'm looking at this setup please let me know if this would be ok.

--> 10AMP
--> BEC: 5V/3A
--> SimonK firmware

2X Motor
--> RCX 1804 2400kv (CCW)

2X motor
--> RCX 1804 2400kvr (CW)

1X Controller
--> OpenPilot CC3D Flight Controller STM32

1X Battery
--> LiPo Battery Pack 1550mAh 2S 7.4v 20C

2X Prop
5x3 (CW)

2X Prop
5x3 (CCW)

--> No idea

--> No idea

I find forums give little information on complete DIY, I've found some useful info but most of what I'm finding is kit based and modifying purchased kits. I finished printing the frame last night and really excited about giving this a go. So thank you in advance for the help! When all is said and done I will like my photos!

Thank you,

Hey I thought I would just share what I put in mine: (All from my RC Mart)

http://www.myrcmart.com/flip32-v23rev6-flight-controller-p-8049.html Flip32+
http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-h18066-2400kv-micro-outrunner-brushless-motor-motor-16-5030-p-8045.html RCX1806 Motors
http://www.myrcmart.com/product_info.php?products_id=8055{11}69 Counter Rotating prop hubs (Just needed two)
http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-12a-sky-simonk-brushless-esc-for-multicopter-23s-p-8051.html 12Amp SimonK ESC

http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-rc732dvr-inch-58ghz-32ch-lcd-diversity-receiver-fpv-monitor-p-8509.html FPV Monitor
http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-ts832-58ghz-32ch-fpv-video-transmitter-600mw-12v-output-for-camera-p-8519.html VTX
http://www.myrcmart.com/product_info.php?products_id=8435{25}159 Sony 800TVL
http://www.myrcmart.com/minim-osd-kv-team-mod-v10-p-8100.html MinimOSD

The batteries I am using are ThinderPower 2250 3S 30C which are providing between 10-13 Minutes of flight time.

Over all the power system is quite well matched the motors and ESCs only slightly warm to the touch after a flight even with the heavier 2250 battery.

Happy flying!

Thanks for this, already started building, will share the progress. Using a MultiWii MiniWii, had to edit the base a bit to match mounting holes.

What do you mean 3 perimeters? Like shell thickness?

PLA is much rigid, but weaker...

Whatever you like. I've used ABS.

Hey question for you. I am a noob and was wondering how do you peal off the base once the print is done. Do you do it when it finishes right away or wait? sorry for the dumb question

Definitely wait until the part has cooled down close to room temperature.
I print on blue painters tape, therefore I use a cheap box knife with the disposable blade extended all the way to pry off the part from one side to the other - like a spatula.

Would you mind sharing the original CAD files? Trying to get .STL into SolidWorks is a real chore!


Nice frame.but why it looks not a real square ..

What size of flight controllers will this support? I want to use a HKPilot Mega 2.7 but the dimensions are 44x70x15mm . I know most frames I've seen so far usually do 45x45 max.

Awesome design btw! I hope I can use it with the HKPilot Mega 2.7

Because the APM board is 70mm long, the width of 44mm is too wide to fit between the nylon spacers. The micro version of the APM board will fit perfectly though, albeit more expensive.

Great job!
It well be my second fpv racer.
Greetings from sunny Gran Canaria :-)

Cool. Please keep us updated on its performance.
Lol, I had to Google Maps search your location - Wow what a great place!

Thank you for the new video, that helps immensely. My naze32 board fits the mounting holes perfectly with (now) 5mm polycarbonate spacers. I'll try to save some weight, but I think I will end up at 450g without HD cam, but with apx. 400g of thrust per motor with 5x4 props.
I'm still waiting on those ESCs and battery from hobbyking, and the FPV cam from seccam2000. More pics and maybe a video are coming once i get it airborne :-)
Thank you again for this brilliant design!

Comments deleted.

Printed one and it came together nicely. I will use it with Multistar Elite 2300KV motors and 12A Mystery/Blue/Afro ESCs with SimonK, a Naze32 FC and a 1.4Ah 3S battery. Still waiting on some parts (12mm countersunk screws a just a tiny bit short of gripping the nut on my print) but I will post my final built here.
Still not sure about FPV gear yet. I will probably try out one of those 600TVL Sony cams.

Have you thougt about designing longer arms for 6" props?

Great to hear you had a successful print! That power system will be awesome. I can easily get 10mins flight time with my setup, including FPV gear, Mobius and 1550mah 3S battery - all up weight of 438grams.

The CCD camera I have is the 600TVL Sony PZ0420 from securtiycamera2000 website.

This frame is designed to be small, so 6 inch props won't fit. In fact 5 inch props are mere millimeters apart from each other as it is...

You are right with the 5" props, I had hoped I could use them on a 2S battery with my motors and so could use a 1500-2000 mAh Pack, but I think it will be just fine.
The meassurements for the screws are actually spot on, I didn't try to screw the arms on with 12mm but with 10mm screws. So 12mm will fit exactly.

Any chance you could make a version with a 45° rotated mounting pattern for the motors? As of now, the motor wires dont run directly on the arm.

How did you mount the ESCs and did the power distribution? Do you habe any pictures on the finished quad?

Kind regards and thank you for this great build!

The chosen angle of the arms is to ensure the props aren't visible in the view of the FPV camera and HD camera. This angle was a compromise I had to make to keep the chassis as small as possible.

ESC's are mounted on the arms. Power is distributed direct to all ESC's via wires. I'll be uploading another YouTube video in my channel in the next few days showing my setup.


Nice job, added to my things to make. Thanks for sharing.

This'll just barely fit in my 6x6 printer; I'm very tempted. Would I be able to put a PilotHD V2 camera in your frame? Thanks in advance for any info/help!

Yeah that camera would mount on the FPVcam part within the main body. No need to use the HDcam mount then.
You'd have to use velcro or double sided foam tape to affix it though, unless there's screw mounting holes on your camera.

Awesome! It ll be my next fpv racer!!

Cool! Let us know your results :)