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Macro lens adapters for Nikon F-mount

by Physics_Dude Jan 5, 2015
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This came out pretty nice on my Ender 3, both flanges fit very nicely on the lens and D810. The 20mm spacer didn’t give me quite the closeness I was hoping for with my old 35-70, printing the 40mm one now!! Thank you very much for this well designed adapter!
Printed in Amazon Basics PETG
0.1mm layers
250C Hotend
80C Bed
15mm/s Speeds
Supports: Yes

is this ok for DX-sized sensors?

Yes, but I've only personally tried it on a D3100 with an APS-C sensor.

Thanks for this awesome print.
Just to inform you that i've made a Remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2590631

Nikon Macro F-Mount Extender 20mm / 40mm / 80mm
by Linkwed

don't get how to lock the lens with the pin and the ring... saw the video but could not make out where that ring went

The newer locking ring replaces the rubber band+locking pin.

hi thank you for the reply...

the locking ring keeps the lens loose... so any idea how can i make it sit the lens tight?

A little jiggle on the lens is to be expected. As long as the pin on the locking ring is fully seated in the corresponding notch on the lens, and as long as the lens doesn't rotate freely to the unlocked position, it should be alright. Poor print quality can also be an issue. I'd still keep a hand on the lens at all times if you are unsure.

ok... thanks for the great work!!! :-) appreciate it :-)

nice i have been thinking about making a interface simular too this so i can try too put a lens like this on a cammera i picked up from good will where the original lens had gotten broken.

HI guys, excellent work!
I know almost nothing about 3d printing and was going to use order a printing based on your files. I am using a Nikon d5600 with a 18-140 mm lens and this is to be used to decrease my focal length to scan negatives. What materials are you using to print?

Thanks. I recommend you use black PLA or ABS.

suggestion, post up in the description to not use transparent filament cuz it lets in more light and in my case i used see through orange now all my pictures come out with an orange hue lolol

So I made this and it fits great, but my D3300 refuses to acknowledge the presence of a lens, so I can't take any pictures. Any fix for that?

Comments deleted.

Ah, I found the solution! Just need to put the camera in Manual mode, rather than aperture :)

was gunna say but you got it lol

This is awesome, and works better than I expected it might. It's a lot more sturdy than I would have imagined too. The only setback really is that you can't adjust the aperture on newer lenses. It seems plausible though to add a ring that'd be able to rotate, so the aperture could be adjusted, but seeing that it's printed parts, it may be a bit rough/fragile.

Would this work with a Nokia D3300 and the standard kit lens ?

Works great on mine.

It might be obvious, but I would add a disclaimer. With wome lenses the lock doesn't hold that well and when you turn your lens to zoom or focus, you can accidentally release it. I was lucky to hold it strong enough, so I cought it.

What actually works very well for me is a weird combination - new lens lock (side click) but to add a rubber band above it. It adds additional pressure to the side click so that not even the bigger of my lenses release the lock just by strong side force :)

Anyway this is just a detail, it works amazingly well :)

I took a closer look at the locking ring and found that it had a bit of a design error. The inner and outer faces were not concentric with each other which caused one half of it to be a bit too flimsy. I fixed that in the updated-updated version, and also increased its width slightly to make it more rigid all around.

Oh how cool is that, that was a quick fix! And also thanks for the kind words on the video I made :)

Both the 40mm and 20mm worked great with my Series E 50mm lens! I cut the aperture lug off so I could use stop-down metering and have depth of field preview options. I've always wanted a set of extension tubes!

you do not have this standard adapter for infinite focus?

Very nice thank you, just a tip for anyone if you print this and have issues with the aperture opener lug just tweek it a little with a hot soldering iron,even if printed with a raft

Works phenomenally, Thank you very much!


This was almost a dream come true until I realized the obvious. I actually have a Nikon J1 camera for filming high-speed video and basic shots. Anyways, it requires an F-mount adapter (called the FT-1 adapter) from a Nikon 1 lens mount type to F-mount type. I suppose if this was made, then it could be combined with these already made. Or, these could be made with a Nikon 1 mount type for direct fit.

What do you think about this, is it a possibility somehow to bring to life here? The main difference I see, is that the tabs which engage the camera body are 2-long, 1-short, still in a 120 degree orientation like the F-mount. I can provide any needed measurements if so.

Thank you!

Can the two mount types even mesh with each other? I know they intrinsically different, but it might be worth seeing if they can fit regardless.
If not, in order to design a new macro adapter, all you would need to do is find a 3D model of both a lens cap and a body cap that fit your kit, then just connect the two with a hollow cylinder in something simple like Tinkercad. That's what I did.

Yeah, and I could do that, also. I use A.Desk Inventor for modeling. Do you have any ideas, other than here, where one would look for other model (and source IPT, etc) files? I still don't fully understand this specific site--sources are rarely listed that I've seen, just STLs or source requests, which would make "remixes" incredibly easier for those who know CAD by having the source there for majority of models. I also seem to detect high visible faces, or low polygon count around here. Parts I design in Inventor come out exported in STL as a perfectly smooth taper or cone, where as here, a 50mm diameter taper may have 20 visible connected faces to form the cone shape. Inventor doesn't slow my PC down at all, so I don't know why other programs would not auto increase polygon count. Not meaning to sidetrack conversation. Your point is well taken. That was a quick reply, too. Thank you much for your help.

Maybe I'll just ask for some other sites/models around the Simplify3D forums(?)

But yes, maybe after a print, I can touch it on the grinding wheel in a few places to make it fit. Or, I may be able to design a semi-decent version myself, just very slowly and carefully. ;D

Google's your friend when it comes to finding obscure model sources.

You know, I just took a look at my Nikon body and, similar to what you described, the F-bayonets are all different sizes (approx 22, 20, and 18mm). Also, the opening is about 46.6mm in diameter. A quick Google search tells me that your J1 camera has a similar pattern, but is about 4-8mm smaller in diameter. Maybe you could simply scale the macro adapter down to around 81.5% or 90% and see if that fits.

Also, you'll have to use a full manual lens with these since the J1 camera won't be able to open the aperture without an electrical connection to the lens.

Hi Physics_Dude

I'd like to design an adapter and needed the Nikon-F-Bajonet. Would you like to share your CAD-file? The STL file is good for printing, but not for going further with the design, i guess.

Kind regards

I cobbled this up in a couple minutes using Tinkercad; I believe it can only export STL files.
As listed on the "Thing Info" tab, I imported (remixed) user gcardinal's F-mount rear lens cap, and user hot_soup_in_space's F-mount body cap in order to make this.

Here is the Tinkercad link for the 40mm adapter if you want to give it a shot. The only difference between all three is the height of a hollow cylinder between the two end caps: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/4w0QuEada8U-40mm-macro-nikon-adapter

Wow, what a great design. Works like a charm! :) Incredible results.
Maybe, when it "clicks" when it is attached into de body, it still rotate a little, but 100% usable.

The idea to control the aperture manually is great.

Please, ¿Can you reupload the .stl with more triangles? (more quality export adjustment, for a perfect tubular result and less "poligonal"

Thanks in advance and greetings!

Great job, I love it!!

any shear/breaking issues with it printed in the orientation you've got? What infill settings etc did you use? Just curious if I hang a heavier lens off one of these tubes - would hate to have it break off when I wasn't ready to catch it!

I've torqued these adapters to each other pretty firmly and bairly heard a sound. I print them in PLA with a 0.5mm nozzle, 0.25mm layers, 4 perimeters and about 25% infill.
It should hold up to most abuse, but I'd still hold the lens firmly with the camera's strap around your neck whenever possible.