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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Large scale Divers watch desk clock

by francfalco Jan 3, 2015
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I found this by accident, and my heart skipped a beat. This is the best thing here, with the best how-to guide, and very high quality files. No problems printing, I am even printing one of the larger files with 0,3mm as I will polish and paint it later I (hope) to get rid of the imperfections, but it builds super-nicely, this is great project for even for a beginner. I am about half way done with printing and not one issue whatsoever, I really appreciate this project, as a watch collector and especially collector of dive watches, this makes so much fun to print I will likely make a lot of these.

So glad you like the design and thanks for the compliments!

I always appreciate when anyone prints this design as i know how challenging it can be, but very satisfying once complete!

And please don't forget to get the short-shafted/neck (continue sweep) movement, other wise the hands may not fit under the glass.

Good luck with the project and please upload pictures once complete.


Hi Francfalco is it possible for you to make the bracelet inner and outer links individual and not as a group,

as i don't want to have more than 2 or 3 links on each side otherwise it would be to big.

or even individual stl of just the small piece of the bracelet that way i can have 3 on each side.

i would do it myself but have no idea how to do it in cura.


it may look better to have it cut clean so a mid-section of a link, and for very easy cutting in half, the Windows 10 "3D builder" app is very good and easy to use. And you can emboss some text signature on the sides of the links.

Hi nicer1,

Do you have access to any 3D software? If not, I would download one of the various free 3d softwares, Blender, Sketchup, etc.
It will be easy to delete whichever links you don't need and re-save as .stl

Hi thank you so much for the design it looks amazing!!
My question is, i've printed it at 200% bigger will that be a problem when i install the quartz mechanism.
As i don't want to buy it and it doesn't fit.

200%! what printer do you use?

Should be plenty of room for the movement, just make sure to get one with a longer shaft so the hands have room.

Would love to see pictures when finished please


Hi i use a CR-10S , 200% was about as big as i could fit. i will load pictures when its finished

Thanks for the fast reply

found what i needed in the instruction. sorry I should have read them first

Yep, do read those instructions please!
There is also a blank version of the face as an option.
Good luck and please post pictures when finished.

Hi can you please tell me where i can get the CERTIFIED 3D PRINTED file


The link of the "quartz movement mechanism" seems to be broken.
Anyone has the specs of the shaft length / diameter ?
...or a link of Aliexpress/Banggood.


I'll update that links with a live example but if you Google 'Quartz clock movement short neck/shaft'.
I'm sure all the diameters are standard, its just the shaft length that changes?
Get the shortest neck/shaft you can find to allow the hands to fit under the glass (5mm thread) and a sweep (non-ticking) type for the quality timepiece experience!

Thanks. So the model without thread shaft is the one I should pick ?
Cheers, Peter

I never used that version, but it should work okay. Shorter is better to fit the hands under the face glass.

This is a common item used in labs everywhere.
There is probable a suppler near you in the UK, try looking search for
100mm Plain Watch Glass Beaker Cover.
All of the dive watches I have had are flat face, so I don't know if the dome will take away from you design

Thanks for the Dive Watch, I have started printing one out.
The design look very well done, once I finish it I will post a picture.
Have a great day and thanks again for posting your design so all can enjoy.

Hi Guys
I came across some glass beaker cover that are 100mm.
They have a dome so they give more clearance for the hands,
for those that are having problems.
They go for $11.00 for 10 here is the link.



With the link you attached, will there be no problems without any glue during the assembly process?

Do you mean the domed glass discs link?
I haven't used those type for my versions but i'd imagine a thin line of glue around the edge will suffice

Never seen a domed face used - i'd be interested to see how it looks? Don't ship to UK unfortunately.

Thanks for info!

yes, it uses a battery quartz clock mechanism - check details for information

Thanks for the great design! I can't wait to finish this.
For the meantime, I think I've found an error in your (great) PDF:
When I open Clasp_hinge_latch file in slic3r, it looks like Clasp_hinge_clasp in the pdf, and vice-verse. Am I right?

Hi reformy,

The pdf issue hasn't been mentioned before but let me check.

Thanks for the comments and please post when you have the watch finished, I always appreciate anyone completing this project!


Is here somebody, who printed this watches with 1,75 mm filament (printer ender 3)?
Which layer height and infill percentage did you use?

Can anyone recommend a movement that will fit in this?

This type of thing

Whatever movement you get, make sure you get a 'short neck' type, otherwise the hands won't fit under the glass


Does it perfectly fit when you assembly the parts (any possible file modification)?

Make sure you select the short shaft/neck option. you only need 5mm or so of threaded neck. I recall the short neck total length is about 10mm?If you can find a sweep (non ticking) movement, than all the better! Some come with a hanging tab, if so, that will need to be removed to fit inside the case.

Currently in the middle of making another one with the movement you suggested but I found a movement with an even shorter shaft that I was currently working with and have in a completed working model if you or anyone else is interested:

I used this one by using a 3/8" washer no more then 1.5mm thick (you could also print a washer) and gluing it in between the movement and the dial. Slightly modified hour hand is needed (higher set hand) to do this and make this movement work but def worth it. I will upload the stl for the hour hand once I figure out how!

Awesome, I will try it out. Thanks for the quick reply.

Actually the supports along the back are easy, it's the bottom support I'm having troubles removing!

I'm having extreme trouble separating the face of the watch from it's supports. Every time I try the fave ends up breaking along a layer line farther up the model. I've tried cutting it, I've tried breaking it, I've tried scoring it with an X-acto knife first, but I just can't get it to break free. I'm using Colorfabb N-GEN, any suggestions?

I recall finding it easiest to remove those rear supports by laying the face, face down on a table and bending the supports from side to side to break them away. And clean up was same, face down and run a sharp blade to remove any left over material. The base corner supports I snipped off with nails scissors or similar, then a clean up to get a nice disc edge.
But I left the rear supports on until I had painted and sanded smooth the face - they gave something to hold onto whilst I worked on the front.

You may also want to check that you're getting good layer adhesion, the face piece is a thin part.

Good luck!

What size nozzle was used for this?

Hi there, I was wondering if it's possible to scale this down to the size of an actual watch?

Never thought to do that, but in theory it may be??
I'm sure some of the geometry will be too fine for standard FDM printers though.

But if you want a real size version try my design here:

Good luck!

Divers Watch v2 Fully jointed with working bezel

As a watch collector, I think this is an absolutely fantastic piece of craftsmanship and undoubted skill.
I think my printer is up to the task but I am not sure that I am yet, I am not quite a novice but I still have an awful lot to learn.
Who knows one day I may get up to you level and take on this mammoth task.
I would really love to.
I take my hat off to you sir.!

Hi RogueBear,

Really appreciate the comments!
Agree, this is a challenge for both printer and maker but as you see, surprisingly, as few have been made!

But having said that, apart from the face construction, the rest is fairly straightforward - give it a go!

Happy to lend my experience if you need any help.



Hi, I will get around to it at some point, you have really given me something to aim for. When I get a bit more experience /I will definitely give it a go!

Thanks for the offer of help, I have a feeling I may need it.

Can this be printed at smaller size to fit the bed?

In theory it can be printed at any size you like but the problem areas will be getting a Quartz movement to fit inside a reduced sized watch and getting an acrylic disc to the correct size.

What size is you build area - which parts don't fit?

Our build area is 115 diameter (delta printer) by 127mm height. Will we have problems with any pars? Regarding the acrylic disc, that's not a problem I think -- it's for the transparent cover, right? Anything else? Will it work for us? fingers crossed

So the only other challenge will be to find a battery operated movement that fits into the watch.
With a bit of fine tuning it should be possible to scale all parts down to your build area limitations?

Very interested to see how it turns out - please keep me posted


I love this thing!
However, I've had some complications. My slicer semes to mess up some of the models because it sais "3d verify has determined that your stl file is bad". This causes some parts of some of the models to just be left out when slicing. I'm using CubePro. Does anyone else have the same problem?

Hi severus,

Sorry to hear you're having problems.
Let me know which parts are causing issues and i'll check files


On "Hands.stl" the part that fixes the second hand to the movement disappears. (it stops printing when the height of the other hands are reached.)
On "back_thread_1_v2.stl" it only prints the thread itself, but not the ring surrounding the threads keeping it all together.
On "dial_hours_outer.stl" the small lip that goes around the edge disappears.
On "face_dial_flat_mb.stl" it just leaves out the writing that said "certified 3D printed"

Same problem occurs whit 70um layers and 200um layers. I´m using CubePro as slicer and a CubePro Trio printer.

Thanks in advance

I'm guessing that your slicer is having issues slicing/recognising thin 'walls'?
All the parts you mentioned that are missing in slicer have wall section/detail thicknesses of 0.5mm or there about - for some reason your slicer isn't 'seeing' them?. Its not the layer height settings that will solve your issue, its the nozzle size, shells/walls you are specifying that will effect how you slicer deals with thin wall structure. I've never used CubePro slicer, so i can't help with that i'm afraid. But I've checked the files you mentioned in Cura, MakerWare and S3D and all slicers preview/slice the thin walls okay.

What size nozzle are you specifying in the slicer settings? 0.4mm yes?
Also how many shells/walls are you specifying? 2 yes?

As far as I've seen, there is no setting for nozzle size and walls.
I'll try some other slicers and hopefully it will work.
Thank you so much for your help.

Other than that, most parts prints perfectly. we´ll have a complete piece pretty soon!

Good luck.

Looking forward to seeing your version!


amazing! thanks for share it

This is one of the first large build items I first tried 2 years ago when I first started printering, and I still have not successfully printed this watch! With that being said though, could you produce the items without the ready-made support? I'd like to try this using either slicer's support, or some blender stuff. The holes near the main clasp mounting came out horrific and I'd like to try a couple other ideas for a better print. I look forward to finally completing this amazing item!

Hi again,

Just remembered - i did create a additional files without supports and uploaded already.
Checkout the 'Thing Files'


Hi ShaggysGTI,
Will do, i'll add new files without supports as you suggest - good idea.
I've actually recently started using S3D slicer and that has great support options - better than my versions!
Also, which parts are you having issues with - just the main clasp or others?
Happy to adapt parts if needed. And just as a fyi - make sure you get a 'short shaft' clock movement. That is another area that may cause issues - if the shaft is too long, the hands won't fit under that glass. There is a work round for that, just scale the height of the 'inner ring' to give you extra depth if needed.
Thanks for the comments and making - keep me posted and good luck!

Does anyone have a US source for the 100mm clear acrylic disk needed for this project?

Wow ! Thanks for you prompt response !

This is a very nice project and I'm trying to print 150% and at 0.1 mm

I'm going to try V3 at 0.2mm That should be sufficient. I got suspiscious when I saw my printer «print nothing». I then opened it up in Autodesk Inventor to realise that some parts of the links where not quite on the sme level. You really have to look close !

If I may make a suggestion to you, you maybe tempted to use Inventor as a main program to create such objects. You can get a free licence for student and since it,s really a pro software, you can focus on dimensions and fitment and there is a .stl file output option tha can optimize poly count.

Thanks again for your super fast response !

NOTE: Just downloaded the file. Right off the bat, it looks a lot better...On the way to the printer !

Some object are not layed totally flat; the inner links V2 are not. I haven't checked all the parts but from what I can see, some of them have too many polygons and need to be simplified.

My 2 cents !

Hi altamiradora,

Thanks for the heads-up! You were quite correct - i have replaced 'Bracelet inner v2' with a v3 version. Strangely, it only seems to be a problem if that part is sliced at 0.1mm or higher, at 0.2 (or above) both Cura and Makerware sliced okay and first layer was fine. Are you slicing at 0.1mm? - i wouldn't print so fine for those parts.

And also can appreciate your observation that some of the parts may have a higher than needed poly count. Unfortunately, my particular 3D modelling software hasn't an easy poly count reduction work flow, but having said that i haven't had any problems slicing or printing any of the parts - are you having issues with any part in particular?

Thanks for the comments and please keep me posted


Hi WrangerMan,

Sorry to hear you're having issues.
The air printing is a software/hardware issue i think, however, the file: 'Clasp_hinge_clasp' does seem to have been corrupted (the latch clasp version looks okay?) - not sure whats going on there - i'll investigate and re upload a new version shortly.

I downloaded the clasp hinge clasp and re sliced it and it comes up all good so i might re-print it if I can't clean up the other one that i already printed.

It's still those three pieces that keep stuffing up that i'm not sure about, I might re-downlaod them and try again as I did download the original .stl files ages ago, and then I might try slicer3d as it seems quite a few people use that to great effect.

I'm having issues with several pieces; outerback, back, inner ring and small clasp.
All pieces keep failing when I print them, printer will just start printing out air, I've tried different slice settings and different filaments with no success.

Also clasp-hinge-latch seems to have an error in its .stl file that even running it through netfabb couldn't fix.

Can anyone help?

hi Francfalco - any chance you could provide the diameters of the larger components?

Hi dr_m_a_dman,

Which components are you referring to?

the bezel and supporting structure - mainly the widest components of the print

Okay - the Bezel (i think) is the largest single piece - 133mm diameter.

Might be easier for you to drop each .stl into your slicer and check dimensions there?

fancofalco: Where shall i put the 'sacrifical' block that is printed with the hands ? :)

You sacrifice it! - not used in model

That block is only needed to allow the nozzle to move away from the shaft to allow it to cool so the shaft prints correctly - if it wasn't there the nozzle would be too concentrated on the shaft and print quality will suffer - well it did on my printer anyway.

if you can, remove that block and see how well the shaft part of the second hand prints...

aha :) btw: the quartz clock movement unit i bought had a too long shaft ( http://www.clockparts.co.uk/sweep-clock-movements-repair-packs.htm ) I ordered the short spindle but still it hits the perspex glass. It's really no big deal, but i'm looking like crazy to find a new one. I even called Maplin. But they where not interested shipping it overseas. I think the main problem is the nut. On the picture from maplin and your picture, it is some kinda thin fixed nut. But on the one i bought there is a standard nut. Even if i put the nut on so it only takes one thread, it is still a littlebit to high for the perspex.

francfalco: Can you please uploade the Main_clasp without the support :) ? That would have made my day! :) Since i use Simplify3d, and the support on that program is just a touch and all the support are loose.

New main clasp (no supports) file added.

Thanks dude :)

After a few attempts at printing the main clasp (it was always falling over - I had to strap it with some tape) I finally now have a rather good clasp. The small support material comes off very easy, but I'm not too sure how to remove the large support stuff without breaking the clasp. I tried to use a knife, but I would have to apply to much force. Perhaps a heated knife? Any suggestions?

Hi nmeulemans,

Yep, the main support is a solid one and does need a sharp scalpel and firm but gentle hand to slice the supports off and not crack the thin top of the clasp!.

I laid the clasp on its side and located the line between support and clasp, then carefully 'rocked' my scalpel blade into the top of the support just where it butts unto the clasp. Slowly but firmly, is the key to separating those 2 parts.

I should look at that support area and see if i can make it more 'user friendly'.

Good luck


In the meantime I decided to use a heated knife anyway. It works very well, but make sure it's hot enough as you want to cut through in one go otherwise the knife get's stuck to the material. This is what happened for me on one side, which is now slightly damaged but still OK.

By the way, francfalco, this is really a great model. Once printed and assembled, I'd like to use it at a local 3D exhibition, but only if you agree. Of course I will mention you as the designer !!

Yep, heated cutters do work, and as you say, really hot!

Of course you can display your printed version of my design at any event you like! - obviously, any commercial interest (who knows?) will need to be discussed with me first and a design credit will be fine.

Would love to see pictures when and if that all happens please.

Keep me posted


Hi francfalco. First kudos for great design. This is on the list of my next print. I'm trying to locate all the parts that's needed. I bought the 3x100mm acrylics but i can't find the Quartz clock movement anywhere who ships to Norway. I tried Ebay, but i don't know which to choose. Can you help me out :) ?

Hi Muldal,

Glad you like the design - thanks!
Getting the movement should be the easy bit! Google 'Continuous Sweep Mini Quartz Clock Movement' there's lots on the web. I found a UK supplier, but there must be some in Norway? Also specify a 'short spindle length' for the movement - otherwise when it all goes together the second hand may touch the 'glass' face - ask me how i know...

Good luck


Thank you for your reply. I'm pritty stupid when it comes to watches. I have also not started printing any of the parts, so i'm not sure what mechanism who will fit, and what will not.

Does this seem good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clock-Mechanism-Quartz-Quiet-Movement-Sweep-Technology-Full-Repair-Kit-with-Hand-/281478338692?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item41896a9884

I think all 'mini quartz clock movements are roughly the same size - you may need to cut off the 'hanger'.
So the important criteria are:

  1. Short shaft - the shaft only has to go through a 1.5mm thick clock face (shorter the better) - the second hand obviously must not touch the underside glass face.
  2. Continuous sweep - so it behaves like an 'expensive' time piece!

I would give the supplier a call a check spec just to be safe.


I'm sorry to ask. But can you please spesify a link that sells the mini quartz that you recommand to use? :) There are hundreds on ebay. But i'm not in to watches and i don't want to buy the wrong movement unit. If you can recommand one i would have been the happiest man on earth, haha :)

Hi Muldal,

No problem, although i only have a recommended supplier from UK:

And make sure you get a 'short spindle' version

Thank you francfalco :) I ordered one from that page with short spindle lenght :)

Comments deleted.

I have been working on printing this project ' had a problem on the main body the file would not open up ' but when you split up the file into 2 parts it opened up correctly' now I have a problem with the Bezel number face .stl file ' it will not open up either
Don't seem to have a problem with the other files' do you have any suggestions I have tried multiple times to download the file but again it will not open up in makerbot software
Do you have any ideas how to make this work thanks

Hi Spacemen63,

That's strange, not sure what your problem could be?
I've just downloaded the file in question - downloads okay and loads into Makerware and slices fine.
Also opens correctly in my 3d software.
Have you access to any 3d software to open the download file and re-save as an .stl? If not try Google Sketchup should do it.
Or run the file through Netfabb https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net to see if it that clears any issues.
But as i say, from my side the file is okay?

Good luck


Thank you for the chalenging upload. I am finding this as one of my most challeging projects yet, but am wel on my way to completion. I have one challenge that I haven't been able to solve yet. The outer links file is to long for my opensource constructed printer bed (Michigan Tech's Open Source Delta printer http://www.appropedia.org/Delta_Build_Overview:MOST). Is there any cahnce you can post an outer links file that moves the links so it doesn't exceed 240mm in length?

I can't wait to get my assembly completed! I willl post pictures as soon as I am complete.

Thank you!


Hi rkobman,

No problem, thanks for attempting my challenging piece!
I've added a v2 version of the inner and outer bracelet files (smaller build area configuration):
Bracelet_outer_links_v2.stl and

I'm looking forward to seeing what you create!




These will be perfect! I appreciate the quick reply to my post and request.

Best Regards,



These will be perfect! I appreciate the quick reply to my post and request.

Best Regards,


Another confusion was that the displayed extrusion path in the slicer looks OK and the actual path sent to the printer was not.
I had a go at modifying a file by shifting some vertices about in Blender to eliminate an overhang and the slicer showed that all was OK but the print showed no change.
It would seem the gcode is different to the displayed extruder path.
I have never experienced this with my CNC routers as I rely on what is diplayed to end up as what is machined.

I had the same problems as you 58webbing. Then I tried Simplify3D and that just works. A bit expensive but probably worth it.

I find Simplify3D anything but simple compared to Repetier and Cura which I like. I took the plunge with S3D as it was supposed to repair faulty STL files but crashed completely when I tried it. When you consider Cura is free and S3D is 100 pounds at the moment I think it is way over priced. Cura operated my ROBO3D with no adjustment needed and with S3D I am having to manually edit Gcode so that it zeros correctly again not simple. Perhaps this is why there is no try before you buy with S3D because I would have left it alone.
I hope you are having better luck with it than me.

It would unkind of me to say I am pleased that others are having issues printing some of these parts, suffice as to say I am pleased that it was not just me.
Having tried to make a start with 3D design and finding it very difficult, leaves me full of admiration for francfalco and his design prowess and then to share it with others.
As for the behaviour of different slicing programs it looks like an issue for greater minds than mine to find an answer.
My messing about has come up with the following,
1, ReplicatorG non starter, too slow
2, Cura can work its way through some manifold issues but not all
3, Slic3r seems OK however it is not my 1st choice and I cannot comment further
4, I bought Simplify3D a day or 2 back as it has good reports from other users. I tried the file repair feature on the original "main body" and the program crashed! Also I found it unintuitive and a pain to understand.
I have 2 printers, at least 3 slicing programs a desire to have a giant divers watch and lots of time on my hands, so, if my brain holds out I should be posting a picture or 2 sometime in the future.
Thank you to all concerned for your help and ecouragement.

Awesome! Simply stunning and very well documented.
Just started on this and having some issues with z-scarring on the bracelet outer rings. Tried Cura 14.2.1 and latest Slic3r so far but both give z-scarring. What did you slice the bracelet with?

Thanks for the comments - yep, z-scarring can be annoying!

I've found my MB Rep 2 via MW gave a good result - not much scarring.

Cura (all versions) on my UM 2 had trouble with scarring - i tried tweaks but nothing really eliminated it (hoping any experts out there may have solution?).

The best so far has been via S3D on my UM2 - you still get z scarring but S3D has a 'layer start point setting' which i set to 0.0.
Which on my UM2 is front lefthand edge (where the nozzle initiates a print). i then position the bracelet file on the bed so the backs of the links are facing the 0.0 co-ordinates. There is still a slight scarring but it only happens on a thin line down the back of the links (not seen in normal use) - works the best so far.


Did you try KS? It has a seem hiding option that might do the trick.
Anyone here have a Kisslicer config file for UM 2?

Thanks! I'll try to experiment with Cura a bit more first but very good to know that you found something that works.
If I somehow can find a way to eliminate the problem with Cura I'll report back here.

Printing slow helps. At 20mm/s the z-scarring is almost gone for me.

Hi all,

I'm really pleased there are various versions of my watch being created out there! and its also been a real learning curve for me how different slicer, printer configurations can cause issues with .stl files that print okay on my set-up.
I'm sorry some people are having challenges but i'm sure all can be resolved and i'm always happy to amend files based on any feedback that comes through via these comments - keep 'em coming!

Also regarding quartz movement - i recommend a 'continuous sweep' movement - mine was sourced in the UK but the owner of http://www.ablogtowatch.com
previously sent me this link when i was having problems locating a movement - this one is US based:


I am having a fun time printing this clock! I messed up a bit on my colors, the Silver ended up being a grey and the Gold isn't anywhere near as nice as Francfalco's above (I bought the Octave Gold), I'm still hoping I won't have to paint when done, we'll see :). BTW, has anyone sourced the quartz clock movement in the USA? If so, please post a link, it would be much appreciated. Post up your 'Make' files too, I'm interested how those printing are getting along. I will post mine hopefully soon, still in the process of printing and cleanup/finish work.

I can verify that the main body files (the earlier ones) do print with strange anomalies on the surface. I could actually see them when I viewed them in the UP/Afinia software (they appeared as black lines on the surface that I hadn't seen before so I was intrigued to look further), then loaded into MatterControl's slicer and saw the weirdness there as well. When I printed them on the Afinia, they came out with the ugly surface issues, but in Simplify3D/printed they were pretty much non-existent. hrmmmmm, no clue as to why, will try the new "Main Body" files next, thank you for separating and uploading 'francfalco'! :)

The new main body files printed OK with the same setup I had before which indicates problem solved. Thank you.


Keep me posted if you have any more issues.

Printing is coming along well, but, the clasp hinge latch has some strange properties. When slicing it sometimes slices ok, sometimes with a horizontal gap, and when it has sliced ok, printing results in a curve in a corner. I have printed 3 examples so far, all the same. Anyone else having this? This is something I cant (yet) fix!

Shame this comments feature hasn't a image upload section... i would like to see the anomaly you mention in clasp hinge latch file.

PM me with details and pictures if you wouldn't mind - i'm intrigued why certain slicer, printer combinations have problems, whilst others slice and print without problem?

Wow that was amazing, I have been thinking of 1/3 FS 1934 BSA V twin, I have most of the design sorted in my head for conventional modeling. The engine would lend itself to 3D printing, if only I knew how to do it.
Anyway we seem to be wandering off the divers watch thread, which if others join in could end up hijacking it all together.
I am having a look at Simplify3D as it has a file repair facility and am about to trawl through some forums to see if it is worth investing in.

Hi Franco,
Thank you for your interest in my problems. I have CNC routers and a CNC laser all of which have caused me to scratch my head in setting them up to my liking. Nothing as confusing as 3D printing though, so many more variables.
As a retired old fart with a limited ability to absorb new knowledge any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.
My long term goal is to design a vintage motorcycle with a 3D software design package so that I can add to the pool of excellent models such as your divers watch.

No problem, I'm looking forward to seeing another create my watch.

Regarding 3d printed motocycles - have you seen this?


Update on problems printing the Main bady.
With Repetier and Cura I still have the localised problems which I am sure is due to non manifold areas. I tried sending the file (in various forms) to Nettfab only to have them say they cant do anything!
Next I tried Repetier and Slic3r (which I have not configured to my liking yet) and the results were perfect.
I tried ReplicatorG and after an hour pulled the plug as it was too slow. Cura sliced in less than a minute and Slic3r about 4 minutes.
Conclusion, There is something with this file (non manifold) which confuses Cura and not Slic3r. With other models/projects I read of other people having slicing problems whereas I do not with a similar setup. Previously other files which have been highlighted as non manifold, Cura somehow manages perect results which led me to believe the warnings were not to be taken seriously. I now know differently.
I am begining to think perhaps the PC on which different incarnations of the slicing software are also a factor which is why different folk experience different results.
Until I solve this problem production on my divers watch has ground to a halt :(

Hi 58webbing,

Sorry you're having a painful time with this build!

Okay, it does sound like your have a problem with a combination of model geometry, PC platform (maybe) and slicer issues.
But the good news...As i and others have successfully printed the part, there is a solution!
Let me have a look at my original build file for that part and i'll see if i can optimise it - i'm sure i can simplify the geometry without compromising the form.

keep you posted


Beyond beautiful clock. Great job.

Hello there!, This is one amazing clock! I have always loved the Mariner style watches so making it a large clock really looks nice, this will make for a fun project. I am curious on one element, I decided to load a few items into a couple slicers and it appears that the .stl file with the two threaded items (back_thread.stl) has a part that doesn't quite touch the print surface. The piece that has the threads on the inside doesn't start to print until approximately line 3. I tried with S3D (Simplify) and Cura and it looks to be same issue in both slicers, is anyone else seeing this? Is it possible to split these two items to two different print jobs? I would like to print them one at a time if possible and am not finding an easy way to accomplish this. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again Franccfalco! Stunning work and awesome skills making such a beautiful project in Solidworks!

Hi Blown454,

Well spotted - sorry, my error!
I have spilt the two 'back threaded' rings as your suggestion.
You'll see two new Thing files in the list:




Awesome and thank you so much!! :) I just ordered some new Gold filament for this project as I haven't ever printed in gold before, it really adds to the beauty of your prints. I am going to thoroughly enjoy this project, thanks again for sharing your amazing skills with the world, I will definitely post up my work when I get finished. The skills in getting everything put together and finishing properly will be lots of fun :). Thanks again Francfalco!!

I can't open the Main Body file. everytime I do the makerbot software crashes. Anyone else have this problem or know how to work around it?

Hi Bringerofnachos,

Just tested opening, slicing and saving the downloaded file; 'Main_body.stl' file via:
and S3D 2.2.1
And all open, sliced and saved okay?
MW was the slowest out of the 3 slicers but it did complete the task - not sure what your problem could be?

Hope you get it worked out..

This will be my next project. Having a look at the assy instructions which are very good I cannot see any location pocket for the perspex "glass" to sit in. Are the instructions literal in as much as the glass is glued onto the front. I ask because my ability to handle glue without getting in a mess is not always guaranteed. A pocket would help with positioning.

No there isn't a shoulder or pocket to glue the 'glass' face into - but i am looking at adding one.

On my printed model the 'Bezel face number ring' sat slightly proud from the 'inner ring' and so gave me an edge to position the glass against. But yes, be careful with the glue, a thin bead round the top of the inner ring and gentle place the glass face on that.

I'm not happy with my design of that part - there will be a v2 of this project, or maybe a Re-mix will come along?

I can't wait to make one of these for my father! What a challenge, too! I love how you have items oriented for best print resolution. I need to now order specific colors...

Patience Grasshopper.... Patience...

Looks like somebody has a lot of time on their hands! :)

Corny jokes aside, that is a beautiful work of art!

This part screams "Make a CMS for stl assemblies!"

Nicely done, great attention to detail and breaking it into so many separate pieces is great.

What is the rated water resistance for this?? Is it ISO 6425 standard? JK great job!

Does it work as a watch ?

If you had a wrist big enough, it would be a perfect time piece!
Fully articulated bracelet and continuos sweep quartz movement.

Just dont wear it if swimming ;-)

This is one of the coolest things I've seen on Thingiverse.. Absolutly brilliant.

Stunning Print, sets a real benchmark for 2015

Wow awesome, I might have to give this a go. Just finished a 28 hour print, wish I would have done this one instead!

Awesome!... Great modelling. I think that our new office might suddenly need one of these ;-)

Thanks Faberdasher...

Made possible with your fab PLA!

Stunning design and build!

Comments deleted.

Hi falco

Great 3d print. Saw an article about the print on the watchville app on iPhone. I was wondering if you could share the face and the ring that supports the glass with the Rolex logos still on it


Hi Mcpdevelopment,

Sorry, but i can't release any Rolex branded files - i may get into all sorts of trouble from Rolex legal!

excellent work on the modeling...:)

Hi Falco, wow! Fantastic skills!
I found out about your amazing print from:
2nd pic from bottom, I am curious why the watch frame was orientated vertically & not horizontally flat down?
Thank you.

Hi ivanhoeeewu,

Thanks - glad you like.

The watch case was printed in that orientation to reduce the amount of support needed and that angle also means most of the curved surfaces have a smoother finish (not obvious layer 'steps') and also the horizontal z layering helps the surface look like brushed steel.

Hi Falco, thank you for sharing : )

I just thought of this. If I were to print Captain America shield, I would also orientate the shield (divided into a few sections), like the way you orientated the watch case, right?

I don't see a need to divide the shield into sections?
Either print complete horizontal to the bed - the higher resolution and you get less layers 'steps'. You will need some support under the shield.


Print vertically (as i did with the face on my large clock). you'll have to rig up some support as i did, but you'll get highest detail (along the z axis) without any 'steps'

Totally going to make this once I get my filament extruder!

Thanks - the design and development of the model was tricky and a quite complex process, and the instruction guideline document was a help for me to clarify the print and build stages. And i also really wanted to pass on the lessons and techniques i had learnt from this project so hopefully allow others to make their own version of the watch!

The instructions for this model are very well done. The details and modeling tips are superb.

Phenomenal. Now need some gold and silver filament....

Hi Cyclone,

I've PM'ed you.

Glad you like it...

I was hoping you'd release this baby.
Though I'd like to put that original logo back on there for my pimping belt.

Also great work printing the face up edge-wise for the details.