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Customizable Cable Tie

by jetty Mar 8, 2013
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PLA seems to have too little elastic deformation capability for direct use. If it must be used, you might want to pre-bend the tie to a circular shape while softening it up with i.e. a heat gun (I used the space heater keeping me warm). Bending a full 180 around a tight radius seems out of the question for PLA unless heated first.

Thought Id mention my remix of your great cable tie in case it got lost in the remixes.

Ive added a label to the customizer.
Please feel free to add it to yours and improve on it.
Could probably be better with an either screw hole or label.
I was too lazy to implement the multiple parts feature as it would be complicated by the size of the labels.
Maybe Ill update it someday and add it back myself.

Customizable cable tie with label

When it gets here, I want to print this using ninjaflex...

"There will come a day when the people will be able to produce their own cable ties, at the power of their own machinery; and in this day is when we are liberated from the manufacturing tyrants of this country"

-Thomas Jefferson

Grrr... I can't get this to print correctly. My last remaining problem right now is that the latch is getting fused with the rest of the head and doesn't work (or even move). It is fused enough that I can't just cut it free with a razor blade. I'm using a Rep2, RepG, 240-248C, suggested print settings, varied filament diameter from 1.76 to 1.81 mm (1.77 seems to be the optimal setting), and I am printing Cable_Tie1.stl. Oh, and I am printing on plywood covered in diluted wood glue-- seems to stick good. Ideas?

What material? Have you tuned deprime?

Taulman 618 Nylon. No, I haven't tuned deprime. Do I need to bite that bullet already?

It's important for ABS and PLA, but for Nylon it's imperative. Mainly cause Nylon dribbles more from the extruder. If it's not depriming correctly, then you'll get much more material in that location. Also, keep the temperature at 240C until you have it sorted, cos 248C will also cause more material to ooze out.

I went to 248C because at 245C I wasn't getting good adhesion between layers (it was cool in the room). Anyway, thanks for the deprime tip. Learning deprime was on my to-do list, just after upgrading to Sailfish.

i gotta upgrade so i can use nylon. i printed with abs and it worked, but just like in the description, it didn't handle any force. what a great idea to make printable zip-ties. thanks.

Siiiiiiick!!! Dat Replicator hanging from the tie!!!!

Also, did you print with those settings using MakerWare or RepG? Since it's jetty, I'm assuming RepG but just wanted to make sure :)

RepG, but those are pretty standard settings, i.e. 0.27mm layer height. Fill and shells should be easily tunable in Makerware, I'd expect it to work.

Thanks jetty! I have had mixed results with MakerWare's slicer and so have stuck with Wingcommander Thomas's 200 Micron profile for Rep G. I'll give this a go then on my Rep 2 and report back on how it works tomorrow!

Has anyone tried printing these using the 618 Nylon filament on a Rep 2? I am very anxious to try it out on my Rep 2, but would love to know if someone else has tried it already :)

that is a great idea!

Ha! Now, those home made Printrbots that use a rat's nest of wires and cable ties can increase the 3d printed parts count!

Nice! Its always encouraging to see people designing things that can actually be useful. Its always frustrating to make a trip to the hardware store when you realize you're short a zip tie or two.

I had read that nylon really doesn't do well on the blue masking tape and have been holding off on using mine until I get around to ordering a Garolite plate.

Do you think you get zero warping/lifting with nylon because the part is small in the z-direction or do you always use nylon with blue masking tape? Also, build plate at room temp or heated?

Nylon generally doesn't do too well on 3M Blue Tape, but for small parts it will work. This works on it primarily because the tape part is long and thin. The head of the tie will also stick at the default sizes. However if you customize it to a really wide head, then you'll need garolite or nylatron for the head (the tape part will still stick). You'll get 2 prints of out of the blue tape as it's actually the wax in the blue tape it sticks to. I put my blue tape directly on the Kapton, and used 55C for the HBP temp.

Great. Thanks for the heads up.
Also... thanks for sailfish! Just got around to upgrading the other day and its as good as everyone has been saying.

And obviously, you'll need to make sure your Z height is correctly tuned to stick.

is there any legal issue here? thought the cable tie design patent still in effect.

The basic cable tie was invented in the 1950's. The patents have long since expired.

>tbuser on 9:09 pm said:
>Is that Replicator hanging inside what I think it's hanging inside?

Looks like a jail :-), it's gym. More to the point, it's being held up by the cable ties in this thing. 3 cables ties, one around the replicator and 2 more in a chain, so it's the all weight is being held by a single cable tie (i.e. not shared between the 3)

Haha when I first saw it I almost thought it was some kind of giant Rostock frame

Is that Replicator hanging inside what I think it's hanging inside?

That's what I call a wild test! Awesome!!