An update to my previous open source temperature controller case. This design has reduced the size and includes a spot to mount a standard solid state relay. To ensure that the components, and especially the relay, don't overheat, there are ventilation grills on the top and bottom, and the SSR mounts to the side with a hole for a heatsink on the side of the case.
Front Case is the complete front panel and sides, with smaller grills.
I had trouble printing the grills, and wanted to try making a snap fit part, so I created:
Front Faceplate and Case Sides which snap fit together to form the front of the case, and make it easier to assemble. They have very tight tolerances, and are designed to be a permanent snap fit, but worked well in white PLA after a bit of filing on the lip of the case sides.
I have included the Autodesk Inventor files I used to create this design, as well as Blank Faceplate, which only has the hole for the PID controller, and Plug Only Faceplate which includes the hole for the power plug socket, but not the temperature probe to make it easy to attach whatever connectors you happen to have available.
1) Purchase a standard PID controller, SSR, and temperature probe of your choice. I used these: PID Controller, SSR, and Thermocouple (Amazon.ca).
You will also need a fused plug for the back, a socket for the front, and the plug for the temperature probe.
2) Print the parts, either case sides and front faceplate, or case front (you will need to rotate them, and I printed them w/o support), but DONT SNAP THE FRONT ONTO THE BODY if you print the faceplate, or you may never get it back off without breaking it. The front panel is designed to snap fit into the case very tightly, while the back panel screws in. You will need some compatible screws and/or bolts to assemble the system. (I just used what I happened to have handy) The SSR nut holder is designed to capture a nut for a 1" x 8-32 countersunk bolt, which then holds it onto the side of the case.
3)Install the PID controller and other parts and wire them up. I recommend using automotive crimp connectors with blade quick disconnects for easy assembly, but soldering is fine too. Make sure to match the wire gauge you use to the current rating of the device you will be controlling!
4) Snap the front panel onto the body and connect all of the wires, then screw the back panel on.
5) Plug it in and (cross your fingers) Enjoy!
I haven't added feet yet, but I may do so in the future. I would recommend printing some feet from ninjaflex or other rubber filament to prevent slipping.