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Combination Safe 00 (Cryptex)

by SavageRodent Dec 10, 2014
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After some problems deciphering your instructions, I finally managed to assemble the damn thing and ... it works! :) But, I wanted to ask you, are the combination rings meant to spin freely or should they have produced some kind of resistance while turning, because they ain't. May you can update the rings with some kind of "clicking" mechanism? Cheers!

The rings are supposed to be snug fitting but they should turn easily. Because the tolerances are small, less than perfect, prints may result in some parts rubbing.

I did do a remix with a ratchet / "clicking mechanism", but this just makes it easier to lighn up the the numbers and doesn't effect the tolerances.


Combination Safe 00 _ for the Visually Impaired

Is there any video of assembly?

Step 4 is unclear. I have aligned shaft, and locking tool, but I see no options to align locking tool with num pad.

The locking_tool is simply for installing the bottom_lock, it has nothing to do with the combination rings, which should have already have been set in step 2.

Really cool toy. I printed the 5-ring version, which I can now brute-force within 20 seconds. I'm dreaming of a new version with false gates to make it more difficult to crack.

Could you make another version with 4 rings for me please? 5 seems a little unnecessary if I am just making this as a gift for a lot of people and 4 would cut down on material. I have attempted to edit this in tinkercad, but my measurements aren't exact enough. I'm pretty sure all that needs to be changed is the inner shaft and lid, because the 5 ring locking tool will work and I only need to print 1 anyway. BTW Great design here, I tried the 5 ring version and it works great.

I used the locking tool in step 4 to put the bottom lock in place and then took out the locking tool and tried putting on the lid but the lid isnt fitting in all the way

Are u saying the lid went on all the way before you installed the bottom_lock?

I installed the bottom_lock using the locking tool (I assume I did it correctly), took the locking tool out, and tried to put the lid on but it wouldn't go in all the way

how far down is the lid going before it stops? and is it stopping abruptly, like something is blocking it? or dose it just get tighter the farth down you push?

It goes down most of the way but theres still a small gap. It goes in pretty smoothly so it seems like theres something blocking it from closing all the way

from what you've described, it sounds most like one of the inner_rings is out of alinement. Is it possible one of the inner_rings went on upside-down? if so, the channels in the ring will never all line up with all the channels on the inner tube.
if you remove the lid and look down ALL THREE of the channels of the inner_tube it should be obvious if one of the inner_rings is blocking one or more of the channels.

If the above isn't the source of the problem. it might be worth removing the bottom lock and then trying the lid against, in order to identify if that is the problem.

let me know how u get on, i'm kind of intrigued to know the answer now :)

Hi there,

I bought three cryptex of this design from a maker on Etsy and have been struggling ever since. One of them broke almost immediately. The two others I put together, but unfortunately one of the children participating in our activity jammed the cryptex back together without lining it up Now it is jammed. :(

Any suggestions on fixing it? It feels stuck quite fast. Thanks!

I can't understand how your child has managed to do what you describe, unless they already have broken parts in the the process of forcing it.

In any case it sounds like your going to have to sacrifice the "Bottom" i.e. (cut it so it can be removed) once the bottom is off it should be easy to take the cryptex apart.

good luck


Essentially the child didn't line up the arrows to allow for it to be pushed in successfully, then forced it in. It was not broken prior to being used by that group.

However, I did manage to use a lever to wedge it back open and have fixed it this time.

I printed all the pieces and now I have a problem: I don't know how to put all the pieces together. I followed the instructions but at the end, I don't know what to do with the Looking Tool. Can you help me? Thanks (I arrive to step 3 and everything is correct but then, I'm lost in step 4)

1) Attached the bottom_lock to the locking_tool (as illustrated in instruction)
2) Insert the locking_tool into the cryptex and push down while turning it clockwise.
3) You should feel bottom_lock drop into position
4) continue to to turn clockwise till it wont go any farther, this will secure it in place.
5) pull out the locking_tool.

Printed with PLA, don't reccomend. It's a great design, but has 0 margin for error and ended up shattering multiple pieces of the print and wasting around 11 hours and 120g of filament. While trying to assemble multiple pieces shattered. Going to reprint with something with a bit more elasticity (PETG for instance), because the design is solid.

is there a bigger version of this? Like, Something big enough to fit something about the side of a small flashlight in?

No. But you could just scale everything up in the slicer. This dose mean you would also be scaling up the tolerances though. This person made one at 150% scale and didn't report any issue with parts being overly loos or anything though.


Combination Safe 00 (Cryptex)
by cpic21

I noticed there's a unlock symbol on the inner ring surface after it printed out. Am I correct in assuming that the lock symbol is supposed to be behind the unlock number?

Yes that's correct. The padlock symbol also has to be the right way up in order for the slots to line up with the teeth (see instructions).

thanks for sharing this design. I'm planning to give it a shot as a newbie. May I know if its recommended to simultaneously print several parts together (ie the rings) or its better to print 1 by 1? I was thinking that I might save some time by putting them in the same print job to save print time.

What i do, is put all the parts that i want in the same color, into the same gcode file (print job). But i tell the slicing software to print the parts one at a time. That way you reduce time spent messing around with the printer and the risk of loosing everything, should something go wrong halfway though.

hope that helps

don't forget to upload a photo ;-)

Hi SavageRodent,
I noticed that the .stl files are all rotated 90deg in my Flashprint software when i loaded them in, so I assume I have to rotate them the right way up (I mean, I don't think the inner tube is meant to be lying on the plate (the tube is lying on the platform instead of standing on the base)
By the way, does the clicker need any support? (Attached is what i think is the correct print orientation for the clicker)

The correct orientation of the parts should be obvious but if in doubt all the parts are supposed to be oriented as as they appear on Thingiverse.

clicker? I don't recognize the name or the image. What is this clicker thing?

Oh no, I was referring to the wrong schematics while responding to you. My bad!

I printed with SunLu PLA on a PrimaCreator P120 v3 and the little tabs shown in the picture below were the first to break. I glued them back together but the inner shaft doesn't want to fit entirely with the lid. I'm going to sand it mercilessly. Great design though, congrats.

I have the reverse problem of everyone else. I had the tightness problem at 50%, so I printed it at 100% because I assumed the scaling simply broke it. And now the rings are so loose I have to hold on to every single one of them to line them up. Did I accidentally scale something without realizing or has this problem happened to anyone else?

Hello, great design, my compliments! I have only a problem...I printed the piece Inner_Shaft several times, but the walls are broken ... what could be the problem?

how are they broken?

the print is very fragile, the walls are detached from the base

There's no reason the Inner_Shaft should be particularly problematic to print. I think the issue must be with the printer settings or the filoment your using. I can only suggest that u try experimenting with different settings and or filoments.

Comments deleted.

Took me some time to put that thing together, but then - WOW. Really good design, everything fits perfectly!

Thanks! This works perfectly. A bit easy to brute-force though. Pulling while turning the wheels give away a lot of info, but that's a teaching moment for the kids too :)

The instructions got VERY confusing toward the end, IMHO. Took me a long while to figure out how to put on the bottom (which is really the "left end"), use the locking tool, etc. It would be helpful to include more detail in slide #4 -- or to add a slide #5. Conceptually, most people don't understand how a cryptex works.

Justrick1701, I have the same problem. I'm lost in step 4. Could you help me? Thanks

You don`t need any instructions at all, becuase there is a file included that shows how everything belongs together.

Agreed! had to watch a video to fully understand the last steps. At first i thought i printed the wrong parts!

hello friend must be very bad editor or I do not fit the piezar you can tell me the correct assembly and printing pieces for 5 rings

All the information you need about what pieces to print and how to assemble them should be covered in the instructions.
If your making the 5 ring version you'll need to download the first 7 items from the Thing Files list then print the appropriate number of copies for each part.
I'm happy to answer any question about correct assembly but you'll have to be more specific about what your asking. Alternatively you might find the answer to your question in the comments below.

Great design! Just a strange problem, I'm not sure of what cause the problem! The lid_v2 doesn't fit the inner ring. What can I do?

did somebody not read the instructions? ;-)
your putting the rings on upside down.

Great design. Printed perfectly on Anycubic i3 mega.

Great idea, but the tolerances are really tight. Even after doing a bunch of sanding, the rings are too tight to turn

same here. I might be able to hammer the rings together, and onto shaft. but you'd need a pipe wrench to turn it.

I had the same problem. Did you come up with a solution?

It might be u just need to take a hard metal edge round the top inside edge of the outer_ring and the bottom outside edge of the inner_ring to create more of a chamfer to help the parts slide together.

If however the material your printing with is contracting / warping to much the only solution is to, ever so slightly, increase
the X and Y scale of the outer_rings and reprint them.
good luck

what is the locking tool for?

It is just a tool for inserting or removing the "bottom_lock". The locking tool is not part of the cryptex itself.
The bottom_lock stops the cryptex from falling apart when open.

can you make a safe that you can voice unlock like you put your phone on it and speak to the phone and then it opens

theoretically i suppose i could!

Simply amazing! Any change to get another version about 10 cm ? 7 rings or five rings, but most important is the lid atm is really hard use it with euros :D

Thanks kirner.
To be honest i probably wont get around to doing a 10 cm version, as i have to many other project in the pipeline also its more complicated to add rings than you might think, small variables like the tolerances start to accumulate causing components to fall out of alignment so end ups having to do a bunch of prototypes to be sure i'll work properly.
A solution to both your problems might be to simple scale up the model in the scicer before printing.

good luck with it

Neat build! I'm having an issue with the rings though. The last outer ring (closest to the top lid) is always sticky and hard to turn. I've switched the order of the rings and no matter which outer ring is there, it is always sticky. Does anyone know why, and what I can do to fix it? Thanks!

Just rub the touching faces with a little bar soap before assembly. I find this works amazingly well for PLA. Might also work for other plastics.

I'm having trouble fitting the inner ring onto the inner shaft. The shaft pieces just come together and I can't get it all the way down. I am also having trouble with the rings because sometimes it prints unevenly on the bottom part. The top is fine, but the bottom will curl off the build plate. I'm printing with abs and a brim. any suggestions?

For the inner ring fit, did you check to see if you have any burrs or ridges on the ID of the ring? If your printer isn't dialed in just right, sometimes you'll get a little burr around the bottom and/or top edge. If you've got the burrs, a little sanding or scraping with a sharp knife should get rid of them (I tend to scrape rather than whittle). I had to polish the ID of some of my inner rings to improve the fit - especially on the 5th ring, where it meets the base of the inner shaft (I also polished that inner shaft a bit right where it met the base)

As far as the bottom curling up, that's just straight bed adhesion issue. You can get more detailed advice on one of the 3D printing forums or facebook pages (This one is a pretty good one: https://www.facebook.com/groups/makerbot/ ). ABS tends to be very picky about having everything just right for good bed adhesion: you may need to play with your bed temperature or hot end temperature. Also, ABS is very sensitive to ambient temperatures and drafts. Do you have an enclosure around your printer? (If not, you can probably make a poor-man's enclosure out of a cardboard box, or even my stacking items around the print bed to help keep the ambient temperature consistent and block drafts. Remember to be careful about putting flammable stuff too close, and not to block the vents to your printer's electronics.)

which files go with which? there are a bunch of v1, v2, v3's, nothing seems to go together.

The "v" is just short for version and relates to files I've modified since they were first publishing, see MODIFICATION UPDATES.
So the v numbers don't have anything to do with corresponding parts.

hmm, this is pretty cool, but how long is it going to take? checks files looks at all of them

depends on setting of course but i thing its something like 7-8 hours to print

oh ok...but I actually meant that as a joke comment where the only file I print is the DO NOT PRINT file. But thanks for the info anyways, I might actually print this.

would it be easy to make a 10, 15, 20, etc. digit version of this?

In theory it should be easy. But in practice i had to make a bunch of tweaks to get things just right when I've increased the length.

Can i scale it up directly in Simplify3D without problems?
I want to cramp this inside:
Do you think this will be possible?

Lottery Ticket Puzzle Gift Box (Updated Xmas 2018)
by RevK

When I printed the 5-ring version in actual size, things were a bit tight, but a bit of sanding and filing here and there got things to fit. When I printed the 7-ring scaled up to 1.5X things were a little looser. I still had to tweak the bottom and the bottom lock a bit to get them to go together, and the inner and outer ring fit was a bit loose (the rings would have worked, but I snugged things up a bit by just bumping up my flow rate 1.5% - probably not the best way to fix it, but it worked.) The 7 ring 1.5X all went together fairly well. The rings spin much easier than on the actual size print I made, but still very usable.

The sort answer is, I don't know, as I haven't printed any scaled up versions myself. I would imagine it would be fine, just a little looser fitting because you would be scaling up the tolerances. Even that could be compensated for by tweaking the Z axis scale for some components and not others, But finding the optimal Z scale would just be a case of trial and error.

Vexelius printed a 200% scale version and didn't report any problems.

good luck with it

Combination Safe 00 (Cryptex)

Which software did you use to design the files, because I am using Inventor 2018 and am having a bit of trouble making similar parts... The locks are beautiful and I have liked them so much that I have made a total of 8 in my spare time, but I am also ready for a little variation and development. If you have any suggestions or files, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!

thanks, i'm glad u like the design. i made it using solidworks

Thanks for the tip! You can now see the models that I made, as I have just posted them under the "I made one" tab. Thanks a lot!

200th comment right here!

Thank you for the design. It took 3 days to carve and sand all the right pieces to make it work, I think my Mono Price mini select needs calibrating. Worth it in the end. Very much excellent part and design. mucho Graci https://www.thingiverse.com/make:391051

Combination Safe 00 (Cryptex)

Thanks Squidsinspace. sorry to hear you had such problems getting the parts to fit together. I notice the surface of your print looks a little lumpy. Could it be the setting rather than a calibration issue? what speed did u print at?

On Cura it says 50 mm/s

humm that's not particularly fast. So that's probably not the issue as i first thought. Might be worth printing something at 30 mm/s just to copier though.

Very good model and fit but could you chamfer the number of tire edges? (And lid part etc..)
I chamfer them before print..

I tried to print this on my Anet A8, but the angled sides (where the printer has to move 2 axis) of the outer rings came out curvy instead of straight, so it doesn`t fit together. Does somebody know how to fix this issue?

Comments deleted.

I have made an stl file with all the parts needed to make the one with 5 rings
reply if it works!


Excellent.! made two . One in original size and one at 130%. Both came out PERFECT , no sanding, no adjustements, nothing!
At the beggining I tried to set up the combination without looking at the exploded design , and got a stuck cryptex. Took me hours to unstuck. After that, carefully looking at the exploded assembly view, got it working perfectly. I guess I should have been more careful initially. Thanks

I've tried to create a cnc machineable cryptex for a while now, but now that I have a 3d printer I'll have to try this!

This is an amazing kit. Printed perfectly, first time, on my monoprice mini select.

Awesome! I am about to print one on my mini select with new PETG plastic :)

Comments deleted.

Hey, so for some reason the Bottom part is trying to print above where it's supposed to be, does anybody have any idea of how to fix this? The z has been set properly.

i'm not clear if you're saying its printing in mid-air i.e. above the build plate or if the bottom part is being cropped?

It sounds like an issue with your slicer settings. id star by resetting your slicer settings to the default profile, in case u accidentally changed something. then if the preview looks fine, I'd try print it again.

Comments deleted.

Hello. I have printed this but I don't understand the steps after I push the lid down the inner shaft. Please help.

im happy help but your'ed need to be more specific in your description of the problem, however before you do that it's probably worth your while to go through some of the comments and see if I've already answered your question.

I've printed everything and followed the instructions till step 3 then I'm not sure exactly what to do. It would be helpful if you made a video of the assembly process.

Very nice work. Thanks for the share. Definitely one of the funnest things I've printed.

Have printed all the pieces and an agonizing over how to get this thing together. Stuck on the final steps. With so many questions could you come up with some instructions that are a bit clearer?

Edit: Think I have the assembly figured out, my biggest challenge is that the "holey" lid was printed at slightly too large of a diameter, so it is really tight when you slide it into the inner shaft -- didn't realized I had added the holey lid to my gcode, but it seems like it should not have made a difference. I am reprinting the lid at 99% scale without holes to see if it fits better. In retrospect, I would not have consciously changed 2 variables (holey v. non-holey, and 100% scale v 99% scale), but didn't realize there was a holey v. non-holey lid until I was already printing, so we'll see how it goes. The 1% scale reduction may fix the diameter issue but screw up how the inner rings lock into the teeth, we'll see. Anyhow, sorry for the tone of my first comment, thanks for sharing this fun design.

I didn't quite follow all of what you were saying but ill try to offer what support i can.
in my own experience tightness between the lid and inner_shaft is normally the result of visible imperfections on the print suface and should be possible to fix with a bit of sanding. If your not already doing so, pring at a nice leisurely speed say 30mm/s should reduce these imperfections.
If your using different filaments for the lid and inner_shaft its also possible they r contracting too differant amounts thus causing tighness.
I'll check the sauce files but the outer diameter of both lids should be the same. If u do find u have to rescale only do so on the X&Y axis to avoid "screw up how the inner rings lock into the teeth"
let me know how u get on. the feedback is helpful for when other people have problems.

Thanks for your response and for the design! I used a free software tool called MeshMixer to resize x & y axis of the inner portion of the lid component by 95%, leaving the external portion of the lid the same size, and it worked great! Not sure why the inner/outer combination rings print and fit just fine, but for some reason the lid was too tight. Thanks again!

I can't seem to put it together, I'm struggling with the locking tool inner shaft and the lid fitting together. Any tips??

That's odd I'm sure I replied to this yesterday. Thingiverse! :-/
Anyway... It's difficult to help without a bit more information really, although it sounds like u might be trying to incorporate Locking_tool into the cryptex itself? Just to clarify, the Locking_tool is not a component but a tool to insert and remove the Bottom_lock.

yes I was trying to use the locking tool then I understood the 3D model you sent.

I figured it out, but now I can't fit together the bottom + the bottom lock and the rest of the build. If you'd like pictures I can get them.

ok i found the picture.
Did u not read the instructions? The Bottom has to attach to the end of the Inner_shaft. Then it is secured in place by the Bottom_lock which installed from the open end of the Inner-shaft. Onec the Bottom_lock is secured in place u can remove the Locking_tool and put the lid on.

ohhhhhhhhhh got it now... Thanks

sure send a pic if u think it will help explain.

sweet got it! set pass to 00000 I made 7 digit but had to remake cuz couldn't get the inner ring off. So I made a 5 digit and um ye it got stuck I did 00000 and it won't come loose XD probably needs to be sanded? Also it was really hard to get the Lid into the Inner shaft.

Hey, love your design!

I liked it so much that I remixed a version to allow for 6 rings, hope you don't mind!


Combination Safe 00 - 6 ring remix
by EMk

Turned out great thanks for the model!!

any way do you think you can help me with putting it together?

Turned out great thanks for the model!!

Turned out great thanks for the model!!

Comments deleted.

I'm unclear what versions you consider to be the most up-to-date in the Files. Instinct says go by date, but the later dated files appear to be older versions by the way you've named them.

whenever I update a file I simply replace the old file with the new one, so the files are all equally up to date.
However some parts have alternative versions eg 7 Ring remix.
its all logged under MODIFICATION UPDATES.

That makes a lot of sense. I was reading the "R" as "Revision", and then pared with "v.0" as it not being a finished or tested version, like a beta or alpha file. This is generally how I see things written, so I never connected the dots. Apologies and thank you for clarification.

Very nice design. I printed 2 test pieces, 1 with PLA and 1 with ABS (20% infill). Both came out flawless and work as they should. I am now happily printing a few more with white and red PLA to give as Christmas presents (stocking stuffers). Thank you for sharing!

Clever. But not really secure right, to get into it, couldn't someone just tap it lightly with a hammer.

well yeah! what did u think i meant when i said: "....the kind of security that only comes form a pocket sized safe made of plastic."

Above all of this nice piece of art and engineering, I have to admire the designer's attitude for noting and answering all comments and problems with patience and care. Rock on @SavageRodent

BTW, I'm printing this lovely thing right now. I tried to print the whole plate all at once, but it looked very ugly because no load traveling caused ooze sticking to the bodies. I used 100% infill with 30 mm/s speed and 222° for PLA and no brim or raft.

This is a great design, though a little over-engineered in some places. The tolerances are really tight, too. I'd love to play with the source!

UPDATE: I think I may know what might be going on with prints that end up too tight. I'm thinking that the problem is that the gap between everybody's extruder and bed is different. So a printer that has a very small gap would "squish" the plastic, creating a wider part while a printer with a slightly larger gap would "squish" it less. Further evidence of my theory can be seen by similar differences in heights of the parts.

Therefore, I think it's important for designers to loosen the tolerances on complex gadgets like this to make up for the differences between printers. I don't think that a ~.1mm gap between parts would be excessive where a tight fit isn't absolutely necessary.

What your describing is "elephant foot", it was an issue with earlier versions, but all parts now have ether chamfered or filleted bottom edges to compensate. Elephant foot only affects the bottom layer anyway so it was always pretty easy to clean up.

I wouldn't disagree with what you say about increasing the tolerances on complex gadgets, but of course i can only say that now with the benefit of hindsight.

Did u mean .1mm? That would actually be extremely tight. I wouldn't use tolerances less than .2mm for a tight fitting component and at least .3mm for anything to be published.

I had no idea there was a name for it :-) But are you sure it would only affect the bottom layer? I would think that it would affect all subsequent layers because I had to do a lot of sanding. I printed the 7 ring version.

I had to sand the Inner Shaft (on the outside AND increase the 3 gaps running up the shaft), Lid (outside shaft and thin the out teeth), Inner Rings (both inside and out), Outer Rings (Inside), and Bottom Lock (to decrease the diameter). Also, the Inner Shaft broke when I tried to put the first ring on. This is why I think that the "Elephant Foot" continues on throughout the entire print. Mind you, these aren't complaints - it's all good fun for me :-)

The ~.1mm I was referring to was the tolerances for my print (I have nothing else to compare it to). I doubt that I sanded more than that from my print. But I'm beginning to think that maybe it's not possible to get it just right for everybody. Not only that, but I think I should re-calibrate the gaps because when I measured a 10x10x10mm cube, it came out anywhere from .1 to .4 mm larger.

Also, while I have your attention, I noticed something that you could simplify (if you felt like revisiting it). The joinery for the Locking Tool and top of the Bottom Lock don't need to be so complicated. I think you could get away with simple nubs on the Locking Tool and holes on the top of the Bottom Lock. The 2 protrusions from the Locking Tool broke when I applied twisting force to the Bottom Lock. I ended up putting 2 screws on the Locking Tool with the screw heads protruding from it and it worked fine.

Anyway, thanks for a cool gadget :-)

Printers over extrude on the first layer by design, this is to ensure good contact with the build plate. I've never come across anything to suggest it can case some sort of cascading problem throughout the entire print.

The problem your having with parts not fitting together could b caused by any number factors.
Doing the test cube was a good idea. that can at least point u in the right direction. The fact that the over scaling is inconsistent from side to side would concern me more than the mere fact that its over scaling at all. what were the dimension of the cube, side-side, front-back, top-bottom?

It wasn't as bad as I had remembered: 10.09H x 9.83 x 10.18 . After I calibrated it again it got worse! 10.07(h) x 10.20 x 10.25 LOL. So I will be experimenting with different gaps to see if it makes any difference.

Anyway, great gadget.. I have mine full of quarters and open/lock it all the time :-)

My extruder temperature was too high. I lowered it and got better results for my cube. I'll keep reducing until I get better results with acceptable layer adhesion. yay!

I'm glad to hear you'r making headway. It sounded to me like your printer was simply over extruding a little. If i were u i would set the nozzle temperature to whatever the filament manufacture recommends and then adjust the material flow setting instead. (I'm assuming u have this setting?)

IF I'm right about material flow rate being the actual problem, then compensating for it by changing the nozzle temperature could result in a bunch undesirable side effects.

Comments deleted.

The combination is whatever you set it to.

This is brilliant! I would love to see a 12 sided version with musical notes on it!
C, C#, D, D#, E, F, etc.
That way you could remember a favorite tune for your combination!

That would be pretty slick.

Turned out perfect! thank you for this design. Amazing.
flashforge creator pro
with raft
no support
15% fill

hi, i have tried to print this lockbox 2 times and everytime i do everything is too tight to fit together. can somone help me figure out the problem. i am printing on an imaginator 3D with 2 shells and 15% infill with PLA fillament. should i print it bigger or smaller or somthing? thanks all.

Deburring/sanding/smoothing can help. Scaling everything up in size can help, since this also scale up the clearance tolerances as well.

In the long run, the best thing you can do is make sure your printer is properly calibrated - neither over or under extruding, and the X, Y, and Z steps are set so that when you command the print head to move 1 mm in any direction, it actually moves 1 mm. The over/under extrusion part is something that commonly needs to be tweaked on 3D printers and there are a lot of variables that can affect it (sometimes even when switching form one type of filament to another). If it's a factory built printer, the X, Y, and Z steps generally come set from the factory and dont normally need to be adjusted - an error here is more likely to be a slipping belt or gear or an issue with your stepper motors

try a few pecentages bigger I'm having the same problem
and it works for me no

As Herowannabe says, scaling up will most likely solve the problem whatever the cause.
If u haven't already done so its probably worth trying sanding the parts you've already printed. In my experience it's normally small but visible imperfections in the print that cause parts to rub.
I've also found different colures of the same material varying in the amounts to witch thy contract. so it might be worth doing some experiments to check for this, if only for future reference.

As has been mentioned in other comments, printing it out at 125% or 150% scale and then sanding/filing the edges helps immensely.

Want to print this for an Etsy shop I am running. Let me know if you would be OK with that.

sure why not, i see someone else has already taken the liberty of doing that anyway.

I'll make sure to give credit. We dont need another Just3DPrint

How does one go about setting/changing the correct combination? Also, awesome design!

The instructions are right there in jpeg form.

I have tried printing this several times with my TAZ 5 w/ 0.5mm nozzle and it always comes out too tight to fit together. I cannot get the inner rings into the outer rings, i cannot get the inner rings over the inner shaft, i cannot get the lid and inner shaft to fit together, and i cannot get the bottom and bottom lock to fit together to save my life. Would up-scaling the print in CURA to say 2x the original size make any difference you think?

FYI i have printed several calibration cubes and they come out to +/- .05mm so I do not think that is the problem. The only thing I can think of is the larger nozzle size on my printer. Any help would be appreciated. Is there any chance you could design a version with a little more spacing for the parts so that people with large diameter nozzle printers could make this?

I do sympathies. The tolerances have been an issue since day one. ive already loosened parts a number times and spoken to people more in the know about hardware & software than myself, who tell me the nozzel size shouldn't have any impact on the diameter of the outer edge. So im still at a loss as to why some people, like yourself, experience such problems.

To be honest I'm rather loathed to tweak the entire design again. partly because it will make the cryptex loos and rattly for those not experiencing this problem and secondly because its a real hassle.
However i can suggest some possible reasons you r experiencing problems.

Possible cause:
1) dose the software know the nozzle size on the printer?
2) have the prints been cleaned of all print artifacts?
3) materials of the same stuff just in different colures can often contract to varying degrees. A bad combination could be especially problematic.
4) r u using the most up to date thing files?

Possible solutions:
1) as u mentioned, u could scale up the whole thing. some people have commented that it works much smoother at 125% scale.
2) make very small tweak to the X & Y scale of individual parts so they fit. im sure some people have done this but it seems a bit fiddly.

let me know how u get on

So i printed everyone at 1.5 times normal size and with just a little sanding on the inner rings and the nubs on the container it fit together fairly well. unsure why I could not get it to work smaller. probably my machine or nozzle or something. I am investigating further. But scaling it up does help if the parts are too tight to print on your machine.

Thanks for the prompt response! If it is a hassle to adjust the files then do not worry about it. I looked into the causes you suggested and everything from my end looks fine. I had tried the model back in December initially and saw you put some updated files up a few weeks ago and re-downloaded and used those but still the same problem.

I am hesitant to adjust the scale of the parts if everyone else is printing and it fits together with minimal sanding/effort.

I am currently printing a few parts at 1.5x scale just to see if that makes any difference. I will post again and let you know if I had any success.

Have you calibrated the e-steps on your Taz5? If you are over-extruding, that can make parts come out oversize. A quick check of this would be to temporarily set your flow rate to 95%. If that helps, you were probably over-extruding. (NOTE: I'm not saying 95% is the magic number to fix things, but it's enough of a change to see if that makes a difference when you assemble.)

Also: if you are following the Aleph Objects/Lulzbot calibration workflow when calibrating your e-steps, try slowing your extrusion speed from 100mm/min to 40mm/min (40 is closer to a typical filament feed rate when actually printing, and will result in a more accurate e-steps number).

First, Awesome design. Mine printed perfect. Ill upload a make thing sometime. Great design.
Second, I dont know how you put up with some of the comments/requests/ criticism here LOL. Kudos to your patience.
If I ever have a design that warrants 5000 likes Im gonna talk you into handling the masses HAHA
Love the design. Keep up the good work.

I hope my comments were not taken as complaints: Just the opposite. I love this design- it's one of my favorite things on Thingiverse, and I merely wanted to give constructive advice and suggestions based on my experience with the design. That and I was very confused as to why I was still having problems with parts that SavageRodent said he fixed (now I know that thingiverse served me up outdated files for some reason).

Seriously, Thanks SavageRodent! You rock!

Any issues with scaling this up uniformly?

Not that i'm aware of. It may feel a little looser fitting as u will be scaling up the tolerances also.

I scaled everything up to 125% and it worked great! Far better than at 100% scale actually.

I'm not supersized to hear that. Theoretically the 1:1 scale version should work perfectly strait off the build plate. In practice though, more often than not, it needs a bit of a clean up to remove print artifacts that bridge the gap of the small tolerances between parts.

Hi, I have had this made for a while now, and i have to say, GREAT JOB!!! it printed perfectly first time!

My only problem with this is it does not fit american paper money... I rolled the dollars up and put them inside, but it just is not long enough for it to close correctly

I think this could be an easy fix by just adding another 2 rings and making it longer, but i can design well enough to do that,
Is there any way you can fix that?

A seven ring version as requested: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1412316

I'll be expecting a nice photo of it in the Made tab :)

Combination Safe 00 Seven Ring Remix

Thanks LaxMacQ.
Yeah i guess I could add some different height options, but i cant say when. I do make a point of testing out stuff before uploading it. I'll message you if or more likely when i do.

Alternatively you could change the scale of the print, even if only along the Z axis. Obviously just make sure u change ALL the parts by the same ratio. I should state i haven't experimented with changing the scale ratio myself but it should work fine.... in theory :)

Put me down as one firmly in the camp of wanting a combo-safe with 6 rings, rather than just the 5. I've tried modifying the design to accommodate 6 (the only parts that need to be changed are the Inner Shaft and the Lid), but my computer and software are not quite up to snuff for altering models that complicated. :(

There is a reason why its for 5 and 7 rings. It should be hard to enter dates (like someone’s birthday) as combination. Lets say your son is born at 27. 04. 2002 , 6 rings would allow you to use 2704 or 0402 as combinations.

i dont know if ill ever do a 6 ring version but i did the 7, if that's any use to u.

....and the locking tool :)

Actually the locking tool is already long enough that it would still work with 6 rings. :)

However that reminds me of something else I wanted to mention. Is it just me or is the "bottom lock" piece backwards? As it is right now, you have the channels on the bottomside that hold it in place and the channels on the topside that allow the Locking Tool to hook into it, but they are oriented in such a way that when you -tighten- the bottom lock you are also hooking the Locking tool into its channels, and when you -loosen- the lock it releases the Locking tool from the channels. Should that be the opposite? I don't need the Locking tool to be hooked in when I'm tightening the lock, only when I'm loosening the lock to take it out.

Frequently when I go to insert or remove the Bottom Lock I really have to fiddle with it so that it locks in place without the Tool staying hooked in to the channels as well as getting the Tool to stay hooked in when I'm trying to remove the Bottom Lock.

Anyone else noticed this?

Sigh! I changed the design of the bottom-lock 4 months ago. its all in the Thing Details. It even says when the Thing Files were last updated on the opening image.

Okay weird. I downloaded all the files for this just a couple weeks ago (I didn't even own a 3d printer until recently), so I assumed they would be the most up to date files, but looking at them now I see that it gave me Bottom_lock_v1, not v2. It looks like the Lid and the Locking Tool were not up to date either, though everything else was. Very odd. So blame Thingiverse I guess. :\

I also tried printing it and everything was too tight. Ended up breaking the dang thing trying to get it apart.

How hard would it be to simply create a version with looser fittings? The main thing I think that would need to be changed is the teeth on the "lid" as well as the locking mechanism on the "bottom lock" so that they had a little more play.

Also, I would love to see a version of this with 6 rings instead of 5, as well as a customizable version of the "outer ring" so that you could use whatever numbers/letters/symbols you wanted on each ring.

Agreed. Unequivocally the teeth on the lid are too pronounced. They require 0.5mm to be taken off them.

Also, the three notches on the inner rings that slide over the three lines of teeth are slightly misaligned. Not by much though -- one of the rows of teeth needs to be rotated further round by 1mm.

I rather suspect that while being designed the three parallel sets of teeth were spaced round the core of the lid using a mix of 'distance between object faces', and 'distance between centre of object'. This would account for the misalignment as it is ~half the thickness of the teeth.

Of course, you could solve the issue the other way round and move the notches in the inner ring...

I prototype my stuff quite thoroughly and I can only say my own test print, using the most up to date Thing Files, works perfectly.
For this reason I'm disinclined to tamper with the design. However ill help if i can.
1) I believe most problems stem from people using out of date Thing Files. So firstly, Are u using the most up to date thing files?
2) if your rings r not turning smoothly it my be that there r print artifacts on the teeth or the inside of the inner-ring that need cleaning up.
3) I don't understand this misalignment issue your having. I trust you do understand that the rows of teeth r not spaced at equal intervals around the circumference of the lid and thus there is only one correct position for the lid.
The only other thing i can think, is that u have one or more of the inner-rings is back to front.

I hope that's of some helps. let me know how u get on.

I'm sure that the tightness of the teeth is a result of different 3D printers. I'm using a XYZ DaVinci Jr. 1.0, and from what i've seen here and in comments on other designs, the DaVinci Jr. tends to print things a bit thicker than most other printers. It might also have something to do with ABS vs PLA filaments (the DaVinci Jr uses PLA).

Anyway, I sanded all my teeth down quite thoroughly and it works well enough now. Also, I did another print at 125% scale and it worked much better (though the teeth still needed some sanding).

Thanks for the design SavageRodent!

Comments deleted.

I am obviously being very thick, but surely once the lid is in place, the dials cannot be rotated to lock the lid in place. The lid will not allow the dials to be rotated. What am I missing as everyone else reported success (mostly)?

i've always understood visually stuff much better, so i'm not convinced a written explanation is going to help if u don't already get it, but here gos.
If you imagine the the safe in cross section cut from top to botton though the center. The profile of one of the teeth, on the lid, is the inverse of the profile of the inside of the inner ring. (like a screw head is the inverse of a screw bit) Therefor if the inner ring is correctly aligned with the teeth the two profiles have no points of overlap and thus can rotate freely past one anther because the inside profile remains constant even while in rotation. The ring cant move up or down of course, because this would mean the profiles would be overlapping i.e. occupy the same space, except where the slots are cut to allow the thing to open.
u know, u could have just printed it :)

Here's a little video I made on how to assemble since some people were asking for a little more instruction and I didn't see a video.


For those having problems I'd be really interested if you printed a calibration cube and measured it to see the results on the x, y and z axis's. I had zero issues with this print, it all fit together wonderfully. I even had a mix of .3 and .2 layer size pieces and cheapo PLA filament.

Good idea, i should have thought to suggest that myself. That said, i think most problems are largely with the object itself, because people are using out of date version of the object. What can u do! :(

Started to print this at .2mm resolution and when the inner and outer rings finished I tried to fit them together and they would not fit at all, Any advice?

i didn't think that had been an issue for ages. Are u using the most up to date stl files?

when I printed this, Everything was too tight, the 3 sided piece snapped in the middle and knothing fits together

could you please post an instructional video on how to assemble because I am having difficulty putting it together

Video instructions would help the best. i am trying to print one but cant figure it out with the lid and the bottom lock if you do this please post a link, thanks and you're awesome

how do you set the combo, when I put it together I cant open it

i cant tell if that was untended a joke or not?. Because it sounds like your saying you've locked yourself out.

You need to set it with the inner and outer rings

SavageRodent, This is probably one of the cooler things I've printed off here. I really like that you're trying to help people with printing problems to improve their prints. Kudos. I'm pretty new to 3D printing, and I'm finding Thingiverse a neat source of ideas of what is possible, and this is one of my favorites.

I've printed this once so far, using ABS on an Airwolf3D with a factory 0.5mm nozzle. Print speeds were 40mm/s, and 0.22mm layers. I did all the inner and outer rings at once, which gave some stringers. But these cleaned off really easy. It was a bit tight, but the ABS does tend to warp as it seems to cool unevenly. I improved the operation by taking an exacto knife edge and scraping off some of the outer ring edges. My lock ring was also a little warped, and that caused some tightness to by pusing out on the inner shell.

What software did you use to design?

All-in-all. This is very cool.

--Dan M.

thanks for the feedback Dan, its always helpful.
i designed it on Solidworks, which was probably a bit overkill :)

I have posted a print ready version of this on tinkercad and I wrote in that you designed it and the link to your page

I have tried to print this at least 4 times, and have failed each time... usually due to stiffness and too tight of tolerances. I just rebuilt my printer, hopefully this time will be different!

hi ImpulsiveJames. sorry to hear your having problems. i trust u r using the most update stl files and have checked your pints for any artifacts / imperfections that might be the cause of the stiffness?

Im trying to find out if there is a common cause for those having difficulties.
can i ask what printer, slicing software and nozzle size u r using?

I made it but the pieces fit to close together so it doesn't work

hi Natbro11. sorry to hear your having problems. i trust u r using the most update stl files and have checked your pints for any artifacts / imperfections that might be the cause of the stiffness?

Im trying to find out if there is a common cause for those having difficulties.
can i ask what printer, slicing software and nozzle size u r using?

oh, you should also make a video on how to assemble
that would be so helpful :P

its not 100,000 possible combinations its 99999 possible combos just to correct ya on that cuase only 5 digit numbers :P

10^5 = 100,000 last time I checked. RozekPierozek got the one you most likely missed.

Its 100 000 posible combinations. Do you forget about "00000" combine :)

I have printed this fully, however it's very tight when the lid is in place, unable to turn the dials very well and removing the lid is almost impossible without a flat screwdriver. Would like to see another version with slightly thinner lid, 0.5mm should do it.

Comments deleted.

awesome model just printed three of them as x-mas gifts, found a little vaseline on the teeth of the lid helps the whole thing open andturn smoothly

I just want to make sure im doing one of the assembly points correct: The "bottom lock," and "inner shaft" are all supposed to fit inside the "bottom" once it is completely assembled correct? Was testing the fit of the bottom lock in the bottom piece and it leaves virtually no room for the inner shaft. also the little areas in the bottom lock for the nubs from the bottom seem way to small for it to rotate. I have a lulzbot taz5 and it seems that this will require an incredible amount of sanding to get it all to fit together. Any tips?

Yes the both the Inner-shaft and the bottom-lock should fit in the the Bottom.
If u downloaded the files before my most recent update, a few days ago, see below, you may find a tweak made to the Bottom "might" solve the issue your having. That said, i think the reason there is a problem at all is because your machine has a larger nozzle. 0.5mm i think? Rather than the 0.4mm on my Ultimaker.
Also check for any imperfection on the surface of the print. Even something small can make the difference between it being snug and being tight.

So I've been thinking about the design, and I've concluded that the Locking Tool slot in the Bottom Lock is the wrong way around. When you've locked the Bottom Lock in place, you then have to rotate the Locking Tool counterclockwise to undock it from the lock, but that same movement also unlocks the Bottom Lock part again. And the same happens when unlocking the Bottom Lock: you twist it counterclockwise, which means you will undock the Bottom Lock from the Locking Tool as well. With a tight fit, it's hard to get the Bottom Lock out of the assembly.

In other words, the exact opposite of what you'd want to happen, happens with the current layout of the Bottom Lock. Is there a reason why it's like this?

You got it wrong. After you lock it by turning clockwise, the lock tool can be pulled straight out. When you unlock, you turn counterclockwise the locking tool will come out with the lock together.

I'm not sure what to say to that. Have you printed it and tried it? Because it really doesn't work.

Of course, it worked fine. I did have to sand and trim some...

Then maybe the model has changed, because in my printed model it's really the wrong way around.

It has indeed changed. Its all there under Thing Details.

Ah, great. Thanks for clearing that up, good update!

I hate to be the grammar nazi here but:

"• 100,000 posable combinations. "

I notice this as I write programs, and something like this can ruin my day.
In this situation, this is possibly not the case - but thought I would try to help

grammar nazi would mean if i said:
I can't handle nothing!
that's grammar
spelling is this:
i can spel vary wail :)

ahem: word nazi here
that's spelling nazi not grammar nazi :)
get rekt lel

Spelling is a component of grammar.

If there really must be a an argument about the language on my comets page, then i guess I'd side with Techied on this one.
i don't spelling is a component of grammar .


Generative Grammar. a device, as a body of rules, whose output is all of the sentences that are permissible in a given language, while excluding all those that are not permissible.

"A given language"
If you intended to speak english - with correct grammar, then if the spelling was incorrect, you failed to adhere to "given language" and therefore your grammar is invalid.

However - if you intended to use your own version of english - then of course, the grammar is fine - if comparing to correct english grammar.

But.... my original intention was to point out a spelling mistake as a courtesy not an insult. It seems the usual response these days to interpret attempts at assistance as insult.

Relax dude, I didn't object to you pointing out an incorrect word and certainly didn't interpret it as an insult, indeed i did correct the error after u pointed it out.
I really was just taking issue with your definition of the word "spelling", which i still contend is not part of grammar but is a component of language in its own right, specif to the written word, unlike grammar which is equally relevant to both written and spoken language.

Isn't it great when smart people get together on a topic? :p

Spelling is a component of grammar.

Awesome! Your model has been featured as one of the Top 3D Printed Christmas / Holiday Models this year. Search "Top Free 3D Printed Christmas Gift 2015 Printing Ninja" to see. (sorry thingiverse bans url addresses)

I just made it and put in my code, but it wouldn't open back up. I have to day this thing is sturdy!! I think i rotated it when inserting. Going to try again as it had to be hacksawed.

That said. Great work, just user error when assembling.

Hi there, first of all this is an incredible work you've done.

Could you tell me what preferences you've print the Safe on the Picture? looks like a low layer high.

Thanks and keep doing such cool things.

Cheers from Germany

I think your right. If memory serves, i printed in 0.1mm layers.
That said, with hindsight, i dont think i'd bother with such a thin layer thickness. Given the nature of the object and the fact that most faces are ether horizontal or vertical, i don't think the object benefits so very much from the higher print quality.
However if u do want really nice print quality i suspect you'ed benefit as much if not more from a nice slow pint speed. say: 20mps @ 0.2mm layers or 30mps at 0.1mm layer.

hope that's helpful. have fun :)

This is incredible! I want to print it on a makerbot replicator 2X, are there any adjustments or preparations I should make?

i wont lie tnewc99, im not sufficiently familiar with the nuances of every 3D printer on the market to offer customized calibration advice :) But seriously, no i don't think u need to do anything special, no suport structures r required or anything. Just be aware if the nozzle is larger than 0.4 mm some of the tolerances might be a little tight and require some sanding.

First of all, great design! This is really cool!
Second, as with every 3D printable project that has multiple parts, these parts do not fit together.

The following is for the purpose of expressing my frustration with the current process of 3D printing. I have not been able to find a reasonable solution to this problem. Hopefully someone out there has encountered the same thing and come up with a solution (because I'm out of ideas):

  • After printing, things that are supposed to fit together do not fit together.
  • This is caused by the slicing software. It tells the center of the nozzle to follow the outside contour of the part and does not account for the width of the nozzle. This results in every outer contour of the part exceeding its boundary by half of the nozzle width. I know of no slicing software that accounts for this (and I've tried several). WTF? Seriously, how is this acceptable?
  • To account for this, the .stl file needs to be modified. However, .stl files cannot be modified in any CAD program that I know of (currently using Fusion 360). And I know of no CAD program that can convert an .stl file to a solid part that can then be modified.
  • Alright, so now I need the original CAD file (you know, the one that was made before it was exported as an .stl and posted to this site). However, those files are nowhere to be found on this site. I only ever see the .stl files.
  • I'm left with two ridiculously absurd options: Write my own slicing software from scratch to account for the damn nozzle width, or redesign the part from scratch in a CAD program...

I'm really out of ideas here. Someone out there has to have found a solution to this nonsense.

Please help!

Found a pretty good solution for this in Fusion 360:

  • Create base feature
  • Insert mesh
  • Choose .stl file
  • Select imported object and right click
  • Click "Mesh to BRep"
  • Finish base feature

Boom, there you go. As long as the .stl had less than 10,000 faces, you now have a solid part that can be modified like any other CAD part.

There is a plug-in for Autodesk's Inventor that allows the conversion of stl files to an ipt file; it's not great but better than nothing.

hi jlatham
if that's true about the slicing software, not taking the nozzle size into account, i'd agree that is a pretty bad oversight by the developers. What nozzle size r u using? i printed all my prototypes on an ultimaker2 with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

Two programs i know of, which u can edit stl files are 3dmax (which costs a future, IF u buy it) and blender (which is free) thy r both 3D modelling and animation packages and thus look intimidatingly complex. so on reflection your probably be better off looking around for some more basic free cad software, im sure some of them will allow u to edit stl.
However it seems to me that in many cases u probably don't need new software or original CAD file. u simply need to use the slicing software to change the scale on the X and Y axis.
Im guessing the issue you’ve had with the safe is that the outer ring won’t fit on the inner ring?
If so the solution should b simple.
Open the stl in the slicing software, select the scaling tool, lock the uniform scale then increase the size of the X or Y value by something like 0.2 - 0.6 mm then unlock the uniform scale and return the Z value to its original value. I would think this would solve your problem in this case. Failing that mybe just buy a smaller nozzle .
Hope that has been of some help.
Let me know how u get on.

Thanks for the reply. I was able to get it all to fit together with some good old-fashioned sandpaper. I'll post pics under the "Made" section.

My experience with Blender is that it's more of a freestyle type of modeling and sculpting software and not for accurate or precise parts that need dimensions and constraints. 3DS MAX by Autodesk looks to be the same kind of thing (though I haven't tried that one). But perhaps these would suffice for a simple change to the .stl file. Still, it's frustrating that there isn't a full CAD program meant for engineering applications that can modify .stl files... (By the way, I use Autodesk Fusion 360 for this purpose. It is BY FAR the best free CAD software I've used.)

I'll have to try the x/y axis scale trick next time. Thanks.

Nevertheless, there are many situations where a slight but precise modification needs to be made to a part found on Thingiverse. This is where the original design file would be extremely handy, or at least a CAD program that can edit the .stl. I'll report back if I ever figure this out, haha.

Thanks again.

Awesome design!
Ok, my 2 cents on modifying an stl.

Get meshlab!
Open stl with meshlab, and export stl to a different format.

I use sketchup! It's ok for basic stuff, and it's free.
So I export the stl to a dae format.
Then import the dae with sketchup.

It imports at 1000x the size, so scale the object, click the corner to scale, and type .001. Then zoom all, and right click object and scale definition.

Well that's how I do it anyway.
Hope it helps someone.


I don't use sketchup, so this approach didn't work for me. But thanks for the suggestion!

Beautiful design! I found the pieces fit really, really tight. My printer has a 0.5mm nozzle, and maybe a 0.35 works better. I was able to get the rings together, but it took some force, and they aren't coming apart. The inner shaft is pinched by the top ring and the bottom, so the lid can't be inserted. I think a little work with a Dremel will fix that, though.

I printed a couple pieces with PLA, and noticed some distortion. Maybe ABS or HIPS for everything.

thanks for the feedback rjdudley.
i'll look into tweaking tolerances between the rings. i cant think what would b causing that problems with the inner shaft though.

Waste of time, waste filament and waste money.

Well no one is forcing you to print it agudopalacios :)
If you are having technical problems, I’d be better able to assist if the content of your message was a bit more informative as to the nature of problem.

Printed on zortrax 3d printer, everything turned out perfectly. It was easy to assemble and works great. I'm using it as part of a two step geocache

Hey Savage Rodent.

Thats one really cool combination safe........
But I couldn't help noticing that in the picture you have Australian currency instead of United Kingdom currency seeing that its says on your profile that your from the UK


hi Connor

To answer your implied question, yes i did design the cryptex myself. The reason its Australian currency is because i had recently returned from holiday and some left over spending money was what i had at hand when i took the photos.
i hope that puts your suspicion too rest :)

Hi SavageRodent! I just printed some pieces of the money box. I couldn't get the inner ring inside the outer ring (they do not fit!) Do you have any suggestions ?

hi mica0307

It is intended to be a very snug fit. But if your really having problems i'd suggest u use a hard metal edge to scraper round the inner and outer edge where the two parts meet, thus create a larger chamfer to help them slide together more easily.

have u tried rotating the inner ring to see if it will fit at a different orientation?
If your printer is miscalibrated, its possible the components r coming out slightly stretched and will only fit one anther at a particular orientation. Probably worth testing.

If all else fails i suppose u could increase the X & Y scale of the print for the outer ring by somthing like 0.2%. This really shouldn't b necessary though.

how long does it take to make

well if u were to print all parts in a single session it could be done in around 8 hours.
top & bottom 0.8mm,
shell 0.8mm,
fill 20%,
print speed 60 mm/s,

In practice it will take a bit longer as u probably want more than one session in order to print in different colures and to space the parts out enough that thy can be printed one at a time.

With a another code please thank you

This is the greatest thing I have yet printed !

Feedback: The first ring is a bit loose and the last ring is stiff. (like other people said). I didn't find a use for the locking tool because I simply attached the "Bottom" to the "Inner Shaft" and it worked.

Will it work if I print it a scale of 1.5 ?

well in that case i hope you've printed a load of stuff and that wasn't just a backhanded complement ;)

ive just made an adjustment to the design that should fix the the stiff bottom ring, but i wont upload it till ive done a test print. ill make a not on Thing Info when i do upload the update, tomorrow probably.
i didnt really understand what u meant when u said you "attached the Bottom to the Inner Shaft" if you've simply pushed the
"Bottom Lock" in place with the lid, the tight tolerances should make it reasonably secure but not as secure as it would be if screwed in using the tool. Also the locking tools secondary function is to remove the bottom lock, so u can change the combination whenever u want.

printing at 1.5 should be fine, in fact i would expect a crisper look print the more u scale up. Maybe start by doing a test print of one of the combination rings, as the numbers r most difficult part for the printer to do well due to unsupported overhangs.

I say it is the greatest thing I have yet printed because I never printed things so complex with a lot of pieces to put together and a combination lock that really works.

I have uploaded a photo and explained how I lock it without the locking tool. Names between the quotation marks are the names the STL files have.

Magnificent design! Thanks!

May I ask you to do small adjustments? I think inner diameter of the lid part should be tiny bit smaller, so the walls will be thicker - on my printer this part is really fragile. And of course, the locking tool and bottom lock parts should be changed accordingly. Also, bigger tolerances could be great. Thanks a lot!

thanks monzon, always nice to b appreciate :)

i have made one or two tweaks to the design since i first uploaded it and am considering going to the enormous trouble of making an adjustment to the bottom tooth on the lid, as a number of people commented on the bottom ring being stiff.
However as your the only person to have the issue u describe, i probably wont tinker with it. also from your description, i did wonder if u actually meant the inner shaft rather than the lid? which seems pretty solid to me.

i'll bear your comments in mind on a variation, on this design, that im working on.

Yeah, the trouble with the lid was made by my slicer, fixed now. The inner shaft is the most fragile part, as you mentioned.
Bottom ring is stiff as well. IMHO you should increase the distance from the tooth to the base by 0.1mm and it should be fine.

I know my printer is no good to get tolerances right, but I had to use software compensation for it (shrink outside perimeters and enlarge holes by -0.1mm).

The gap between the of the lid and base isn't really an important dimension so ive shaved off a 1mm or more.
ill make a not on Thing Info when i do upload the update, tomorrow probably, after ive done test print.

Comments deleted.

awesome. I just made of of these. so awesome. is anyone else finding the last combination spinner is very stiff? how did you fix this.?

This is called a cryptex.

Neat design! I had to use a rotary tool (cheapo Dremel) to sand off some surfaces to make the digits rotate a bit more freely, but other than that it's really cool! I'm going to start rolling some $$ in them and giving them as birthday gifts.

Hi I am a 13 year old boy and I could install this together fine. my printer is very cheep and I also had to do some sanding to get it to fit. I don't understand how a 7th grade boy could assemble this but a few men/women cannot???

u and me both dnouri1, u and me both :)

Could you share a .step file?

Awesome thing. A bit tricky to assemble, but once you get the idea it's easy. Bottom cap and especially the bottom lock are hard to print, I needed to use sand paper and a drill for the hole to make both parts fit.

hi zargony
I'm surprised your having trouble with those parts. Iv'e print a load of prototypes with various other tweaks but had no problem with the tolerances on those components.

The only things i think of are:

1) Do u have your printer set to make support structure / scaffolding, which is clogging up overhangs?
Supports shouldn't be necessary.

2) Could the parts be getting warped by one or more of your printer settings needing to be adjusted? dose your printer have a heated build plate?

3) i assume u haven't re-orientated the modle to print upside down or anything like that?

Hey SavageRodent. I think all settings were ok (no supports, nothing warped, no rotation). The main problem was the bottom lock part which didn't fit out-of-the box into the bottom cap. I guess that's because I printed with PLA and overhangs dropped a bit and made the mechanism too tight. I printed a new bottom lock using ABS and it works great without any postprocessing.

i don't mean to be pedantic but if your saying parts of the print are "dropping" it sounds like warping as a result of an incorrect printer setting to me.

Am I dumb or do I not know how to assemble this... please help me...

hi luvdesigns
i dont know you so ill hold off judgment on whether your dumb or not. ;)

Did u look at the instructions (images 2-5)? everything you need to know should be there.
u didn't actually say what u were having problems with specifically. Mostly the assembly is self explanatory, so im guessing the most likely thing is that your putting one or more of the inner rings on the inner shaft back too front, so release slots don't line up.

I did exactly as shown.. can u tell me the steps please? I have no idea how the locking tool fits in...

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Can you please post a video on how to put this together. I went wrong somewhere along the way and I can't quite figure it out. A video would be super helpful.

Great work!
After grinding a little and with a drop of Vaseline, it works perfectly.

(Super Arbeit!
Nach ein wenig schleifen und mit einem Tropfen Vaseline, funktioniert es perfekt.)

How much is the total weight ?

Obviously it depends on your settings.
One i made of PLA at 1:1 scale, 0.6mm shell and 20%fill, came to about 80g including the locking tool.

Hay guys, a couple of you have mentioned about the safe being a bit tight. I’ve found the inner and outer rings don’t always line up perfectly due to the slight lip the bottom print layer always has. Its a tiney displacement but it can to make all the difference.
if you've already done the print you can just scrape off this lip with a hard metal edge.

ive now updated the files for the inner and outer ring so the edges have a small chamfer which should solve this problem.... hopefully :)

This is a great design. The tolerances are a bit tight so I had to employ some sanding to get it working. Nice job!

Woah this looks impressive!

This is beautiful and you have released it into the creative commons. Wow. I can only look in amazement and wonder what people are going to do with this idea.

thank you for releasing it.

thanks for the feedback onei, a bit of encouragement it always appreciate :) I'm glad u like it.

It is now on tinkercad with a text box to this link expect more in the future