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ekaggrat

holo clock

by ekaggrat Nov 30, 2014
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His
Are the electronic s till available to purchase?

yes at the tindie store

With a gear ratio of 1:30 (motor to hours ring), the clock will never be accurate. With this gear set, the perfect ratio is 1:30.514286...
I recommend to tweak the gears to the following set:
Rings: 180 teeth instead of 178.
Gear2: 20/40 teeth instead of 20/48.
Gear3: 10/42 teeth instead of 14/42.
s1: 14/20 teeth instead of 12/20.
With this configuration, the gear ratio of hours:motor is exactly 1:36.
Note that the base also needs to be modified.

i am aware of that and i compensate it in the code. what is important is the gear ratio between the minute ant hour gear of 1:12 the rest can be taken care in the code. the ring steps few steps every minute for 58 minutes and in the last move covers the error and repeats after that. I made this clock back when i was new to gear and clock design so unintentionally made this error but kept it as a reminder . You are the only one till now who pointed it out..... great job

Friend and where are the files of the circuit board, the circuit and the firmware?

What kind of motor do you use? You can give a name or a link. I wanted to put 28byj48 but it does not fit.

i use a 20mm tin can motor which i ordered in bulk so i dont think they are available in small quantities . there is a seperate plate for 28by called motor_plate_28byj_48 which u use instead

Could help, how to connect the engine 28BYJ-48, because it has 5 wires, and on the printed circuit board only 4, which wire to remove? and in what sequence? It is also not clear what kind of quartz is needed 8MHZ?

Is the arduino file still available?
thanks

OK found it thanks.

Hello

I would like to order the electronics kit, unfortunately, always comes the error message that it can not be shipped to Austria.
Is there a way to send the kit to Austria?

LG

This clock is a very good design and thank you for sharing this to the community.
Could you help make a remix on this clock (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2901179), by adding the hour hand?

Hawk Eye : a three axis tourbillon project

more like a add on than remix

Sure ! How much are you going to pay?

surprisingly, this conversation ended here.

It would be wonderful to mount tritium filled tubes on the minute and hour hands of this clock. That way you can see what time it is in the dark. You can get them on Ebay. ex: https://www.ebay.com/itm/QUICK-SALE-Tritium-Tubes-Vial-Stick-GTLS-40mm-1-5-Last-Chance/202465127006

sure it would be cool but it would be a lot easier just to print in glow in the dark filament!

I do recognize your philosophy of trying to print as much of the project as possible and minimize the number of "vitamins" involved. I greatly respect that perspective. :-)

Yes, and the glow in the dark filament would glow for a few minutes. The tritium in the tubes has a half life of ~12 years. (quite a bit longer :-) ) (quite a bit more expensive too) Now you could go with the glow-in-the dark plastic or anything that fluoresces and use a UV light source to do the job too. It all depends on the desired effect. There is also the option of using smooth "glass" surfaces for each hand and affixing the hand to that surface. You could half-silver or tint the glass and make a cool infinity mirror effect with the hands inside if desired. There are lots of cool options. :-)

Recommend just buying an arduino nano with a stepper motor (5v and comes with driver). In total should only be $5 total instead of what the creator is selling...

Use the arduino accelstepper.h library and you will get really good torque from a cheap $1.50 stepper.

sure u are welcome to do that .. i created a custom pcb so that it can be neatly hidden in the clock

Hey have questions about kits. Can 3D print all parts, so what kit would I want to use? Also if there is a kit without soldering that would be great.

option 1: assembled pcb (preprogrammed ) ,power supply and motor
option 2: a set of 2 assembled pcb ( preprogrammed ) without power supply and motor

choice is yours

So the kit on the website is listed as “assembled PCB set of two print your own pieces.” So it’s basically the complete kit without the printed stuff (including fasteners) correct? And does the set of two mean to PCB’s?

option 1: basic electronics. this is a complete kit without the printed parts
option 2 : assembled pcb set of 2 .. this is not complete .. it is just 2 assembled pcbs without anything else. i have this option because a few people just want the pcb!

thanks

I'm really struggling to figure out how to assemble the gear train. Can someone send me a few closeups of
an assembled one?

Comments deleted.

Awesome but it's a shame the maker isn't disclosing much about the board besides the Attiny2313 and the H-bridge. Awesome idea, someone just needs to replicate it with proper documentation and instructions.

hi mr mysterious... thanks for liking it. No offence but if you look carefully everything is there..

yes maybe i need to create a step by step assembly guide if that is what you are looking for..

You only have a picture of it with no info...

what "info" do you want.. everything is there on github if you just use ur eyeballs properly

No need to be defensive. You don't have a link to the github and the assembly is poorly documented. Own up to it or ignore it but no need to be childish.

Point noted . Will add baby steps of how to assemble when I have time sir!

Is there a detailed list of the electronics you used?
I understand there is a Attiny2313 and an L293DD, however what board and what other parts are soldered onto it?

Alternatively, what do I need to select on your webpage to receive:
Motor, board+electronics?
(and shipping to Germany, does not seem to be possible yet)

I'd like to print a 2.0m diameter version of this. any chance you can provide the source file for the large gear loops so I can play with it and enlarge. It will need support material and printed in sections (30+ in all).

Hi !
I really like your design and I would like to make one
Where can I get the non-printable parts ?
Thanks you

u could buy the electonics kit from me on the tindie store :)) or but parts separately online!

I don't see an electronics kit on your tindie store, can you please send a link, I am only interested in the motor and board. Thanks!

you just need to select the option of the basic electronics kit. thanks

It isn't available at the moment :(

yes but the complete clock is.. I stopped the electronic option as the shipping was costing more than the kit so it didn't make sense in single quantities .. if you can tie up with 2-3 friends i can send it across.

Comments deleted.

Whaaaaaaat??
does your link really go to google translate?
lol that is so funny I really did not know we could do this...

Deal a lot with Japan at work. This comes in very handy, and yes it is translating a motor spec sheet.

What an awesome concept for a clock!!
Great work!! Really nice!

thanks a lot for liking it!!

Is there any instructions on which piece is what with the illustration? Hard to tell which piece and how things are suppose to fit together. For example, what size spaces goes where? The holes in the gears are way bigger than the M3 bolt so is the space suppose to fit into that hole to center everything?

please have a look at the youtube video.. i havent had the time to make a detailed instructable yet .

I have watched the YouTube video several times. Really not that clear. For example, you mention that frame 3 and 4 are almost identical, but you can't tell from the video which one is which.

I printed the piece that holds the motor, but the holes are not in the correct place. I'm using the 28BYJ-48 step motor as i've read everywhere. I'm hoping it is not a scaling issue since i've printed everytrhing precisely as they were in the file list (didnt scale them at all). The holes just dont match at all. Is this a known issue? I could create my own piece but rather wait for if someone has a similar issue and got it resolved.

Comments deleted.

Where do I get the board?

Awesome clock!
But where is the rest of the part files (stp, stl rhino)?

Most of the files seem to be gone - only available at the Indiegogo campaign..? :°-(

I know! I'm planning on making a laser cut clock heavily inspired by this (a more accurate term from the computer world would be porting it), and I wish I had the files!

i have a laser cut version also. FYI the rings simply break. They are way to delicate.
.

Hi, is there any chance you could share the lasercut files with me? I have a new lasercutter and i would like to try test it by building some projects. Thanks!

Hi ekaggrat,

Cool clock. I am planning on building one for a school project, with a few changes: I will CNC the orange parts from aluminum, and print the black parts. I also plan on customizing the dial so it has numbers, and then adding a wedge to the front to indicate the time.

Here's what it will look like:
https://goo.gl/photos/AsRm1HoQPEqNdkkJ7

I noticed in other comments you said you worked with Rhino and Inventor. I was wondering if you had a 3d model (inventor preferably) with everything assembled- this would help me to determine the height I need to make the wedge indicator. Thanks!

yes i can share the step or rhino model ( mail me ). but it would be nice if you can share the inventor file once you are done with it ( in private if you dont want to share it here ). I like the rendering which have done but it is still not clear to me where the wedged will be attached.

good luck with the mod!

Yes I would certainly be willing to share the files here when I am done. The wedge will be attached to the top of frame_2_n.

yes i can share the step or rhino model ( mail me ). but it would be nice if you can share the inventor file once you are done with it ( in private if you dont want to share it here ). I like the rendering which have done but it is still not clear to me where the wedged will be attached.

good luck with the mod!

yes i can share the step or rhino model ( mail me ). but it would be nice if you can share the inventor file once you are done with it ( in private if you dont want to share it here ). I like the rendering which have done but it is still not clear to me where the wedged will be attached.

good luck with the mod!

yes i can share the step or rhino model ( mail me ). but it would be nice if you can share the inventor file once you are done with it ( in private if you dont want to share it here ). I like the rendering which have done but it is still not clear to me where the wedged will be attached.

good luck with the mod!

Hi,
Great design. However I am a bit confused when it comes to the non printed hardware.
I found these bolts, but I don't if they are the right size;
http://www.amazon.com/Du-Bro-4-40-Socket-Head-4-Pack/dp/B0006O4G6Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1459974008&sr=1-3&keywords=1%22+4-40+bolts

I assume I can buy the board from you as you said in the comments
however no one seems to be using the same motor,
which one do you recommend? (preferably one where I don't have to change the code)

hi,

this is the list of hard ware

bolts : m3 x 45mm 4 pieces
m3 x 25 mm 2 pieces
pcb spacers ( steel )( got them long time back cant seem to find them now )
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 12.mm length 2 pieces
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 8.5.mm length 4 pieces
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 6.5.mm length 2 pieces
you cn make these spaces from a pipe...

m3 grub screw for motor gear

for the stepper you can use any 20mm or 25mm diameter geared more than 1:10 ratio, bipolar or unipolar.

u can get the boaard from me or both the board and the motor. alternatively u can make your own board.
if you need hardware also i can send that also

mail me for details

I found some spacers (below), however they have a M3 thread. Will those work or would a plain tube be better?

http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyM0511-3-SS

yes they will work..

I was just wondering, what are the spacers used for? Bearings for the gears?

they are more of cylinders , yes bushing for the gears. at this size bearings are not necessary

Hi ekaggrat -

Nice clock design. I like the uniqueness!

I'm just about to print this off and am wondering.... Would it be possible to print the spacers instead of using steel spacers? I'm guessing there might be a friction problem, but thought I would throw out the idea.

As much as I like stepper motors, micro-controllers and such, I'm going to try a mod to make it work with a synchronous AC motor. Amazon sells one for $9:

http://www.amazon.com/Silver-TYC50-100-127V-10RPM-Synchronous/dp/B00XBG9DDU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1460521574&sr=8-11&keywords=synchronous+ac+motor

This motor can be plugged directly into 120 VAC. This will both decrease complexity and increase accuracy (as long as the power is on, wink, wink), as the power utilities guarantee exactly 60 cycles per second (when averaged over 24 hours). We'll see how it goes. If I have any luck I'll post the remix.

  • caked

i tried the printed spacers but the friction kills it.. th ac motor wont work because at present the way the clock works is that is just moves a little every minute and the rest of the time the motor is of. to use the ac motor u will need to further gear it down which will make it more complex.. maybe next version needed

Are there any instructions?

in the thing files there is a assembly sequence. and the program is on github.

I've printed all the parts, but since FFF printers, even a well-calibrated Ulitmaker2, are not very exact about making holes, I can't tell what the actual diameter of the holes in the various parts should be. Here is what I'm measuring. What should they be?

big_gear_3 hole: 2.72mm (should it be 3mm?)

big_gear_2, s1 gear, s2 gear, p1 (whatever it is), inner hole, 4.68-4.77mm (should it be 5mm?)

roller_1: ID: 4.53mm, OD (smaller) 7.26mm, OD (base) 9.64mm
roller_2: ID: 4.52mm, OD 7.24mm

On the frames, the holes that are supposed to take M3 screws end up 2.51mm in diameter.

I suppose all these can be carefully widened with a broacher or a drill bit, but then there is the problem that in the USA metric fasteners are unrealistically expensive, and it would be nice to be able to substitute the idiotic ones we get at our hardware stores. And since I don't have a copy of steptools, editing the STL files is extremely labor-intensive.

The assembly sheet is impossible to read; the black gears provide no contrast, one can't tell what meshes with what, or what should be free rolling and what should be attached.

You spent an incredible amount of time designing this, and you were kind enough to share it. Can you spend just a little bit more time writing up better instructions? Thanks.

Frankly a lot of people have assembled this clock without issues. And as far as sizes are concern there are only two hole sizes 3mm and 5mm Which have to be drilled out. And for free stuff i cant be spending too much time. And you should be a little more polite as i am not bound to serve your excelency

I don't see any impoliteness in my comment. Yours, on the other hand, reeks of condescension.

Okay my apologises. Next time i will take care of uploading stuff in a better place. Thanks

still there? sorry to bother...but it seems that i had a small problem. i find that the programme is for arduino but the processor is attiny-2313, how should i upload the programme to this processor?

I works on a arduino also. For the attiny you need to make a additional progammer which you can find on the net

Thanks for replying so fast. Actually i've been looking for this solution, but haven't got any progress yet. Can you say something more about the "additional programmer"? Thanks very much!

I built one use 28byj-48 stepper and a uln2003a. Everthing works excpet ... that the clock runs backwards. Can anyone help me how to modify the code?

just reverse the motor cable

send me the code you are using or post it here.

Comments deleted.

Sorry to bother you, but i am almost know nothing about chip or this mainboard, so can you tell me how can i get this board? How can that code wrriten to the chip?

It looks like I cheated a little on making my HoloClock. I confused myself a bit when I was trying to attach the stepper motor. I ended up printing a part that connected the stepper motor and then glued it directly to the big gear instead of connecting it to the provided motor gear. This of course changed the gear train ratios but it seems to work fine!

I'm currently working on the code for the 28byj-48 stepper using a uln2003a. So Hopefully this helps others.

all based on half steps.
5.625° per step. (5.625°/360°) = 64 steps per 360° of the motor
64:1 reduction actual 63.68395:1 (64x63.684) = 4076 steps per 360° after reduction.
178 teeth on minute gear / 20 teeth on motor gear( 178/20) = 8.9:1 so... (4076x8.9) = 36276.4 steps of motor for 360° of minute ring..

from there it's gets a little cray if you are trying to run it constantly.

(36276.4/60mins) = 604.6066666666667 steps per minute
(604.6066666666667/60secs) = 10.07677777777778 steps per seconds.

Comments deleted.

I did the math and I probably have different gear drive configuration than yours. I computed the ratio of my gear train and it seems to work as long as I use your "actual" gear reduction of the 28byj-48 stepper motor of (63.68351:1). I did some googling to try to find this number. Where did you get it?

i have the same problem with the current set of steppers i have .. the trick is to round of the steps for 59 minutes and use the error in the last minute or two to complete the circle.

Are you still selling parts for your clock, like stepper motor, and processor board.

Keli

Awesome project. I have all the pieces printed out. But the middle hole in frame_3_n refuses to print. keeps throws non-manifold errors in simplify3d. Could please upload that part as a stp so it can be repaired. Is anyone else having this problem in simplify3d?

Thank you. Keep up the great work..

just open it in slic3r and export the stl.. rhino files tent to have manifold errors. i sliced it in slic3r and cura . both had no problem..

thanks

opened in slic3r directly after downloading it from their website and it shows the same error, no hole. so i guess you won't share the step file? it's a 2 min fix so it cams properly in everything.... I can fix it with just an stl just takes more steps then would be required with a step file.

and yes i could use some other free version software but simplify3d is dialed in to perfection on my robo and has way more precision over printing.. and i seen atleast one other comment stating they had the same problem. just wanted to help the easier way...

strange but i cannot edit this thing . something is wrong.. send your mail id i will mail it to you...

Hey no problems, rebuilt it in solidworks. just got done printing it to make sure it was perfectly lined up to the original. it is.
So here you go.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1034346 don't know if you use solidworks or not. but you can have the part file if you want it. for solidworks or as a stp. lol it is your creation after all. just wanted to help.. i'll message you my email so you can hit me and ill give you the part file.

frame_3_n_holefixed
by Sobiguy

thanks. lately thingiverse is acting a lot vonky. personally i use rhino and inventor. so its fine. i have printed atleast 6 of these clocks till now without problem . using slic3r 1.1.7 . i have the stp files but thingiverse wont let me edit anything. i have sent a complaint .!

okay got it to work in firefox

I can open the STL files with Inventor but i have no clue what the STP files are for? also do you know where I could locate the parts to build the motor and the circuit board, as well as the code to program the motor to make the clock work? This information would be great so i could build a functioning working model like yours. I want to see about tinkering a bit and adding a seconds hand as well to the hours and minutes maybe even a way to install an alarm mechanism?

the stp files are there so you can modify the base to fit a motor of your choice.. all the pcb files and code is ther on the github.. the motor that i used is available only with me as i had bought them from a japanese surplus store and they dont make or sell them anymore. you can use any 20mm or 25mm geared motor and adjust the base to fix them..

the seconds mechanism just makes it too complicated ( i have a pendulum version that i never made ) . also you dont want a stepper motor going buzz buzz every second in the middle of the night. :)

Well, the stepper motor could be removed entirely and be replaced by a spring. This could then become the modern version of the mechanical clock! I agree though that a stepper motor buzz would be irritating all night but the tic tock noise from a mechanical clock can be quite soothing. :)

http://imgur.com/GhZHIkD.... based on a electromagnetic pendulum.... a spring one will be hard to achieve because of the friction in the gears.. but you are welcome to try..

Hey how can i get the Electronics behind this to make this thing tick? Maybe i can buy one off you, if so how much?

Hey! Nice design, thanks for sharing.
But i dont get what motor gear is connected with? And is there BIG_GEAR_1 *.stl file? Also where to put S2 gear?
Can you make photo from top whithout big rings, so gears placement is visible?

Thanks!

all the gears are there. The motor turns the big ring which in turn, turns the smaller gear train.. So without the big rings the clock will not work.

thanks for fast reply! Seems that my clock will never run, because big ring gives too much play and bend to turn other gears smoothly. In my opinion these washers on the "wings" should be placed really near to gears to make this construction more solid and rigid. Will try to do something with this, maybe some remix.

Connected to simple electronics on breadboard for test run and yes hour ring doesnt work because of gears, maybe i should print better quality? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzt1C41Ry0Y

yes you need a very accurate printer and dont even try abs.... good pla and a well tuned printer will make it work... i have made 8 till now and never had a issue ( btw the video is private )

Do you think these 4,5 mm tubes are important? what if all holes are just 3 mm? because there is no chance to find this kind of tubes in my country. So i used ink tube from gel ink pen, but it only gives additional friction. And for big gear in the middle i used m3 bolt + 3 x m3 nuts. Should i place washers somewhere? Btw i use W-24byj motor from cheap pan-tilt foscam camera. Its rated 5 volts and doesnt burn my laptop USB port. (fixed video, but there is not much to show :)

yes you need some kind of a bushing of the clock will not work.. tell me what dia bushing/tubing is available and i will modify the gears for them... alternatively you can try printing the tubes ( i can ) if your printer is upto the mark!..

Thank you! I will try to max out my prints quality and print bushing. Btw i have acrylic Prusa i3 from aliexpress printing PLA.

i have a mendelmax 1.5 which not as rigid as your printer . but the trick is to calibrate the extruder properly.. also the hot end on my machine is a genuine e3d v6 which produces a lot better prints than the clone hot ends on aliexpress ( i suspect you have one )...

Calibrated printer, and now i have much better quality, though clock didnt work either. And i found another problem: i use motor frame for 28BYJ-48 stepper, and it should be mirrored, becuase top 3mm holes are not symmetrical and they are wrong positioned, so all frame becomes a little bit bended. Now printing it mirrored, will tell you results.

Calibrated printer, and now i have much better quality, though clock didnt work either. And i found another problem: i use motor frame for 28BYJ-48 stepper, and it should be mirrored, becuase top 3mm holes are not symmetrical and they are wrong positioned, so all frame becomes a little bit bended. Now printing it mirrored, will tell you results.

Confirm its much much better now, can you please post gear parameters, so i can calculate needed steps/minute?

the motor to big gear ratio is 1:8.9 ( my motor has some wierd ratio ) .. The other ratio doesn't need to me adjusted.. ( it is 1:12 )
i also have another big ring which has a ratio 1:9 , so if this doesn't work out for your motor you could replace it with that. ( it is only slightly bigger so no other parts need to be changed ) ..I have not made one with the 28bj so i am not sure if the plate is right or wrong ... also the right and left wing are not symmetrical and need to go in the proper way of the entire assembly will not fir properly..

I modified a couple of parts to fint the 28BYJ-48 5V geared stepper motor, which is readily available. Have not finished yet, so not 100% sure it will work. It definitely needs modifications to the electronic also. See http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:693212

"Holo clock" parts for 28BYJ-48 geared stepper motor
by egil

the same electronics would work. you just need to get the timing right in the code. I have this motor but dint use it because it is too large and looks disproportional to the rest of the clock.

anybody with coding knowledge? i need help to get the motor timing perfect. thanks

Comments deleted.

Truly amazing design. How's the electro mechanical pendulum version coming along? I fell in love with the preview and can't get it out of my mind :D

the pendulum version is hard to get to work in 3d printed plastic because of the excess friction in the gears. Still trying..

Comments deleted.

also were did you get the PCB

Comments deleted.

Either make it your self or buy it from me

hey I am completely new at this and I need to know were you bought the circuit, I've printed all of the parts and I've got the motor. I just need the circuit.

What motor are u using?u can buy the assembled pcb from me

Comments deleted.

lovely...close to my dream clock (though it is somewhat more complex)

Ekaggrat, could I get you to upload the .stp for the middle gear?

I have my gimble motor ready to test but I need to make a relief in the hub of the middle gear to clear the mounting bolt heads. There isn't quite enough room in the drive gear to bury them there.

you should make a set for this. I want to print it but I just don't know how much I need and I need to print all at once.

Has anyone tested it with a 28byj48 stepper?
It would be more convenient with a 5V stepper to eliminate the voltage regulator and be able to power it from a USB port.
I have also some more improvements in mind and I'd like to start building it.

use a 20byj48 .. i am making the next one using that . also u cant drive it from a usb u will blow your port..

Thanks for your reply. I'd like to congratulate you for this unique project.
Why would I blow my USB port? How much current does it require?
Have you considered to use a RTC chip with a backup battery? With that you could know what time it is after a power failure and adjust automatically the needles when you turn it on. That would require knowing the position of the needles. For example using an endstop-like switch to restore them to a knowing position (e.g. 0:00) and then adjusting the time using the information from the RTC.
Also I have some more thoughts about LEDs on the needles.
I have never used stepper motors before and I don't understand how exactly your sketch works. You have 27 full steps every minute. Is that correct? Also you have 27 x 4 x delay(4) = 432 miliseconds delay every minute. So evey 24 hours your clock loses ~10 minutes (24x60x0.432"=622.08"). Have you verified this?
I don't have my 3D printer ready yet (still building my Prusa i3) but this will be one of my first projects as soon as I build it. I will look into your code and I'll try to improve this to minimize the fault.

Well good suggestions but keep it simple is the purpose here.regarding lost time yes it loses or gains 3 minutes but i cant figure out the reason for that.The steppers i initially used have a weird gear ratio which ends up in decimals .I would just use a walwart power supply.leds would be very hard to exceute. Best of luck with your printer.

Well good suggestions but keep it simple is the purpose here.regarding lost time yes it loses or gains 3 minutes but i cant figure out the reason for that.The steppers i initially used have a weird gear ratio which ends up in decimals .I would just use a walwart power supply.leds would be very hard to exceute. Best of luck with your printer.

Comparing the new frames to the originals, the original outside frames were the ones in error (too tall). does that mean that the current (original) motor_mount.stp file is also in error?

Comments deleted.

the motor mount was fine but now i have put the entire base in stp format for editing..

This Clock is awesome and would love to make my own. What software did you use to make you PCB I have been trying to find some freeware to open your files. I am somewhat new to the open source community so please forgive me ignorance, Thanks.

the pcb is in eagle cad... you get a free version of eagle cad

I was attempting to do so but I couldn't find a free version on there website. I had downloaded on that supposedly opened eagle files but it appear that was false. Is there an old release that was free or something? Thanks again.

Please Ignore what I had written if you somehow read it before I edited it

Thanks! If you go to buy instead of download they have the light edition listed as 70 bucks, I didn't think to keep searching the site after that.

http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/freeware/

the download area lets you download the software .. the free version is fully functional only the board size is limited to 100x 100 mm

it got featured on my birthday, how did I not notice? XD and a couple weeks late!

Any progress on that top-down view / assembly guide? I think I have this like 90% together but something doesn't work right and the last gear doesn't fit :p

added a seq.pdf and seq.jpg showing assembly sequence . Hope it helps!!

Thanks for the seq pics, but I still have the issue where the center wing support holes don't align with front and rear frame.
Putting the bottom bolts thru, the top holes are about 2mm to low.
Thoughts?

flip the wings ( right and left ) they are not symmetrical, one of the holes is slighlty different ( 1 mm ) . If you keep them one over the other you will know the difference.

No difference, neither lines up correctly, no matter which side I try them on. I did print 1 of each as they are slightly different.

I printed in ABS, possible material shrinkage?

send me a pic ... i have printed 3 of these in different pla colors and all line up .. Abs could cause some problems but not so serious to not line up

Will do. I am also printing another set at 101% to adjust for possible shrinkage to see I get any different results.

sorry had uploaded wrong frame files.. I have changed them ... :(

Thanks, reprinting now.

sorry i have run out of abs or i could test print a set for u and see the problem.. ( abs is a PITA anyways ) also what motor are you using . be warned any motor with less than 40-50 mN.m torque wont work ... I got some new motors with a different ratio and they don't have the kind of torque my scrap found motors had .

Thanks for the update! I tried to put mine together last night and had the same problem. I just confirmed the outside frames are exact to the motor frame .STP that was up when I downloaded the files. I noticed you did not update the motor frame .stp, did the outside frames change or just the middle frames?

I have modified the motor mount to use a BLDC gimble motor. I'm also considering trying a head positioning stepper out of an old CDROM drive but not sure if it will have enough poop to move it. They have a nice long 3mm shaft that might work well for this design.

I am using 1" 4-40 bolts ( 3mm hardware is hard to come by out in the sticks ;) two sizes of K&S aluminum tubing to form the bushings, and I have tapped several holes to avoid having nuts on the outside.

Would you be willing to upload the .STP files for the middle frames?
I have a mod I want to do and it would save me the trouble of recreating the parts from scratch :)

Thanks for the great design! I can't wait to see it work!

i have uploaded the entire base in stp format so that you can adapt it to any motor you want. I dont think a bldc motor will have enough power. I had got a lot of 10 motors from a seconds dealer and those motors were 12v with a 1:30 gear ratio and had a lot of brunt which over came all the friction in the clock. I got another lot which was a 1:15 gear box and those motors couldnt turn the clock. I ended up modifying those motors to bipolar from unipolar by shorting some coils inside the motor. That almost doubled the power and they run fine now. So you will have to try out different motors with gear boxes ..

Thanks Ekaggrat! I'll keep an eye out for the stp files. They don't appear in the file list yet.

I downloaded the new frame stl files you uploaded. #3 is not manifold. There is a problem with the hole in question (middle). The slicer output does not include the hole.

The motor I'm going to try produces 240g of torque. I'm sure it will turn it, I'm not sure if I can get the required rotational accuracy with it. I agree a geared or bipolar stepper would be much better but I haven't found a sutible unit in my desired price range yet.

cura works better for slicing small objects,,, slic3r throws errors with small holes and gears....

Comments deleted.

that thing is so cool. You did a very good job ;]

It's a nice challenge to print this great clock for me but I agreed with mitchlandry, a top and bottom picture could be welcome to spot which wheel is going with which ...
Again, VERY NICE JOB ! ;-)

Give me a day or two i will put a assambly slide show.I know it is tricky but if you follow a sequence it is simple.

Hi, I'm sure you're right but without, you can struggle a long time :-)

added a seq.pdf and seq.jpg showing assembly sequence . Hope it helps!!

Could you fix the position of holes for the 2 lateral wings?
In this way is very difficult to assemble
Thank you

Awesome design!!
After printing the various parts, couple questions.
Where does S2 go?
Big_gear_3, does it go between the 2 S1's on the backside?
Which gear does motor gear engage?
Would you happened to have a top-down image?
The center wings supports, the bottom holes don't quite align with base, about 2 mm to high on my prints.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The big ring is 150 mm in dia.

Nice work! Impressive. :) How big is that strange foreign (Everything is relative.) coin you used for scale there?

another reference the motor is 20mm in diameter. next time i will keep a scale in photography!

It's a Chinese Yuan, and it's about the same size as a US Quarter.

US quarters are also foreign to me. :p Thought it was some sort of american money. Yeah, see the characters on it now. :-)

I think it is great just the way it is. Instead of asking why he didn't use this or that motor just appreciate it for its uniqueness, and then sit down and derive your own versions. If there were only one right way of doing something or if everyone approached problems the exact same way the world would get pretty boring pretty darn fast. Cool clock dude!

yes i agree that is the whole point of 3d printing / rapid prototyping or we would just purchase manufactured stuff...

I've probably missed something, but where can I find a list of components and a diagram to make the PCB to drive this sucker?

in the github link or buy from me :)

Hello.

The big ring has no hole for arrow. How to fix it?

i avoided the hole to prevent the ring from weakening and distorting. Just glue the needles with super glue in place

Can you list how many of each printed part is required. I am having a hard time counting from the photo. So far I have one each (except the large ring) printed.

large ring 2
round pulley(p1) 4
small gear(s1) 4
rest all 1

Could you release a STEP file for the back panel or whichever it is the motor mounts to? I would like to be able to modify it so I can fit a different motor.

added both the motor plate and motor gear for you to adapt to your motor....

Awesome thanks!

limited 10 kits available.. mail me at ekaggratatgmaildotcom...

why not simplify it by using a synchronous 50/60hz mains motor?
Then there would be no need for any arduinos or steppers..

at that size ac motors are not available... if you have a link for a 20-30mm dia ac motor send me the link ...

I was thinking of those small motors that sit in older washing machines/dishwashers (the timer motor) they used to be asyncronous mains motors. Also found in SOME older mains wall clocks. I have no links but cannot believe that there are no small ac motors out there.

i looked around and found the smallest ac motor is 12v and 50mm in diameter...Even i thought of the washing machine ones when you mentioned AC motors but those are 60-70 mm in diameter and 50 mm long... I will soon order this 12v motor and maybe build a bigger clock around it :) ...

I know they are not "that" small, I wanted to build your clock but i always hesitate when there are microcontrollers involved. I always think things should be as easy and cheap as possible ;)

Too many people use arduinos for the most simplest tasks, no one seems to think of the simple discrete electronics.

i know it can be done with discrete electronics but at this size it is hard to squeeze all the components on the board...

Comments deleted.

Am I missing something or did you forget to upload the second 3 spoke sprocket?

OPPS .. done now

Very nice clock, keen on printing one. To get that stepper motor specifically might be an issue though (especially in SA). This stepper motor looks cheap and is available at lots of places. Do you think this stepper would work ok and would it be a mission to change the design for this specific stepper?

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Gear-Stepper-Motor-with-Driver-p-1685.html

I have this motor also ,the problem is the shaft is too short .if you want i will make a back plate for this motor but it will not be so elegant

Any news on this ?

T

sorry forgot about it.. I just uploaded a motor plate for you ( motor plate 28byj48.stl )

That would be great. Thank you :)

Where did you find the $0.10 geared steppers?

i ordered a set of motors for my other project a year back and this guy sent me these motors as a free gift saying he could not figure out the wiring and would dump them anyways :) .. I ripped open one of them to figure out the coil sequence and now i have 9 of them for future projects ( they seem to be some kind of japanese motors )

you could find similar motors i think they are used in cctv cameras . If not let me know the motor you get and i will modify the back panel to adapt to that motor

Very nice, well done.

wow this is really cool looking. Do you have a rough list of the bolts and hardware you used?

bolts : m3 x 45mm 4 pieces
m3 x 25 mm 2 pieces
pcb spacers ( steel )( got them long time back cant seem to find them now )
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 12.mm length 2 pieces
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 8.5.mm length 4 pieces
4.5 outer dia x 3.5 mm inner dia x 6.5.mm length 2 pieces
you cn make these spaces from a pipe...

m3 grub screw for motor gear
12v 20mm dia 3mm shaft dia 1:30 geared stepper motor

A beautiful thing! Can You add to the Arduino sketch?
I'ill try to make this clock, but with a little bigger pointers.

Greetings from Slovenia!
Branko

https://github.com/ekaggrat/holo_clock
the code is a little immature as i am not good at coding.... But it works

Thank you!
I wish you Happy New Year and a lot of ideas in creating things!