Here are the body parts to finish up the tanks front end. The gear box and arms to open the doors is under "Tank servo door opener mechanism" in my things. All of this stuff goes with all of the other tank parts in my things to build a complete tank.
I spent hours sanding and fitting these to fit right, but it turned out really cool. Worth the effort. Here is a You Tube Video of the door working https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqUzjV5_Pv4&list=UUCjC4uorEyPqZ48rLtGJbHQ
The one door (287) is 2.87" long and fits in all 6 places. Drill the screw holes out accordingly. Will have more info in the instructions.
Front cowls are made to fit on a piece of Aluminum channel on front of tank. The suspension block fits in the channel also, and holds a standard size MG996 180 degree servo, for opening the shuttle bay doors with gear drive and arms. The loops on top of the suspension block are for the front track tensioners to swing on with arms and springs. The holes in the middle cowls are so I can get a hex key wrench in to adjust the track tension. Pictures of tensioners are in the "front Idler sprocket and hubs", in my things.
Had a hard time printing some of these, some will have extra support that can be broken away when finished printing. Some of them are just too tall and the support collapsed. The extra support helped hold up the regular support.
Will have a drill diagram shortly. Still working on Battery placement, they hit the doors standing straight up like I want them. So there will be some alternate doors with clearance, and battery mounts coming soon. Still have the rotating turret to do yet, so stay tuned.
The doors all fit together and hinge with the same 15x1 1/2" brad nails that hold the track together with heads cut off. It is almost impossible to print the 287 doors straight. I used a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface to sand down the bottom of door so they are straight. Run a file in the grove for the frame to get lines straight and give clearance for frame. Can bend the brad nails a little at hinges if needed. File down the hinge area to fit. Door are .287" wide, drill holes to place hinges on side rails right at the door joints .150" down from frame top. Sand down the top of the corners of door so top of door if fairly flat. If you sand the door joints in a slight rounded angle you can control how the doors lay on the top by how tight the screw is holding the doors together. Drill the doors so you can get the screw in from the back starting with the door fronts. Drill .120" through .089" for screw to thread toward front of tank.
Front cowls and doors fit together with #4x3/8" and #4x1/2" screws. Front cowls have holes for T1 3/4 LED Lights held in place by plastic LED holders from Radio shack. Clamps screw to bottom of front cowl to clamp to aluminum channel. Suspension block holds standard servo for door opener. It is place back far enough to get the centering gear box in "Door opener mechanism" listing in my things. The mid cowls screw on to the suspension block and hole in frame. Place nails in mid cowl to use as hinge for door assembly. Slide the doors in and out of tank on those nails. Drill the front cowl to .073" so brad is tight fitting and hinges at .076-.078" to swing. Weight to fit doors to other parts until you have the doors fitting right and moving freely. Then fit to other parts to doors so you have a nice fit at the cracks around door. Set up the door linkage like in the photos using #4x1/4 screws and small washer with .180" center. More instructions in the door mechanism listing.
Patients yields results. Have fun!