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Saber-Toothed Cat Skull

by MakerBot Sep 23, 2014
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Why would you not separate the upper skull and lower jaw? The amount of supports is horrendous. Does anyone making these things think about the actual printing of them?

What scale is this please ?.

What filament it is? Or it is paint?

I used this with support, i turn it around so it lays on the bottom side. PLA white and it looks very good with layer hight 0.2
But the baseplate with this small shaft are not good. Here i used PETG. Don´t know here is a problem of this PETG or my settings.
Now i draw my own baseplate with a thicker shaft...hope this will work.

What particular species is this one? I'd love to have a Smolidon Californicus on my shelf.

looks nice, printed with brims, no support.

OMG the logo in the first few layers makes this SO much harder to use. Jesus.

The first layer is the most important, and requires the best adhesion possible. I'm about to print this at 2.416X scale and I can't even begin to describe how much the logo at the base sucks.
I get it. But come on.
Put it somewhere else... on the side.....anything! I don't care at this point.

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Why is there no instructions with infill or other helpful tips for people? None in any of the skull collections..

I have tried twice to print this on my makerbot replicator +. I have not had good luck!!!!! Not with this particular file, but most files either warp up off the build plate to the point they are junk, or in the case of this cool skull it gets to about 80% and then just falls over and is ruined. Any advice? I am to the point of being very sorry I bought a Replicator +.

Get a lulzbot, a much more reliable printer with 24 hour tech support. I don’t work for them but they have the best printer I’ve ever owned and they’re some of the nicest people around.

Having just printed this I may be able to help. Here's what I did (after two failed attempts):

  • make sure you have some Z hop on retractions in your slicer settings (so any slight curl-up doesn't result in the nozzle knocking the model)
  • print reasonably cool, to help the overhangs
  • print with support on, although you may get away without it
  • shave about 2mm off the bottom of the model as printed (so the back of the skull) -- in Simplify3D I simply moved the model 2mm into the bed before printing
  • print with a brim of, say, 15 perimeters
  • make sure that brim is really ground into the bed by setting the nozzle height a little lower than usual -- so the brim is thoroughly squidged into the bed.

Mark (Seaside 3D)

OH and I have leveled the build plate several times, and wipe it with rubbing alcohol to make sure its clean. (which mildly helps). Thanks for any advice!

Comments deleted.

how long should this take to print

It took me 13 hours at 2600 mm/min and a 120% scale.

so realistic as a real skull

What color filaments were used for the skull and the teeth?

Seems this file is not editable. Any ideas why i cant get into it?
Was going to crack in half and create a larger print.

How can I cut this into smaller pieces so that I can scale up to full size?

Those instructions are interesting...

im having huge issues printing this, ive failed 6 times, and it seemes to get pushed over by the printhead every time at somewhere the same spot. ive tried all kinds of speeds, adhesives, layerheight, sizes of the print... What do i do? i need desperate help ;/

ultimaker2 .04

I solved this by making a think ABS glue and applying it to a hot bed with blue tape on top. Turn the bed on, let it head and dry the glue for 5 to 10 minutes and start the print. Worked well, even though I printed with PLA and ABS glue.

I've got the same problem but I'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal. Have you figured out a sollution yet?

I am going to try turning them on their sides and using supports.

Is there a split version, with one canine tooth in each stl and the skull splitted in half?
i've tried printing this numerous times now and it has failed every single time due to the part touching the bed is to small.
And yes i've tried with support and tried in both cura and slicer...

Download netfabb and split it yourself. Simple.

Download netfabb and split it yourself. Simple.

Download netfabb and split it yourself. Simple.

Download netfabb and split it yourself. Simple.

Ive already done that, I wrote that over one year ago...

fwiw, I've been trying to find a good answer to this question for a while and this is the best suggestion so far.

Love this model, but would love it more if the lower jaw was separate.
Does anyone out there in the thingiverse have the skill to separate these two pieces so I can print it out even bigger!
Would be great if the joint looked like the proper bones but Id be happy with a barrel hinge joint!

is this a 1:1 scale model

Nice! What specific colors did you use?

Nice model, so everyone prints this without support?

nice, is that a scan or a modelisation?

Noticed the stand doesn't seem to be printing correctly. I printed it times and it came out exactly the same each time. Right in the middle of the stick that holds the Saber tooth skull it prints it all spiralled and rough.

Thought I would share and hope it's helpful to others.

When it starts to go spiraled and rough it may be do it insufficient cooling between layers.
When printing small diameter objects a layer may not have sufficient time to cool and harden before the next layer is printed. Thus you get a melted "ice cream cone" effect.

One easy trick is to print two of the same objects a bit apart so one has a chance to cool as it prints the other.
For a larger model you can try adding a simple column the same height as your print.
I have also have heard of people making the skirt be the same height as the model. (Also a trick to help block drafts from the main print.)

This thing is very cool. I did a blue Skull w/green teeth.

That's really cool!!!
Good JOB!

Can you provide separate files for the lower jaw and the skull?


Hi thegonz! The head skull and lower jaw are one piece. Keep the orientation as is and it can be printed without supports!

I was skeptical given the tiny footprint but I can confirm it will print as-is without supports. (I reduced print speed to ensure each layer cooled smoothly without getting gummy or curling - which in my experience is the likeliest cause of obstructions that could cause the extruder to knock over your print.)

Now that is cool.

I've said in other places and I'll repeat it here, I'd buy these from the MBI store if they were the STLs and I could print them on any printer instead of requiring specific Makerbot printers.

There are more than a few ways to easily convert STL's to OBJ's.

Not sure I understand, what about this is objectionable that you would pay to make go away?

Not objectionable. I'm saying that if you buy the other skulls they are only printable on Makerbot printers. This one is the STL object files and can be printed on any printer. If the ones in the store were the object files I'd buy them (and others). I'm trying to tell Makerbot that they are losing sales by being so restrictive.

where are you buying models? I didn't realize that makerbot was selling other models.

See the link in the description of this Thing.

Same here. I'd pay for the STLs as well.

I agree. I would buy several of the models from the MBI store. Although when they teased us with the very cool T-rex that we could not print, it did inspire me to create my own T-rex model which has been an interesting venture so far.