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by 271828 Jan 26, 2013
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Great Job.
Can you share the size of the top and bottom triangules bases?
Thank you

Beautiful aluminum parts (is 2024-T351 a little overkill? would 6061-T6 work fine?) , and I will most likely use the excellent extruder design.

However, why only use the StepStick A4988 on the extruder? It offers 0.9 amps per coil. Would a more beefy driver ensure improved extruder reliability?

Thank you! 2024-T351 is way overkill, but I already had the material on hand, 6061-T6 will be fine, machine nice and be cheaper to purchase.

The A4988 is an excellent chip for the price. It really depends on the stepper motor and how the extruder drive is setup. The current rating of the motor should be close to what the driver can deliver. Whats also important is if the driver (A4988) has enough voltage available to keep the current constant as the RPM of the motor increases (higher induction at greater RPMs results in a larger driving voltage needed to maintain constant current). I'm running my printer on 24v vs. the typical 12v which allows me to run higher voltage stepper motors with less current.

Nice Work! I am Starting to plane one, Base on Makerslide. Do you have a picture of the link part to the belt?

I uploaded an .stl file and the best cell phone pic i could get. The belt is overlapped, teeth locking together, forming the proper length and wrapped with wire. The spliced section is slid into the slot in the part and held in place by the tension of the belt.

Thank's Verry apreciated!

Great job! Now about the aluminum extruder, where can I get one of those?

Thank you! Aluminum extruder? For extruding aluminum? Just set it to 850C and get MIG aluminum wire, remember to take lots of pictures...

haha! I meant the metal made (Aluminum I believe) extruder you have in the pictures. Diagrams maybe?

The nozzle is turned from a 5/16-24 stainless bolt, the inside is step drilled from 4mm to accept the PTFE tubing to 1.75mm at the heating block and 0.35mm at the end. To secure the tube a 1/8 tube fitting can be drilled to 4mm and threaded onto the bolt with a 4mm ferrule (I made a ferrule from aluminum). A normal heating block is made to thread onto the bolt. The top end of the bolt, below the tube fitting, threads into a cooling block that will support the nozzle. See the provided nozzle file for shape reference. If I find some extra time I will make drawings and post.

Very good-looking heavy-duty machined parts!

Thank you! The aluminum parts might be overkill but they do look good.

I have to say I have been a doubter about the Rostock printer capabilities.
the print quality I see here really is a compelling argument that it is indeed
a very good design. I am particularly interested in the higher z dimension prints.
the size of the print and the level of detail are pretty impressive for a non-cartesian design. I am pleasantly surprised. Good job!

The positional accuracy can be quite
good if attention is paid to the geometry and size of drive pulleys.
The largest issue is backlash in the rod ends. This can be
compensated for by applying preload in the direction of the
connecting rods with a total magnitude in the range of two times the
mass of the end effector.