- Designed mainly as a DIY footswitch for a Peavey amplifier, but the case could be used for any two-button design (ie. some Fender models)
- Three versions included - a plain one with no labels but a slot for the logo, and one labeled with CHANNEL and REVERB for use specifically with a Peavey Studio Pro amplifier, and a third one with no writing or logo slot in case you want to leave it plain or paint your own.
- Designed to fit 2x DPDT foot switches and 2x LED's. I used DPDT switches because that is what I had on hand, however the standard Peavey unit uses SPDT switches. They are the same size, regardless.
- See the instructions page for more details.
Print this with a high level of infill and perimeters - you want it to be nice and strong to take the abuse of being stepped on. You may need a raft or at least a brim to avoid warping if your printer cannot do large flat surfaces easily.
I sliced it in Cura and used 3 shells and 50% infill and it seems quite sturdy.
I printed it all in PLA. The top portion is gray PLA that I already had loaded on the printer, the logo is silver PLA and I did the base in black PLA so I didn't need to paint it to match.
You can sand it down and paint it if you want it to look more like the original pedal, as I did in the photo. I used three coats of plastic-safe spray primer and some fast-drying drywall filler to smooth out some printer artifacts.
I brush coated the unit with water based acrylic (three coats) and then brush coated it with three coats of polyurethane. You'll probably get nicer results with spray paints, but this is what I had on hand.
Sand it lightly with a fine grit sand paper between coats.
The small slot in the face is for a logo to be printed separately. I traced the logo from a vector file I found online so you can have the obligatory cheesy Peavey logo.
The logo is unpainted silver PLA which I used plastic cement to attach it to the face and held it in place with elastics. I put a final coat of polyurethane over the face once the logo had set.
Wire it up point-to-point as appropriate for your amplifier, these are pretty basic circuits and don't usually need a battery. I recommend testing the electronics before mounting them to the box.
I glued the LED's in place from the inside with a generous amount of hot glue and also tacked the wiring in place where it exits the top panel at the back.
You can make the bottom out of a piece of wood or metal, or I have added a printable base to the files now. Originally it was intended to be screwed on, but since this unit doesn't ever need to be opened after assembly (no battery needed) I made it a simple glue-on base.
I used hot glue which I applied quickly then used strong elastics to hold it together to get a good solid adhesion.