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Cleven

Honda Key Housing Replacement

by Cleven Aug 5, 2014
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I strongly recommend against using PLA. I tried printing this 3 different times and it always split the plastic just from trying to assemble it.

Maybe printing the grain along the length would've solved this. If anyone successfully printed with pla let me know how you did it please.

can you give a little clearer instruction on which model is to be used?

I have printed this before but the little peg never worked from key 2, would never fit or would break

having a crazy thought of trying the asm5, no supports and pausing at the right layers to drop the parts in and then resume print

Man I have tried to print this thing about 100 times over the course of a year. No matter what I couldn't get the key2 file to print. I kept trying to lay the broad side of the key down on the platform. Didn't realize there were little taps on the part that "meshes" with the key 1. Essentially my printer was trying to get it to stick to air. Once I printed it vertical, it worked like a charm. haha

I tried printing this. Unfortunately, for some reason my filament keeps ejecting. It only does it when I try to print the Thickers file. I tried printing using different orientations and have the same results of the filament ejecting from the top of my extruder. Any tips I can try? I used Cura 4.0 to slice and a E3D Titan Aero as my extruder and hotend. My printer is an Anet A8 (AM8) with Marlin 1.1.9.

parameters as:
Nozzle size.
Feed speed.
Temperature.
Material.
Will be helpful to try and figure out the problem.

Nozzle: 0.4
No fan
Speed: 50mm/s
Temperature: 245 nozzle, 95 bed
Material: eSun ABS+

Sorry one more.
Layer height?
(Perhaps you are printing too much volume)
First slow the speed as it seems like you are trying to push too much material through. Try again at 30mm/s or at least slower than you have been printing.

Layer height is set at 0.15mm,
It seems the filament ejects right around where the metal part of the key rests and when it's trying to print the supports. That is when the part is oriented with the button holes facing down on the bed.

Turn the retraction off?

That was the ticket! I change retraction to 0 and it finally went through! Thank you!

hey man, every single one of your file names follows a different convention.key 1 and key 2 go together for some reason, "asm5" even though there's no other assemblies uploaded, etc. just saying, it really helps us out :)

excellent work on the modeling I know i'm 5 years late to comment but this'll have some actual use with me, appreciate it.

Hi, im not really sure which version to print, the one that is whole in one, does it have a crack to open it up and insert the key?I men the one of 08-05-2014
which one do you recommend? Because the one that I mentioned takes less time to print, but I am doubting on how to put the key in
Thanks in advance

Comments deleted.

Just deleted comment. It was a remixed version that had a literal solid slot with supports? Idk it was weird. He had 2 versions, one of them looks better so I'm trying that now.

Appreciate the time you've taken on this though! Hope this works for the gf.

It will work just take your time fitting . Nylon has been the best option it has been going strong for almost 4 years.

Can you share an editable file?

Thanks for creating this thing! BOTH my keys are falling apart for my 2012 Honda Pilot. This is the exact model I needed!

What slicer did you use to create those supports? Looks a lot better than what Slic3r generates.

Thanks again! Will post make when done.

Just used cura. Printed it in nylon it has lasted 4 years now.
You may need to sand a bit and take your time. I made a few variations one I made I melted together using a soldering iron. Wasn't looking for perfection at the time.

The housing cracks as soon as I try to place the key inside. Could you please explain your printing process?

The key should slide right in. Perhaps you need to slow down the print to get better binding beteeen the layers.
Also try standing up the part to make the layers perpendicular to the key. The last one I did out of nylon and it's been going strong for 3 years

Hey Cleven,

I'm a bit confused on which model I'm supposed to use. I'll have to use a service to get it printed, so I kinda gotta make the first shot count. Hah. Thanks in advance!

any chance of a 2 round button STL/STEP for the original Honda FIT key shell??

  none of our broken shells/keys have 3 round buttons only 2

 thanx in advance
 gh

Check the remixes. Someone made one I think.

Do you have a version of this model for Honda keys that have a slot for an immobilizer chip?
https://youtu.be/zj_E-NIt6z4?t=2m13s
It's very similar, if you can post the modifiable project file, I'd like to give it a go if someone hasn't already posted it. Thanks for the great upload!

I will upload a step file and other raw versions on youmagine.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/honda-key-housing

Comments deleted.

what did you use for infill?

Solid (100%) seems to work best . Also scale the vertical a percent or two bigger.
It will clip together well and hold but glue it also around where it joins at the metal. This will ensure a stronger bond where it torques.

nice, thanks for the tip and thanks for sharing! printed it today and it's working okay - the key slot is a bit narrow for my key blade thing but i probably just need to calibrate my printer a bit.

Thanks for sharing this! I've broken so many of these very expensive keys, this is a lifesaver!

scaling the vertical is what would fix the tightness at the metal key, I find i just sand/heat the metal to fit perfectly to the key. This way it is tight and does not allow it to wobble too much :)

few things, what do you mean scale the vertical. you mean the vertical that is set that it opens up as default, standing up and down.

and infill density really to 100%?, seems way more then i normally run

I just realized I scaled it horizontally because I am dumb! Thanks for the heat the key idea - makes sense and the snug fit is certainly a good thing to have.

thanks!

I have an 06 Honda and it only has buttons for lock, unlock, panic. There is no trunk button. I'm going to try to remix this.

How did you get the metal part of the key out of the original fob? It's my understanding that it is fused to the plastic piece that has the holes in for the buttons. Also: do you know the FCC ID or Model Number of the original fob?

There is a small screw in it. It should pop right out.

Does this hold up well if printed in PLA, or does it need to be printed in ABS?

I printed mine in pla. I've been using it for well over a month now everyday. Still working great. Make sure the layers are bonded well and it will be fine.

Question for those of you who have had success..... I printed top and bottom for a friend whose broke and all the inner parts fit and what not. Here is what I am wondering....did any of you place the sensor in the new one you made....if so...did you secure it in any way? Also, does the metal key portion just sit firmly in the replacement? Do I need to glue it in any way? Thanks!

The sensor fits snugly in there. No need to secure. The key fits very tight you will need to play with it to get it in. I glued mine too just incase but it wasn't needed

Also, I'm pretty sure this is exactly what I'm looking for, but I'm going from memory. What year honda key did you base it on? I don't remember the "reset" hole by the lock button on her key.

It works in my car. Made a test version before I flew home for vacation (I have a different car in Europe than in North America). Turned no problem seemed pretty strong at least stronger than the original. I think it cost me less then 50cents :)

It was from an 08. There are many different key fobs. All should fit. You just may have a blank hole.
Depending, many keys were the same shape for a few years/models.

This is a miracle. I am downloading this, and I don't even have a printer yet. I may have to find someone to print it for me before I get my printer in December. I've been superglueing my wife's key back together for about 2 years. I think that I told her last time was the last time. maybe I was right, but for the wrong reason.

You can always buy blank complete keys cheaper online. Then Have some keycut place that can do these types of keys to cut it, then simply bring it to Honda to reprogram the chip for 30 or so, or replace the new chip and key in the old holder. Wouldn't cost too much.
Note full key from honda runs around 180 so never bother with them if possible lol.

Yeah, we were going to get a replacement key from the hardware store around here, for about $80. I haven't found anyone local to laser cut and program these things for cheap. I have a friend with a printer, I'll have to ask him to print it for me I think. I can't imagine that after shipping, laser cutting, and reprogramming I could do better than the $80 aftermarket replacement, but this is really what I wanted to do anyway. There's nothing wrong with the key or electronics inside, the case is just poorly made and about to break (again).