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T4 Quadcopter Mini 315 Drone (7-8 inch props)

by Brendan22 Jul 27, 2014
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Hi Brendan,

Nice work on all these drones and the test and assembly videos are very useful.

Fairly new to drone and wondering if you have a rough BOM for the T4 Quadcopter Mini 315, something I can use a guide more than anything to buy all the bits?



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Do you use the same length arms all around? Or are the 7" arms for up front and the 8" arms for the back?

I used same all around.

Thanks for the fast response!!! In your pics it almost looks like the back arms are a litte longer, but i think its just the angle.

What kind of flight time are you getting with that 3s? And any reason the frame couldn't fit a bigger 3s or 4s? Something like a 4500mah?

It's been too long since I've had time to fly unfortunately so I don't recall ...and of course it will depend our your combination of components. The frame itself is very light so it will not "weigh you down". If you want bigger you could try a full size T4 - or download the Sketchup file and tweak the design to suit. Cheers (and season's greetings).

Thanks for this-is this model large enough for pixhawk autopilot module?

Should be fine.

Hey Brendon! great job mate, i really like your T - COPTER family builds! i have a small doubt tho, initially i wanted to build the design with the 10 inch props so i went ahead and bought 1045 props now sadly the build area of my 3D Printer isnt big enough to print the body of the 10 inch T4 so im going for the smaller option, however is there any way to manage to still use the 10 inch props or there is no clearance at all? and ill just have to get new props?

Hey guys, I printed out all the parts and everything worked well. I only struggle to get the Body part printed out correctly. Has someone else had issues with this one ? Any suggestions on the settings beside the recommended ones ?

Any specifics about the issues you are having?

Hello, Brendan22!
I print frame T4 Mini 315 with the hands at 7 inches. 30mm motor cup (inside diameter).
Advise, please, low-cost motors and ESC entry level to copter was able to fly up with action-cam weighing 55gr.

I am out of touch with current options. Hopefully someone who has done a recent build can assist...

hi i am printing this drone and have printed the body and arms so far, but when i tried to fit the arms in to the body they wouldnt go in beucas they were so mishapen and too big. what can i do to stop this from happening????

This is probably a question best submitted to folks who know your printer.

If things are tight fit it can often be because your printer is extruding too much plastic. You would normally identify that by printing a "calibration object" that is a known size, measure it with calipers and the adjusting your printer settings to suit. Again, raise this question with folks who know your printer (eg supplier or community).

thanks im trying to print it agian with the recomended settings, so ill keep you posted! thanks!

what electronics did you use on this guy. its amazing by the way!!

From memory it was an Ardupilot clone flight controller and 4 x AFRO ESCs (don't recall current - perhaps 10amp).

i'm printing this quadcopter, very very great job. I like a lot the skp file inside. wich kind of plugin u use to draw this things? thanks!!

I think just the one for creating STL files and another called "Make Faces".

I thought that for making the holes in the surfaces you used a plugin

Just the built-in push/pull tool.

and a lot of patience !!! ehehe great job

Can you explain how to setup the FPV on the 250 or 315?

My motors are emax mt2204(19mm and 16mm) which arm should i print

Perhaps the smallest ones (28mm 7"). Just print one and see if it will work.

Okey thank you i printed body and it took 6 hours

Do you have a list of all the electronic parts we will need?

I'm printing your design right now. And I really it!

I have a constructive comment. Because I'm watching my printer print allll these little "speed holes" / cut-outs to drop the weight, I couldn't help but think how much longer it takes and whether or not I'm actually lowering the weight. So I took "top plate" and edited it to be solid and here are my results... The original part weighs 18grams, takes 60 min to print. The solid part weighs 20grams and takes 50min to print. This is using the same slicer settings (3 perimeters, 2 top and bottom layers, 30% infill). So the solid part is faster and weighs slightly more, it also is going to be much stronger and because it has a solid surface I don't feel like I have to baby the first layer of the print.

Just thought I'd share my findings in my quick experiment.

Thanks Steve. The motivation for the holes was more about ventilation for the battery and ESCs. As an aside, I've found that the shells created by the through holes causes the plates to be more slightly more rigid that with "solid" plates and infill throughout (but not enough to be significant).

Though it will be more rigid with the holes everywhere it will also be more brittle, and with many holes with a small surface area between them it makes for an easier crack when it crashes.

Is there a complete part list available?

If you have the ESCs in the tube, wont they overheat?

The ESCs are intended to be in the bottom tray - just the wires to the motors go through the arms.

What you have created here is really amazing and could or should be marketed. I wonder if you could get this site to do a review of your airframes? http://microdronesamerica.com

Brendan - just a word of thanks. Your design is great and easy to work with. It allowed my son and I to put our first quad copter together, and it flies really well. A great learning experience, and its pretty awesome to have a bad crash, break a part and just run upstairs and print another.
We started with the 250, moving up to the 315 (great excuse to up-size my printer).

Vol du 11-8-2015 a St julien en Auvergne sur le Spectome

I'm looking to convert my ZMR 250 into a T4 Mini, but I like to occasionally use my 3s 2200mah battery with the ZMR. I'm also adding gps antenna a a small servo gimbal for camera pitch as well as other required stuff like receiver FC, switching BEC, VTX. The ZMR flies well with all my junk on it (although a bit more sluggish than my 1500 mah battery), but I really HATE carbon fiber. I keep getting shorts to fram in crashes and plastic is RF transparent. I really like this family or multirotors that you have developed here. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this 315 body with the t4-250 arms. Is this body much heavier? I have 1806 2280fv motors and 5 inch props (Tons of them). Do you think this combo would be too heavy to carry all of my equipment with 5 inch props?

Edit: Looks like someone else in a previous comment has tried this, but never reported back if it works... So I assume that means it did LOL

Hello Brendan, fantastic work. I print it and have some problem with the Bottom Tray. For my Motors i need 20A ESCs.
My Problem is that i have no place for the 4 ESCs. The Bottom Tray must be 5-7mm higher to fit. Can you help with a new (higher)Thing File ? Greetings from Germany.

Hello kaims, I had the same problem with the bottom tray and modified it to fit 30A ESC so it should work for your 20 A ESCs. Take a look at: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961740

Hope it helps!

T4 Mini 315 modified bottom tray (higher)

Sorry for the delay in replying to this. I am buried in work at the moment so don't have any time for these projects. The source CAD Sketchup file is in the downloads if anyone else wants to have a go at it. Cheers, Brendan.

What were the motors in the video rated(Kv)?

1090kv - link is about 7 posts down :)

Printed with exactly your settingsPLA, 0.25mm layers with 40% infill, 2 shells and 3 top/bottom layers
arms are perfect but will not insert into mini test socket without splitting sides of test socket. either socket too small or arms too fat. should I print the frame anyway, or is there a better way to get these pieces to fit as easily as yours do on your video?

This probably means that you are pushing a bit too much plastic into the job resulting in it squashing out and making the parts bigger than intended. In you slicing software try reducing the extrusion flow rate (eg by 10%) and see what happens. This thing might help to calibrate your printer - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:52946

Calibrate your 3D printer to print parts to fit

thanks, Brendan. i'll give that a try

Hi Brendan,
Fantastic, I admire your work. After a bit of reading, I have started to build the Mini315 as my first quadcopter project.
Can you share the kind of motors that you have used for your model please (specs, etc.)?
I would also like to ask how you are planning to use the posts, post plate and battery pin. So far I have missed to find information on those pieces. Thanks a lot for any reply, Harald

The posts and plate are used for mounting a GPS or receiver - but they also provide some basic protection for your flight controller in case you end up-side-down. The battery pin slides into the slots in the body after you install the body - to stop the battery falling out.

I think I detail the parts I used in the build video on YouTube. The motors I used were Turnigy SK3 2822 1090kv (alhough I had to cut the shaft of these ones http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18151__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_2822_1090kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html)

Comments deleted.

does the std. arms from this copter also work with 10" props? seems like those are far more common than the 8"

You'd best best to step up to the full size T4 quadcopter - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:261145

T4 Quadcopter Drone

the problem is, it wont fit on my printbed, otherwise i would have chossen the full size one...

do not bother, i find some props and motors that fit

are arms interchangable?

for ie i want to use 315 body for bigger space with 5 inch arms its little brothers have?

Yes. All of the T4 mini arms are interchangeable.

I finally got this printed, after a good deal of frustration. I was printing with PLA on a Makebot Replicator2 - had trouble with the flat surfaces lifting up (warping).

I typically use tape on my build plate, in order to make the parts easier to remove. When I tried to print these parts without tape it improved the builds, but I still had particular trouble with the main body of the copter. I eventually was able to print it by placing the part perpendicular to the build plate. I don't know why this made a difference, but it apparently did.

Of course, I had a good deal of difficulty in removing the parts from the build plate. But that's hopefully all behind me right now.

THANKS for the great design. Now I need to order the electronics and other parts and get this flying.

I really like the design of this quad but I am having issues. To be fair, I printed in ABS. I started at 30% infill then tried 90%. On the arms where the motors screw into, they are cracking with just the force of the motors. I used your recommended motors. I have not crashed this quad in any way. I have tried the 28mm and then did the 30mm arms but the same thing happened. I thought that the 30mm would work for sure because they looked beefier but no dice. Just sharing my experiences.

I haven't had any trouble using the settings shown in the Instructions however I do use small flat washers under the head of each motor bolt. Perhaps that would help?

Yep, did that too but it didn't help.

3 top and 3 bottom layers? Props balanced?

Yes, I used 3 top and 3 bottom layers and balanced the props. It's strange.

Hmm, I'm about out of ideas. Perhaps use one of the metal "cross" parts that often come with the motors - like one giant washer. Has anyone else got any suggestions?

That's a good idea! I do have the metal cross parts. I will try that and report back. It may take me a few days...

One last thought. If you are using some kind of thread locking liquid (eg Locktite) make sure you don't get any on the ABS: http://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/2hk4ww/psa_dont_use_locktite_on_fasteners_that_will/

You might be onto something there. I did use blue loctite on the motor screws...

the battery slot is compatible with a Turnigy 4000mAh? I can adapt?

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?


The full sized T4 would be best if you want to use a gimbal. These smaller ones should be fine for a GoPro by itself - although it's not the most aerodynamic form factor!

As mentioned in the build video I'm using Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 2822 motors on this quadcopter (with 8" props). On the 250 I'm using Lumenier 2206-11 motors with 5" props (see instructions page).

Unfortunately I haven't done any flying for weeks now due to bad weather and to much real-life getting in the way! :)

Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?


Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?


Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?


Hi Brendan,

Is it the full size T4 that I should be looking at for carrying a gopro? Or will this one handle it? And also what size motors are you using for this model and also the 250?



This is awesome work!

Any particular reason you chose PLA ( instead of ABS )?


I just find PLA easier to work with. Less warping issues - which is important for close fitting parts.

Thanks Brendan - I wonder if PLA is crash resistant compared to ABS as it is more brittle and has less flex.

By all accounts PLA will take more force before it fails - but then it breaks. Whereas ABS will fail a little bit sooner - but only bend (permanently).

Hi! what are the rough dimensions of this quad? Thanks!

If you choose the 7" arms then this quad in 315mm diagonal motor-to-motor center.

Quick Sketchup question? I noticed you built each piece in half segments, When I try and export the STL out of Sketchup, The halfs do not combine correctly. how do combine to make a single component, Are you using Pro?
I built the quad and it flies great. I used the afro 20amp escs and needed to make the bottom deeper for all the wires and bigger capacitors, I have the file in scetchup using your design and it looks great. When i export the file does not export both halves correctly.
Great design, love it. I have not printed the new anti vibe top yet. But i am planning on it.

Hi Greg. I'm just using the free Sketchup Make. When I create STLs I go through the follow steps:

  • Copy the components that will be part of the STL (including any mirror images for half-components) into a new Sketchup file.
    With everything still selected...
  • For the files (like this one) where I've been working at 1000x scale, scale x0.001
  • choose "Explode" to explode any groups and components (repeat if necessary)
  • export to STL
    Extra steps I take...
  • open the STL in Simplify3D and verify the model has no issues (missing or reversed faces, etc)
  • if above found (occasionally) then fix the shrunk/exploded copy of the model and re-export to STL.

Thanks for the help and the great design. The quad flies smooth with KK2.1.5 and Stevies Firmware.

Love this design. Having some trouble with the anti-vibration top assembly. I'm slicing it with Makerware and printing via a Replicator 2x. Both files usually "hang up" around 59-63% and only occasionally export at all. The top that I did get to export only travels on the Z axis for so long before it stops dropping and backs up the extruder.

I've tried many different configs and settings to no avail. Any suggests from anyone on how to fix this?

Otherwise the files print perfectly. GREAT design. Really stoked to try it out.

Hopefully someone with Makerware/Replicator can help out here

...I use Simplify3D software with a MakerGear M2 printer and am not seeing this problem sorry.

Somehow I fixed my problem! I wish I could tell you the glitch but I'm not sure what I did was the trick or if I was making a mistake on my initial attempts. I use rafts for larger prints as insurance but decided not to on the outside chance it would help. For some reason printing without a raft seems to have helped. I'll post a mock-up picture of the make. Looking great so far!

I am also struggling to print out the anti-vibration top assembly using Makerware with a Makerbot 2. I have successfully printed 4 arms and the body, but both the anti-vibration top plat and the shallow bottom tray are hanging up at ~59% when slicing. I have tried turning off the raft, but that still hasn't helped. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be most welcome!

Nevermind. I just need patience. I left it slicing and came back a few hours later and it had finished printing. (This was with a raft.)

Thank you!!
I will get started on printing this out.