MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


The Tudor Rose Box (with secret lock)

by loubie Jul 27, 2014
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Thank you for this wonderful box. My mom love's puzzle boxes and secret locks - so I printed this in white with red roses - different than the carved wood theme, but excellent all the same.

Help my hinge is too big for the box if i glue it in place it will leave a maxive gap in the box when closed, Iam I missing something?

A great Tudor box. I love it.

Any chance of STEP files? I'd really like to make a very different kind of box but would love to use some of the design elements from yours (with credit).

Hi! I'm not releasing STEP files for the locking boxes at the moment because I plan to launch a Patreon, where folk can contribute so I can release more free work for the community.

One of the starting project "rewards" for my supporters will be a "soup-to-nuts" how to design your own locking box, from plans to building a plain functional locking box (in something like Fusion 360), to adding in the art, all whilst taking into account how to get the best printing results and how to design the model in components optimized for functional and aesthetic requirements. The supporters would of course get the files as well as the instructions.

I realize this isn't much help to you right now, but I hope this helps explain things a bit.

No worries! It's an awesome project and I'm glad you found a way to monetize it. I hope you announce it here or something when the Patreon is up - I'll be interested.

That is very encouraging and certainly will be announcing from the rooftops. If you are interested in my work anyway, you could follow me on Twitter (@loubie_3D). My tweets are primarily about my 3D designs (and sometimes if I've had something nice for dinner or been somewhere interesting) and is the first place I post to. Take care!

I just uploaded a (hopefully) fancy top (with a railing) for this awesome box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2895301

I hope some people find it useful.

Thanks Loubie for a great design!

(Fancy/Railed) Top for Tudor Box

Gorgeous. Left you a tip. Great work, thank you.

Thank you very much indeed!

Still in love with this entire design

This was my first "successful" print and I just love it. I am having a small issue with the roses. The top of every detail is coming out flat. I've tried 6 different settings, changed temp, changed fill, and changed layer height and thickness. Is there anything else I could be doing with the stock XYZ software? Thanks for the design, my wife finally likes the printer!

If you download cura 3.2 (free), you will have a lot more options for slicing. You most likely need to adjust the top/bottom layers. From cura, you can save the model as an STL, then load into XYZ. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the response. I'll definitely try that out.

How does this work to scale it down? I tried making it smaller and some of the pieces didn't quite scale properly (my printer is too small for 100% scale).

This is awesome! What are the inner dimensions of this box? I want to know if I need to scale this model in order to fit 100 sleeved mtg cards.

Need to take 1mm off the height of the catch. I'll upload the one I did if anyone wants it. Fantastic design - I've printed two of these so far, so good.

This is an amazing design. I do have one question tho. The instructions have you attaching the catch to the slider and then inserting it into the box. Is that even possible with the angle involved? Seems like the slider panel would have to be installed and then the catch glued in place. Btw every single part was a perfect fit except the catch is a tad too thick as someone posted earlier. My printer is very well tuned so just thought I would mention it. Keep up the fantastic work!!

Hello there and thank you for your feedback. The main body of the box is open ended at top and bottom. You slide the panel and catch in straight from the bottom (upwards). You would then attach the base afterwards to keep it in place. This box has been made a few times, so I assure you this works:-)

If you want to correct the issue with the catch and upload it as a derivation/fix then please feel free.

Glad you enjoy the model!

Wow I totally missed that lol Thanks for the quick response!

My wife asked me to print this tudor box for her. Ofc I wanted to double it's size it. I can report that all files as designed double size ok, except the base.stl
I know it wasn't designed to be printed larger but I tried it anyway. Here's a time lapse of a some rose's and front panel thicker vines up sized.

Thanks alot! The most useful object we can print everyday are boxes and containers.But since we are using high tech devices, its just right the we print boxes with artistic and intricate designs. Again, many thanks to you.

This is a great model! one suggestion...the body should have the inner walls extended a little higher so that it locks the lid in place. This will prolong the life of the hinge and prevent any wobble while it is locked.

How do I need to orient the box body to print without supports. seems there is horizontal overhangs everywhere?

It is already in place. Just use plenty of cooling. Most of the overhangs are actually angled or are handled with bridging.

Tried that and it worked a charm, thanks :)

Note for those with a printer without the firmware fix for mirror. I printed as is and mine slides to the left to open and the latch is opposite than shown.
I wanted to do out of PLA wood filament but I lots of issues with filament breaking, so I did out of ABS white, still looks outstanding. Thanks for sharing this.

This is simply outstanding. Very good work indeed!

I'm taken back by the beauty of this design! KUDOS

Thank you Loubie, this model is really awesome!.

Will the hinge still work if scaled up? Was going to print all parts at 200% size.

There is someone who printed it 500% and didn't have any problems, so you should be okay. I personally have only ever printed it at 100%.

Good luck!

great little box really pleased with outcome the hinge worked perfect

what are the inner dimensions?

Would it be possible for me to resize this to be larger? I'm looking to make a deck box for cards for my little brother's birthday! I am assuming I can't just scale things straight up since certain ratios would probably need to be maintained...

Scaling up partially (i.e on one or two axis rather than all three) will lead the shapes and patterns on the box to become distorted and may cause problems with the hinge piece. Scaling up completely does work well however. One person printed a 3 ft tall version.

Wonderful! Thank you very much, Loubie!

vraiment magnifique
ça me donne envie de faire une boite à secret !
très bon travail.
félicitations, respect

making two now for my kids to paint and use. great design. thanks

Thank you! Please post pictures when your kids have finished their customization, I'd love to see their work.

holy sh.... this looks awesome! i'm printing it right now. my mom's birthday is this weekend, and she'll get a special pendant for that. this thing is the best "present box" i could imagine! I'm sure, she will love the box as much as the pendant itself!!! As I am printing this I'm figuring out how the lock is turned.... With screws? some "hidden" thing i missed? please give me some hint on how to get the lock to turn the right way, so i can manage to get this insane thing to work =D


The documentation explains the mechanism and assembly. The lock is simply a sliding panel at the front which hooks onto a catch on the lid and "locks" the box.

Good luck with the make and I hope your mum likes it.

i feel so stupid now.... i can't see the part on where to drill the hole, or is there no drilling needed? just finished printing out the front panel (where the moving rose fits in) and there is nothing i logically put on the moving parts. ATM i don't "see" the assembling of this.... maybe its to late here (in germany) and my brain went just at sleep... but right now, I think i have to connect the rose through the front panel and body to the "catch.stl" to get all moving.... so, whats the connector!? I can't see a screw in all the pictures... so confused right now......... how do they connect?

You don't need to drill anything or use screws. You just need glue. It's all explained here:


This has pictures to follow along with the text. Good luck!

Hehe! I know that seller personally, so it's okay and we talked came to an agreement ages ago. He printed my Tudor Rose Box scaled and it took 23KG of filament!!!!

Thanks for the heads up though. I appreciate that people are looking out for me.

nice can make Pandora's box to

This design is a true work of art! I just built one with the addition to the lid, and it looks great! Thanks very much for the design!

Thank you very much and I love your make.

Do you think wood filament will work on this?

Check out the makes for this model. Many have used wood based filaments successfully.

Awesome! Your model has been chosen as one of the Top 3D Printed Christmas / Holiday Models this year. Search "Top Free 3D Printed Christmas Gift 2015 Printing Ninja" to see. (sorry thingiverse bans url addresses)

Any tips on printing the hinged? Ive tried a few thing .2height slow .1 height slow. Ive never had problems before printing parts like this but having a hella time with this one and it the last piece!! I always measure my filament. Thanks

I avoid the fumes of acetone by using Fructis brand hair spray on my heatbed. For each new build I rough the old sprayed surface with a straight edge utility blade and add a quick spray to refresh the surface. I can do over a dozen builds before having to wash it off with water. Builds pop right off after they have cooled. I keep my bed at 100 C.

With which type of filament?

I work mostly in ABS but have a couple odd colors in PLA. Both seem to stick real strong to the heated bed (which is covered with a 12 inch mirror tile). Once it cools below 40c each comes off easy.

Comments deleted.

From my experience, hairspray works well with PLA on cold or warm beds. Fro ABS, you'll need something like Elmer's glue and a heated bed.

Amazing design, this is actually something I'll print as soon as I get the chance! Quick question tho... what is the printing time of all?


Print time is going to depend on your printer/layer height/infill etc... I know on my Ordbot printing 100% scale with an infill of 15% and a layer height of .2 the whole model took roughly 10-12 hours.

Wow 10-12 hours!!! I'm assuming each part would be less than 5 hours? I'm still not comfortable printing for more than 5 hours on my new replicator 2x with ABS.... they seem to unstick after 5 hours regardless of whatever I put on the printing bed...

But I love this for sure Will print as soon as I can!

I use fine settings and a lot of stuff I print is 12 hrs. The box on this was over 6 hrs but I used 100% fill and .15 layers. I use ABS and found that putting down the wide blue painters tape, then roughing it up with 3M P220 sand paper (sometimes I just use wire brush), then wiping down with acetone makes parts stick like crazy (no more glue).

Now I want to see this beautiful make - post pictures:-)

Try double sided sticky tape to help objects stick to the bed, works a treat for me

LOL! That's the whole model as in all the pieces as a combined time - not each piece:-). The bed on my my Ordbot isn't large enough to print all the pieces of this model at once, so I had to separate them into "lots". In any case, as I said before, print times are so printer and slicer setting specific that generic answers are generally not that useful.

If you want to work out how long things are going to take then slice the models and your print software should give you a good estimate of the times. You can then decide to proceed with the print or add/remove parts for a time you feel comfortable with. I was very nervous when I got my first printer - now I'l quite happily leave something printing for 24 hours. Mind you, that is with PLA - I hate the smell of ABS so rarely use it.

ABS is a pig to get to stick to anything. I find a heated bed and Elmers glue works well.

Good luck with your prints and I am very happy you like my model.

Thanks for the hints... its not really my first printer, I was quite comfortable printing with my first Replicator 2 with PLA... but PLA as you mentioned is much easier to print with...

I'll check out the Elmers glue for sure, I am currently trying techniques such as (obviously) the heated bed with blue painters tape and spraying acetone just before the extruder starts printing...

Its working well so far, but I've only printed objects 2 hours or less... nothing above that...


I know I'm really late to this conversation, but if you want ABS to stick to a build plate, dissolve some abs in acetone and paint it on to the print bed. This will hold but be careful a little goes along way and may have enough grip to pull up kapton tape so be careful if you use kapton tape. This also works only with heated beds as far as I'm aware.

Thanks, I got that working a while ago, but a question for you, what is, to your preference the best concentration of abs:acetone? I find that it's a lot of acetone to little abs... Like 10:1 or 8:1

I've found that the less abs the better, you really just need a thin layer of abs after the acetone evaporates off, if you have too much you break projects getting them off the print bed and more sanding to clean up the bottom sides.

And if you multi purpose the solution, it works best as glue and to smooth things when its viscosity is low, which you can get when you have only a little amount of ABS.

This is quite lovely. Now that my Rep2's back in working order, I think my fiancée deserves one of these.
She loves ornate boxes.

I hope she likes it and good luck with the print.

One of my favorite prints on thingiverse. Absolutely gorgeous.
Can't wait until I get my bronzefill and print and polish this beauty up! :)

A quick question - what kind of 3D software you used to design this nice box?
Tomorrow I'm getting my MakerBot Replicator 2 and I'll try this box as my first 3D print project.

I used Solidworks for everything except the rose which I sculpted in Maya. Good luck with the print.

I just printed this out and assembled it. It's gorgeous. Thanks so much for your design!

Thank you and I am glad you like it. Please post pictures of your make though.

This is absolutely gorgeous. Kudos on the great design this is the kind of thing that sparked my newfound passion for 3d printing

Why - thank you:-) Another secret lock box is in the works but it has a different historical theme....

I love the way it slides to open up... wish I thought about that in my design.
Very cool.

I love puzzle boxes. I love pretty things too, but I like them to do something other than just look nice. It's part of the reason I like to build models that don't need supports - it adds to the challenge. Why not re-make your box using the basic mechanism I use? Not quite sure how you would handle those pretty feet you have on your, but I think it could be done.

I wanted to know where you looked/learned to make your hinge. I want to make a similar one for a project.

To be honest, I taught myself. I started by buying some cheap hinges, taking them apart and looking at them but I didn't want to use something with a wire down the middle. My original design had the hinges printed in two pieces which would then snap together, but I found that hard on my hands and I was worried that some other users would have the same issue - so I abandoned that idea

If you want to know what I did, the best thing to do would be to slice my hinge model and then scroll through the layers. You'll be able to see the shapes I used clearly and is much better than any written explanation. The trick is to have two pieces that fit together but don't touch. whilst printing. You need a round shape that will allow rotation. I used a cone shape which tapers at a 45 degree angle with a blunt top.

The other option is to use something like the customizable hinge that Mathgrrl just released. Good luck.

machine en panne. début avec pla je pense que j'ai imprimé avec T° trop forte. je doit imprimer la fleur avec le mécanisme pour les dimensions. après je pourrait modéliser la rose des vents sur inventor mais dés que se sera fait je t"envois tout.

merci, en cour d'impression...et dés que ce sera fini je modélise une rose des vents d'époque à la place des fleurs. je renvois tout dés que possible.

You will replace the roses with an antique compass face? That sounds like a very interesting idea and I look forward to seeing it.

WOW! Very well done.

I printed it on my Ultimaker Original using Cura as a slicer at 100 micron. Turned out really well.

The only issue I had was with the hinge. It seemed to put a-lot of pressure on the glued surfaces to hold the lid open. I am not sure if it was my slicer or not. :)

Thank you very much for making this design available for us to print!

Thanks! The hinge was more me proving to myself that it could be printed in one piece (I kept snapping the tests I made in two parts when fitting them together). The design could do with some tweaking. However, I do find that using concrete strength plastic glue tends to sort any potential separation:-)

Glad you like the design.

Hi all,

This design looks stunning,
Has anyone done this on a Makerbot Replicator 2 - I was just wondering what settings I need to use


Wonderful and inspiring!
Thanks for sharing.

Seems like there is another one of these called AMIE2. Just saying.

I really can't see the point of what that person has done. Thanks for letting me know.

Comments deleted.

Very nice Job. Well thought out. Everything printed and fit well.

Excellent - glad to hear it and thank you for posting your print.

I have printed one of these in gold PLA at .2mm (200 microns) and it came out very nice. The hinge works perfectly as does the catch. I have downloaded the upgraded version and am presently printing it a .2mm with black PLA. The slider is printing at this time and the remade vines look great. Next is to print it at 100 microns (.1mm layer height). Very nice, wish I could design like this.


Thanks for your kind words.

I feel a bit silly not checking my original model with a full range of slicers - I should know better. Fortunately, some people from the Reprap community (including my other half:-)) pointed out the problem and I was able to work out a fix reasonably quickly and publish it. Others from the wider community either didn't notice or have been too polite to say anything.

I think the key to a successful design (beyond having the idea) is mapping out as much in advance as you can and carefully planning each step and following them. Particularly with assemblies, it is very easy to get "lost" and end up with problems.

I am documenting the design process for my next model and will publish that in my blog. I'll put a link to it in the description when I eventually publish.

Thank you - very pretty and I am glad your wife liked it.

Comments deleted.

I am currently making one but it seems the catch is a little too thick to fit in the grove of the body. Its fits very tight so I made it 4.6 mm thick and it seems to do the trick. Just thought you should know.

Have you checked you are not over extruding your filament? Although filament can be advertised as 1.75/3mm, the truth is that it often varies and measuring filament diameter with a pair of calipers will yield a more accurate number which should be used in your profile for that particular filament.

I've printed this model with a range of filaments and have no issue with the fittings - the catch is supposed to be snug although not impossible to fit or move.

I just printed it in brown ABS, and it came out beautifully. I also got some of the odd bridging on the roses--I think there must be an errant surface in the STL.

Did you take pictures of the bridging? If so, I would like to see them.

Which rose file did you use? I uploaded an addiitonal version yesterday which should slice better.

I printed the older version. The new file wasn't posted when I printed the roses.

This is awesome. We have to little ornature today. So this brings a smile to my face. :D

Thank you. I plan to do more themed puzzle objects. I don't see why things can't be interesting and pretty.


Your talents are expressed well in this design. I'm a minimalist in that I attempt to accomplish a design in the least amount of print time and PLA.

You've convinced me with this design I'm taking the wrong approach.

Again, an absolutely stunning design. Unbelievable, congratulations!

Oh and your automata are fabulous and something I am working towards (or trying to). Automata are a passion of mine: I really like the examples you see from 18th and 19th centuries - very clever designs and artistically beautiful as well. I think if you can create a story around a mechanism through presentation, then people start to project their own ideas on it and it makes the model more complete. The Tudor Rose box started out as a very plain box with a sliding mechanism and a hinge which prints assembled. Once I had the "working parts" functioning, I then went on to develop the art. With that, I think it becomes more than just a locking box. Of course, sometimes you change the mechanisms to suit the art and the idea.

I would like to progress to moving dioramas...one day..:-) Thank you for commenting and posting your excellent work.

Many thanks.

Comments deleted.

very good and beautyful.thankyou

Thank you.

WOW! Beautiful! Great job!

spectacular, loubie.

Best kind of feedback:-)

someone needs to print this in laywood

It would be interesting to see the results, I agree. Personally though, I think wood coloured filament works well because it incorporates a sheen which mimics the heavy varnishing seen on Tudor wood carving.

I'm almost done printing this now. The only problem so far is with the roses the inner small sections seem to be bridging for some reason. But only on 3 of the 5. It's strange I can post a photo if you'd like to see it. I think I can cut the web off and be fine for now.

Yes, please do. You've not had any problem with the hinge?

Everything else has fit together perfect and I'm using ABS plastic and printed most of it at .25 layer height. The roses I've been printing at .20 layer height to try and get better detail.

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about. I used my thumbnail and pushed in the one on the right side. They were pretty easy to remove with an exacto knife. Also I'm using skeinforge 50 and ReplicatorG to print these on my Thing-O-matic with sailfish firmware.

I haven't tried to slice it using Skeinforge. I've used Slic3r and KISS - both which had different ways of handling the petals. Translating a Tudor rose to 3D is interesting because they are generally only seen in 2D. The petals, while very flat are still curved up and slightly over at the tip - which is what gives them their characteristic look. It took me a while to get this looking right in Maya (although you could use Blender too), but they are an odd shape for anything to slice and print. As an experiment, why not try a different slicer with a single rose? If you do, I'd be interested to see the results.

Your final result with the box looks great and I am very happy to see my model is printable for others (it's always a concern, no matter how much I test:-))

Thanks for the feedback.

Wow! So beautiful! I hope I'm able enough to print one.

It is designed to print without supports. Just be sure to measure the diameter if your filament carefully so you don't get problems with the hinge.

Good luck.

Wow wow wow! This is some beautiful work! I'll be putting this in the print queue. Well done!

Heh - if you do get time to print one, I would love to see what paint job you could do with it. Thanks for the feedback.

Absolutely (I will paint one), and congrats on the feature!

This is definitely going on my to-do list. Great work!