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4d-Staunton Full Size Chess Set

by PerryT Jan 7, 2013
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This is very cool. I would like to request that the bottom layers are simpler and just print around instead of half circles and crossing boundaries. Thanks!

What size is the largest single part? (to know if my printer is big enough)

hello ... can you post archives for de box?....please

Where can I find the files for the box to store the pieces?

Comments deleted.

queen doesn't print properly, layer 311 is too far from the rest of the piece and the extrusion will fall, with Slic3r this is visible in the preview (and i've also tried to print a queen with the mentioned issue in these 2 layers)

probably, two more layers are needed between 310 and 311. I've attached an image from the slic3r preview
It's not a cooling issue, the nozzle is off the piece when doing layer 311

The layers should be created with your native software. Try increasing your resolution.
I print at the max resolution my software will generate the layers and it prints GREAT and smooth with no issues.
I can also send you the actual part in a step, iges or any other 3d format you would like.
give me your email address and i will send it right along if that will help.
Thank you for reaching out.

Can you upload the 3d files ? I would like to try to change the king basement

Thanks for the proposal to send me the cad files but i don't have modelling skills. Can't you make an alternative king with the same basement as as other pieces, just to keep everything uniform and similiar to the original staunton chess?

hey perry, are you still here ?

I've also find another strangeness. King and Queen seems to be from 2 different model-set.
the king basement is different from any other basement of this chess set.

it's much "higher" than any other and is not a scaling issue, even in the linked photo you can see the difference.
Look at this (very) expensive chess set: https://bit.ly/2TyVrBl queen and king have both the same identical basement.

It is quite intentional. Just my own interpretation of the traditional chess set.
It is not strangeness... well.... other than the way i see things in my mind... LOL

With 0.16 seems to print properly. What is really strange is that with Cura, there are more layers than with Slic3r PE. Where I see a "missing" layer in Slic3r, Cura has one and thus there are no holes or huge overhanges between layers. Very very strange.

Anyway, thank you so much for this great chess set.

Knight must be printed with supports ?

Has anyone printed this at 240%? I'm tempted to do so but was wondering on the best setting used on an ender 3.

Thanks in advance.

I am having some problems printing the pieces, when I printed some pawns they came out kind of in an oval instead of a perfect circle, it is kind of squished. I am using an ender 3 with ultimaker cura, I don’t know if the problem is in my printer, my slicer or simplily the design is just like that.

Thank you for your help.

The pieces are completely symmetrical so your issue looks like a software problem when posting the code. Try playing around with your settings and you may get different results. I would imagine you have seen this issue with other parts also. Something is sloppy in there. Trust me, the pieces are "Round"... :)

Thank you so much for sharing this! I have been experimenting for a while trying to get my 3D Printer settings just right using the King scaled up to 150%. Even though I had problems with overhangs because of bad cooling the piece is still a beautiful design. I have enhanced my cooling with a better fan duct also from ThingiVerse, and I am having another go now at the King at 100%. Thank you again. Lastly, have you ever sold your chess set, and do you allow others to sell prints of it?

NO i have never sold any prints of any of my designs.
I have printed things for hire for people but it is always their designs or their clients original material.
I have no problems with people printing and selling my designs so long as they give me credit for designing it.
There is nothing wrong with selling you printing services, there is something wrong with taking credit for designs you didn't create.
And having said that, My chess set is not my original design. I created the solids from a traditional chess set my father had when i was a little boy. I did it from memory and pictures i had. The design of the chess board on the other hand is 100% my own creation.
Nobody at the time had put up a design of a traditional set... so i shared mine. I am very glad you like it. Post pics when you are through.

I've downloaded the files, I'm in the process of printing. I grouped 8 pawns together to cut down on the print jobs. Also I have increased the size of scale to 125%. I'm printing multiple sizes of squares to see which one will work the best.

Awesome... please post some pics when finished. I love to see what people do with my designs.
I never thought there would be such a need to scale "UP"... i have printed 100% & 75%... never gone more than 100....

Comments deleted.

Thank you for sharing this project. It looks very cool and I'm going to give it a shot. This will be my first big project. What print settings do you recommend for printing this with PLA?

it is a big one.... I have printed several complete sets and boards ... they make great gifts which is why i designed it in the first place.

Great design !

I'm finishing the last parts of a 200% version which is almost 1sq. meter large, to put in front of the classroom and teach my elementary students how to play.

I just added little caps underneath each piece, with a magnet, as well as a magnet under each square.

Printed in PLA and glued with hot glue.

Thanks !

I would love to see this... please post some pics with your students playing with them.

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buenos Días, podrías subir los archivos pero que no pesen tanto? (recomendación por abajo de los 20mb)...porque no puedo abrirlo. gracias

Would you recommend printing one piece at a time or could I print multiple pieces in a single build? Pro's and Con's please. I was thinking of doing 8 pawns in one build. Rooks, knights and bishops in a build and 2 queens plus a king in a build, then change colors and do the same again.

It's been quite a while since i printed any of these parts but if my memory is correct the most i ever printed at a single time was 4 Pawns. The the pairs for the rest. King/Queen, Bishops, Knights, Rooks for each color.
But it is up to you. Whatever your experience with your printer tells you to do.

I have had luck printing rooks, knights and bishops together and the four square tiles file prints out great. I printed four pawns in one build and that worked out good. I did not want to risk printing our eight pawns in a build because I found out the hard way that if one comes lose from the build plate in can destroy the entire build.

Good luck, I know that my reply is late to your post but I have just recently joined the community, maybe my reply might assist someone else. There are some really great projects out here. Being a chess fan this was one of the first things that I searched for. I just love the traditional look of this set. My hats off to the designer. I am an Alabama fan so I am currently in the middle of printing out my Red and White set. I will post pictures as soon as I am finished.

I just bought a QUIDI TECH X-Pro so this is my first major build. I am having problems with the left extruder when I switched to white so I had to feed the white into the right extrude to work on finishing my build. This is something that I am going to have to work out with the manufacturer.

If you are willing to put in the time this is a great project. I look forward to playing many games with this set

Hi, I notice your board is in 2 parts, does it clip together firmly & is it rigid enough?, is it screwed to a board. Nearly printed pieces, will be starting on board shortly

Great concept, but way too tight for PLA.

I printed with PLA, and it worked great. You just have to apply a little pressure to get the jigsaw puzzles pieces (the board) to snap together.

tap them together with a hammer if needed. :)

They are designed to be tight. "Very Tight"
My original idea while i was designing the board was to have the entire thing "snap" together.
It worked but i later just solvent welded the entire thing into two sections. It just made it easier to move around.
I hope this helps.

Are all the holes in the bottoms of the pieces all same size? Great design, thank you.

No, they are proportional to the diameter of the piece.
I mixed lead shot and hot glue and filled mine then put a piece of felt on the bottom. I didn't weigh out anything i just wanted the pieces to be stable while playing and feel more substantive instead of hollow plastic.

wow !!
nice job making this

Printing now on a Replicator. Coming out really well.

Anybody have ideas on how to weight the pieces?

I mixed lead shot and hot glue and filled mine then put a piece of felt on the bottom. I didn't weigh out anything i just wanted the pieces to be stable while playing and feel more substantive instead of hollow plastic.

do you have any pictures of this? what kind of epoxy?

I didn't take pictures.
I used Hot glue & lead shot if my memory is correct. I then bonded a piece of felt to the bottom of each piece.
If i ever do any more i will take pics. I'm sorry i didn't.
Whatever you do i am sure it will be good. Just be creative, if you have a 3D printer than i know you are!

I ended up filling the bottom with iron fillings with epoxy over it.. give it the perfect weight

Just wanted to say "Thanks". I really liked printing this set. For anybody that does not need full size, scaling to 64% is about the same size as an Analysis set (2.5" king). Also scaling to 74% is perfect for a 1.5" squares board (~3" king). I will post pictures under "Made" when I have both sides fully printed

i cant get the Pieces to fit??

Are you referring to the base for the board?

Great projekt but having issues during the print, bending corners etc

I am running into issues with the Chess Board Corner Pieces not staying flat and they are actually bending upward at the corners as they are made/cool. Did you ever run into this problem?
Can you think of anything I should try or settings I should change to hopefully avoid this problem?



I would try printing on a raft or applying blue painters tape onto the print surface.
Also may cool your bed down, and slow the print down.

Very very cool! I'm looking forward to getting around to printing a micro chess set (I'm hoping for maybe 12-14in sides of the board) Any idea how I could scale it to acheive that? Thanks, and thanks for the great model. One of the few to include a board.

Do you use supports for printing the knight???

NO... i do not use supports.. and i designed the piece to not need support... although sometimes the knight might have a little chin hair... lol
it will print fine without support.. but go ahead and use it if you like...

I ran into the chin hair issue. Very easy to fix with a sharp knife of a Dremel tool. I just love this set. Or just leave it there for a bearded pony. Just kidding.


I've moved onto printing the bed and I've found that the tolerance between the locking tabs is incredibly tight. This requires me to have to file each piece so the tabs can connect. Are you willing to reduce the tolerance a little (+.1 or .2 maybe) between the tabs so they're not quite so tight.

I'm printing with a DaVinci 1.0 at a .2 resolution. The heated bed adds a little lip to the bottom of each piece which contributes to the issue as well.

Thank you.

i am very sorry for the long delay in writing a reply to this message.... a lot going on in my life.
the frame for the board is designed to be "VERY" tight.... use a hammer to put the peaces together if you have to... my fingers hurt like crazy after i assemble one.... i designed it to be a one time permanent assembly.....
you can file down the pieces a little if you want a lose fit..... hope you enjoy the design... i loved creating it.

I just made the Rook and I can't believe how good it turned out. Wow. I'm pretty excited to make the whole set now. I'm going to be using "natural" filament for one side because it approximates ivory so well.

Thank you for such an awesome project!

Update: My printer (DaVinci 1.0) doesn't do overhangs well so I've had to use support on some pieces. They print extremely well though.

Thank you for the compliment.... i designed this entire set and box for my father as a gift.
I liked it so much, that i printed one for myself and then put it up on Thingiverse so everyone can have with it.

I'm into this project. White King, Queen, Bishop, Knight, both Rooks, 5 Pawns. I made a time lapse of a Rook printing. http://youtu.be/YkO6C_U8j8A Thanks again for the models.

I printed out the king and knight at 100 microns on my Rep 2. Very nice. Sadly the sd card had a glitch when the cross was being printed on the king, so only half a cross was printed.
I assume the hollow area under the piece is for weighting it. Any suggestions on what to use for weight? Clay, lead weights, etc?

Sorry, answered my own question in the instructions. Doh!

Thanx for uploading your PRO design! I changed the original chess pieces but the board is sick!
Thanks again!!

ok I struggled with this one to get a clean print, kept getting holes in the tops of the pieces, after some experimenting here are the settings I used

the pieces

material: PLA

Layer: 0.1mm

Shells : 3

Infill : 30%

Extruder temp: 195 degrees C

Bed Temp : 80 Degrees C

Speed while extruding: 60 mm/s

Speed while traveling 150 mm/s


material: PLA

Layer: 0.1mm

Shells : 4

Infill : 40%

Extruder temp: 195 degrees C

Bed Temp : 80 Degrees C

Speed while extruding: 60 mm/s

Speed while traveling 150 mm/s

oh and I am using a Wanhao Dupicator 4 with duel extruders and ReplicatorG

Where are the files for the box for the pieces?

I designed the box after i uploaded my original Chess set design that is why they are not all together. I could have added it... maybe i will in the future.... Here is the link to download the box... Hope you enjoy!


4d-Staunton Full Size Chess Set Box
by PerryT

NO.... i have not received anything.... i went through my junk mail too.
try this.


a lot of people type .com out of habbit... make sure it is .net

Hi PerryT, this is quite an awesome design. I am using a solidoodle instead and I have printed the rook and queen as my first two test piece at 1.5 resolution (about 3hours 15min for the queen =p) however I printed them with support material and I'm having difficulty getting a smooth finish due to stubs after removing the support material. Do you have any suggestion on how I can smooth the surface?

they are uploaded in very high resolutions... hence the file sizes... its funny, some have complained about that.
just print WITHOUT support and you should be fine. I can put out some ULTRA hight res stl's if you would like but what i have uploaded is almost as smooth as glass.

Sorry I don't quite understand what you mean by high res stl's. Most of the stl's I have worked with are converted from autocad inventor (.ipt) after which I slice them using Slic3r. My understanding of resolution is the slicing settings for layer height in Slic3r. Do you mean that the resolution is infact controlled by the stl format instead?

Sorry I meant I am using Autodesk Inventor. I've checked the STL exporting for Inventor, there is a high res, mid res and low res. Can I check what settings are you using for your high res configuration if you are using Inventor? Also can I check with you your settings for the perimeter speed in Slic3r? Thanks for your help =)

Partially yes…..

Your slicing engine can only do as good as the facet resolution in the
stl file you have. There are editors out there…. It is easy to go down… hard to go UP…

That is why I put my files up at the highest resolution that is
practical for download. People can knock it down as they see fit.

If you slice up a shitty apple… you have a shitty sliced apple…. I put out as good of apples as I can.

And I do get blamed when the slicer is shitty…. But I can only do my best….

Send me a email so i have your address and i will reply with two files as demos to show you exactly what i am talking about.


Hi Perry, I've sent you an email. Did you get it?

NO.... i have not received anything.... i went through my junk mail too.
try this.


a lot of people type .com out of habbit... make sure it is .net

Hi Perry, I've sent you another email and I have double checked that I keyed in your email correctly but I do not think you have received it as I did not get a reply, I'm not sure why. My email is mentalfaith@gmail.com maybe you can email me instead thank you.

Perry, thanks for sharing such an awesome creation!
I have printed most of the pieces now and they all look awesome!
Now though i am experiencing a bit of a problem with the board, every time I print one of the squares on my Mbot Rep2 it prints missing many of the sides of the hexagonal pattern on the top, any idea why this would happen? I have tried just about everything I can think of to get an accurate print (changing temp, speed extruding/travelling, slicer, infill, shells) and every print results with the same missing bits, I am beginning to believe it a problem with either the x3g file created or the interpretation of the x3g file by the Mbot Rep2..

You are very welcome. I am sorry that you are having problems.
If you can send me a picture of exactly what you are talking about i may be able get recommend something.
do NOT use the Accelerated default print settings..... it will mess up any really fine detail in models. (honeycomb patterns) I do not like it and don't use it at all.
for me it doesn't work. That is my first guess on what is causing your problem, but send me a pic if you can.

What do you mean by "Accelerated default print settings"? I am using MakerWare Make with Standard settings.
I have tried slowing (by about 20) the Extruding and Travelling speeds but that did not effect the print.
I also tried Low/standard/High resolution with no luck their either

I didn't realize you are using the updated software for your printer. I'm sorry.
I am at a loss to explain why you are having problems.... i have literally printed hundreds of the blocks without a single problem.... i can design something for you that might fix the problem if i can see what you are talking about... please send me a pic if you can.

Did you receive my email?

The new tile/block you supplied me with prints perfectly!! Thanks for your help!!

You're welcome!

I'm having the same issues with the base squares not printing properly. Can you possibly supply me the same file? Thanks!

First - thanks for all the great work you did on these pieces! Second, I am a teacher at a High School that just did very well for itself in its first year of competing - winning State Champs for our division (AA). We have a MakerBot at school, and so I wanted to make a special "Wasatch Academy" set to perhaps give to the #1 Chess player each year (and a set for myself, naturally...). So, I am trying to use Sketchup 8 to put a Tiger's head (our mascot) on the Knight instead of the traditional horse. I have a rough tiger head, and I have imported and scaled it to match the simplified version JulienM made (Thanks to Julien as well!), but then I am in way over my head. I have no idea how to disassemble the horse head and put the tiger head in its place.


First - you are welcome! :)

Second: I am not sure exactly what you have. I will help all i can. if you can send me the 3D model of the tigers head in a iges or step file i can put it on the knight for you and send you a high res stl....I will do my best to help.

send it to PerryT@4dCadCam.com

Turned out Awesome once I figured out MY issues. Live and learn. Great Design and it is tremendous that you are sharing this with the community.

I love this, however when I went to print the corners today I ended up cleaning up a lot of broken bits when printing at high speed. It seems the logo, was messing with me. I think you should keep it there, don't get me wrong you did all the major work...but can you print it on a raised piece of the board. Or can I invert the part to make it print better? Any advice? I'm still figuring this out only a few hundred hours with this printer.

do not use high speed printing... i tried myself and have had nothing but problems..... the parts i export are very hi res.... hence their size. just use standard settings and don't try to rush it and it will print fine. I have printed many complete boards without a single scrapped section. once you get a system down that works... don't mess with it!... that is the best advice i have.... and of course..."don't rush it"... anything worth having is worth waiting for! :)

BTW, the finished product turned out fine, it was about 5 minutes of tenuous moments at the beginning with the tweezers and the putty knife. Awesome design!

Hi Perry, this looks perfect! I've been looking for something like this! I'm new to this whole world, could you please let me know the dimensions of the king and pawn? Height and base diameter? Thanks!

I tried to stay as close as possible to a traditional full size Staunton set.
i deviated where i thought it looked better and printed easier.

Pawn: 1.95" tall
1.125" dia base.

King: 3.975" tall
1.6" dia base.

they shrink a little while printing that is why the height is a little off the round numbers.
Hope you enjoy the set.
I am currently printing a 3/4 scale set and it really looks great.

I am remixing the heck out of this. Awesome.

Thank you Mike.
I love your design... very nice. I think my base would work great with the squares. AWESOME.

Thanks Perry! I will be remixing your design for the base with curves instead of hard angles, I think it will match my set a little better. Also I have linked you set in my thing so people can print out your base if they want before I have remixed it. I plan on printing you set after I get mine done. It's taking a helluva long time to print :) Thanks again!

I put the full description in the derivative.

"Quadric Edge Collapse Decimation" in MeshLab seems to be much better than the export settings in a lot of programs.

The image is a comparison of the Knight, before and after. I doubt any normal printer would produce different results between the two files, for a 50x decrease in file size,

Basically I just wanted to offer an alternative, for those who have problems with such large files.

Thank you... i downloaded the knight and did a direct comparison of my original and it looks awesome considering how much smaller the file is. personally i don't care about file size and i don't have issues with them, i am looking for quality but if i can have both... its a win win.. and it definitely makes it easier for anyone who downloads the files. i appreciate the help and advice. It is VERY welcome. I am an engineer and have been designing crap all my life, but i am new to 3D printing, i'm still learning. Thanks again. :)

What are you doing to simplify the parts so that the file size is smaller? And how does it effect the slicing and quality of the finished part? I have played around with the stl's when i export and noticed that the higher resolution i use, the better the quality of the part. I like to keep the faceting sizes as small as possible and still maintain a reasonable part file size. It just bugs me seeing flat areas on a sphere or curved surface...

Pawn and King are scaled properly now.

Sorry about the scaling problem.... i edited a couple of the pieces and forgot.... i was in a hurry to get them up before i went to bed last night... :) I will fix them and correct the files.

Nice pieces. These could be good for casting as well.

I think the King and the Pawn are in inches, whereas the other pieces are in mm. I re-uploaded all the pieces simplified, to reduce the overall filesize in order to facilitate slicing.

Brilliant! This is going to have to be my first serious print after I receive my white filament :)

I have white and i think natural looks a little better. Post some pics when you print and let us see how it comes out!

Very nice. Probably the first awesome printable board I have seen :)

Thank you. I wanted to make it look like a high end hand made hardwood board.