After enjoying my stock HEVO's for some time I decided to do a upgrade of the hotend mount. A good hotend drives a lot of improvements.
- Hotend is too far away from the x-rods
- Could causes additional flex and movement on the hotend.
- Requires the print bed to be moved forward to get max print volume
- Hotend is as close as possible to the x-rods
- Printbed can be moved further back less cramped up front.
- Installing the X-min endstop requires soldering
- Requires customization of the the optical switch (removal of connector, etc)
- No modification to the optical end-stop is needed.
- X-Max end-stop was removed
- Inductive probe moves around when hotend is removed
- Inductive probe need needs to be calibrated after work is performed
- Probe has it's own mounting system and maintains fixed during hotend maintenance.
- Cooling fan is blowing on hotend
- Need to direct air stream onto intended area
- If there is a print issue it can melt the air duct
- Leverages the "TUSK" technology to direct air to the intended area
- Uses stock 30mm cooling fan
- May experience heat creep up the heat break and cause blockages
- 40mm fan mount is integrated in the design.
- Uses a shroud to prevent air back flow onto the print bed (don't skip this)
Stuff you need
You will need several M3 screws and nuts.
You will need four (4) brass inserts (sorry)
You will need a pack of 5/32" brass tubing (hobby lobby $5)
I recommend buying the tube benders from hobby lobby as well $5
Stuff to consider:
- Brass is hard to bend. If you want it to be easier, go with aluminium tubing.
- Brass looks cooler.
- I had a BLTouch version, but the inductive probe is more accurate.
- Set the height of the hotend up about 10mm, so you get another 10mm in print height.
- use a squirrel fan to drive a tube to avoid the weight on x-carriage
- skinny the x carriage to get another 10mm back on the x-axis.