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BLV Ender 3 Pro - Upgrade

by BLV Dec 1, 2019
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Thought I would post this video for the curious, this is my BLV Ender 3 Pro doing sensorless homing, and probing Z with a BLTouch. So it has no physical endstop switches at all:


Mobil Vactra 2 is the best oil going for linear rails. Its used as way oil on lathes and performs excellently in linear rails. It doesnt dry out or get sticky, yet stays on the rails and bearings.
I replaced the balls in my bearing blocks with high grade balls of known quality as soon as I received them and lubricated them with Vactra 2. I add a few drops every week or two as needed. I have over 1000 hours of print time on these rails and they are as smooth as the day I assembled them.


thanks for the upgrade.

I wonder if there is a directdrive upgrade available or planned for the future ?

If you scroll down, Ben recommends the Trianglelabs DD kit. I'm using a printable one that is a very similar design.

There is problem with stiffnes of X axis which I found while moving it in Z axis. End without motor is not moving like other end. Moreover leveling X axis is a problem too. This end can be lower or higher then opposite end.
Maybe 3 point mount of X axis at both ends will fix the problem?

Lol, Cost more than what I paid for the whole printer. No thanks!

It cost a bit less if you are going on the clone rails.
also, mind that it will perform much better than any printer in this price range.

Is this white lithium grease ok to use on the Hiwin rails? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBNV58/

Yes, i think it's suitable.

Thanks Ben! :)

Does X carrige plate is compatible with E3D V6? I already have this mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 and I wonder can I use it.

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6 mount Volcano 5015 ABL
by chito

I haven't used that one specifically, but I've used two others and just drilled 6mm holes as Ben mentioned for the Trianglelabs kit, using the printed out template he made. Hope this helps.

I have built my printer and the parts fit good. But i have an advice to remodel T-nut holes on Z-brackets. Rotate mount holes 90° so you can better adjust its position.

In the description you mention the dual Z 1 stepper (belt system) is your favourite setup, however you also mention dual Z 2 steppers is the recommanded option for this setup. I was thinking before my (blv) upgrade allready about dual z, but i am still not convinced i need it.
Anyway i will give it a try. What's the better option? You showed the 2 steppers method, you just connected the 2 motors to z stepper on the skr e3 mini board? Did you change the current for the z-stepper/motor in the firmware?
Kind regards.

Btw, i did the upgrade on the x and y axis allready. I'm mostly impressed by the improvement!

do you think one day you could make a linear rail kit for the cr-10s pro v1?

The aluminum parts kit from Blurolls is definitely NOT all CNC machined parts. Most of them are crudely stamped and formed aluminum sheet - the kind of quality we saw from China 20 years ago. Many of the through-holes are oversized and tapped for no reason and some of the tapped holes are improper depths. The bends on the stamped parts are wildly inaccurate (see attached photo). This makes setting up the rails nearly impossible without major surgery. I spent a full day trying to get the z-axis aligned properly and I still have to shim the Z steppers almost 3mm to get the lead screws to line up. Am I the only one who received such shoddy parts?

Ben, a word of advice, if I may. You need to be careful of the products that you're attaching your name to. Putting the "BLV" blessing on garbage like this casts a shadow over all of your creations - a shadow that is completely undeserved!

My parts were fine. Although I had to use different hardware to mount the RT Z carriage to the 2020 rail with hammerhead nuts. My 2020 didn't have pre drilled tapping. If you look below you can see my printer in action.

Hmm, those look like Voron brackets on your build plate... Are we walking the same path, perhaps? That's one solid little Ender 3 you have there!

Yes, everything is printed. Took me a week with 2 printers on ABS+ and PETG for parts outside the chamber.

In your latest videos i noticed a bolt at the end of the x-carriage (other side of where the endstop switch is located). In the build video i don't see it. I suppose it is some fysical endstop for the carriage so it is not slipping of the rails by accident? For example when doing repair/maintenance/upgrade work?
Is it recommended during normal operation (printing)?

Kind regards.

Hi, it's just an emergency stopper I have added. Basically, it's a spacer an M3 screw with M3 T-nut (very simple).

I HIGHLY recommend that everyone that builds the BLV Ender Pro to install something like this. Maybe even have them add a spacer and M4 screw long enough to the bag, they already give you extra T-Nuts. I was working on the machine and my hotend road itself right OFF the rail, loosing quite a few ball bearings in the process. I have ordered 100 of these, I'm praying I'll be able to rebuilt the MGN12H carriage with them:


Well the Silicon Nitride Ceramic Ball Bearings showed up today, and I was able to rebuild the X rail by following the video Ben linked. I've seen some people question if the Hiwins are real, they look pretty real to me:

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

hi blv, by any chance is only the x carriage plate available as an stl?, reason i ask id like to add linear rail to my ender 2 on x, i was hoping i could use this carriage as im not skilled enough to design what i need to add a rail, best regards, and well cool project

Hi, is there a direct drive kit available on the market that is compatible with this BLV kit? Like the E3D Hemera extruder or the MicroSwiss Direct Drive extruder (which is on top of my list since it's a much better design maintenance wise then the Hemera)?

Due to a really weird bug on Thingiverse: apparently, the Thingiverse download system injects images
from various projects of other users that is not related to this project and saves it inside the "images" folder.
It's a really weird bug.. anyway, please ignore this folder and i hope they will fix it soon.

p.s: attached image with the only files of the project.

Comments deleted.

Dear friends, join the BLV Facebook group to share your experience, advice, and assistance.
occasionally I am doing giveaways (Last one was a DuetWifi v1.04 brand new board).. and i have started a new givaway on 2PCS of NF-Crazy hotends on the Facebook group
Feel free to join :)
I am always there :)

Hey BLV, is there any possibilty to get only the parts needed for Rail Upgrade? As my Ender 3 Pro works with a Direct Extruder and other parts, it makes no sense to buy the whole Upgrade kit.
Only the Rails + Connectors which are needed for the Rails would be highly interesting.


my friend, inside the bom there is a link for the rails only.. (RDBB)

thanks for this so much, ive been working on a project like this myself. ive been in manufacturing since high school and i used to build machines so seeing this shotty build quality of this printer kinda bugged me. for the price its fantastic but everything can be improved on. tbh ill pry end up machining most of the aluminum bits myself at work in my free time but any other pieces i come across during this build that i see i could make or help save some money on ill definitely let you know and share my build once its done. might try and machine my own rails but we will see, thanks again this is great work and looks like you took some time doing it. much appreciated, keep up the good work m8

cool, i hope you will upload a "post a make" so i could see how well it went.
Good luck :)

2 questions, Do you see any issue with moving the Y carriage mounting holes backwards on the rail by 10 mm to regain what you lose by adding the X linear rail? Secondly is there a mount that will work with this conversion for a Titan Aero?

Could someone, please inform me the size (i.e 610t, 640t...) of the closed GT2 belt used in the dual Z kit? My question is because I have found a Gates GT2 Closed belt 610t, which is great, but I am not sure if it would fit this kit.
Thanks in advance.

I want to order a Dual Z-axis upgrade kit (one stepper). The model I want to order, Blurolls says it's not compatible, but Funssor says yes it is compatible. So anyone can help me here please?

Note : I know I won't need the Z bracket from this kit since I'll be using the one included in the BLV upgrade kit.

I'm midway through this upgrade. Today the LED's and wire arrived so I figured I'd tackle the 3 LED's on the hot end. With Klipper firmware everything works perfect plugging the LED's into the Neopixel port on the SKR Mini E3 v1.2. Right now I have the jumper in the self-powered position as I'm still waiting for the 5VDCDC add-on board to arrive. The LED's I'm using are the exact ones listed in the BOM on the main page.

This is what the lines look like in printer.cfg:

[neopixel my_neopixel]
pin: PC7
chain_count: 3
color_order_GRB: True
initial_RED: 0.0
initial_GREEN: 0.0
initial_BLUE: 1.0

Example command to set LEDs to purple: SET_LED LED=my_neopixel BLUE=1.0 RED=0.3 GREEN=0

Add INDEX= to the command to target a specific LED individually... ie: INDEX=2

Is a linear rail setup more noisy than the original vslot setup? What about HIWIN vs Misumi vs chinese regarding noise?

Ok thanks guys!

Depends if you have squicky wheels, which happens often. Besides swoosh sound from the rails moving fast rate, virtually silent. Mine are cheap rails just rebuilt. Have a listen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SflD2k-UVOU

Yes, mostly because V-wheels are essentially completely silent, while the bearing balls in a linear rail do make a swooshy noise when they travel. It depends on how much you lubricate them too, heavier grease makes them more silent but adds resistance. Here's a good comparison.

Thanks for your mod, my ender is so Quiet. is this blue also available as filament? thanks

Hello Ben!
Hope you are doing well. Will you create dedicated group at Facebook for BLV Ender 3 Pro upgrade? Or I can use BLV mgn Cube for questions? Or I should use local comments section?
What do you recommend to use DuetWifi 2 or SKR mini E3 for this build?

Made most of your upgrades, the printer works like a charm.
Bought the original E3D Hotend, the SKR Mini E3 and so on.
Waiting for my Dual Z Kit and Extruder.

Thanks for this awesome guide!

Could it work on a Geeetech A10?

Hello, I have order the full kit which should be arriving soon.
I also have an NF crazy head. Any chance that the adapter will be released soon?


where can i find the Jigs for the Rails???? like in the picture?

have you tried looking in thing files? There is a Jig .STL file

And a second question, regarding the x-axis carriage. There is a mod (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3996864) for direct drive with an E3D v6 with dual 5015 fans, for mounting on the original x carriage. Since the holes for the wheels are gone, i suppose this mod cannot be used (without modding). Is there another mounting system for direct drive with a E3D v6 with dual 5015 fans?

Kind regards

SpeedDrive for E3D V6 + BMG (Pancake compatible)
Bondtech BMG + E3D V6 print head for Creality CR-10(S)

Thanks for the suggestion. But unfortunately, no dual 5015 fans. I think i'll pick this design however when i go for a direct drive setup. I was hoping to keep the dual 5015 fans, so i can run them at 40-50% and have things more silent.

Hi, what is length of the belt in the blv dual z upgrade package?
It's almost the same kit as found elsewhere on aliexpress, just without the bracket for the extra z rod. Regarding those packages some mention the included belt is to short.
Btw is the dual z recommended if there are allready linear rails for Z?

Kind regards

Any change the left side parts would fit on ender 2?

Hi Ben,
Is the x-carriage mount compatible to the HeroMe gen. 3 ?

Would there be any chance of you selling the aluminum brackets for converting the Z axis alone? I've already got kits from other sources for the X and Y rail conversion and would hate to have to buy the whole lot of them just to get the pieces I want for the Z rails. The specific pieces I'd be looking for are the X motor mount and the Right Z Axis Mount.

you can print them ...

I can, yes. But that would be a pretty severe downgrade from my existing aluminum brackets both in terms of overall rigidity, and in terms of part longevity.

Hi, first I must say that I am selling nothing...
I'm just an open-source developer while the manufacturers are selling it, I'm sure if you will try to ask Blurolls store
He will sell you only the needed part :)

Thank you Ben. I'll reach out to the Blurolls store.

you can't design a piece to put a 2020 profile next to the Y profile in ender 3, couldn't you use the design you made for ender 3 PRO?

Hi Ben, I have a question about the bed insulation. In the BOM you linked to cotton bed insulator and in the images and pictures you have it shows some sort of cork board. Is that something optional or different thing than the one linked in the BOM, also the recommended one looks kind of thick, is that just the images or is it really like that? Thanks love your designs.

I am using the cork because I have no other choice until my new cotton insulation will arrive.
had to remove the cotton bed insulator in order to replace my bed thermistor.
then I found that it was my last bed cotton insulator :(

ok thanks for the clarification. A second question I have would be your thoughts on the e3d hemera and how it could be mounted onto the carriage.

Hello Ben and once again you bless us with an incredible project.
Quick question: is the rear mounted spool holder, part of the bom / 3d printed models ?

It's the first time I see one like this and the orientation and location seems ideal !

  • Posted with 3D Geeks for iOS

Thank you..
I was wondering why no one until now installed the spool in the back..
and yes, I will add it today and also the needed Jigs :)

Thanks, you rock !

Good job, Ben! Can you add stl files? Because i have problem with opening few step files

The step files are not meant to be 3d printed - it's a step files for the manufactures.
Belive me a 2.5mm 3d printed will not be suitable for use.. only if they will be made from aluminum plates.

Yes, I know but I wanted to check that I can use this upgrade (except Y axis) on my anet e10 after changing profile on Z axis from 20x20 to 40x20mm.

Thank you :)
I really appreciate that

comparison to the blv mgn cube how good is the print qualiti ??

The BLV Cube will perform better due to the Core XY structure.
still, the BLV Ender 3 Pro upgrade will produce excellent quality prints compared to the original Ender 3 Pro.

You did a great job! Could you make a version for the standard Ender 3?

Thank you my friend :)
For now, there is a Kit available for the regular Ender 3 (not the pro) without
the bed setup: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/5aTdbQ8o

Hi Ben, thanks for all the good work! Are you planning to design a linear rail bed setup for the standard Ender 3 for us poor folks who don't have the chance to have the newer Pro version?

Hello everybody, I have a normal Ender 3 and a construction of it. The plate from the Pro fits perfectly. Did I miss something?

Kinda, you missed the belt.
With a linear rail taking the groove, the belt needs to be relocated to the side as is done with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3058382 or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3745354

Creality Ender-3 Y-Axis MGN12H Linear Rail Mod (Newer Style)
Ender Y axis linear rail conversion
Creality Ender 3 Y Axis Linear Rail Mod V2

That's a really nifty solution too, I like it. Keeps everything in line so the belt doesn't try to twist the bed frame.

Well, made an extra 4 screw holes that can be fitted on the regular Ender 3.
Then i added another 2 holes for any belt clamp. The brave ones, will create
an adapter for the bed belt (to lock it) and move the motor or add idler to each side.
I developed this upgrade for the Ender 3 Pro only since i found (Using an IMU sensors)
that the regular ender vibrate too much on Y axis.

Hi BLV, I have a standard Ender 3 and I too would like a linear rail solution for the bed. So if I understand correctly, I could buy the whole kit intended for the Pro and the following mod on Thingiverse would do the trick?


Creality Ender 3 Y Axis Linear Rail Mod V2

Thank you very much for your work and for sharing it. I have bought two kits and am expecting their arrival to assemble on my machines. In your opinion which way would you go? Bowden or Direct drive? Right now I have Trianglelab all metal micro swiss Swiss (bowden) feeded by a Titan extruder and I am happy with the results, but I can change for BMG direct drive, if the advantages are considerable.
Additionally, I am sorry for asking, but do you think the Trianglelab DDE hot end system will be compatible with the new linear guides? The reason I am asking this is because, originally it is made for the V wheel system.

For me, the Bowden with the Microswiss clone did a really good job (most of my prints).
the DDE can be mounted on the BLV setup since it has the same type of x carriage. the only change you need to
do is to drill 2 small holes for the carriage screws head (2 min job).

Hi Ben!
Thank you so much for this great design, and all your hard work!!
Regarding the dual Z axis, do you have a BOM for the parts for the single stepper version? I have threaded rods (2mm steps) that i would like to use, so would like to source the other parts from the kit (just not the rods).

Again, thank you so much! You the man! :-)

the threaded rods should be taller than the top extrusion, are they tall enough?

Ah, mine is 35cm, so just flush with the frame. Then i will go with the kit and use these for another build (Maybe a BLV Cube mini ;-) )
Thank you for you're help!

Looks great to me, though there are quite a few non-pro Ender 3 users (like me) so the bed not working for us is a bummer. Especially when it's a gigantic slab of aluminium which clearly not only costs to manufacture but increases the shipping as well.
I understand why it can't work, but maybe try poking the people at Blurolls so they could offer it without the bed bits as a cheaper "non-pro" kit?

Also it's false advertising, the kit doesn't come with a carrying handle ;)

a hSo what is the difference with Pro? Isn't there a way to modify regular Ender 3 to make the Y carriage work like the Pro? From what I see in photos it's just different aluminium extrusion (wider) being used and that's it? Why doing a half-upgrade for X and Z and keep the same wobbly Y?

If you are thinking of changing the Y-extrusion to the wider one, not easily as there is a milled cutout on the bottom frame piece.
Without that, the belt runs in the groove of the Y-axis, so there is no space for the linear rail. Compare the non-pro Y axis to the BLV upgraded one.

Maybe the rail could be mounted to the side groove with some 90 degree adapters, but it's not really necessary as there are simpler linear upgrades for the non-pro models, they bolt the rail on top and make the belt run on the side.
And for those, all you need is to either drill four holes, or print a small adapter plate, you don't need a whole new Y-carriage.

Ok, he agreed to make a new listing for the Ender 3 (without the bed setup) for less cost:

Dear John, that is an excellent idea i will suggest him doing that (hope he will).
Also, The handle is not part of the kit - but it is part of the BOM - cost 2$ i think from other store.
In his listing he uses a pictures of all the parts i designed (without the handle, because it's not part of the kit).
Anyway, I will update you my friend if he will agree selling it without the bed parts :)

I am really happy that this is released, the prusa is overpriced but is great for the consumer space, these experiences especially the one from BLV is for the prosumer, and is wicked, always thought twice about the BLV anet A8 as the belt is visible, now however i can use this design to hide the belt

The link to the creality stepper motor in the Z axis Dual Motor section leads to the cable as well, not the motor.

Thank you very much for this important notice :)
I have fixed it and now the link is the correct one.

Frustration ? I am not the one wasting my time and money !
THIS DEFEAT the whole idea of the Prusa design and people have to be warned !

hi arthur
i want to double the tip for your smart comment can you please send me your paypal?
its my money and i think you can do better things with my money.

As said to others, I don't take tips. As an engineer I don't need it and you couldn't afford my fee anyway:) So I advise people to make donation to Wikipedia.

Now that's a good one.
Do you have another joke?

Unlike you I MEAN IT !

So, when will you publish your built of this fantastic PRUSA clown ?

Not one single improvement compared to the original except for the belt to synchronize the Z leadscrews, something I made years back and published when working. The reactions made me realize that most people here have no clue in mechanic. It is getting worse by seeing this machine ! Not even a kinematic bed mount. Oh yes, it is shiny, a piece of art but an insult to good engineering.

I could start a game:
List all the design/built errors !
I will tip the one who gets the highest count and double tip ifor the one I missed !

just wait and see the results when the kit arrives.
until then i can reassure you that you don't have to break any savings plan, and not even open your wallet
do not bother

Comments deleted.

hey arthur.
i found you comment a very smart one.
is there anyway i can tip you via paypal for this amazing comment?
thanks in advance im waiting.
don't hesitate to wake me up with a reply please.

Dear Arthur (MKSA), It's not the first time someone write nonsense out of self frustration I guess.
I wish you good luck and all the best, take care of yourself and soon...

Hi Ben, its me again, that chinese buyer on youtube . Id like to buy this kit from aliexpress, and could you please tell me where is it shiped from?Thats quite important to me, thanks a lot! Love you!

Hi, I am just an open-source developer and not selling anything.
The first store that sells the kit is Blurolls (china) from here: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dC4nTB6C
please ask him if he can ship it for you, i hope he will agree..

Thanks a lot Ben, I did contacted with him, but he says it cant be shiped for me, which really confused me.
I do know the overseas market is bigger, it's still a pity that he cant deliver this kit to me.

Hope you will enjoy it as much as i while making it :)

Where can I buy this CNC kit?

Regrads Stefan

As for now, you can get it from Blurolls store at AliExpress

Many thanks. Would you recommend the "big" kit including HiWin rails?

Regards Stefan

Another quite professional upgrade from the engineer's point of view. Well done Ben.
Maybe it will need a flow simulation ;)

Thank you !!
yup a flow simulation :) :) :)

Thank you, my dear friend.
Hope you will like and enjoy it :)

Comments deleted.

Best part orientation and support for the hot end LED bracket? Also how best to attach it to the stock plate? Thanks!

The led need to be printing standing on the side - easy print without any supports.
the video shows how to assemble it :)

How do you make it work with the non-pro ender?

For now, you can get the regular Ender 3 version (without the Bed parts and bed rail) :http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/5aTdbQ8o

Hey Ben, This looks great. Just wondering what the reason was for the mgn rails on the inside as oppose to the outside edge of the 2040.


Thank you, I wanted the constrain points to be closed to the lift points yet close to each other.

Looks like a new printer. $60 bucks for a kit of CNC parts, that is a very fair price too (seriously considering it since I already have the rails).

One question though, why not use 3 point leveling? Something like this:

I have tried the 3 points Bed but unfortunately, it was not stable enough - making the bed vibrations even worse.
while printing I saw strange banding on the printed object.

Thanks, I had been considering buying that 3 point system, but was unaware of the potential for decreased stability. I use a BL Touch (clone) though so I could even just lock the leveling screws once set. Since it looks like it uses the stock cooling fan cover, my BLTouch mount should still fit too.

It appears to, but gotta ask - does it keep all the stock mounting holes for the X carriage (if I wanted to mount my titan to it)?

Is the bracket for the optional dual Z included with the base kit?

Sorry for all the questions :D

Thank you, I really appreciate that :)

thanks ben
realy game changer.
keep it up.

Thank you very much my friend!