The Transparent PLA I used to print the model was too soft at higher printing temps. I ran a few prints that had the nozzle temp around 135 degrees and this softened the front of the effector enough that it began to distort. This is the thinnest part of the structural portion. Eventually the framework distorted by forcing the front of the effector to bend downwards. As a result the effector no longer sits perpendicular to the bed and will result in the effector tilting quite a bit. I will have to try and print a version out of a higher temperature filament to see if this solves the problem.
This effect is not obvious at first. It does not happen during a single print but over several so you may not notice the distortion immediately.
Thingiverse took so long to display the files that I didn't notice I had the wrong collar. I believe the proper file is now uploaded. Let me know if you find that it is not correct.
I have also removed the older version although there are still some pictures of it. The newest version is in the clear filament.
I noticed that one of my rod bolts was getting loose. I believe its because I have disassembled and reassembled these components so much. The lock washers are bent out of shape and really don't do anything. I have some new ones coming, but I think that a little loctite or nail polish on the threads would probably solve the problem. My only concern with this is that it might be hard to remove the nut if it starts turning inside the plastic slot. A better solution might be to use a longer bolt and place a locking nut on the inside. In any case ensure that these bolts are kept tight as it will adversely effect the print.
This is a variation of a previous model I designed.
Read over the information provided on that model, as much of it pertains to this one as well.
This model has an improved air distribution vent that is fed by a 30x30x10 squirrel cage style fan. It also keeps the rods parallel because of the position of the new fan.
I am still not happy with the way the old fan clips to the new body. Since I had to increase the height slightly in order for the air duct to clear the block, the location of the fan clips are now out of place. This means the spring clips do not sit straight and the heatsink fan is not as tight to the heatsink as I would like. I will have to make some changes to ensure that the heatsink fan is not loose enough to slip down and fall below the nozzle.
I have not been able to test the airflow of the new fan so I am not sure if it is actually pushing enough air to make much difference for part cooling.
When preparing to install the new piece I would recommend that you ensure all parts are fitted before attempting to assemble. The nuts should be put into place first and be test tightened in case they are not aligned properly. also ensure that the bowden connector slides easily into its socket. It requires 6 20mm M3 bolts to fasten the effector to the rods.
The throat may need to be loosened from the heatsink in order to align the tip of the nozzle. The nozzle should protrude slightly below the base. If it is too far below the block and silicone sock will block any airflow. If it is too high the base of the effector will hit the bed and/or print object. I use a small piece of bowden tube inside the one that fits at the top of the heatsink. This allows me to adjust the position of the throat in the heatsink without leaving a gap where the filament might catch.
The new fan can be connected to the existing fan power by using a Y connector as shown in the pictures.
The heatsink needs to be screwed to the effector using two small (flat head) screws. The existing ones may be too tall.
When I slice using Cura I block off a 70x70x25mm area in order to only have supports holding up the parts that need to be supported (2 for the new version.) I designed the part to not require any supports in the inside or bottom section. I use full supports when I have the bottom blocked.
I have noticed that, if the nozzle is not extended beyond the base far enough, the rod ends can brush the print if you are printing to the outer edges of the bed. You need to ensure you have about 2mm clearance below the effector base to the tip of the nozzle.
You may need to move the heat sink down inside the casing or extend the throat out the bottom and add a small piece of PTFE inside the top of the block to fill the space that would occur.
I am working on a slightly different design that raises the rod ends slightly so they will be above the base of the effector. I am currently testing it out and will upload the improved STL when I am satisfied it has resolved the issue.
I have uploaded an improved version. It includes raised rod connectors and an angled base to allow more clearance. I have also separated the top collar from the main body and made the effector so it is printed in two parts. The main body only requires support on the fan clips and bolt protrusions above the clips. It can therefore be printed using Cura's support blocker. I have included a picture that shows how I do it (2 blocks) and then support everywhere.
The support collar bolts on using a couple of small M3 bolts.
I also switched out my nozzle with one that is slightly longer so it protrudes from the block a little more and provides better clearance. I was originally going to thread the throat down two rotations and use the old nozzle but it was over a year old so I decided tot try a new one I had lying around.
By extending the nozzle below the base it allows the block and silicone sock to sit a little higher and therefore does not block the vents as much.
I would recommend that the nozzle clear the base by about 2.5mm so that, when the effector tilts during the print, the edges do not touch the print surface. I included some photos to demonstrate this as well as how to insert a small PTFE at the top of the heatsink to fill any gap.