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sashalex007

SpeedDrive v1 - Ender 3 direct drive mount

by sashalex007 Aug 18, 2019
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Has anyone gotten this design to work with a Petsfang dual 5015 duct? I had a dual 5015 Petsfang back when I was still using a bowden setup on my Ender 3, and I liked it a lot better than the HeroMe dual 5015.

excellent design! little note for those who use ABL, be sure to adjust bed size in firmware. I use cr-10s, i have to adjust x size to 270 to prevent it to hit the right frame

anyone have the config file for klipper for the lost X axis space
i'm having a lot of issue with the lost space in the config file

this is not defined in the klipper config file, its defined in your slicer and octoprint

Really nice design! Do anyone know if this works on a regular CR-10?

I believe the carriage is identical, so yes

Has anyone used SpeedDrive with linear rails?
How did you alter the design to make it work?
And what linear rails did you use?

I just installed linear rails this weekend and had to shave a bit off the mount so that I could bolt it up. It greatly weakened it though and I need to find a better solution. i'll probably print the Ender 5 mount below and see if that works.

There is a remix of it for the linear rails but it is for Ender 5. Maybe it will fit?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4106225

Ender 5 Direct Drive linear rail mount
by WhoopeR

The Ender 5 mount will not work. The holes don't line up with the holes on the hot end metal mount. Tried it, didn't work.

https://imgur.com/zIF2Sjz

https://imgur.com/kTo6BZo

Comments deleted.

Is there any link to the BLTouch mount that's pictured there. I can't find that STL anywhere that fits this. Thank you!

the Bltouch mount is part of the heroMe system

guys my extruder is bending the mount :/ do you have an idea to handle this issue

edit: found it.. it was always bending because of the hot stepper motor.. PETG print is coming :)

Can you please make this for a CR10 V2?

Thanks for your great design I will give it a shot soon.
I just wanted to leave a note about klipper firmware and you might consider taking it into your thing details or not. I think klipper firmware is maybe a worthwhile upgrade. Nevertheless from my point of view it should be mentioned that this also makes your printer somewhat heavily dependent on the functionality of your UART/USB connection. I have a Raspberry Pi 4 attached to my Ender 3 and as some other guys I ran into the problem of sporadic interruptions (same as described here: https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/1919). Throttling the connection speed and hoping it will work sounds not much of an improvement to me. Thus the print speed is directly related to the UART speed - I think it would be better to have a better CPU installed on the board. There are approaches to this:

have you tried using Klipper's "Virtual SD" functionality?

There's a quickndirty fix for that too though, if you use CURA, look up Mesh fixes in the settings and change them from 0.05 to something higher, I have mine on 0.5. It'll give less instructions to the printer, which will then not be clogged and create bubbles by waiting a short time.

Do you recommend the z stabilizer? There are several opinions of this update. If affirmative, this one is good? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080912

Thanks!

Ender 3 Lead Screw Stabilizer

you should not use a stabilizer https://youtu.be/2Z7mZVvPlc8

yea that's a good one

I'm curious as to whether the Bulldog type extruder would work for this setup? I've also got some nice pancake steppers that I have procured from junked copy machines that I plan on using. I'd also like to implement the dual 5015 fan setup. Something I am currently using is a pressure booster plate for the heatbreak fan which you can see here and downsized appropriately!!!: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3009239
PS--Thanks Sashalex007 for designing the stepper to be over the rail, allowing for a more linear and balanced system!!!...steppers can be quite heavy!!!...done this way, it helps to counterbalance!!!

140mm Fan Static Pressure Booster 10/15/20mm
by Da6oN

glad you like the mod, I'm unsure about the bulldog extruder but if you have access to one please design a remix for it :)

Alex, your calibration cube is very impressive. I just recently got an Ender 3 and will do a direct drive conversion. I have some questions regarding your operating principles for the SpeedDrive design.

1 - Orientation of the motor (shaft) should be perpendicular to the X extrusion for good absorption of rotational inertia.

I am assuming you mean the motor shaft of the extruder stepper? The extruder moves relative slowly, does it really have that much of an effect? Wouldn't the gyroscopic effect of cooling fans be more of an issue?

2 - The motor's centre of mass should be as close as possible to the middle of the X extrusion for absorption of its significant linear inertia at speed.

If this is the case, have you considered moving the two rollers further apart so that the stepper could sit inbetween the rollers? This would put the stepper closest to the X extrusion and also widen the stance of the assembly. It may come at the expense of the build volume in X. We can also use the stepper itself as structure of the frame and increase overall rigidity.
Also, is this statement actually true? The linear inertia should be absorbed by the belt. Ideally, the centre of mass of the whole assembly should be at the attachment point of the belt which is the near the bottom side of the X extrusion so that the assembly only see a force in the X direction back and forth. Any rotational inertia is currently taken up by the rollers. Perhaps if the centre of mass is shifted up by the stepper being on top, maybe it makes sense to relocate the attachment points of the belt to the top of the extrusion. I'm just thinking out loud here. Am I making sense?

Edit: Another question, what are you setting your belt tension to? Are you using 3600/L formula and measuring acoustically?

Hi, I'm still a noob... but i know i need this in my life!

I upgraded to the silent board as i managed to kill one of the stepper controllers, do you know if i can still use the same firmware update to Klipper and if there is anything else extra needed if i try this out?

I spotted there's a bltouch type thing... does the new firmware support that or do i need marlin too?

Also... just to check... it is the same print head isnt it?

Thanks!

klipper requires a raspberry pi which is the easiest setup...you can run it off anything really but that requires more advanced knowledge of linux. Klipper supports the Bltouch but it's a bit of a PITA to setup. If by printhead you mean hotend, then yes its the stock one...or the microswiss which is the all-metal version.

Ah... I didnt check properly cause i was at work! :D Thanks for clearing that up! I'll probably be printing this tonight! :D

Hi! Thanks a lot for this awesome design. Just got it all installed. What slicer do you use, and what settings, etc. ? I have been having quite a bit of stringing since I installed it and tuned the retraction down to 1 mm. A download link to your profiles would be very appreciated! Regards from Denmark

Hey roseninc, glad you like the mod. Honestly there is nothing magical about my slicer profiles, but I will share what I use for retraction. Note that stringing could also be caused by crappy filament or too high temperatures. Also this is for my current setup (BMG+microswiss) so it might not be applicable to yours.

PLA:
retract: 0.5mm
retract speed: 70mm/s

Nylon/PETG
retract: 2mm
retract speed: 70mm/s

Awesome! Thanks for the tip! What slicer do you use and recommend? :D I tried both Cura and Prusaslicer, but jump a bit back and forth between the two. Also, a screenshot of your acceleration and flowrate settings would be much appreciated! Still trying to figure out how to print at that fast speed :)

I personally really like Cura, haven't used prusaslicer. I keep flow rate at 100%, maybe 99 if im printing certain PETG filaments. I use Klipper so I disable acceleration and jerk control in the slicer. The acceleration that I use for all my prints is 2500 which I set in the klipper config file

Hey sashalex, is the included HeroMe base the gen3 or the older one? Also, the modification u did was just trim the wire harness? Or something more than that?

the base is the latest one. The only change to it was removal of the wire harness. If you already have a base printed you can just snip off the harness

Thanks for the reply man. Gotta try these new dual 5015 blowers. :P

glad you like the mod, cheers mate

Hi, after a few days I managed to get acceptable print at very high speed (100/2000) but I can't figure out how to attenuate the banding. Tried without Glass bed but nothing. you can see on this benchy and is really far from your cube's perfection.

I believe if you are using a stock Ender 3 board, there is a very simple solder jumper board fix you can do. Basically what it boils down to, when the board was designed, the mixed decay mode microstepping was not properly implemented. I did this mod on my boards and the banding, most noticeable on curves disapeared!!! Any shop that does circuit board repair such as mobile phones, should be able to do this mod with no problems. https://youtu.be/S75meJJm9Kw

Are you on Klipper?

Hi!! Is there any option to use v6 + stock extruder? I'm having some issues with the bmg (clone)

the v6 is not supported on this page. I would suggest asking on some of the V6 speedDrive remixes out there

hey guys do i cut the bowden and put the tube inside or not ? plz help

yes, you will need a Bowden tube to connect the extruder and hotend

I took your model and added a wire guider so its out the way

Could you upload it please :)??

I didnt really like the way it turned out but I'll modify it and make it better, and I can upload it for you.

Does this include bltouch mounting support?

this is just an extruder mount, it does not disallow a Bltouch. You can mount it in any way you want.

I have this fitted now and it seems to be working, but I must say that the cable management might be a dealbreaker for me. I don't like the look of cable chains, so I printed the regular version and there is no way to zip the cables so that there is strain relief for them. They are just sort of sticking out the side It's a shame as I liked the design.

there is a way, you can check out what I did in the first image. I don't use cable links either

Yeah, no offense, but that doesn't look very good. I did think about it though, but the zip tie would just slide off, there is no hole or anything on the handle to hold it.

thanks for the feedback, although I have had no problems with that zip tie.

Ok. Well, I appreciate the work you did, the only suggestion is that I would have liked a cable tie off on the side for strain relief.

Ok, I'm apparently dumb. How does the endstop attach?

it just slips onto the carriage

Oh, I think I see in in your picture now. No glue or anything to make sure it doesn't come off??

I use the extra long one for my bmg setup, hasn't been a problem. It might be a good idea to hot glue it anyway...its very little effort to mitigate a lot of risk.

What is the new bed size? 200x200x200?

Also, are there any specific slicer settings that need to be changed? Maybe post an example profile? Not sure what slicer you use, but I use PrusaSlicer.

there is no restriction in the y axis, so you could go 200x235x200

I am having issues flashing my Ender 3 with the klipper firmware, I have followed all the directions several times and completely had to reformat the sd card several times with octoprint and kept trying. I get all the way to the part in the instructions on copy and pasting the port drive that it shows my Ender plugged into and when i go to "make" for flashing it gives me errors. I did a bit of reading and the only solution i have read was i may need to flash the board with a bootloader method from an arduino board which i do have on hand but wondered if this solution will even work or maybe i am over looking something...thanks!

did you burn a bootloader to the mainboard?

I just burned a bootloader and got it figured out, ya that was the issue and it is now resolved. I am now playing around with klipper pressure advance. Do you have any base line recommendations for printing with near stock Ender 3 at 100mm/sec? like what should i put my pressure advance at and accelerations/deccelerations? thanks

stock ender can do 2000-3000accel no problem. Pressure advance is between 1-1.5 for Bowden setups

Has anyone mounted a SeeMeCNC EZR extruder to this? Would seem to be too low, to my untrained eye.....

hi calpeters, do you want to try your hand at a remix?

That amateur hour effort would not likely be fruitful. I wish...but don't posses that skillset. Was hoping someone had tried it and could report yea or nay....

Hey Mate,

Like the concept of this drive. Can you make a mount for the BMG Mini. I have attached a thing that has the BMG Mini stl for size https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3785947/files.

And maybe check if the pancake stepper can fit without the extra stop, that would be awesome.

Cheers

Direct Drive Extruder for Ender 3 with Bondtech Mini BMG
by Rimba

Hi flowman, every time I have tried to design a mount without having access to the extruder it went poorly, so I am instead encouraging users to contribute their own remixes.

Do you have the base BMG Fusion 360 file? I'm not a pro with 360 but if I had something to start with I could figure it out.

Cheers

Works perfectly with stock parts, I've also used smaller motor (you can use any from the x,y,z axis) so there is no need for x spacer

you can also just order another smaller motor, even super thin like https://aliexpress.com/item/32841621498.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b364c4dI7Duzw (but that one has less torque so for stock setup you would need to run it crazy high vrefs - tested)

if you want to use existing non-extruder motor (if you don't have spare one or don't want to order one) the simplest is the replace it with the x-axis motor
if you take it from the y you will need to offset the axis endstop as otherwise motor will hit the bed - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3398302
if you take it from the z, then you will need to use t-nuts, or drill new holes to mount taller extruder motor or use a holder like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3370669

Ender 3 Y Endstop
42-40 Stepper motor holder for ender 3 Z axis
by Luo52

thank you ! :)
with the smaller motor we are also gaining the Z high we lost (with longer cable), right ?

Didn't try it but with a longer cable which could go over the top frame seems it should work without issues

is there any disadvantage of having a smaller motor on the extruder? I guess a bigger motor on the x axis will have more torque which is good if there is more load on it.

I have zero issues with 'smaller' extruder motor and I use fairly low vrefs (0.76 on extruder) compared to recommended https://youtu.be/7VHwcEroHPk?t=253 (I also have TMC2208)
so you could always increase if you get skipped steps

I've replaced it with z-axis instead, drilled 2 new holes since default rod wasn't aligned anyway (common problem on original ender 3)

Great design, but one question. With the BMG version, what is your new max print volume?

Its the same as the stock version 200x235x200, although depending on your comfort zone you could squeeze about 0.5cm more out of your X and another 1cm at least out of Z.

Although the endstop is longer for the BMG, the design of the extruder frees up more space on the opposite side.

I tried the cable clip and although it printed perfectly and functions well, it blocks the x endstop even farther. Maybe it would work on the other side of the motor?

is this version B you are talking about?

Looking at the BMG version, it appears that it would work with this variant of the Petsfang without modification.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2963434

Can anyone confirm this?

Petsfang Bowden Direct with Bondtech BMG for CR10/S/4, Ender3 and Tevo Tornado
by dpetsel

I cannot confirm, but I agree that it looks like it would work

Is it really important the infill settings? I mean with the gyroid pattern

4 walls is more important than the infill, but any pattern is probably ok as long as its over 40%

Is there any extra screws I would need to assemble this or everything is from stock assembly minus the M3s that are needed for Bullseye?

Yes everything stock. For the bullseye ducts, I recommend epoxy.

So on top of those two screws you use to mount the bullseye to the base, use epoxy as well?

You can do that, but I don't even use screws. Just wait until the epoxy is pretty thick, apply to connecting areas, adjust height of duct and clamp the two pieces together

Okay thank you. Hard to find metric in my hardware store for some odd reason.

I have to use some spacer for the v wheels, without spacer the mount presses to tight against the wheels..
now I am bit confused if I have a small angle or not :/

you have a gap between the mount and the carriage. If you remove the gap you won't need spacers.

I see this gap but I can not get rid of this gap without this spacer :/ tried for hours. I hope my solution with spacer is also working fine..
test run in few minutes..

the easiest way is to tighten everything first without inserting the sleeves. This will usually "set" the middle hole.

How did you mount "Dual 5015 fans"? Which one did you use, I printed the dual petsfang. I was able to mount the base by melting the top right piece but extruder is in the way...

I use the hero me gen3 with lightweight ducts. Although not officially supported, there is a way to use the petsfang and speeddrive together. See makes for more detail.

Not sure how I feel about all those washers, maybe I'd print some spacers. I think I'll go the lightweight duct route as well. As of now, the petsfang is mounted by just one screw hanging on an angle. Prints fine but there's no space for the endstop, but I think I can make some room for it. Really liking your design by the way. The only thing I'm wondering about is whether the fan orientation has any impact, like a gyroscope.

This is working very well on my ender 3 with klipper and printing PETG. Thanks!

I just made a compatible camera mount for the rasberry pi camera module.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3965589

It gives you a close up view of the nozzle without getting in your way.

Nema mounted nozzle cam for direct drive Ender 3 + pi camera

very nice! Im going to link this on the main page somewhere.

edit: its in the "files you need" section under the new subsection OPTIONAL MODS

awesome!

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Hey Sashalex great job w this design. A big fan of the philosophy. Will surely print, but have a few parts to do at the same time (micro-swiss etc) on my wishlist. You sold me on direct drive as I look at my otherwise-well-tuned Ender struggle with specific things, all of which relate to retraction.

Anyway, wanted to direct you to another really impressive design to have a look- the skelestruder. Made for Prusa but there is an adapter for Creality. Ninjaflex at upwards of 80mm/s.

When I build this I'm going to go with a lighter extruder stepper (sanyo) and possibly a linear rail X-axis to push the speeds up even more.

Thanks for the kind words. I had a quick look at the skelestruder, its pretty neat. Although the prusa has bondtech gears, there is no gear reduction which means less torque than a standard 3:1 BMG extruder. Its a cool upgrade for a prusa, but I don't think there is any advantage over simply using a BMG with a 3:1 gear reduction.

Hello everybody,
first of all, thanks for designing this.
I printed and installed it, here are some quick things that I found out, that are good to know in advance.

  • Make absolutely sure your endstop extension is printed flat, otherwise ther is a high risk of failing. Think about glueing it in place.
  • I printed the version with a cable chain mount, it broke while removing the support material. Zipties or excellent setup of your printer are
    the ways to go.
    -for getting the mount over the sleeves, heat it up with a soldering iron or something similar. maybe your printer nozzle works too, but i havent testet that one. might be a bit risky.
    -Put your motor in with the cables pointing up, as down doesn't work and left/right limits your Printspace.
    -no it won't work to well without getting a extruder cable extension, do yourself the favor and order it before you upgrade.( they are called
    stepper motor cable)
    -when i started increasing speeds my extruder started skipping, somewhere on thingiverse is a mod to increase the power of the spring, or
    just replace it with a new one while you are at it. also bumping up your nozzle temperature helps.
    -you will still need a bowden tube between the extruder and the nozzle, make sure its directly seated against the nozzle. also get a tube cutter or make one yourself. you will cut your tube somewhat often for this project, as getting it to the right length is somewhat difficult.

If I forgot something I will add it.

i printed the version a, could be possible that my support settings are shit, but I think i saw some other comments mentioning it. Thanks for staying active!

also which cable chain version did you print? If there are issues with it breaking I will beef it up

that's a great tip with the soldering iron, will add that to installation section. thanks!

So I already have the hero me, is it possible to just manually change the base or do I need to print a new one?

Yea, it's possible. Just cut off the wire guide.

I've printed and installed the BMG version and after some minor hickups it prints. But now I've got massive issues with stringing, even turning the retraction distance up to 7mm, higher than even for the stock bowden setup and it doesn't get better. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? The whole extruder setup is also slightly bobbing forward and backward during rectractions

are you on klipper or marlin?

I'm on Klipper, with Pressure Advance set to 0.2. After turning the retraction distance to 7.5mm the stringing has become somewhat manageable, but I still feel that it shouldn't be like that with DD and PLA

Yea, there is something else going on. Your BMG should not need more than 0.5-1mm retract. Also 0.2 PA is pretty high for a bmg extruder. Mine starts making funny noises when I use anything higher than 0.15 and I only run it at 0.1 for PLA.

I would do this: Set PA to 0.1, set retract to 0.5 mm at 70mm/s retract speed. Troubleshoot temperature, and other slicer settings...its almost certainly related to one of those things.

Klipper is a godsend. I love it. But why am I just now seeing this... On second thought, I thought this was just for a DD mount. Great write up!

Considering printing this - would I be able to keep the stock endstops with a pancake stepper? Have the BMG extruder, so plan is to use a pancake stepper if I go DD to have less weight

No, unfortunately there is not enough clearance even for a pancake stepper.

Hi! I'm wondering if you could make a model that's for the V6 hotend? Or at least release a step file so I can modify it to work with the V6?

I actually have a v6 and tested it extensively. The reason I don't support it is because its not a great upgrade if your goal is speed+quality; especially considering that there are better and cheaper alternatives out there. That said, you are free to remix to your hearts content! I have provided a step file further down in the comments.

Could you elaborate on why the V6 is not good for speed+quality and what would be better?

It comes down to two factors. Firstly, the v6 is not designed for creality machines so you are forced to use 3-d printed parts to hold it in place. This isn't an issue from a heat perspective, rather there is never going to be perfect connection with the carriage. This becomes an issue at high speeds and accelerations in the form of excess vibration at the nozzle.

Second factor is size. The v6 is significantly larger than the stock, and therefore sits much further out from the carriage. Again, at high accelerations, this imparts significantly more torque to the whole carriage.

All in all, the creality carriage has two beautiful holes for mounting a very nicely designed, compact hotend. This ensures perfect metal on metal connection and decent balance. I use the MicroSwiss clone from triangle lab.

I really like this design and wanna try it myself.
I'm using a SKR V1.3 with tmc2208 and the CR10s-pro extruder (see attached picture).
It seems like I have to remix my own design because that extruder differs a bit from the stock one.
Could you prodive the step file for it?

would you share if you managed to make it? I have e3 1.2 and same dual extruder.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33041468821.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dsU7hIG

I made a design but wont be able to test it until the weekend.

hi, did you get a chance to test this? I have the CR10s pro extruder also.

This looks great. Definitely make a page for it once you finish testing. I will link to it.

I can make a version for this if you are willing to beta test it!

Here you go mate! If you have any questions let me know

Does the version with the cable chain mount on top also accomodate a BMG Clone extruder?

No, thats for stock extruder. Would you like a cable chain version for the BMG as well?

Ah mate, I wouldn't mind. I was going to have a go at remixing but I'm pretty bad! My chains come into the hot end horizontally like your file speedDrive_mount_cableClip.stl. Not sure how easily you could accomodate a connection, but that would be ace if you could, thanks!

Hey, speedDrive_mount_bmg_cableClip.stl is up, give it a try and let me know how it goes! Your feedback is important!

Thanks mate, I'll have a go at printing next week when my BMG clone arrives, much appreciated. How would you orientate for printing, with the largest flat side down and as if looking directly up at the underside of the mount?

Check out this image for printing orientation

https://imgur.com/Yqz5DUt

Really enjoy the speedDrive!

I've got one question though: Could you please thicken the 'neck' of the cable clip where as it's breaking very easily (actually broke mine off when removing supports) & move the start of the cable-holder 1mm closer to the printed base, as right now it's 1mm off the print-bed when you print it.

Alternatively it'd be much appreciated if you could share .step or other design files for the speed-drive!

Thank you very much for the design, I can't wait to print it! :)

No problem, thanks for the feedback. I'll fix it this weekend!

Just realized - would it maybe be possible to rotate the whole cable-chain holder 90°?

Because most hotend-setups have their chains come in 'sideways' to not hinder the movement of the cable-chain - would be much appreciated if you could rotate it so it works with most other hotend-chain things like:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3336006

Ender 3 Extruder and Hotend Bullseye Duct Compatible Mounts

Also fixed the first version if you are still interested in that one

Hey, I just uploaded your request. Check out speedDrive_mount_cableClip2. Let me know if other changes need to be made, thanks.

Yea, I can add a version like that for you. Someone specifically requested the version like that so I made it (further down in comments). Ill let you know when its up

I dont see the cable clip 2 file anymore for the rotated cable chain. was it moved somewhere else?

Do you suggest printing them upright as they're shown, or reorienting them?

Definitely print them with the flat part down! If you imagine the mount installed and facing you, that's the side that goes down on the build plate.

Seems like an excellent, well thought out design! Would love to see a version for an E3D Titan extruder. Any chance there's one in the pipeline?

thanks for your comments! Check out the original mount design that I remixed. The author already has a titan version that should work great. The motor is placed behind the carriage, in the correct orientation...it should work very nicely!

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369418

ENDER 3 / CR-10 Direct Extrusion Mount

Hello sashalex007! I installed your mod yesterday I've been experiencing severe underextrusion. I calibrated my extruder and did a PID calibration, so I eliminated these things as suspects. I suspect it might be because of an incorrectly sized bowden tube. Can you give me an exact measurement of your own so I can cut it to size? I can't think of a way to accurately measure the distance from the extruder to inside the nozzle, where the bowden is supposed to touch the nozzle.

Edit: I also upped the VREF a bit for all the stepper drivers, so that can be excluded from the underextrusion equation.

Edit 2: I ended up disassembling and reassembling the whole hot end and eyeballed the bowden tube. So far so good! Really enjoying this desing now that it's free from underextrusions! Best DD mod EVAH! Kudos!

Sorry for the late reply!!! Glad you figure it out, please most makes :)

Hi !

I've printed your mod and so far enjoying it a lot. I'm using it with a double blower fan mod which required some modifications. I made an instructable, just tought I'd let you know
https://www.instructables.com/id/Upgrade-the-Ender-3-to-Direct-Drive-and-Dual-Blowe/

Seems to be working! Thanks a bunch for the great work.

ps. Would you care to share your klipper.cfg? I have mine working with a few customizations (still got a few broken menu items), but would be curious as to how you have yours configured.

Thanks for posting makes, your setup looks great. For klipper, my CFG file is totally stock apart from my pressure advance settings which i have at 0.2

Your picture comparing no TL-smoother vs TL-smoother just made me buy one for my extruder aswell :D Surprisingly, the artifacts I get without one are exactly the same as yours. Hoping for such a big improvement as you did get!

It's a bit of an artificial test because I printed those towers slowly. Thats going to emphasis the voltage spikes. In real prints, these bumps are spread out over a much longer area so they are not as noticeable, but improvements are still tangible.

What are you doing for cable management with this setup? I am fond of the chain links that are very popular, but I believe the best way to accomplish that would be if your model included a chain attachment so that the cable chain could run in the Y direction.

Admittedly, cable management has never been a priority of mine. I just zip tie them away from the bed. Can you provide a link to your cable links? I may have a solution in mind.

By the way, I am excited to test your model out... I have been using the design found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3386628 for the last month and it seems to work pretty well.

Ender 3 - Direct Drive Adapter

Here's the cables chains:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

And here's an idea for how I thought it could be integrated into the SpeedDrive:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3475424

I've used these chains before and they function well. Supposedly they increase the life of your cables by reducing strain when moving... but I haven't owned a 3D printer long enough to know if that's true XD

Ender 3 Cable Chain
Ender 3 Cable Chain Remix
by MichaW

Ill make a speedDrive version with the cable clip on top. Are you using the stock extruder or the BMG?

Using a stock extruder.

I just uploaded it, the file is called speedDrive_mount_cableClip. Its about 4mm offset from the original (for easy printing), but that shouldn't matter because there is plenty of play in those clips.

Oh quick question... is the Bullseye base you included exactly the same as the original, minus the arm (I think it was used to hold the cable)? I ended up just breaking the arm off at one point, so ideally I could keep using the base instead of printing a new one.

the other change I made was removing some material in the bottom left corner to make room for the endstop piece. You can cut that out yourself though if you don't want to reprint it.

Thanks! Will give this a try tonight!

did you end up printing this piece? How did it go?

Have you purchased an extension cable for the extruder motor? I'm finding that you lose length in the x axis as well as the z axis because the cable gets snagged. Please link the extension cable you purchased if you have. Thank you.

Hey :) Sorry for the long wait. By installing the extension cable I accidentally fried my extruder stepper driver on the mainboard, so I had to install a replacement mainboard aswell. ^^ Anyways, its all up and running again.
I bought these ones: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B073VK7QPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are standard HX 2.54 4-to-6 cables. The length of 1m fits perfectly now, its enough for the full X- and Z-range.
BUT...(and you've been officially warned now ;) ) watch the polarization of the inner two cables! When you order the cable, its wired up as follows:
A--A
B--B
C--C
D--D
The Ender 3's stepper however needs it like that:
A--A
B--C
C--B
D--D
So you have to fiddle out the inner two connectors of one end and switch them! I thought those cables were standardized and plugged it in as received which wasnt a good idea... The stepper then only did a little wiggle back and forth of about 1mm in length and that was it, the driver was fried :D
You can look up the needed wiring here:
https://github.com/Creality3DPrinting/Ender-3/tree/master/Ender-3%20Wiring/PDF
Regarding the pictures I promised, they will follow in the next days. I obviously didnt have the time in the past days :)

Hello! Thank you for the reply, and no worries about the wait. I want to buy the wire, but I don't want to pay $10 for 4 wires when I only need one. Please advise: I found what I believe to be the wire I need on aliexpress (https://bit.ly/2ktDUdB) for about $1. Is this the cable I would need? If so, please let me know. If not, would you kindly link me to the correct one on aliexpress? And I will heed your advice about wiring the connectors properly, thank you! <3 You are very kind.

Those are the correct ones, just be sure to order the 100cm XH2.54. Looking at the picture it seems like you need to switch the inner two connectors like I did. Its not a big deal, though.

I found these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000127053665.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6bd43c00kYWrRM&mp=1
for 7 bucks shipped and wondering if it's worth the several weeks wait and the cost. I'm actually considering to just do some quick soldering.

This thing works like a charm on my Ender 3! I managed to get it to work with the Petsfang V2 by sawing off some very small, not needed, parts of the base and the fan duct itself. Using a jerk of 8, a perimeter acc of 800 mm/s^2 and speeds up to 100mm/s, I saw no introduced ringing caused by the added weight. Not to speak of the much better pressure control inside the nozzle! Linear Advance can finally do its job and isnt hindered by the long bowden tube.
Also, I ordered extension cables for the E-stepper to be able to print at full height again. I will post some pictures, after the cables arrived and I titied up the cable management. :)

I'm finding that you lose length in both the z and x axes because the cable gets caught behind the bed (if you choose to wire it behind the bed) or is always at risk of getting snagged by the bed if wired to the side. One of the major downfalls of this design, for sure. I've been looking for extensions but I haven't found any. Can you please link the extension cables you ordered? Thanks in advance.

Glad it worked out for you! Please post makes :)

Also, you lose about 5cm in Z height with this mount, so keep in mind that you will have to adjust that in your slicer settings

any chance you could share your klipper configuration settings? i want to install klipper, but i have no idea where i would start with this direct drive mounting system (as i assume configuration would be different for a bowden setup using klipper). i'm currently printing this to make my own ender direct drive, but i wouldn't even know where to start with klipper. also, does this mounting system require any length of bowden tube between the coupler and the hot end? i've seen some people use small pieces of bowden tube in their direct drive systems. please get back to me, thanks.

The stock creality hot end is a PTFE style hotend so you still need a short Bowden tube connecting the extruder and the hot end. These types of hot ends are prone to clogging because often you get a gap between the Bowden tube and the nozzle. There are various solutions for this but the simplest (and my favourite one) is as follows:

  1. Preheat your hot end to 200degrees. The hot end assembly can only be pulled apart hot. Unscrew the nozzle and pull out the Bowden tube.

  2. Screw in nozzle all the way, and then unscrew it a 3/4 turn. I use a socket head with a mark on it to know how far to unscrew.

  3. Insert your Bowden tube into the hotend as far as it will go and then some.

  4. Now screw in the nozzle all the way.

This method works, because it squishes the Bowden tube against the nozzle thereby ensuring no gap. The length of Bowden tube you will need is roughly 65mm long. This is maybe a bit long, but you can trim it later. Make sure the end that goes into the hot end is cut straight. There are guides you can print that can help you with this.

To run klipper firmware, you need an external application processor. The easiest one is a raspberry pi. An old laptop and even an android device can work too, but that requires pretty advanced knowledge of linux. Get octoprint running first and then the klipper documentation will walk you through the install. As far as configuration, start with the .cfg file already provided for ender3 in the klipper installation. From there you can adjust all settings pertaining to your printer. The only changes I made to this file is setting pressure_advance to 0.2, and acceleration to 2500. These settings work for my printer, but may be slightly different for yours. I recommend playing around with these.

If you switch to a geared extruder, you can switch to a pancake stepper to reduce your carriage weight even more.

The goal here was to mostly stick to stock parts and easy upgrades, but I see your point. Although its debatable whether or not the weight would do anything at this point because the bed is still heavier than the carriage, and there is not much that can be done about that.

With a pancake stepper you also don't need to worry about the stepper hitting the Z profiles.

Personaly I hate the Ender, but: Respect it seems that you have done good work on that bitch ,-)
So far to say, even if I would build the whole by myself with better components.

Thanks for your comment!

You know, I think the ender3 gets a bad rap because creality cut so many corners with it. I just wasn't convinced that a prusa is "that much" better to warrant the price, so I set out to close the gap in the speed+quality department. It took a while to get to this point, but all things considered, I don't think my mods are too excessive for a beginner willing to get their hands dirty.

Also, there is a ton of terrible advice about enders that is accepted as common wisdom.

Yep, there is a lot of bad advice not only about the ender. But I do hate em first because it is manufactured with less than no care at all. Second for just a few dollars more it could be a damned good device by some slight changements done.

What would you change on the Ender?

  1. Change the part that holds the Stepper for the x-axis, seen this is not in a clean angle
  2. Cut the profiles in clean angles or best cnc milling of cutting surface
  3. Both sides rods for the Z-Axis and upper bearings for the rods
  4. Put the z-axis stepper in line with the rod nut
  5. direct extruder
    6 electronic that is asembled in a clean way, not like done actually. ( by ex. cooling part which doesn't touch the IC)
  6. better cable guidance
  7. Well placed USB slot instead of card slot

So far if it's keept cheap
But the one I will build later on is only with linear guide rails, What mainboard... I don't know yet, seen a Duet seems a little to good for a bed pusher, whiloe on the other hand linear rails with a good extruder...... I will see

8- Better X tensioner

Hi,
Very interesting and when you will finish it (next version ;-) ) I will try to precisely understand the X update requirement to be able to adapt m'y personal ender-3.

I apologie but I do not clearly inderstood if it only use the original ender-3 parts.
If not please identify clearly which part is replaces by what.

Question :
1) could it work by keeping the lateral fan with this perfect air vent guide ?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091300 or this one
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3661859

2) does this increased speed is a risk of fire due to the higher temperature that motor will have ?

Sincerely thank you for you shared work that will allow us to work quickly and for you answer to my questions.

Creality Ender 3 part cooling fan duct
Longer Reinforced Part Cooling Ring Duct for Creality Ender 3

Thanks for your comment.

All parts are original except TL smoothers, yellow springs, and aluminum extruder(not necessary IMO).

Everything should work just fine with the cooler you linked

Thank you for you perfect work and support.
It is appreciated for all ender-3 users that now are able use it more efficiently ;-)

With pleasure to see all upgrade of this direct Drive and other ender-3 professional upgrade like this you shared to us.

Really appreciate your gratitude! Good luck!

I am about to install a linear rail on the x axis after having success putting a rail on the Y axis. I was thinking if i put the rail on the x axis this could possibly push speed drive mount out far enough to have the stepper motor clear the sides without hitting that is if i use a pancake style motor. Also would this mount even work with a linear rail conversion? Just some ideas, i think the perfect ender 3 is linear rails on all axis with direct drive running klipper and octoprint.