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Ender 3 All in One, Universal Rear Electronics Case w/ Cable Chains and Accessories

by jrosen9 Aug 15, 2019
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Hello, fantastic work.
I would like seing the wire diagram. Would it be possible?

for some reason this file is really small in simplify 3d

Do you have a step file for the left side? Im trying to get the hole placements for the double channel relay

I am curious on the fan wiring, is it intended to go over the case and into the slot?

I am going to start printing this tonight. I just ordered the connectors for it and i love your design additions.

Thanks for posting this design. I’ve printed everything And all is fitting nicely. I find myself unable to visualize your intended wiring setup. Do you have pictures of the completed wiring or a schematic? I really appreciate your time and effort in doing this remix. Hope you are doing well.

I'll try and get up a fritzing diagram this weekend, however, I have a very busy weekend so it may not happen. In words, you are going to split your power supply input into two 24V lines which then connect to the XT60s. One of these lines is going to go to the 30A relay and then to the power in to your control board. You then connect the return from the board to the negative terminal of that line. The other 24V line is fed to the WAGOs that are behind the control board. You then need to connect the two DC/DC converters to those WAGOs making sure you keep positive and negative separate. If you haven't done so already, this would be a good time to set one of the DC/DC converters to 5V and the other to 12V.

Now you need to run a line from the output of the 12V DC/DC converter to the other 3 port WAGOs behind the 2-relay. You can then run the relays to these wagos as well (I have not done this as of yet as I don't have the lights I want). Finally, run a line from the 5V DC/DC converter to the 5 port WAGOS. Then from the 5 port WAGO run to your raspberry PI as well as the power pins for the various relays. I believe the positive goes to upper right most pin on the raspberry pi and the negative goes to the pin 2 below that. Then run your relay control wires from the raspberry to the relay.

My completed wiring (minus the control board and fans) are pictured in the 4th picture. It shows up in the app, not sure why its not showing on the desktop

Thanks so much. I know can visualize it.

Just an Idea for FAN positioning: What do you think about repositioning the fan like placed here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3690822 It should solve some issue, better airflow, vertical position (smaller change for filament to drop into the fan from the table). Maybe should pull out a little to back-way, to left some place for the 30A relay.

I'm not sure about temperature control for fan, because there is no chance to measure correctly each part of the box, or if you try that will be too much thermistor, connection, and cables again. Or maybe with octoprint collect all data from mainborad and RPI? The controll itself possible, write a module for it and controll a power mosfet with PWM, with a digispark attiny it's easy, cheap and small, working from 5V, can communicate with octoprint on any protocol like I2C or serial. I'm just wondering based on what kind of measures?

Ender 3 universal rear electronics case REMIX

While that fan positioning is nice there simply isn't any room, particularly with the rest of the components I am fitting.

My SKR 1.3 and drivers came in yesterday so I started to print the bases. I have printed the right side and it looks great. However, after doing a fit check with the board, I have already noticed a change I want to make. I will be doing an update to reduce the opening for the USB and micro SD card. I find the gap to be too large and will allow too much dust and debris inside. The connection for the cable chain also appears to be too small. My printer is currently printing the left side. When its done I will fit check the cable chains.

Regardless, expect an update either this weekend or Monday. Hopefully I will have the lids redesigned by then as well.

I printed everything and was about to install everything when I found out my XT60 slots are too small. I made a redesign last night and am currently in the process of printing it. If everything goes well I will have the final bases uploaded tonight or tomorrow.

How about just drop the XT60 slots? And directly wiring the PSU to the Wagos, and from there going to the DC-DC converters, and to 30A relay? I don't see any reason disconnect the PSU from the Wago, if want to cut down the power from it at all I'll simple use the mechanical switch at the PSU. What do you think?

I prefer the XT60s for multiple reasons.
1) I don't have to modify the PSU and cut off the existing connection.
2) If I run the wire directly to the WAGO, I now need another hole with a clearance fit for the wires. I would prefer having as few holes as possible to reduce entrances for dust and debris. The XT60s being press fit seals the hole.
3) Even if I got rid of the two 24V input lines, I would still need an XT60 for the output voltage. My intent is to run 12V LED lights and power them off of that connection.
4) Finally, I want to be able to separate the box from the power. If I ever need to work on the box components I prefer being able to unplug the connection and be sure that there is no power going into the box. Also, being able to remove the power connection makes it easier to manipulate the box if you are working on it.

Hmmm, interesting. I'm thinking in the reverse way.
1) Not a big deal to cut the connector, and connect directly into the screw terminal in the DC-DC converters or the Relay
2) I agree with this. But because the cooling fan it will be collect dust anyway
3) It's not an issue for me, I have 24V led strip. But for this aim maybe I'll use XT60 too maybe
4) Yeah, it could be tricky. You can't absolutely remove the box because the tons of connectors in the motherboard, but definitely could be trick if you have a fixed connector in the right box too.

To be honest, I simple don't trust this XT60 connectors. I can't belive it can delivery 60 amps, but 30 either. And this PSU give around 16amps at 24V at full load. This is why I prefer to skip this connector where the current is bigger. I worked with higher voltage too, a 60amp connector looks much more powerful. For example the typical German style wall outlet designed to 16amps, and the connector there much more bigger.

I still wait for the new motherboard, rpi, etc etc, I have time. But maybe I'll create a remix from your work and skip these XT60s (or at least at the main input). From other hand, thank you for your work, it's pretty impressive and contain every important feature which missing of the original box.

XT Connectors are essentially the standard for high amp DC connections, you propably had some bad experience with dodgy clones as did i.

But that Schuko comparison... AC is a tame kitten compared to high amp DC.
Compared to a Schuko socket, a real XT60 has a lot les internal resistance, much bigger direct contact surface, connectors made out of gold plated brass vs the silver plated steel on schukos, soldered vs screw terminal connections and is encased in fire resistent anti static plastic. And yet at 24v a XT60 is only rated for 30 amps at constant current. All that because DC is a lot more demanding than AC.

TL;DR a real XT60 can handle whatever the enders little 15 amp PSU can throw at it, but cheap brass plated steel XT60 clones can have such a high internal resistance that they can melt or even burn their cheap plastic casings at 24v 10 ampls.

Hi! Yeah, maybe I had just the bad experience because clones. I tried to remove the brass layer one of my XT60s and under it it's looks like steel as you said. :/ I still don't want to use these here, just now with proof :D I'll use them somewhere lower current usecase.

Anyway, I already printed out my version with a little change (like dropped XT60s), you can find it in remixes.

Yeah thats a good test if youre not sure, usually its already noticable from the shine. Unles they now buff the brass plating to shine like a gold plating. :| (Got time to check if your enders XT60 is one of the mid runs with lower quality XT60s, was the case with mine)

Nice edit, im in the process of remaking the whole enclose as many of components dont fit, right now jrosens barely fits the necessaries and has my beloved Wagos, so it will do for the time being XD

If you don't want to use the XT60 you can always use their empty hole as the pass through for your wires. The other XT60 slots could be "venting" holes

Awsome Remix!
is it possible to have this tweaked to work with the standard board and maybe a parts list of the components used as some components depending on model or buy location have slightly different in dimensions?

A parts list is a good idea. I'll try to make an update to include it at some point today. Standard board may take awhile as I still need to redesign to covers to include fan supports. I may try and design for the standard board but there is no ETA on when that would be.

Nice design, looks great. Have you tested it out yet, and what chain was it designed for?

I printed and installed everything. It works with the linked cable chain. However, you will need more links than before as more of the cable will be exposed.

I have not tested the print yet as I am still waiting on my SKR 1.3 and stepper motor drivers to come from China (The wait is hard). I have tested the electronics of the setup. If you look at the Ender 3 OctoPi control box that I also remixed this from, it contains the same electronics. I have built that and I am currently running my Ender 3 off that without issues.

As for the cable chain, it was designed for JonnieWhiskey's chains found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

Ender 3 Cable Chain

I really like your design, it's basically what I was looking for. However, when I download the files, they seem to be corrupt, as none of the slicers I have show up with anything on the print area.

Already repeated the process of download a couple of times, but I think it's the source files issue. If you can re-upload them, I'd love to print them out.

Thanks for your work :)

So when I download the file and bring it into Cura it shows up fine, Cura just needs to scale it 100000% (not a typo) for some reason giving the left part dimensions of 135x125x33.

I think I know what is going on. I use Creo Parametric for my design work as it is a program that I know. Creo is working in meters. My guess is that when I export the file to an STL, its dropping the units and seeing a dimension of 0.135x0.125x0.033. This is extremely small and is most likely why you don't see anything on the build area. Let me see if I can recreate them at the appropriate size. If you don't want to wait, you should be able to scale it up.

Ah, ok.Makes sense now. I'll try to put the dimensions and see what comes out of that. Thanks for the quick reply :)


I think I updated them. I also refined the STL conversion settings so the curves should be a little bit better as well. Let me know if you have any issues.


I can not see the lids in Simplify3D, could you upload the files again??. If I need to scale, do I use 100,000%. If you could give me the dimensions of the left and right lid in mm, I could see if my scaling is right.

Are these the correct dimensions:
Left lid:
X-axis : 124.05mm
Y-axis: 125.00mm
Z-axis: 11.40mm

Right lid:
X-axis: 124.05mm
Y-axis: 125.00mm
Z-axis: 11.44mm

???? Are these the correct dimensions???

I really like this design and I am about to print these parts so I can upgrade my motherboard to SKR V1.3. Could you add a slot for a pi flat camera cable to come out so I can use it to attach this camera to the octoprint for octolapse??

pi camera:

pi camera cable:

I will need a small slot on the cover of the raspberry pi compartment.

If you do not have the time to do this, could you leave model file so I can try to make the adjustments myself??

Do not print yet. I just tried to install everything and found I forgot to account for distance the usbs sit in front of the Rpi circuit board. This results in the mounting posts being misaligned. Also the 3d model of the 2 relay I used was off so I had to adjust those posts as well. Finally the 30A relay was also too close to the headphone jack on the pi resulting in me pushing the pi to right a bit. I'm printing my update now. If all goes well I will update tomorrow.

As for the pi camera, I can try adding a slot, but I wouldn't recommend it. You will have a lot of wires running through there that I wouldn't want to add another. I'm not even certain where to put the slot. Maybe next to the fan on the lid? My recommendation would be to use a USB camera

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

Ok, I will hold off on printing for now. I understand what you are doing with this. But, I would still like a slot for the pi, camera. I will have four cameras hooked up to my printer: right front, overhead, one pointed at the filament feed hook up, and back right. I will be using two raspberry pis for two of the cameras. The other two are Wyze cameras. So I really do want the camera slot. If you are not willing to put one in then I can use my Dremmel tool to cut out a slot. The second raspberry pi will be sitting next to the printer in its own case.

I hope this time the lid .stl files will show up correctly.

I can add a slot, but I need you to give me the dimensions of the slot as well as the location you would prefer the slot in.

As for the lids, I have had no issue downloading them from the site and putting them into Cura. If they aren't showing up in S3D, try opening them in Microsoft 3D builder and then saving them. 3D builder seems to determine the size correctly and then converts to mm

OK, got the lids to show up correctly in Simplify3D by importing them into Microsoft 3D Builder and saving them as a .stl file. Then importing the saved .stl file from Microsoft 3D Builder into S3D. Thanks for that information.

I think you should place the pi camera slot above the Ethernet port for the raspberry pi compartment.

Dimensions of camera slot is:
Width: 22.5mm
Height: 3.0mm

Also are your holes for the 3B+ or 4B?? Can you make one for the 4B. The 3B+ and 4B have the same dimensions but the Ethernet port has been moved.

I plan on using the raspberry pi 4B, but it requires more Amps than 3B+. Here is the DC to DC converter for the raspberry pi 4B with 4GB of memory.

New DC to DC converter for raspberry pi 4B:
NOYITO DC-DC 5A Buck Power Supply Module 9V 12V 24V 36V to 5V 5A 25W

Dimensions for NOYITO 5A Buck converter from above URL:
Module size: 54mm28mm12mm

My measurements taken by hand:
Length: 53.84mm
Width: 27.97 mm

The mount holes (my measurements):

IN to the LEFT, OUT to the RIGHT (usb connector on the right)
Two holes on left edge, one hole in front of the OUT on right

Top LEFT hole: 4mm diameter circle
Distance to hole from top edge: 1.16mm
Distance to hole from left edge: 1.0mm
Distance to hole bottom edge: 22.88mm
Distance to hole from right edge: 49.21mm

Bottom Left hole: 4mm diameter circle
Distance to hole from bottom edge: 1.0mm
Distance to hole from left edge: 1.0mm
Distance to hole from top edge: 23.10mm
Distance to hole from right edge: 49.26mm

Hole on RIGHT in front of OUT: 4mm diameter circle
Distance from top edge: 7.25mm
Distance from right edge: 7.57mm
Distance from bottom edge: 16.85mm
Distance from left edge: 42.62mm

I'll add the slot for the Camera ribbon as that is a quick change. I cannot state when it will be done as I live in central Florida and we have a hurricane headed our way.

To answer your question, these holes are for a Raspberry Pi 3b+ and others of that form factor. I currently have no intentions modifying this design to include a RPi4 as that would consist of considerable work on my part and is outside the scope of this project.

However, that being said, from just briefly looking at the spec sheet, it appears you could fit a 4 without changes if you simply mirror all the parts. However, I don't know how the cabling will work with the controller board on the left. You would also have much longer run of the power cable. Another option would be cut the entire RPi slot into a single large rectangular opening. Finally I see no reason the existing DC-DC converter will not work. The 4B runs off of 5V 3A. The DC-DC converters I linked have a maximum power output of 3A.

Yes, I know that Raspberry pi Foundation recommends 5V with 3 Amps, but every raspberry pi 4B I have purchased (about 5 now), I have always purchased a CanaKit power supply with it and it is rated at 5.1V for 3.5 Amps.

The converters you have (Jsdoin 6 Pack LM2596) will only output a Maximum of 3 Amps and in the NOTES section of the “Jsdoin 6 Pack LM2596” states, and I quote “Keep it under 2.5 A and use the heat sink when working for long hours.” Well, I plan on using my raspberry pi 4B for LONG hours; I want to leave it running continuously so I can have Octoprint running. So since the minimum for the raspberry pi 4B is 3 Amps and the the “Jsdoin 6 Pack LM2596” will only output 2.5 Amps continuously, I thought that giving the raspberry pi a little bit more Amps might be a good idea.

No worries thou, I can just but the NOYITO DC-DC converter in an external box to feed the power to the raspberry pi 4B.

I thought the only difference between the 3B+ and the 4B (besides the power connection and hdmi connections) was that the Ethernet connection has been swapped with the USB 2.0 tower. The USB2.0 tower and the Ethernet connection can be the same height if you chose to make the Ethernet space that size.

So I think what I am asking is can you make the three spots for the Ethernet connection and the USB2.0 Tower and the USB 3.0 Tower to all be the same dimensions? That way I think the box could accommodate both a 3B+ and 4B.

Since the micro-HDMI connection and USC-C power connection will not be available to the outside of the box, no need to worry about those connections. Anyways if you are using the raspberry pi to have Octoprint connected to your 3D printer, than you will not care to have access to to micro-HDMI connections.

Since your box design accommodates the ability to power the raspberry pi, not having access to the USB-C power connection is not a problem either.

For me I will just add a hole to the plate with my dremel tool to get cables into the box to power the raspberry pi 4B and use a “2pcs Parallel XT60 Connector Plug for RC Lipo Battery (1 Female XT60 Connector Plug to 2 Male XT60 Connector Plug)” to feed into my “NOYITO DC-DC converter” then take the cables from output to inside your box to power the 4B.

I will look at the cable routing once I print out the box and place all the items I have in the box. Right now, I am still printing parts for a Dry Box for all my filaments.

So, Can you make the three spots for the Ethernet connection and the USB2.0 Tower and the USB 3.0 Tower to all be the same dimensions??? Do you think doing that will allow the raspberry pi 4B to be used with your box design??

I'm thinking there is not too much reference about RPI4, but maybe should be similar from this case like RPI3+. I had lots of them, and It's really easy to push down the power hungry to around 1-1,5 amps (with full CPU). The key, you should disable HDMI, Ethernet and other non-used services. And don't forget, it will not run with full CPU for long hours. In idle it's eat around 500mA (RPI4 is around 650mA). I'm thinking it's safe to use with this buck converter. You can add a heat sink if you really want.

I more worried because the HF noises. Just for safe better to add a high frequency cheramic capacitor between rpi and the buck converter, because rpi using a switch mode buck converter too for make the 3V3, and the big 24V PSU are a switch mode power supply too. 3 piece of switch mode power supply in linear could be really noisy at the end. But these are really tiny, you can directly solder to the output of the buck converter next to the wires.

Sounds like very good information here! I do not want to turn off the Gigabyte Ethernet Service, would block WiFi. Was not aware that the 4B will idle at 650mA. Thanks for that info, and the info on noise on the power.

I love this design, and since the raspberry pi now has the 4B, I think it would be a shame not to consider it when designing the box because I also plan to use Octolapse. A raspberry pi 4B just runs sooooo much faster than a 3B+, this is why I am discussing it. All I really am doing is trying to help, please understand I am in no way criticizing anything, just want to improve upon an already GREAT design.

Thanks for listening to my ideas.

Don't forget, RPI4 have different layout like RPI3. In RPI3 the Ethernet connector in the left side, and after the 2x2 USB. Like in this case design. But in RPI4 first (at the left side) there is the USBs, after the Ethernet connector.

To be honest, I'm thinking RPI4 is too expensive now, around double of the price. I stay with RPI3+ for a while, maybe after half a year it will be around the same price (this happend with RPI2-RPI3 too). But yes, RPI4 definitely faster, especial with increased ram.

I don't want to shoot timelapse video, just remotely control and review my printer, sending gcode for it without playing with SD cards, cut the printer power with the relay, etc. Should an RPI3 enough, maybe an RPI0 too.

I agree with you, the box is awesome. My problem is the XT60 connectors, check above. Everybody have a detail for making this box perfect. I waiting for the new mainboard, RPI, etc after print and build this project.

Sorry, as stated previously, I will not be designing for the RPi4. The cost is high and there is no real benefit for using it to run Octoprint. The boost in speed just doesn't give you any real appreciable gains. Also, it is not as easy as just adjusting the slots as I have the slots parametricly tied to a 3d model of the RPi3. Further, making so all the holes are the same height removes one of the goals of making a clean fit with the Pi. Also, I can't guarantee it would work anyway as I believe there is a width difference between the ethernet and USB ports

You are welcome to take the STL files and cut the slots bigger for yourself if you wish. Furthermore as you are already planning on using a Dremmel to cut other slots, you could use the Dremmel to expand the opening.

Finally, I have uploaded images of my completed print. I will have the final 1.0 STLs uploaded this weekend.

Will you be willing to provide the modeling file for your design?

Unfortunately, I cannot currently locate my modeling files. I was switching work back and forth between computers and I cannot seem to locate my final version.

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