Added a Version with Ears that can be moved also.
Added a Version 2, made the stud in the neck larger so there is less area for the head and neck to bond together. It is easier than the original version to free up the neck and head.
One of my Grand children and I was playing with a Low-poly Pikachu I printed for them, and I had the thought that it would be nice if the tail and head could move...... Well a couple of hours at the computer and we have a Pikachu that can move it's head and tail.
This prints all at once, PLEASE read the printing details. Once the print is done, slowly loosen the tail up first. Then comes the hard part, breaking the neck area free. I use my scraper and slowly add pressure in the neck joint until I hear some cracking. I then work my scrapper around the whole neck area to free it up. It does take some practice.
I have Decapitated Pikachu trying to free the neck. I have killed a Pikachu or two now.......
Esun, Atomic Filament PLA PRO
I recommend you just print up to the 9mm height and test the tail area to make sure it works. If it does not I would lower your extrusion multiplier until it does. Once the tail works the head should also.
For the Neck / Head joint you are going to want to cool off the top of the body as much as possible. Then there is a .2mm gap (except for the stud from the body). Then for the first layer of the head I used MAX cooling and as low as temp I was comfortable to print in. This gives you the best change to not have the head completely bond to the neck and be able to break the neck area free after printing is done.
If you Scale this at all, I am not sure hows the neck joint will work.