If you are making an R-Hop for your Cyma CM.030 (Glock 18C) and you would like to keep your original hop up arm intact, or if for whatever reason you would need a replacement part, this is the model you are looking for.
Use first a 1.3 and then a 1.5 mm drill bit to clear the hole if you print on an FDM printer, but be careful not to break the hinge in the process. You can put the hinge in a vice to prevent it from breaking while turning the drill bit.
I used ABS since I found it being more rigid than PET. I've tried those printed in PETG, but they bend to one side when pressed down by the hopup adjustment wheel. A quick acetone vapor smoothing treatment also helps to improve the material performance.
Don't take my word for it - try it and see which one works best for you. It also depends on filament brand.
Just don't use PLA - it will melt and bend on the first hot day.
- Flat A - original shape, no U-nub, for R-hops and similar. Due to a thin arm it tends to bend.
- Flat B - original shape no U-nub, with a strengthened arm to prevent bending.
- ABS (since it is more rigid than PET and can withstand higher temperatures than PLA)
I tried one printed in PETG, but it would bend to one side