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SKR Pro 1.1 or SKR 1.3 or SKR Mini E3 with Raspberry Pi 3B+ and QEBIDUL LM2596S Buck Converter

by benebrady Jul 11, 2019
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what buck converters was this designed for? Mine are MUCH smaller then the mounting posts

The brand name of the buck converters is right at the end of the title

OK i order this part https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTGRPQG/?th=1 it also did not line up

can you provide a link to the exact part you used?

seems like there are multiple versions of QEBIDUL LM2596S

DZS Elec LM2596 DC-DC Buck Converter High Power Step-Down Regulator Power Module Volt Stabilizer with LED Voltmeter Display Cooling Fin and Copper Cylinder Holder 5A 75W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDV49T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W.SRDbCSYVR14

Apparently, there are several different layouts

OK I tried that one it too does not quite fit the board is now roughly 1/4 inch shorter and 1/16 thinner I can get two screws in on the short end with a little work with an exacto knife the other edge of the board barely reaches the other supports it will work but...

Not sure what to do here given the wide variation in these boards.

btw raspberry pi lines up fine.still waiting on the skr pro

Which buck converter do you want to use? I'll get some and modify the model

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRDV49Twhich is the same one you referenced (I think) ..I will get some measurements for you latter today

inner edge to inner edge 28mm x and 50mm y

Your measurements don't mean anything to me as they are not complete... i need X and Y dimensions from board edge to board edge and I need from center of screw hole to center of screw hole and what the distance is from the edge. i've ordered more LM2596s boards, but apparently they will not be delivered until December 9. So God knows what exactly will be delivered.

Board 37mm x 60mm which doesnt match specs on page
which are
Length: 66mm
Width: 39mm

center to center 30mm x 53 mm
2.75mm x an y from edge

honestly I am fine with mounting with 2 screws and rigging something (washers?) to clamp the other end I think we might be chasing many many part variances here not sure its worth it

does this box fit underneath the cr-10?

or is this a plastic box that sits next to the printer like the original enclosure?

It wouldn't fit under a "normal" CR10, but it fits under mine because I have long squash ball legs under it as well. So, yes.. it would fit beside it like the original case, but it has the option of housing the power supply, Raspberry Pi and Buck Converters and mosfets all in one enclosure with either the display on top or not.

some photos with the final assembly will be welcome

Feel free to print it and take some and post the make for it.

Feel free to print it and take some and post the make for it.

First of all, thank you for your kind reply. !

it is still to expect this month with update for SKR 1.3 display lid, attachment with lower housing etc. ?? THX :-)

Let's see... I have a number of things to do with respect to designs that I'm currently working on to make me some money... The stuff here on Thingiverse doesn't put food on my table or pay my rent so it doesn't get the priority that YOU would like it to get. Now, that being said, I have modified the design and will be uploading it in just a few minutes. I would expect to see a donation from you in the form of a Tip to the Designer or an Amazon gift card to benebrady@gmail.com After all, you go by the handle of "FairPlay4"... so that would be fair.. don't you think?

Yipppy after having served as a trial rabbit, yes, yes :-) :-(

I wanted to rebuild my CR10S (Stock) to SKR1.3
May be that lower part is ok but upper part with display bracket is shit for printing it would have to be something like a clip or with screws to print as a separate part.
As I also noticed that it is impossible to connect it is only held on one side

I will be revising this model over the course of the next few days. The display lid was NOT part of the original design and it was only added to fulfill a request from people who downloaded it. The original design prints very well.

Lid with display bracket printed with effort and every amount of support material.
And no, it's not good.
When the lid hangs up, it is only held by the groove rear part of a few inches and can not be attached to the housing because there is no possibility.
This is not good and I was very disappointed
Time and filament waste.
Before I forget also in case for SKR1.3 missing holes for mounting of 3 fans

I really like this design and I will probably print it soon, but this really looks like it is going to be a tough print with lots of supports. Here are a couple of suggestions -

  1. For the cover with display, maybe separate the slanted display part, and allow it to be screwed into place with captive nuts. That would save a lot of support material and time. The cover itself could be printed with the upper surface on the bed, and possibly eliminate supports for that part. Then the display housing could also be placed with the face on the bed, or the back side, and possibly printed without supports as well.
  2. For the case, the rod that goes along the back for the cover's hinge. Does it really need to go all the way across? Maybe just an inch on each end and then connected to the back of the case leaving most of the span open and so no supports.

Now a real question. What is the difference between the three different cases? Two of the files have the same file name (I think) but different file sizes, and the third has a slightly different name. I loaded them all into a slicer so I could look at them side-by-side, but I can't see any differences.

Thank you for the files.

(I'm on SSI too)

Just right approach I've tried twice to make the cover with a display it's a horror never once succeeded.
I do not know how to do it. I used a lot of fillament for support.
I have almost no fun.
Your suggestion is very good, I hope it is accepted

THX for good work/Job
how should the power supply case connected to/with motherboard case.??
I'm doing SKR1.3 case ready for conversion of CR10S with display cover and fan.
There is also question which size has the fan for cover ??

The power supply gets mounted in its own box along with the mosfets for the bed heater underneath the case for the main board. You simply route the words from the PSU up through the opening at the rear of the box. The fan is 92 millimetres

hi just printing the psu box turn the power switch 90 degrees to decrease printing height. only needs to be 2.5 inches to 3inches if you turn it 90. finished the print box needs to be longer no room for the cables gaps on bottom wider spacing or change direction so screw holes line up to hold the psu or a couple of clips to hold the psu and take about a cm off height if you rotate the power socket

any chance of adding space for psu may be under neath

I have just uploaded it

nice I take it top stacks inside the psu case and there is the gap at the back and can you rota the psu switch 90 or 180 so the switch is not under the cable

I second the comment on adding the mount for the TFT35 display

Hi benebrady, thank you for the great work.
It is possible to have a mount for TFT35 display?

Great Design man, i wish it could be a little more compact so i can print faster =) nevertheless again great design;