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Nicolas_Etheve

Drawer system for Alfawise U30

by Nicolas_Etheve Jul 11, 2019
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Merci pour ces rangements, c'est pas mal du tout :)

Merci pour la photo! Je te serais très reconaissant si tu la mettais dans tes "makes" sur thingiverse :)

There are some questions!

Tag on photo 1:
If you print without filling, will it not be a brittle mount?

Tag on photo 2:
If the same cuts are made in this wall as from the bottom and sides, will the structure lose its rigidity?

And lastly, I have a U30 Pro, and the structural frame is the same as in non-Pro. But I can’t catch the depth of the right boxes to the power supply ... Will it fit?

Hello Nefelisk! Thanks for your comment :)
For your first questions, as long as you don't have under extrusion issue this is really strong enough for its use. With 3 perimiters like in your screenshots there is no problem for the mount to support the weight of the drawer (and what's inside of it). Also due to its shape it has some natural rigidity so printing without infil is okay as long as you have enough perimiters, 3 is a good value for these drawers.
Concerning your question about the U30 pro, the middle box cage is exactly 93 mm deep so you can check on your printer if it will fit or not.
Also I warn you that the left drawers might interfer a bit with the cooling of your motherboard if you have an U30 pro because of the fan but I've seen some pictures of the U30 pro and it seems that this fan would still have enough room to cool the motherboard properly without any issue even if the drawers where mounted.
I hope I was helpfull
If you make these drawers let us know by posting your make ;)

PS: I don't see your second picture, but concerning the rigidity of the frame, I've been using them for a month now and I did not have any issue.

I mean, in the first photo, the numbers 1 and 2.
Number 2 - the wall (top) is solid. If you make the same hole in it as on the bottom wall (bottom) - will it not lose stiffness? It’s just that it will be even faster and even less material will leave.

About cooling.
I attached another 12cm cooler from below, and reduced the speed of the main one, since it was too noisy.

Thank.

Oh I see, If the top of the frame is full it is because I want the drawer to be really close when they are inserted in the frame. This way the inside of the drawer can never infer with the bed movement.And I think it is cleaner this way.
Concerning the rigidity I would say you'll certainly lose some if the top was not full.

Sorry. But I don’t understand how this fragment should be printed if you do not use support. It will simply sag strongly. This is in this case (first photo).

Also, I do not understand how the roof and the bottom should be printed without supports if the outer and inner walls have voids. That is, at the bottom, the inner wall will lie on the outside, without filling (second photo).

All this does not stop me from using the filling. If I doubt, and I could not ask questions, but I wonder how you got it. If we have the same printers.

Hello I am really sorry that you have trouble with my file but thank you very much for showing me these problem. Since I've modified slitghly the file after I've printed them I might have done some mistakes and this is clearly the case in your first photo! I am correcting this model right now and I will update the file when done.
For your other problem, you'll have to set a higher top/bottom value in your slicer. Basically, the flat part laying on your bed will be completely full you just have to set an high enough value for the top/bottom walls number.
I am doing my best to correct the small drawers frame tonight, thank you very much for highlighting this problem!

EDIT: I have corrected the right frame model to have proper bridging at the top of the piece. I've also add holes at the bottom of the piece because there was no need to have plastic here. (top/bottom relative to printing orientation of the piece)

For your other problem consider putting a 1.5 mm value for your top/bottom width setting in order for this part of the piece to be completely full. Let me know if you see anything wrong with the model, I will be happy to correct them. Thank you very much for your time and telling me about the problems you encounter, it allow me to make the models better!

In fact, this is not critical (for me). I’m redrawing your boxes in Fusion 360, because from Blender I have a headache ^ _ ^. And therefore I can change as it will be more convenient for me, thickness or general designs. But, before you corrected the holes (I already looked and agreed that it would print better), you still printed it with your original design and you did it. I wonder HOW?

About filling.
The difficulty is that I am a little greedy and I want to initially choose the best option before embarking on responsible printing of large objects with a large consumption of material. Therefore doubts gnaw at me.
For example, although the difference is not great in the slicer (10 cm of material), but filling the roof of the top and bottom completely (with a wall thickness of 1.5 mm) is higher than filling the entire figure by 10%. But filling the entire figure with the same 10%, in my opinion, will give more strength to the walls over the entire area (screenshots 3 and 4).

In this case, I’m looking for your advice (I’m new to printing, I only have a printer for a couple of weeks and so far have dabbled only in all kinds of figures and household items)

In fact in the original design the bridges at the top where correct. I made a mistake when correcting the model before putting it on thingiverse so it became impossible to print without support. Everything is ok now. And for your question about the infill, if it take less platic to print with 10 percents infil that with a 1,5 mm top/bottom width you should try this way. This could give a better rigidity to the frames ( but there will not be loaded with a ton of weight anyway).

The Middle drawer doesn't seem to be the right size it is a wee bit short and should be taller and seems too deep
I am printing the drawer for the left side now and it seems longer than the left cage which I already printed . The left cage doesn't seem like it is all the way back and maybe too short for the drawer I am printing now. These drawers are really cool and they are just what I need .

Please advise ? Am I doing something wrong ? I used Slic3r to slice the files I dont like Cura because I am stupid to it .

Thank You

Comments deleted.

Hello Wizzardmouse! First thank you for downloading and testing my models.
I feel verry sorry to ear that you're experiencing difficulties making them fit together. I' ll take some time to inspect the .stl files in detail to see if this problem also appears in them.

EDIT 1: I have download the .stl from tingiverse just to be sure that I got the same as you. And I am checking the dimensions.
For the middle drawer, everything seem to be fine. Indeed you have wiggle room in hight but it is just 3 mm in order for the drawer to slide properly. It should not be a big cap like in your picture.For the deepness, everything seems fine also on the file (the middle drawer is 2mm LESS deep than the cage itself so it can be close completely). I will add some pictures below.

Could you please check that the 2 parts at an angle beneath the handle are at 45 degrees? If not it means that you probably modified the Z and Y scale of the .stl file in your slicer. Please let me know about this.

EDIT 2: I have also checked the left drawers and again everything seems fine on the 3D model (2mm of wiggle room in depth, same as the middle drawer and each of the left drawers has a 2mm wiggle room in height).
Could you proceed to the same verification of the handle's angle (should be 45 degrees) in order to know if you changed your scale setting in your slicer?

Now concerning the depth of the cages:
1) For the left cage it should go all the way to the horizontal aluminium piece of your printer.They are 165 mm deep on the 3D file. If this is not the case for your printed model you should check your Z scale in your slicer.
2) For the middle cage it should touch the end of you power supply and its 93 mm deep. Again if this is not the case on your printed model, check your Z scale in your slicer.

Since you've been able to slide the cages properly in the printer frame I would say that your problem only concern the Z scale.

I really hope that this will help you. Let me know if you encounter any other problem or if this did not solve your current one.

EDIT 3: Since you've posted your comments 4 hours ago, one of the left drawer should be done by now. What I think is that your Z scale is set below 100% in your slicer. If I am correct, the left drawer you've just print should be to big in depth to slide in his cage and should not be high enough for it. Let me know

Hello Jauvine, this is a good question. I have included the answer in the print settings.
Also, yeah, you absolutely need to have 3d printed knobs for bed leveling if you want to access the nuts below the bed easily (or even if you want to access them at all) with this system. It works for me and i am leveling my printer regularly without removing the drawers.

Nice expansion set of drawers you've made! How much plastic did it take approx alltogether? I was going to design same kind of drawers on the front there but I'm kind of a mid-print-leveling-guy myself, so I need the space there to properly access the nuts below the bed quickly :)