This is a full dart version of the Viper revolver, with a brand new, dieselpunk and hot rod inspired look. It still holds 8 darts, but now full sized. It can be reloaded by either opening the break and inserting darts into the drum manually or swapping the drum entirely. Serves great as a secondary or primary on HvZ due to its flexible reloading capabilities. Build instructions and hardware list is written below.
Please follow the build instructions carefully as this is a rather short but complex build.
Feedback is very much welcome and though I might not be able to respond to everyone, I read everything. If you run into issues, I'll do my best to help.
I should also note that selling the blaster without permission is illegal. If you are a seller interested in selling and manufacturing Vipers, please contact me directly.
Vanilla and purple
Freedom Blasters Viper Heavy printing and assembly instructions.
Warning 1: There are some differences in the instructions to the original Viper, so you might want to review this.
Warning 2: The build requires some experience in building blasters, so it's not the best first build.
Warning 3: I've been hearing reports that the motor cover can warp on high heat overvolted setups (3s Honeybadgers and the like). If you are running this sort of a setup you might want to use ABS or other heat resistant material for the cover while I'm working on a fix. All the other bits are totally fine heat-wise.
Soldering iron, other obvious nonsense;
Motors: Honeybadgers get you 110 on 2s and 130 on 3s and Meishels give you 80 on 2s. Would appreciate more data in the comments if you try a setup not mentioned here;
Appropriate battery. The tray can support a battery that is about 70x35x17mm in size and since it's not exactly box shaped you could probably tuck the wires to the side quite easily;
Micro flywheels of choice;
Some wiring that isn't needlessly thick. You can check the AWG you really need by looking it up. PC insulation works great here as it doesn't rub on the hinge and is cheaper. Keep in mind that if the wiring is too stiff it might damage the motor tabs;
An Omron switch;
3mm pin material or its nearest imperial equivalent;
Regular Nerf screws but for the best results, use M2.5 or M2.6 flat top Philips head self tapping 10mm long screws. The screw that holds the switch needs to be a bit longer. There is an experimental plastic pin that you could use instead of a pin switch included, but I haven't tested that myself yet. You will need about 15 screws in total;
Two motor screws. Yes, only two;
An extension spring and a compression spring. The extension spring needs to be pretty stiff but no higher than 5mm in diameter. I've used 4x0.4mm spring material. The compression spring should be medium to hard stiffness. You will need two if you want to use an assist spring, otherwise only one.
Battery plug of choice.
Optionally, some barrel material. For that, you will need some painting or electrical tape as well. You probably would get very little of it in there though.
Note that the parts aren't always oriented in the best way to print.
At most 0.25 layer height, 0.20 recommended. For the cam, use 0.15-0.10 for the best results.
Use no less than 3 wall perimeters.
Parts are originally meant to be printed flat, but people have had success printing them at 45 degrees. Do whichever works best for you, but make sure you aren't creating weak points, especially in the nose hinge-cage bottom linkage. That means, you should NEVER print the nose bottom vertically. THIS TIME, ALL PARTS ARE IN PRINTING ORIENTATION BY DEFAULT! YAY ME.
Make sure your layers aren't "mushed" to the build plate too hard - if you lose bottom layers you might end up with some friction in the mechanism and you certainly don't want any of that in this build.
Tree supports do wonders on this build but use whichever you prefer.
S3D tends to mess its tolerances up (it is all adjusted for Cura) by shrinking overall perimeters by about 0.25, so you might want to adjust your Horizontal Expansion setting accordingly. Or, simply use Cura.
The total print time as about 20 hours on recommended settings.
Picatinny rail is optional.
1) The assembly process begins with the nose bottom. Before proceeding, test fit the motors. If you printed everything right, they should fit without much resistance. Otherwise, try sanding. Find the right orientation for your motors. Run positive and negative wire through the long wire channel on the bottom of the part. Solder on the motors. They need to be soldered on very well because if a mess up happens, you'll need to remove a lot of parts to get to them again. Then, slot in the motors while slowly pulling the wire through the channel. Make sure the motors rest against the bottom or something might break when pressing the flywheels in. Never happened to me but it could in theory. I think some people had their HBs break. I personally slot in a flathead screwdriver on the little bump to make sure nothing breaks.
2) Screw in the motors with one screw each and press in and screw on the motor cover. It should press against the motors but not pop out from the surface or it will interfere with the drum.
3) Press in the flywheels on the motor shafts. Use the flywheel tool to make sure you don't press them in too far, or use anything else that can leave 1.5mm of space. Take your time aligning them.
4) Take the Right shell piece and slot it into the hinge on the nose. Cut the pin to length and slot it into the hole. Make sure the wires fall into the slots properly. The reverse "U" shape is for giving wires some room to flex when the hinge is moving.
5) Place the pusher, cam and trigger into place. The pusher is a snap fit. Its tooth also needs to be nicely sanded into a smooth trapezoidal profile. Screw the cam in, but don't tighten it completely. In fact, leaving a somewhat visible gap is totally fine, but don't overdo it because the pusher might start ramming into the drum. Place the extension spring - one end on the top of the trigger, the other - on the top left hole on the very right. I needed to cut it to lengths of about 18 mm but go higher and cut down if needed. You can use a compression assist spring if there is too much friction. Don't forget to cut to length and place the trigger pin.
6) Solder the switch on one of the wires. Keep in mind that the switch is inverted (electricity flows when it's NOT pressed). Then, wire it to the battery along with the other one.
7) Add the battery plug. Don't forget heatshrink. You can test the system if you want to.
8) Assemble the break lock. It uses a far shorter pin and has a compression spring slotted inside.
9) Screw on the left shell piece. Make sure the break lock assembly doesn't fly away and if it doesn't want to close completely some of the pins might be too long. If the pusher is experiencing drag you might want to sand down its slot. Since one of its surfaces goes over supports it might be a bit rough.
10) Screw on the right grip. You might need to clip the screw to length so that it doesn't run into the switch. Insert the battery and close it with the left grip panel.
11) Take the nose top and screw it on the nose bottom. Add the nose afterwards.
12) Add the picatinny rail if you want.
13) Test the break action. If it doesn't quite lock, you might need to sand the tooth down a bit until it locks. Try not to overdo it or it will wobble.
14) Test fit the drum. It MUST rotate completely freely then the break is closed, otherwise the spring will be unable to return the pusher back. If it doesn't you might need to sand interferences off. This step caused the most issues for most testers. It's always best to adapt the blaster rather than the drum. Often, you need to sand the front pin that goes inside the drum if it doesn't have enough room longitudinally.
15) If you want to use barrel material, wind some tape on it until it can firmly friction-fit inside the blaster.
16) All done!