Work in progress. I had designed this after finding a printable feeder and using it under enclosure. ABS printing for instance requires 100-105C bed temperature so after about 1h of printing enclosure temp. rose up to a steady 42C. As the feeder I printed was PLA it bowed under spring pressure. So, determined to reach my goal of getting rid of under-extrusion on my bowden Ender 3 printer i made this.
It's printed in PLA 0.2mm layer and 100% infill.
Top and bottom parts should be printed flat side down.
Latch should be printed flat with supports with a "howling wolf" logo upright (it will then be on the side of your print, bolt hole will be aligned with Z-axis )
It requires some post print cleaning but not much. Make sure all holes are clear. if not use 3mm drill on body and 4mm on the latch.
Use M3 20mm (20mm including head, I bought longer screw and bolt cutter to cut to size) bolt and hex nut to bind top and bottom together using a hole located near bowden coupler. Tighten making sure top and bottom are nicely aligned.
Slide forementioned assembly in between the latch arms making sure the hex hole on the latch is towards the NEMA motor and top/bottom assembly is 3mm (not 6mm) corner holes towards NEMA motor.
Latch should slide freely if not check your print
Use stock Ender 3 feeder idler spring, put it between the latch and the body
*Use stock Ender 3 idler bearing with the latch. Use M4 20mm bolt (including head) and a hex nut to hold the bearing between the latch arms. Press the assembly with spring mounted against a worktop and place the bearing between latch arms trying to push the screw through. Put the nut in the hex hole and turn bolt to keep together.
Now use M3 25mm screws to bolt it tto the NEMA motor.
When it's all tighten up it's time to screw in a bowden coupler. I recommend to buy an upgrade for that as it allows the PTFE tube to get to the bottom of the coupler and a better filament flow. It's best to use flat 6mm key and your thumb and gently screw the coupler in while holding it perpendicular to the side of the feeder while also lining it up with the hole axis. (doable)
Filament guiding tube formed by two pieces of the body pressed together might be too tight ie. due to print settings. Before latch assembly it is advised to drill through with 2-2.5mm drill to open the tube and smooth out any inconsistencies to make the filament flow as uninterrupted as possible.
Because I tried to make the filament bend slightly around the motor cog the filament goes of the straight line between inlet and outlet side of the guiding tube due to tangency of contact between filament and fore mentioned cog. It is advised to cut filament at an angle the way that the sharp end goes against the cog and hits the edge of the outlet part of the guiding tube.
Please be honest in your comments.
Let's make it work
I'm happy to answer any questions