First to say is this is made up of various sets of parts, body, tail, wing etc. I have put links to the other parts on here at the bottom of this writeup. Use part, all (or none) as you see fit.
This paragraph is on all sets of parts to explain what they are part of.
This is all part of an idea I had to make a modular plane based on being able to assemble different wings / tails based on a 25mm round or 22mm square tube 'stick' body. Ideal for anyone wanting to play with different configurations. Based on the idea of a 'stick' plane being an actual stick. I used 25mm plastic conduit but CF tubes would be lighter.
Each one has a PDF file with photos to help visualise things plus more info and instructions. I used 3mm and 4mm threaded bar a lot, you could glue CF rods but I liked the idea of just unbolting to replace any damage. Adds weight but not a massive amount. Some of the photos may be slightly different to the STLs as they evolved a bit.
This makes the plane in the photos, Wingspan 110cm, Length 90cm, Front of wing to Prop centre 20cm, Wing trailing edge to front of tail 32cm. All sizes are not fixed, just recommended averages. CG is about 1/3 from leading edge of the wing but make it closer just in case, again play around, this is meant to be a chassis for whatever you want to do. Weights are Wing 365g and rest of the plane with motor, servos, nose weight and undercarriage (basically as in photos) 650g. Battery is extra, weight is with PVC conduit 'stick' CF would be a bit lighter.
If I make any changes / updates in future I will add them here. If you modify or upgrade any parts (feel free) just link them back to here.
Updates – None.
So, this is the - Battery.
Problem I had was balance on the plane, needed a lot of weight forward so there are two battery holders. Moving the battery forward or back alters the CG depending on your battery weight. Remember slightly nose heavy is better than slightly tail heavy. I glued rubber sheet onto the battery holder and shield for better grip. Print as a perforated grid (see PDF) and you can use a cable tie, or foam block, to stop the battery moving backwards.
Printed in 3 parts, holder and two supports. I did the 3 parts as I found it made for a solider print. Needs to be a good print as the holder is also the motor mount.
The motor bolts onto the front using 3mm threaded bar. The four motor bolts allows the motor angle to be adjusted easily so you can try different settings. (see motor section)
There is a battery shield, in case of bad landings, or you could just strap on some foam.
There are two versions of a motor ESC holder (Square tube doesn't need this) one loops round the tube to give a flat surface, the other is held by cable ties. Just tie the ESC to this.
You can put the ESC in the body if you prefer, or just tie it directly to the fuselage tube.
Nose weight blocks allow easy addition of nose weight if needed. Glue them to the battery shield as in the photos. Two options, one uses 9mm bolts as in the photos so just add nuts till it balances, the other can take flat weights etc held with cable ties. Pack weights with foam and / or tape in place.
Battery holders are 145 and 170mm long. The longer one comfortably fits an ESC on top but unless ESC is small the 145mm is tight, but would be ok for smaller planes.
145mm is about the length of a battery, if you worry about the battery slipping back use a rubber band around it. If using the 170mm one I will stick a small foam block behind it using carpet tape, just in case, not good to suddenly go tail heavy.
The other battery holder allows the battery to be mounted further back, see photos. My original idea before I realised I needed weight forward so published anyway as may be of use. There is a photo of this.
I print the battery parts to be strong and the parts on the 'stick' are wall 1.2mm, top / bottom layers of 0.6mm infill 12%. The battery holder and shield use wall 1.5mm, top / bottom layers 0, infill of abou6 8-10% and infill line multiplier of 3-4 to give strength and thickness. This produces an open grid pattern so you can tie things to it, like ESCs. Forward weight no problem so the extra thickness is no problem, you could add top / bottom layers if you like.
Other Franken Parts –
Control parts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3708544