Thingiverse is currently experiencing issues related to search. We are currently investigating. Thanks for your patience.


MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


Collapsing Dagger (Print in Place)

by 3DPRINTINGWORLD Jun 21, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

i was looking at your lightsaber model and was thinking that a beam saber from mobile suit gundam would be a great idea!

Amazing design! Just printed first one, already have requests for more!

One tiny tip: if you have minor blobbing issues and are too lazy to re-calibrate extrusion: a feeler gauge works great to separate the blade sections! ;)

Hi, the dagger work great except for the fact that the 3 part of the blade tends to not want to come out to its full length. Is there anything I should do? (By the way your pirate sword is my favorite!!!)

Extrusion multiplier/feed rate?

what are the best setting for this file for the middle parts to come out without hassle? i made this but the firs t thing was fused with the dagger.

hi! , i love all your desings, thanks for sharing

im having troubles with this, the third blade always stuck somewhere in the hilt, i print this 3 times, each time more slow and different temps.

Any advice?


Oh, Sorry guys I found the issue. I had the wrong taper on the third blade so it had the proper clearance at the bottom but was too tight at the top. I will update the file tonight!

yaaaaaay! thanks! i will print one this weekend

This sounds like the same issue I'm having. Centre two movable sections work fine but outer sliding section is fused to the hilt. As far as I can tell it's printing fine until the top where it isn't free.

When I get some time I'm going to try recalibrating in case it's an overextrusion issue. If that doesn't help I'm going to look at the Cura option to change settings for an area and see if I can print the very top of that section to be more brittle.

@3DPRINTINGWORLD - any chance of a version with a very slightly shorter third (widest) section?

I looked into it and it looks I had the wrong angle on the third blade. .018" clearance on the bottom but only .011" at the top.... It must be enough of a difference to give you issues. I will update the file tonight.

If the issue is only with the center blade, I would think that it has something to do with bed adhesion. The center blade only has a small contact point with the bed so maybe this is coming loose causing your issues?

Hi John,
Just wanted to thank you again for sharing these awesome swords with us! :)
I have made dozens of the Sith light saber with all kinds off different colored blades, I have even printed blades with TPU! Ha ha! It is very droopy, but it works great and the girls at work love the TPU for some reason... ;o

Anyway, Thanks again bro! :)

p.s. For the TPU Blades, they did slide right through each other too easily. So, I started adding some scotch tape to the end of each part to make the taper work better. This works great! Just add a few inches of tape at a time, and test fit. :)

Wow! Had not thought of TPU. lol Awesome, glad you like them! I still have ideas for a couple more when I get some time...

Right on Bro! :)

I understand that time is the most valuable thing, if only we could 3D Print some extra time! Ha ha!
I want you to know how much joy, enthusiasm, inspiration you have given to us!
Keep up the Great work my friend, and Thanks Again! :D

LOL I just printed the light sabers at half scale. They are really cool small, you will have to try it. The only catch is you have to print the blades in vase mode. I'm going to look at designing them with more clearance so they will print smaller.

Any thoughts on setting changes in case you need to shrink this down? My bed isn't tall enough and I tried shrinking down the pirate sword to 80% and the blade appears to have fused.

I would see it it would still look alright if you only scaled the z.

Thank you so much for the suggestion, I hadn't thought about trying that approach. I'll definitely give it a whirl sometime soon and report back.

Thank you for a very good idea very elegantly executed!

I have printed this twice and both times the third (largest, outermost) section remains fused to the handle. The two inner section come out flawlessly.

The outer-most section is separate from the handle all the way up as far as I can tell but it fused somewhere near the pommel. Both times I have broken the middle section trying to force the final section to detach and leave the handle...

The quality of the print is otherwise the best I have so far managed on my Ender 3! The only thing I'm not 100% on is whether I could better calibrate the steppers as I did it without access to vernier calipers.

If I am otherwise getting a very high quality print, with the smaller two blade sections separate and working straight off the print bed, what could be causing the third to fuse at the pommel?

Thats weird, not too sure...

sound like you are having the same issue as me. I also have the ender 3 but the pro. After my first print it was fused pretty bad so I lowered the temp and print speed. second one I was able to get most of the blade out. I found somewhere in the middle of the hilt during print the blade shifted during print. so im trying my 3rd attempt more to the edge and slow down a little more. hope this helps

Whenever I try to print this, the middle layer and inner-most layer gets fused together. I'm using a Stanley Model 1 (I believe this is equivalent to the Sindoh Model 3DWOX1 as Stanley no longer sells the Model 1), but I'm also new to 3D printing an I'm not sure which settings to tweak in the Stanley 3D software. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

can you create a collapsing buster sword?

Cant really make any sword where the blade is wider then the hilt...

Thank you for your outstanding designs! I've printed a ton of your light sabers but haven't been able to get this to print properly as the blade fuses together even when using coast and wipe. Any tips or tricks for printing with S3D or Prusa Slicer on a Prusa MK3S?

I'm using a MK3 and S3D. Did you see the trouble shooting video I made? Have you calibrated your extruder? Is it fusing at layer transitions?

The handle turned out great...but the blade got stringy and stuck together. Do have you just the blade I could reprint?

I had a similar problem, the handle turned out great but the blade broke when I tried to open it. I'm probably going to make a blade out of wood and glue it in.

There would be no way to get the blade inside the handle?

So this should be printed at course 0.4 mm profile?


Not real important, there is not a lot of infill, 15%.

petping whats the infill

This looks like a cool model, but I've had problems getting it to print. The section with the tip on it tends to fall over mid print, meaning that it is all fuzzy when it finishes. How can I stop this? Also could i print with a smaller nozzle (0.2 or 0.3) to get better results? Great files though!

The tip is very small so you need really good bed adhesion. It depends on your print surface, more squish? I don't think a smaller nozzle will help as the blade thickness is designed for a .4mm nozzle.

You are on fire with these! Well done!


LOL. Printing this right now. Wish me luck!

will this work in an m3d micro?

"as long as it has a big enough volume and a .4mm nozzle I dont see why not." ~ 3DPRINTINGWORLD