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Ender 3 all in one, universal rear electronics case

by TeachingTech Jun 13, 2019
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Another great make but I was looking to see if there was a way to incorporate the cable chains in this design. I was looking at chain designs and they are all for the stock Ender without the modified rear mounted case.

Hi, I love this case. I am building it or an Ender 3 Pro with the stock controller board and a Raspberry Pi 3B+ to run OctoPrint. Question: Is there any reason not to use a 5 volt 40x10 fan connected to the Raspberry Pi GPIO port for 5 Volts? thanks for posting such a great build.

Yes, its pulling too much current for the GPIO pins.
But if you put a pnp transistor in fromt of it, it's ok.

You also have to write some code to the Pi in Phyton to make it work. Or download a program with the manager, which will do it for you.

Can someone remix the the right-hand side of the case for me? In the file all_in_one_ender_3case-_rightcase-_mks_gen_l_or_skr13.stl Ineed those 4 mount point rotated -90 deg. I'm trying to get this modded for a Duet 2 WiFi board. Thanks in advance.

There are lots of concerns about thermals in here, and I was a bit concerned also. I put a temp probe on the Y stepper driver heatsink that was included on the factory board. I also put in a dab of thermal grease to ensure contact. It's been running for half an hour, and the probe hasn't seen anything above 60 or 61 c. Factory fan, with a RasPi 3B running Klipper, so it's generating heat in the air before it gets to the stepper board. TL Smoothers also, but I haven't checked to see how much heat they dissipate. Not exactly lab standard accurate, but 60c is SO far below problem temperatures that there is NO way the drivers are hitting dangerous temps.

I see a lot of makers remade your thing but they did not provide sources.
So please change license type to CC BY-SA or GPL to force makers share also sources like .step not only .stl files

I see a lot of makers remake your thing but the did not provide sources.
So please change license type to CC BY-SA or GPL to force makers share also sources like .step not only .stl files

For those concerned about cooling I suggest just removing the grille work in the design. It doesn't really serve any purpose other than to restrict air flow. I'm using a Noctua fan which already has enough protection. The grille takes up 260 mm^2 of the fan opening. The area of the current 35 mm hole is 964 mm^2. The grille reduces outlet area to 700 mm^2. That's a huge restriction on airflow. Simple matter to just nip it off.

If you haven't printed it yet, consider enlarging the hole to 38mm which is the diameter of the opening in a Noctua 40x10mm fan. With no grille, the total outlet area is then 1134 mm^2. That's about a 60% improvement in outlet area over the smaller hole with grille.

Might be enough to avoid a second or larger fan. To be fair, Michael has said he's done several 14 hour prints with this mod without heating problems. Nevertheless, the Noctua fan has been optimized for low noise and airflow. It seems a shame to do anything that restricts that.

Anyone know of a remix that has grills on the IO side and a fan slot on top?

Any chance for SKR MINI V1.1 + Raspberry pi zero w Remix???
I apreciate
Printer:Creality Ender 3

Hi Michael! I love this design, I've put on on my own Ender 3. I was curious if you've considered making an alternate Pi housing for using a Zero W instead of a "full-size" version like the Pi 3. If not, I'll go ahead and remix it. Thanks!

you defiantly need a fan on top one the drivers because i have had the fan where it was designed to go and also tried the fan where the frame is cut out for the wires, but still get X and E drivers over heating when doing a test cube.

Hello! Does it fit the Ender 3 Pro?

yes.. I have it mounted on my Ender 3 Pro.


  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App
Comments deleted.

printed this and it is a nice solution but after the first test print my X axis driver is over heating .
I see there are a few fan solutions for the drivers but i am wondering if anybody has tried cooling the drivers down by putting a fan in the frame cut out where the wires used to run?
would this work as well as keeping the fan in the corner in the pi part of the case?

Ive printed this, and its too big, the 2 parts dont slide if you dont sand them, and its impossible to fit the lid, there is no room for it, has anyone had this prolem ? my calibration cube are ok, not oversized.

I had the same experience. I posted a make with some comments.

Calibrate your printer

Hey has anyone figured out how to power the rapsberry pi via the microusb connector with a buck converter installed?

you could solder to the pads on the bottom of the pi for the micro usb

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

He made a video about that -> https://youtu.be/yW9ovo9CHi0

But I think he upgraded it more, as there is space for a relay. I would take another switch outside for the relay and use the relay for the power of the printer, so you just use the additional switch to turn on/off your printer and you dont kill your raspberry every time ;)

That's what im doing actually, using a relay that's directly connected to my printer's power cable to toggle power to its PSU. But my pi actually isn't being powered off the PSU, but it's own power supply with a switch. However, with this case I notice that I don't have enough room to fit the microusb connector (as it's a straight angle and not a right/left angle connector) because of the buck converter. I saw that TT has the pi being powered by the GPIO connectors, but I don't really want to do that because if the power suddenly spiked, the pi would instantly die.

Maybe you could change the model and put the step down where the second relay would go..

I was thinking of making some sort of riser to place the buck converter high enough to allow the cable to plug in correctly, though there's still the issue of the actual power cable having to make a really sharp turn in order to exit the case.. so I went ahead and ordered a right/left angle adapter to mitigate both problems

You will have trouble with the Y axis stepper conections, i end up cutting trough the lid.

Did you watch the video? There are cutouts for them.

They don't mean the wires, but the actual connector. The connector to the motor is underneath, and on an Ender 3 its recessed into the Y Axis, so when the lid is on, the edge of the lid is under the connector. I think the best solution is to turn the motor so the connector is pointing out (turn 90), it think the reason it is pointing down is for wire safety.

so i haven a case for my pi that came with a fan i wanted to know if there a case that im able to use both pi fan and printer fan

Im using both, in the pi case i printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1759396 to attach the raspberry normal fan

For the mainboard case, i printed this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3801410

40mm to 30mm Fan Adapter
by Galane
Ender 3 all in one, right fan+bltouch and left bighole for picam
by Pelesa

Im not that great at modeling yet. Could someone remix just the PI side to use it by itself. I will leave the main board in the front I just want to mount PI, Buck, and maybe a relay. Thanks

Check this out. A really quick and hacky remix. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3811186

Ender 3 all in one, universal rear electronics case - Pi Side By Itself

I have searched as much as I could and I couldn't find an matching model. Could someone please point me to a version of the SKR 1.3 case, with the cable chain mod added, but having no other changes from the original?

I love this mod! I've watched the video several times waiting for the MKS Gen L board to arrive. So excited to try it.

Regarding the pin 27 board, I must be the only person to have this issue, but I can't even get to the point of worrying about its height. The pin 27 board won't fit in the case at all. The notch on the board is facing out and looking at the pin 27 board, that requires the length of the board to also face out. There's nowhere near enough room for the length of the board to fit. Am I the only one with tthis problem?

I tried mounting a Rasberry Pi but the holes in the Pi are M2.5. and the mount holes are M3. Is there another fastener I should try? Thanks.

M3's fit into the raspi's mounting holes. Snugly, but they definitely fit.

Given it the 2.5 you have in the rear end, and a hot glue just before you put them in. This will keep it in place.

I'm running the new Creality 1.1.5 board, are the TL drivers needed?

Nop, you have TMC2208 driver with this motherboard. Doesn't need smoother anymore

would like to see a top with just a 40 mm fan above the stepper motors.

Ender 3 all in one, right fan+bltouch and left bighole for picam
by Pelesa

Thanks for this thing. I modified the Right lid, adding a 80mm Fan to cool the driver board a bit more.

But in my opinion it fits way too tight, I had to add some grease and file the edges a bit so it could fit in.

I ran into that also. I posted a make.

NOW.... thats a fan!

Sorry, can someone describe the purpose of having the relay in the raspberry-pi section? If the buck is connected thru the 24v power supply and puts out 5v for the Pi, what is the relay doing?


To turn off power supply to 3Dprinter

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense given the discussion on concerns about the relay's capability. I did not see any "recommended" solution that met the concerns on the total amps the Ender could draw. Will go back and look again.



Well if you power your Pi from a usb supply (2.5A) then you should insert the relay on the 230V side. So there will be no standby current of the power supply, and the power current on this side will only be 1A.

This will also give you the advantage of controlling your pi via:

  1. An app
  2. push switch (for on/off) on the side/top
  3. web interface

If someone's interested, I added a 80mm Fan for the right lid:


Right Lid with 80x80x15mm Fan
by Osmodia


I printed your lid with 80mm fan and no problems. I assume that you want that fan to be pushing air into the right box? I initially mounted it sucking out and realized that I could locally impact the bed temperature.


Hi Mark,
thanks for your feedback. Yes, I think pushing cool air in the box is way more effective. I have my enclosure completely mounted now, and have the 80mm Fan running at 5V.
It is super quiet and the whole box is being cooled, because the Air is getting pushed out through every hole in the case ;)
I did not concider impacting the bed temperatur if you mount the fan the upside down, how much degrees did it change?



Going to assemble things today. Did you mount the fan in the box or on top? On top, my 10mm seems to interfere with the y stepper and I was worried there wasn't enough space to put it in the box with all those wires?



I'm running the skr board with tmc2208 drivers. The x axis died a few days ago. It has a short between VM and GND. I'm thinking it could be a thermal problem. Because it seems, that another driver died.
Is this design really good enough it terms of air flow?

I had some concerns too, thats why I designed the right lid with a 80mm fan:


Right Lid with 80x80x15mm Fan
by Osmodia


Any thought of modifying it for the MKS Gen 1.4?
It would be appreciated if you can.

Thank you

Please, I could use this too!!!!

This is a wonderful upgrade to mount aftermarket control boards in. Just finished printing the 4 parts that I needed.
I have 2 recommendations for changes to the box for SKR 1.3 board.
1st: Increase the height of the spacer/standoffs by 1mm, component pins on underside of board come into contact with case bottom.
The board bends if screws are tightened down to bring circuit board into contacts with pegs.
2cnd:Where the left and right side boxes join together. an M3-16mm screw works fine for front connection, an M3-20mm screw is required for the rear connector. I went to every hardware supplier in my town and the longest M3 screw I could buy was 16mm long. If you made the front and rear connectors to accept a 16mm long screw it would be much handier.
That's it, otherwise a beautiful concept that allows much variation in electronics.
Thank You very much.

I'll joint to that. Thanks.
Printed my lid in PLA, they now look like at bowler hat. Or and old chese :O) Would it be possible to add some height to them, so the lid is a little more thick?

will it fit in the front instead of the back? I don't want to leave that square hole after stock board

Print the "front cap" part.

I was actually going to add a little drawer in that spot.

How can i Power the RPI with a external Power Supply?

I just extended the left side rear wire slot a bit and ran an external power supply to my rPI.

Hey Teaching Tech can you make a place for a electronic fan??
Thank you In advance

Has anybody remixed this with a slot for the pi camera cable?

I'l joint to that. Missing a slice in the lid to the camera :O)

Ender 3 all in one, right fan+bltouch and left bighole for picam
by Pelesa

This is one of the remixes which says it is the same dimensions but he added a mount for the fan so it can blow out the back. I'm not sure if the photograph I've uploaded will show here, but the base of this is flush with the table the Ender sits on. I don't see how the bottom holes will allow any air flow. Am I missing something? Is there supposed to be something underneath to lift it off the table?

According to your picture, you have to do some serious tweaking on that printer. Unless you did it in 20min.

It is PETG if that makes a difference and yes, I’ve calibrated flow since then and the speed was a little fast (I was impatient).

YES, I know the feeling he he. I have set my Ender up to 100ms. I takes to freaking long to print anything.

If it hang in the middel, put a piece of rubber under it. Looks fine.

What relays are you using for these mounts?

I would strongly advise not to use KY-019 for this purpose.

They are rated for max 10A at 30VDC and the Ender 3 will draw more than that.

Using those relays is a potential fire hazard.
See these comments for a discussion about this problem: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3063845/comments

AiO Ender 3 Octoprint Set Up with Power and Light Remote Control

I've actually used the KY-019 relays (albeit it was a dual channel relay), they handled the direct 24V current just fine when I hooked it up directly to the power cable that I use to connect to the printer

He is using KY-019, which are 5v. I am interested if it will need any modification, because some 5v relay boards aren't working with RPi

Thank you! Ordered, will report back once they arrive

No problem, thank you too

I was so pumped about printing this and installing.
I printed left side for raspberry first.
first fail. the lugs to screw in to just fell off..
They also don`t seem to be the correct spacing. Was I meant to scale the stl or something?
I guess there is no chance of getting a copy of the source files, so I can modify to suit?

will the new 32bit th3d tough lite board fit in either of the two options?

Given its meant to be a drop in replacement it should fit in the Melzi version, you could chck by making sure it fits the holes in the original case before printing.

would this work for a cr10s? if not could someone make a remix that would?

Michael, Great work on this one. There are a few small issues but nothing someone cant overcome. Since your community here and on youtube asked for a drawer set to fit in the font I went ahead and made one up for the ender 3 pro. Ill have to work on the standard ender if its requested. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3708057

Ender 3 Double Drawers Left and Right using all in one rear case.

Consider this a request for the standard ender :)

It's done and uploaded. You'll have to let me know how this fit up is. I pulled the GitHub file for the standard ender so it should fit.

Fantastic! Thanking you very much.

I'll deffo let you know how it fits - but might not be able to start printing immediately. As part of the 'motherboard move', I've also upgraded from a standard creality mb to a MKS Gen L mb, and am having trouble getting the X/Y endstops working. As soon as that's sorted I'll print and let you know!

Are you plugged into the lower 2 pins? I had no issues getting mine running on the gen l

Yeah, plugged in on the lower two pins (min). For some reason it shudders and judders - am going to do a M119 check to verify that the signal is being passed, and possibly take the plastic cover off the wires and replace with the much smoother dupont cover which might be the difference between a good/bad connection.

The fan system is not enough to cool down the TMC2208 on a SKR v1.3 :( cool design otherwise

Im running one noctua 40x10 12v fan and I never get any OT warnings from the 2208s.

Thank you for the information. I decide to print this design instead https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3604203/remixes.

Ender 3 SKR 1.3 case w/ MOSFET, buck converter, and y-damper

I found it after posting also printing already

This does not fit my ender 3 pro! Why? I am using the standard board.

It looks like it might not be slotting in properly on the sides. I have an E3P and mine fits perfectly. Make sure the wings are sliding into the extrusion on the sides, the top rail.

same problem here :(
ender 3

Exact same problem here... bottom of the boxes bow way down. And the hump for the pin 27 board version lid interferes significantly with the center rail. Bummer. I was pretty excited to get the "pro" version electronics into a more accessible location. It is there for now, but feels like a square peg jammed into a round hole.

I have the same issue on my Ender 3 Pro. I have to make it "bow" slightly to get it to fit. It's extremely tight. I'm going to sand down the wings to release the tension.

Comments deleted.

Anyone know if the Geeetech A10/A10m are the same size and can use this case?

Someone please remix it with this one:


Bigger case, center fan for direct cooling, but it needs TT's left fan intake (probably vertical w/ bigger case) to have air going from left to right, and 2x buck mounts / relay mount.

Ender 3 Case Control Board MKS Gen L with 2208/2130 steppers - Raspberry Pi 3B

I'm still working on this one but here is my DRAFT. Please note, I'm still working on it and haven't printed (tested). I plan on start print test today. I have my Raspberry Pi outside my enclosure however I kept the left side in case I may need it later. Right now I plan to use it for cable management and limit cabling to the right side. Also, my design require a USB Adapter since I repositioned the MKS Gen L card 90 degrees. I placed extra loops for ties (cable management). Feel free to update / alter if you see fit.

PLEASE NOTE: The fan duct portion of the lid is backwards, I need to fix however I'm leaving here so you can see my (borrowed from other remix) intentions.

I printed the fixed lid, but it doesn't fit. It's offset a little from the fan, but more importantly the front opening of the duct is too small to fit over the fan holder of the base.
That said, if been eying a slim 120mm fan that appears to fit nicely over the entire box, just needs some mounting...

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

i have mks gen l . xzy with tmc2208 and lv8729 on E.. will it be too hot with this mount? i have printed but havnt moved part yat.. anyone so have tried?

I want to know the same question! Any help?

Will this work on the ender 3 pro?

Comments deleted.

Great design. I am running TMC 2130 in SLI Mode. It’s quite a tight fit but works. But I have an issue with powering the raspberry. I see no chance of fitting the micro usb cable. Any solutions for that?

I have a bunch of blank micro usb male ends that i can solder wires too. Nice and compact with out the flexible covers on them They are supper cheap and good to keep around.

I am curious as to the relay board to use in this configuration. All I could find were 28v 10amp relays when the Ender 3 power supply puts out 28v at 15amps. If anyone can link a suitable relay board, I would really appreciate it.

Those are still 10A relays (at least at 250VAC). Any pointers to similar sized relays that support 20A, with things like this I prefer to err on the side of caution.

Has anyone tried this case with a MLS Gen L board with TMC2130's in UART mode? I think that the case will be to short to accommodate the wiring.

I was able to fit 2208s with UART just had to bend the pins down 45 degrees to clear the cover, the connectors are too tall. I dont have cooling issues with a decent heat sink and a single noctua fan in the box. I also sealed up all the gaps under the box with some electrical tape to keep air flow passing through the case.

I tried. There's place but it's too small and the thermal flow is not enough to cool the drivers. I saw many over-temperature warnings. This is with BIQU drivers (not the best at all). But I think any TMC2130 needs a fan blowing to the heat sinks directly.

The parts printed great. My only complaint is that the holes for attaching the two halves are fine on the half where the screw just slips through but the part that the screw needs to thread into is the same size so there's nothing to thread and the screw can't get a bite.

I'm using M3x20mm on one side and M3x16mm on the other.

I printed this over the weekend and got to work installing it last night. My z-stop cable from the stock mainboard is about 6" (15cm) long and is the only cable that isn't long enough to reach its destination. I didn't see anything in the video about this issue, so I'm wondering if this is just a
"Creality made them with short cables that week" issue. Now that everything is at the back, I wonder if I can switch out the y-stop cable and make it work.

Fixed. By switching the z-stop and y-stop cables on the main board (and splitting the ribbon cable a bit) I was easily able to reach the Y and Z limit switches and achieve the neat cable arrangement shown in the video. I'm printing now!

Nice fix mini_dirk. I had the same problem and was just about to splice in some extensions to get the z-stop connector over to where it needs to be and stumbled onto your solution. Thx.

I hope you don't mind - but I've had a tinker (pun intended) and added an additional exhaust fan vent for the main board. Excuse how crude it is. I have not tested it yet. I figure this will help pull air over the drivers. There should be sufficient air gaps around the mainboard USB port hole, the air vent on the side (I've blocked 2 of those up so the air has to travel from the farthest vent hole over much of the board) and from the gaps around the USB ports on the pi side. Tempted to add an intake hole next to the mainboards USB port but will see.

Question, is the new exhaust fan intended to push air in or out (I expect out)? Suggestion, wouldn't it be better to put the fan on the lid for better flow rather than being blocked by the table surface. Just a thought.

I'm brainstorming and looking for a single options (with adequate cooling) since my raspberry pi is located outside my enclosure. What are you using to remix? I need to be more productive and contriibute to the community.

I was just using Tinkercad.
the second fan is the same as the one on the pi side, where it is designed to suck hot air out of the enclosure. On the fan lid you end up the with the same problem the original Ender 3 (non-pro) has where filament and debris can fall or be sucked into the fan. I might edit the file to put a grill next to the main boards USB port to allow airflow to come over the board and drivers.

Thanks for the effort involved in making this. I do have a concern over the air flow, or lack-thereof especially for the TMC drivers. Has anyone tried using a server cooling fan? I have a bunch of: v40w12bs1m5 fans that are 'spare'. They're loud as F on 100% - but they wouldn't need to run at 100% as they flow a LOT. Something like attached pic.

Better keep that printer in a soundproof room if you're gonna start adding jet engines to it!

12 hour print completed. .1LH, millions of retractions and zhops, no issues. It is of note I have one 42-40 stepper driving dual Z via timing belt with .3 zhop enabled. That should have overtemped the melzi if it were going to do so. Ambient in the house is about 73F. Stock Ender 3 40mm case fan. Also have a direct drive extruder with bondtech gears.

I think we can put the overtemp concern for the stock board to bed now. The rest, beats me. Hopefully the folks that own those boards can print/test & provide results.

With the TMC2208 it runs hot, at least for me and that´s a fact. It started with missing steps on the extruder as the driver was to hot so it did not have the power to move it.

You have the a4988 drives which runs cooler and also a Bondtech which in turn reduces the force on the extruder even more.

So Yes, I do believe its working fine for you but that doesn't mean that it works for ale the other setups also.

I redirected the fan flow to go directly over the steppers and now its great. Just need to print a new lid as my setup is highly temporary right now with the new fan placement.

Have you adjusted the potentiometer on the drivers for the proper output? Sounds like you have them adjusted too high. You should not have to rely that much on cooling. Do your motors run hot??

Are you using the Melzi board with the tmc drivers? Or the stock melzi board?

Ya the a4988s run lots cooler. My worry is with the tmc drivers.

Ah, so. Well, good luck! Please post the results here for the community once you figure it out!

Nice mod. But does not work with pin27 that comes with the BLTouch. Can't get the lid on and one of the connectors got bend in the process. Even with the pin27 lid. The fit is way to tight. Also when working without buckconverters you still need to powerup the rasPi. So external cable slot would be nice. I think it would be better if the creality mainbord is mounted on the right or in the middle (if not using TL Smoothers) and not on the left. There is not enough room.

I'm running into the same issue. (No, Pelesa your remix won't work because it's not a lid issue it's where the mainboard sits).

Anyone else with a BLTouch have a work around?

Ender 3 all in one, right fan+bltouch and left bighole for picam
by Pelesa

How did you get the pin 27 board itself in the case? On mine, it has to face towards the side extrusions and there's nowhere near enough room for the board and the 3 pins to extend to the side that far as the board is right up against the edge of the case.

Well, just sold the Ender 3 and bought a Prusa i3 MK3S. Problem solved!
This original mod for the Ender 3 Pro is not very good. Teaching Tech forgot everything for the cooling. Dont use is mod. Look for a good remix. There are far better designs out there.

looking at your pic about the pin 27 adapter board. can you solve that issue by just soldering a 90 degree 3 pin header to replace the vertical one?

edit: yes indeed the pin 27 adapter is too high for the cover to fit properly. I solved this by removing the socket and pins for the lcd from the adapter. I also removed just the socket from the creality board and left the pins. Then soldered the pin 27 board directly to the creality board using the pins from the creality board going directly through the adapter board. I also used a 90 degree 3pin header for the other connection ,This left plenty of room for the cover to install properly.

Hi, I have also a Pro version with a pin 27 adapter. Any idea on how I can avoid soldering? BTW caphead how did you take just the socket from the creality board? Did you have to cut it with a tool?

you can just pull the socket up .. slowly wiggle it. You can get it started by prying up from the bottom with something thin and flat between the plug and board, they come off pretty easily. But... in the files section he added a cover with space for the pin27 board. its the last file before the stp file that might work out for you

you can just pull the socket up .. slowly wiggle it. You can get it started by prying up from the bottom with something thin and flat between the plug and board, they come off pretty easily. But... in the files section he added a cover with space for the pin27 board. its the last file before the stp file that might work out for you

thanks! so the socket is somehow glued to the board and is totally separated from the pins right? Regarding the cover with space for the pin27 board, there are comments in this thread that it does not fit on and ender 3 pro because of the wider Y axis extrusion.

It's just press fit around the pins, not glued at all. Just wiggle it off with a bit of upward pressure

This is too funny! I modified your original upside down case for the skr 1.3 and I've been meaning to do exactly what you have here. Saved me a ton of work! Nice job as always!

Maybe this is a stupid question but I did a quick check and didn't see an answer. How are you powering your Pi now? I had mine in an enclosure where the power port was easily accessible but it will not be with this. Thank you.

Hi smurfsvt,

I used removed the guts out of a Cana Kit 5v 2.5a power supply and hard wired it to the power switch then to the R-pie.

That's what the Buck Converter is for...

Sorry, this is more of a long answer for smurfsvt: The Buck is useful for any electronics which are not rated/cannot handle 24 volts which the Ender runs with. The buck allows you to drop the voltage down to 12 volts for a noctua fan for instance or 5 volts for raspberry pi's and and 5V noctuas. If you want to add something with a lower voltage, the buck will make it possible without frying your electronics! Thank you Jake.

This is Beautiful! If anyone creates a remix for the Duet Wifi, comment here and let me know!

I 3rd that. Came here to see if it had already been remixed for the Duet 2 WiFi board. Looks like I may have to do it myself...

I second that. I could use the R-pie side for 2 Mosfet.

Thank you for a nice design! Just what I was waiting for :)

But, I have no tested it and it does not give enough cooling to the stepper drivers on a MKS Gen L. I printed a 15 minute print and they are so hot that you barley can put your fingers om them.

I like the idea but will have to look on some way to get proper cooling because this it unfortunately not enough.

A really great design. Thank you.
Since i want to put in an SKR 1.3 with TMC2208 stepper drivers i'd like more cooling in that area, so i'll wait a while for modifications (an extra fan there/a bigger fan a few degrees tturned?) But this is a great design!

i wrote already in the comments of youtube , but might just well do it here to be sure , could you please add holes for the fysetc f6 and think of implementing a duct for the driver cooling ? great job btw !

just spent the last few weeks looking for something like this thanks i had almost given up

Would this work for the pro version ?

Comments deleted.

Check the video, he clearly states it does

I don't have an ender 3, but I love the way you help the printing community.

Nice design. I am concerned that the PI hole would be where the fan draws air and that would prevent air draw from the other half of the box especially if a Pi was not being used. Any thoughts on doing a "single sided" version for those of us who do not want to deal with the Pi??

That works also. Wish I had thought of that...

When I printed mine I used support which filled the unused holes. Still easy to remove if I ever need them.

So I just published plugs as a remix to this if someone wants to omit the Rasp Pi and use the MKS board (no SD slot)

Just stumbled upon this and it is brilliant! The first upgrade box for the front of the Ender 3 was a great start but this is exactly what I was ultimately wanting to go to. Thank you for making this happen and all the experimentation you have been putting into the Ender 3!

maybe create an extra variant of lid covers to mount an 80mm x 100mm fan on the top? these are super quiet and provide alot of airflow.

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or maybe just rotate the fan 90° so that push the air outside and not downside, with a little hump on the lid we can accommodate even bigger fans

Do you think having the fan at 45º and adding vents to the front of right case be enough?

Im surprised this would provide enough airflow for the tmc drivers

I have been struggling with my poor 3D skills to create just such an enclosure myself. Very nearly finished my version of the MKS box Micheal created. Glad to see a professional job to build upon. Thank you Micheal.

I do however share littleferris’ concerns about cooling so I’ll probably be remixing this great design soon to add an extra fan or two. Got myself some ultra silent (19dbA) fans so that will be great :)

Second reason for my plans to remix is the RasPi camera cable. Probably will need to find a new spot to mount it as well but hey, it’s a hobby ;)


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