print bearingouterPart.stl, and then print calibration tool to show how much the inner part needs to be undersized. then look at stl files included for the one that is undersized the amount the tool shows.
i created my own version of a 110mm bearing. this requires several redesigns, and finally i came up with what worked. a video of it working is here https://youtu.be/ADo78XmgUA4
however keep in mind friction on these is still higher than an actual bearing. so adjust motor power accordingly. for me saving 40$ for the actual bearing was worth it.
correct use of bearing is with screws facing up. this allows the bottom flat edge of inner part to support outer part
2 screws are used to keep part together from vertical stress, vertical load is meant to be downwards only, and gravity and weight of item is used to limit motion and rotation to only z axis. if printed correctly should have reasonably tight tolerances. max load rating is a guess at 5 to 20 lbs depending on infill percentage, only tested in pla.
i also created a printable tool so a user could see what inside bearing they should use.
1) print out calibration tool
2) print outer part
3) download inner part value, or create it in openscad
4) print inner part, repeat as needed.
inner parts are labeled as micrometers. so 500 micrometers is like 0.5mm. the tool outputs in mm to undersize.
as time permits i'll be uploading undersized inner bearing parts to print based on calibration settings of machine
look at the image of the calibration tool
instructions are print out tool to know how your machine separates lines. this needs to be precise. see if you can lift up different areas of the wheel as the inside parts are different spaces away from outer circle, when it is far enough away, look at the number on the top of the section that separates. i would go about 1-2 settings thicker.