MakerBot Print is our newest print-prepration software, which supports native CAD files and STL assemblies,
allows you to interact with all your printers via the Cloud, and many other exciting new features.

Download Now


OneWheel+XR FATBOI Fender

by cutzish Jun 5, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

how did you join all 4 pieces together? just glue?

Glue and I used a soldering iron to melt together the underside. The idea was not to overglue it. In the case of a small fall, the top would just break off and in a best case scenario you could glue it togheter, in a worst scenario you can reprint the necessary part(s). In the case of a big fall- like drop it on the top, then it's a different story. The thing is that it can't be made strong in 4 parts joined togheter and in PLA. But then again, the FM fender breaks quite easily. If you want durability, try the model slpit in 2 and print it in TPU. But if you're like me and don't have the printbed, then.....

I have the cr-10 i believe i can print the entire thing i was just worried that it would need so much support, my model only showed support in the middle/center of the done and i was worried that the sides leading uo to that would collapse before it made it to the supports, maybe ill try the 2 piece,

Just do it man! I’d like to see it in 1 print..... . In 2 pieces is quite easy if you have the space, no supports actually. As for the 1 piece it should be possible without collapsing. I remember I printed a 15 cm moon and only had to worry about bed adehsion , otherwise a sphere ( or a dome in this case ) is printable as 1.
2 tips for you: print without infill and without that “ensure perimeter solidity” thing( you skip all those rapid short movemenrs that can rip the model off the plate. And second, have min 4 perimeters, preferable 6. That way you’ll have a bigger contact section between one layer and the next.
Good luck!

Alright ill try it tonight, i think it said it was like 136 hours

THIS LOOKS GREAT!!!! Is there anyway you could make one for the pint? or could you attach the original design file, so I can edit it?
pretty plz?

For the pint version I would need a Pint, and don't know anyone with one yet( I'm in Europe btw). As for the original design file- we don't need to go into details, but I did it in Archicad and I don't think the .pln file would do you any good. I'm really not trying to be difficult.

But I may have an idea:
ianjohnson used Oneshape to recreate it from the .stl and then split it into 2 pieces( those that are now linked in the files). I have no experience in Oneshape but you could give it a try. In the end it's a sphere with some cuts....

What print orientation did you use? The "back" part is completely floating in the air, except for that lip on the bottom

Just like that... with supports , printed fine, didn't increase the time that much. Set your supports to have a huge angle so that it will not try to create them for the rounded part of the piece, just for the horizontal overhanging. I know that the supports give you a ''bad'' surface, but it's underneath so who cares.... :)

BUT, if you intend to print with anything softer than abs, I recommend you to cut that ''lip'' in the slicer software and print without it ( small rocks can pe ''pushed'' into it and the layering doesn't help). I think I wrote in the description as well

I added 2 more variants- one without the Xs and one simple , just a ball.
Both as one piece and as 2 halves- for the lucky few who have a large enough printer

As 1 solid smooth print

Wow, that is quite fast actually. Half the time it took me( printing the 4 parts)

YEEESSS!!! Awesome! You're the best! I have a CR-10S 400 and I'll be printing it on its side with minimal supports (very small amount actually). Will show pictures soon :)

This is sick!!! And I want to print it. BUT... would you be able to upload it as a single model (instead of multiple, separated parts)? I have a printer large enough to print it as one piece :) It would be GREATLY appreciated!

I do also think that one without the "X's" would look amazing too! :D I like the lines though!

I'll see to it. But what about the supports? the way it's now it doesn't require a lot of supports( appart for the bottom part), regardless of what the slicer will tell you. How do you plan to print it- I'm curious? And what printer do you have?

I am printing one now I will be sure to post photos =)

Looking forward to it. Hit me if I can assist you in some way

I really like the shape of this one. Could you pots a version without the stitches? I like the smooth shape of the curve, and it would print more cleanly as well. The slicer sees the need for top and bottom layers within the engraving which adds extra travel. Otherwise it can be done with smooth unbroken perimeters and no travel moves for most of the print.

I would also love a version with a single split up the middle. Many people have CR10s which can fit an entire fender on its side. Doing it this way would allow the print direction to be the same across the entire fender rather than sideways on the ends and lengthwise on the top.

Comments deleted.

Hey man, I like your work.

About the stiches... do you mean just the Xs or also the recessed seams between the parts. I didn't check for travel really- this was the first go and wanted to see it done.

The model split in 2 down the middle will give the best joint and the difference in layer orientation bothers me a bit. But I painted it in

I actually worked a little for this so that even people with Ultimaker can print it. So a little work for those more ''gifted'' is no problem. I could split it down the middle but I feel that in that case maybe the OW engravings should also go.

Good inputs I must say, I'll see to it in the next week or so

I could never print my fender in TPU because it got too wobbly in the upper layers. This one might be thick enough to work, so I'm giving it a try.