This is a 4 piece model set for print and replacement of the controller mounts on the DJI Spark Remote Controller. It works by using rubber bands to pinch a rigid device.
This design also requires 8 dowel pins or screws to firmly secure the parts to the controller hinges.
While DJI's mounts did not help with securely holding the device, this one firmly holds it at the mercy of rubber bands (up to 6mm wide & 5mm thick) and the device's rigid flat edges. By choosing the appropriate rubber band/s, and allowing the device to be held by only the upper portion, devices up to 17cm ish wide (device height) could be used with these mounts. The smallest width it can support is 12.4cm wide (device height) (6th/7th photo).
By using a Torx T6 screwdriver to remove the 4 screws (2 per side), I was able to remove DJI's mounts and access the main hinges (last photo).
I used carbon fiber PLA filament (requires wear resistant nozzle) because I needed the mounts to be strong and rigid to handle the strain caused by the rubber bands.This was the hardest part of the process because the parts are small and need to be very precise in order to fit the controller hinges. I also had to print with supports.
After the printing process, because I hadn't used a hot enough temperature and/or slow enough speed, I had to clean the areas which came into direct contact with the controller hinges using a Dremel drill fitted with a 1mm cylindrical burr diamond drill bit.
Furthermore, because I hadn't designed the models with printing tolerances, I had to carefully clean out the dowel pin inserts with a 5/64" Dremel bit. This took the most time because I didn't want to over-widen the holes so I routinely checked the fitting with the dowel pins (3rd photo).
Speaking of dowel pins, this design requires use of 8 dowel pins of various sizes (2nd photo). I used (4) 2x30mm, (2) 2x20mm & (2) 2x15mm dowel pins purchased from here: www.ebay.com/itm/152613493890.
I imagine that screws might be easier to work with. But the 15mm dowel pins cannot be replaced with a screw because the drive head will interfere with the rubber bands...
If there was too much resistance pushing the pieces together, I stopped, took it apart and continued with widening out the holes before testing it again. I found that having 2 dowel pins on one piece and 2 on the other piece and then pushing it all together was most successful. I used the flat part of a pair of pliers to push in any of dowel pins happening to stick past the holes.
I cut some thin 2mm ish sticky foam to put on arms in order to make it level with the actual controller edge. You can see them in the 4th photo.
I used (3) 90mm x 60mm rubber bands for my case. Stretched them out to have them thinner when putting them in.
The final result is more compact, secure and allows mounting of the device with its case still on. The only contra is I cannot recharge my phone or use an OTG cable, but I do not miss these things because at the moment the market does not offer a slim enough right/reverse angle connector for my device to make operation comfortable in such a remote controller. I find the advantages trump the disadvantages.