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4d-Staunton Full Size Chess Set Box

by PerryT Feb 6, 2013
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Box 3 Still Missing???

You did not include box 3, that stl needs to be uploaded. Otherwise great job!!!

Hi. Great job. After download i noticed that 1 file missing. Can you upload it please?

Not all the files are in the zip! Help

Brilliant idea for the box to avoid warping & to save filament if there is a problem during print. This is next on my list after the board.

Nice box! I was wondering if you can make a customizable out of the lid so that everyone can write the text of their choice.

I wonder if you could print this in one piece, or fewer pieces if done in PLA which doesn't warp as badly as ABS.

BTW, I've had problems with ABS cracking after the bed shut down once my print was finished because the part cools too rapidly. Solution was to leave the bed hot after the print finished, throw a towel over the part and the bed, wait a few minutes, then shut off the bed. The towel traps in the heat and the part cools more slowly. (Got the idea reading about how the plate glass mirrors for the Mount Wilson telescopes were cast. They were buried in horse crap to let them cool slowly.)

Perry, good looking box. I like the way you kept with the tile theme adding in the honeycomb design. I used to have terrible warping on long or tall objects but I came across a post somewhere that suggested using a ABS slurry to help adhere the prints to the platform. I didn't try it for a long time but it sure as hell works. Just take scraps from the color that you are printing with in abs and dissolve it in acetone. let it sit for a couple hours and mix. It doesn't need to be very thick, as long as the liquid takes on the color of the abs it should be fine. Apply it to your build platform using a q-tip. It doesn't have to fully coat, in fact it should be applied in a crisscross fashion otherwise your object will be nearly impossible to remove. I find it works best to apply as the build plate is heating up, around 70 will vaporize off the acetone and leave and nice thin layer of abs for your object to adhere to. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the compliment and the comment Mike!
I read that article you are talking about and it was one of my options at one point. Sticking to my build platform is not my problem, it is the warping of the piece itself. Very large builds will warp so badly that they actually tear themselves apart even when they do not release from the hbp. (they are cooling) I wish i could post pictures in these comments i would show you what i am talking about. I have worked out the adhesion to the table quite well, in fact so well that i have had parts actually lift the Kapton tape off of the hbp when they warp. You can't get it to stick any better than that. I also had to make a special tool for removing my prints because they stick so well. I have destroyed my Kapton tape (and parts) just trying to remove them, even after allowing the hbp to cool to room temp. This is a problem i want! :)
I also have enclosed my Replicator on all sides with clear acrylic panels that are held in place with refrigerator door magnets so there are no breezes inside the machine. The only thing i can think of to fix the warping is to actually heat the entire build environment like an oven, up to between 120c & 140c maybe more, then a controlled cooling cycle. but at that point, our $2,000 machines are getting up to the $10,000 mark. :)
When i was trying to print this box in a single piece it would split itself about every 3/8" at a little over 3" tall i stopped the print and went back to the drawing board. Redesigned it in 1/4" sections and had very little problems after that. They stuck to the hbp just fine but after removing, they are still warped slightly, but after assembly/clamping and acetone bonding they are pretty straight. The lid will be slightly convex but i have found that it helps with a tighter fit and causes no problems.